• Journal of East-Asian Urban History
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.121-138
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• 2021

The Dutch arrived in the islands that now compose Indonesia in the 17^th century, settling first in Banten (1600) and Ambon (1605) before establishing Batavia (1619) and taking over Malacca (1641) from the Portuguese. Referring to this network of strategic bases throughout the Nusantara region, this paper uses the element of urban cultural heritage to examine these four major trade hubs experienced very different destinies as a result of Dutch decisions. It also explores how shifts in political power after Indonesia's independence influenced Jakarta's dominance in modern-day Indonesia. The paper suggests that Dutch opportunism and strategic visions underpinned the decision to make Jakarta the center of colonial power in the 17^th century century. It also concludes that Jakarta's continued importance in political control and policies explains why it retained its position after Indonesia's independence, and these have been supported by recent policy measures. Finally, this paper concludes that, despite its Dutch origins, urban cultural heritage has been embraced by Indonesians.

• 복식
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• 제52권8호
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• pp.123-135
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• 2002

The purposes of this study were to observe the influences of Salon culture on fashion, and to understand of 17th-l8th century's costume from a different point of view. The literatures about Salons and costume in 17th-l8th century were considered for this study Salon culture had influenced on women's and men's fashion from 17th 18th century as results. The influences of salon culture on fashion were as follows; At first, it caused radical feminism for women's dress. Women for this period chose their dress to maximize their breast and tight their waist radically to express their beauty. Women were realized as sexual being for the period, then, this caused feminism. The second influence was the Andorgynous of men's dress. Men maximized beautiful decoration, body line on their dress and showed feminine dress style. which caused Andorgynous of men's dress as men and women mutually created new beauty effect. Salon had influences on the birth of new feminine culture and fashion, supplying individual self-control and freedom to women not as aesthetic objects.

• 복식
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• 제51권8호
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• pp.25-41
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• 2001

This Paper reveals the costume culture of early 17th century from the study of private letters found in the tomb of Mrs. JinJoo Ha(\ulcorner - after 1652) excavated in 1989. The tomb was located at KooJi-myon, DalSung-kun, Kyung-Poong Province. Joo Kwak(1569-1617), Mrs. Ha s husband, didn t have a title from the government, but he was a clan in HyunPoong area who had enough land and servants. However, he didn't live togther with mrs. Ha, his second wife, he had to travel between SoRye and NonKong where his wife resided. The 40 or so private letters that contains valuable information that can help us to understand and reconstruct the costume culture of early 17th century in HyunPoong area. We believe that these materials contain somewhat general information that reveals costume of KyungSangDo area even though the materials are from a specific family. By accumulating information from real material like these letters, we also believe that it will give us a better understanding on the costume culture in 17th century, Choson dynasty. Furthermore, it will certainly help us to reconstruct a more realistic lifestyle of the time.

• 복식
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• 제58권5호
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• pp.87-101
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to identity the representative flower patterns in the Joseon Dynasty and investigate their chronological transitions. In the early Joseon Dynasty (i.e. 16th century), lotus patterns were very popular. Often lotus patterns were twisted around by ivy-leaves or decorated with treasures pattern in the margin. In the mid Joseon Dynasty (i.e. from 17th to mid 18th century), however, lotus patterns evolved from the typical lotus and ivy pattern and diversified into four types. In the 19th century, lotus pattern almost disappeared from the textiles of everyday dresses and were only found in the textiles of formal dresses or in special cases as in the cover pages of Buddhist scriptures. Poeny patterns was rarely used in textiles of 16th century, presumably because of the huge popularity of the lotus pattern. However, suddenly in the 17th century, Poeny patterns appeared quite frequently. There were 3 types of Poeny patterns. Poeny patterns became more popular over the years and it finally became a primary motive in textiles patterns for 100 years starting in the late 19th century. There were two types of Poeny patterns : one was realistic and true to life even in sizes, the other was more symbolic. Textile patterns combining four kinds of flowers started to appear from the late Koryo Dynasty but Flower patterns representing four seasons with distinct shapes appeared only in the 17th century. They could be categorized into three types. In the late 18th century, Flower patterns representing four seasons no longer appears in textile patterns, presumably due to a new preference for lucky omen over natural motives.

• 복식
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• 제54권5호
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• pp.109-123
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to examine features of parts of Jikryung and relations among the features. Results of the study can be described as follows. 1. The short front and long rear of Jikryung was changed into the long front and long rear of the dress in the late 16th century. Kalgit of quasi-square style as double collar was changed into that of common collar in the late 16th century and then into common semi-circle collar in the early 17th century, when double Sup was also changed Into single Sup. Narrow sleeves of Jikryung were replaced by bean chaff-shaped in the late 16th century and then by wide ones in the early period of the next century. The shape of the side hem of Jikryung was changed from rectangle into trapezoid in the early 17th century Triangle-shaped Moo was changed into trapezoid-shaped one in the late 16th century and then again into triangle in the late 17th century 2. Changes in shapes of the parts of Jikryung were made with them correlated. The collar of Jikryung saw change in its form from double to common as its width was reduced. Double Sup was changed into single one and the narrow, short coat string into the long one as Jikryung became a dress needing less adjustment. The sleeves widened as the length of whajang increased. The side hem of Jikryung saw change in its shape from rectangular to trapezoidal one as its position was changed. Trapezoidal Moo was replaced by triangular one as the sleeve of Jikryung was changed in shape. 3. Changes in shapes of the parts of Jikryung influenced the aesthetic beauty of the dress itself In its first period, Jikryung was simple with long, slim silhouettes. In its second period, the dress was rich with increased volume. Finally in its third period, the dress was characterized by the harmony of simpleness and richness.

• 복식
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• 제63권4호
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• pp.56-69
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• 2013

This study studies the fabrics from excavated 17th century tombs of Mrs. Min from Yeoheung family(1586~1656), Yeo-on Kim(1596~1665) and Won-rip Choi(1618~1690) and attempts to clarify the relationship between the fashion trend in fabrics of those times and the background behind it by viewing and examining the proportion of twill fabrics to the total silk fabrics and the characteristics of its weave and patterns. Looking into fabrics from the above tombs, twill fabrics accounted for 10.4%(13 pieces) 19.3%(16 pieces) and 9.2%(9 pieces) of total silk fabrics in each of the respective tombs. This forms a remarkable contrast with the fact that there was only one piece of twill silk fabrics(0.5%) and not any from the 16th century tombs of Mrs. Yoon from Papyeong family (0.5%) and Soo-ryoon Sim(0%). In particular, the percentage of hwamun-neung(patterned twill fabrics) in each of the tombs is 8.0%(10 pieces), 13.3%(11 pieces), 9.2%(9 pieces), which is much higher than that of non-patterned one. This is common to the twill fabrics from above three 17th century tombs. Patterns of hwamun-neung(patterned twill), simplified small flower patterns or geometrical figures, from the three excavated tombs are mostly arranged sporadically with blank space. It is supposed that these figurative characteristics reflected the aesthetic sense of the gentry at that time which valued simplicity and moderation for their Confucian standard. This phenomenon of increased use and production of twill fabrics in the 17th century resulted from different factors such as wars like Japanese Invasion of Korea(1592~1598), economic difficulty, government regulations against the production of high-class fabrics, development of weaving skill and its fixation, changes of fabric production environments, and changes of aesthetic sense preferring naive and moderate things to showy ones. As for the weaving characteristics of twill fabrics from the three 17th century tombs 3 leaf warp-faced twill was often used for the ground texture and 4 leaf warp-faced one was occasionally used. For pattern texture 6 leaf weft-faced twill was frequently used, 4 leaf weft-faced twill and 3 leaf weft-faced twill were used at times, and floating one was occasionally used as well.

• 한국식품조리과학회지
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• 제23권5호
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• pp.731-748
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• 2007

In this study, we investigated e kinds and names of side dishes along with their recipes and ingredients occuring in Korean cookbooks published before the 17th century. The side dishes were classified 79 kinds of Guk, 23 kinds of Jjim and Seon, 15 kinds of Gui, 3 kinds of Jeon, 7 kinds of Nureumi, 3 kinds of Bokkeum, 30 kinds of Chae, 11 kinds of Hoe, 7 kinds of Jwaban, 6 kinds of Mareunchan, 12 kinds of Pyeonyuk and 5 kinds of Jeonyak, Jokpyeon and Sundae. The earliest records were found on Guk, Jjim, Jwaban, Po and Pyeonyuk Gui, Namul and Hoe were recorded after the 1500's and Nureumi, Jeon, Jeonyak, Jokpyeon and Sundae were developed relatively late in the late 17th century. As to the kinds of side dishes, Guk was the most common. Guks cooked before the 17th century used different recipes and more types of ingredients than today, including some that are not used today. For Jjim, various seasonings were added to main ingredients such as poultry, meat, seafood and vegetable. Most of the records found for Jjim used chicken as the main ingredient. Gui was recorded as Jeok or Gui and there weren't many ingredients for Gui before the 17th century. Gui was usually seasoned with salt or soy bean sauce and broiled after applying oil. Vegetables were broiled after a applying flour-based sauce. The Jeon cooked at that time was different from the one that is cooked today in that cow organs or sparrows were soaked in oily soy bean sauce before being stewed. Nureumi, which was popular in the 17th century, but rarely made today, was a recipe consisting of adding a flour or starch-based sauce to stewed or broiled main ingredients. Chae was a side dish prepared with edible plants, tree sprouts or leaves. Chaes like Donga and Doraji were colored with Mandrami or Muroo. Hoe was a boiled Hoe and served after boiling seafood. Jwaban was cooked by applying oil to and then broiling sparrows, dudeok, and mushrooms that had been seasoned and dried. For dried Chans, beef or fish was thin-sliced, seasoned and dried or sea tangle was broiled with pine nuts juice. There are some recipes from the 17th century whose names are gone or the recipes or ingredients have changed. Thus we must to try to rebuild three recipes and develop recipes using our own foods of today.

• 동양고전연구
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• 제37호
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• pp.279-306
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• 2009

본고의 목적은 한글 간찰을 대상으로 상투적인 표현을 고찰하는 데 있다. 한글 간찰의 상투적인 표현은 한글 간찰의 격식(格式)의 완성과 더불어 16세기에서 17세기에 이르는 과정에서 그 기틀이 마련되었다. 한글 간찰의 상투적 표현은 서두(書頭) 부분과 결말(結末) 부분에서 중점적으로 쓰였다. 서두에서는 호칭(呼稱)과 안부인사(安否人事)에서, 결말(結末)에서는 결말인사(結末人事)와 결귀(結句)에서 많이 쓰인 것을 알 수 있었다. 호칭 상투적 표현은 16세기의 <순천김씨언간>이나 17세기의 <현풍곽씨언간>에서는 서두의 자리에 고유어 중심의 상투적인 표현이 쓰였으며, 19세기의 <징보언간독>에서는 서두의 자리에 한자어 중심의 상투적 표현이 쓰였다는 점이 달랐다. 안부 인사의 상투적 표현에서는 답상(答狀)의 경우 '유무 보고' 같은 상투적 표현이 덧들어간다는 점에서 기상(寄狀)의 표현과 달랐다. 16세기의 <순언>에서 상투적 표현으로 점차 자리 잡아 가는 과정을 포착할 수 있었고, 17세기의 <현언>에서는 고유어 중심의 상투적인 표현이 하나의 정형(定型)을 이루게 된 것을 알 수 있었다. 다만 19세기의 <징언>에서는 <현언>의 고유어 중심의 상투적 표현이 오히려 한자어 중심의 상투적 표현으로 대체된다는 점이 특이하였다. 결말 인사와 결구 표현도 안부 인사 표현과 같은 양상을 보이고 있음을 알 수 있었다. <순언>보다 <현언>의 결말 인사와 결구 표현이 훨씬 단순화되어 반복적으로 쓰임으로써 상투성을 확보하는 것을 파악할 수 있었으며 아울러 <징언>에서는 오히려 한자어 중심의 번역체로 바뀌고 있음을 알 수 있었다.

• 복식
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• 제53권3호
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• pp.73-87
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• 2003

The custom and shroud for funeral rites of the early 17th Century based on the excavated costume from the grave of Mrs. Jung (1565 - 1614) are studied in this paper. The grave was located in the Pohang, Kyungbuk Province and was excavated in, April 1999. The remains consist of one set of epitaphs, 33 pieces of costume, 7 pieces of cloths, and 14 pieces of funeral accessaries. From these remains, this study newly reveals : 1) a specific funeral custom for the upper class from the fact that her husband, Ja-Hun Ki, was in the position of Prime Minister for the Chosun government when she died, 2) a fact that women also wore a formal dress with round-shaped collar (Dalryoung) and a concubine could use rectangular tablets ((Hyungbae) with peacock pattern according to her husband's rank, 3) a whole set of shroud used for women in the early 17th Century, and 4) specific construction methods for individual shroud.

• Current Research on Agriculture and Life Sciences
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• 제5권
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• pp.193-204
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• 1987

The main purpose of this study is to examine agricultural technologies through plowing and hoeing. One of the purposes on which this study is to analysis process of development and divergence of plough and hoe. The following facts are significant findings ; 1. In early Yi - dynasty, tilling implements used by ard plough and mould board plough did use in three south province, most region mainly used ard plough. Therefore, farming in early Yi - dynasty is extensive. 2. The mould board plough diffused in many fann house, spring farming and autumnfarming formed complet system in early 17th Century. But works of hoeing was continuing to save labor by long hand hoe. 3. Finally in 17th century, Small - scale independent farming ceaselessly tried to make his basis with transtortation intensive farming method. But Small - scale independent farming had not stafely base because extensive farming method continued in this peorid.