A Study on the Handle of the Silk Fabric Degummed with Enzyme - Comparison with the Handle of the Silk Fabric Degummed with Soap-soda -

효소정련 견직물의 태에 관한 연구 - 비누-소다정련견직물태와의 비교 -

This study was carried out to compare the handle of silk fabrics degummed with Alkalase, Protease produced by bacteria, with of silkfabrics degummed with the soap-soda. 1. In twill habutae, the stiffiness of silk fabric degummed with Alkalase was lower than that of silkfabirc degummed with soap-soda. The soft feeling value which is meaning the total Mandle value of medium fabirc for lady, as well as the Smothness, were more improved in enzymatic degumming than in the soap-soda degumming. 2. In case of Crep De Chine representing thin fabric for lady, the stiffness and Anti-Drape stiffness of the fabric degummed with Alkalase were lower than those of fabric degummed with the soap-soda, but the fullness and the Flexibilit with smooth feeling which is meaning the Total Handle value were higher.

견직물에 효소에 의한 정련처리를 비누-소다정련과 함께 실시한 후 이들 정련견포에 대하여 KES-F System을 적용하여 역학적 특성 즉 인장, 굽힘, 전단, 압축 및 표면특성을 측정하고 태값을 산출하여 효소정련과 비누-소다정련견포의 태값을 비교한 결과 1. 능하부다이 견직물의 경우 효소정련을 하면 포의 Stiffness가 비누-소다정련을 한 것에 비하여 감소되었고 Smoothness와 Soft feeling은 증가하였다. 2. 크\ulcorner데신 견직물의 경우 효소정련을 하면 비누-소다 정련에 비하여 Stiffness와 Anti-Drape Stiffness는 감소되었으며 Fullness와 종합 태값인 Flexibility with soft feeling은 향상되었다.