• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.74-85
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• 1997

폴 푸아레 (1879-1944)가 패션 역사상 혁명적이라고 할 수 있는 여성의 코르셋을 제거시켰다는 것은 익히 알려진 사실이다. 그리고 그러한 결과로 인해 발생된 새로운 직선형의 실루엣에 화려한 색채와 장식을 하여 이전 시대와는 전혀 다른 현대패션의 근원이 되었다. 본 연구는 푸아레의 새로운 직선 실루엣과 화려한 색채와 경이적 장식의 근원이 다름아닌 동양이라는데 중점을 두었다. 이미 국내의 몇편의 논문에서 이러한 논의가 지적되어 왔으나 다른 논제를 다루는 중에 언급이 되었고 당시의 작품이나 동시대의 자료를 분석한 것이 아닌 근래의 출판물에 의존한 연구가 대부분이었다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 그의 동양풍 디자인의 근원을 밝히는데 있어 가능한한 1 차적 자료의 접근을 시도하였다. 1912년 작품인 이브닝 드레스, 터번, 숄, 구두 각 1점과 그의 작품 의도와 생애의 추구를 말해주는 자서전(1930년 불어본 및 1931년 영어본)과 보그(Vogue)지의 기사(1920년 2월호, 9월호) 등을 통하여 그의 동양에 대한 관심을 살펴보았다. 그 결과 푸아레의 동양 영향의 근원은 19세기 말 유럽에서 절정을 이룬 'Sino-Japonism'(중국-일본주의)의 심취, 러시아 발레단의 의상과 색채, 천일야화의 영향에 의한 중동(페르시아)에 대한 열망, 그리고 인도 토민병의 복식에서 비롯된 터번에의 매료 등이었음을 알 수 있었다. 이러한 근원에서 탄생된 디자인으로는 직선형의 튜닉, 기모노 소매(처음엔 푸아레 자신도 중국의 것으로 혼동을 하기도 했지만), 하렘팬츠, 비대칭적인 카프탄식의 코트, 원색의 사용, 극동지역의 직물과 문양, 술장식, 터번 등으로 나타내었다. 따라서 폴 푸아레의 동양적인 관심은 단지 개인적 '취향 혹은 취미(taste)'가 아니라 한 시대양식으로 자리잡은 '동양주의(Orientalism)'라 할 수 있으며 이러한 푸아레의 동양주의는 당시의 패션에 있어 신체의 선을 부정하여 코르셋을 제거 시키게한 그의 모더니즘의 근거가 된다. 본연구의 제한점으로 1차적 자료를 수집하는데에 있어 보다 폭넓지 못했던 점을 밝혀둔다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.16 no.3 s.43
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• pp.209-221
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• 1992

A standpoint art's style, present-day Western dress was establishing a systematic, theoritical value in sphere of fine art's meaning & it's expression on the modern fashion. For this reason, I selected Impressionism (a broad senes: be included Impressionism, Neo-Impressionism, Post-Impressionism) that was designated 'the revolution of color'. In the previous paper, 1 already discussed about the modern fashion under the influence of the color of Impressionism, from this study, Neo-Impressionism's techniques & it's influence on the modern fashion was investigated. The Impressionists had purposely used uneven brushwork & a vivid palette to transmit the intensity & immediacy of nature, whereas the Neo-Impressionists utilized methodically applied dots, a technique commonly described as Pointillism, to achieve their rationalist goal of eliminating the fugitive & the casual in order to seize a more fundamental reality. Of all them, Seurat had already become interested in the posible analogies between science, music & psychology on the on hand & art on the other, and scientist's books & articles offered a wealth of theoretical support. 1'articulary, it was corroborated that effects of sadness, calm, or happiness could be achieved through manipulation of color & design. The conclusions are as follow: 1. Through the modern fashion, a space between pattern & pattern was reflected unstable balances & harmonies, that, Neo-Impressionist emphasized the distinction between outdoor & subject, between elaborately clothed & nude figures, corresponded to modern fashion's pattern. 2. The modern fashion was presented a small border or band within the pattern itself which colors complemented those of the adjacent pictorial surface and mediated between the painted image & its enclosure.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.35 no.2
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• pp.128-136
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• 2023

Recently, the automobile industry is developing as the demand for automo- biles increases due to industrial development and population growth. In addition, many studies are being conducted to reduce heat loss inside the automobiles in order to save energy inside the automobiles due to environmental regulations. In this study, alumina, nanosilicon, and aerogel, which are adiabatic materials, were filled in PET to manufacture yarn, identify physical and mechanical properties, and weave into fabric to confirm adiabatic performance. As the content of the adiabatic material increased, the tensile strength of the fibers filled with alumina and nanosilicon decreased greatly, and the adiabatic property slightly increased. The tensile strength of fibers filled with the aerogel decreased slightly, but the adiabatic properties were greatly increased. Therefore, it is considered to be due to the large volume fraction in the PET yarn due to the low density of the aerogel.

• Journal of Korean Home Economics Education Association
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.79-94
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• 2013

In this study, the teaching-learning materials and the plan using persimmon juice dyeing, which is one of the traditional natural dyeing methods of Korea, were developed for the purpose of inspiring further awareness of our traditional clothing life-culture. A questionnaire was designed to make a survey on the educational effect, and t-test and Kruscal-Wallis test were conducted to test the significant differences between pre- and post-lessons. A correlation analysis between culture awareness and its education awareness was also done. These prototypes were applied to high school Technology Home Economics classes under the theme, 'Making living goods with persimmon juice dyed fabrics'. Examining the changes in students' awareness of traditional images, and changes in their interest and attitude towards learning in those classes led to the following results. First, as a result of applying LT cooperative learning in order for an understanding of the formation of clothing life-culture and the process of persimmon juice dyeing, many original handicrafts with modern sense were created. Second, a comparative analysis between pre- and post-lessons on the change in students' degree of awareness of traditional clothing life-culture and its education showed that students' awareness had risen after the class; the data was collected from three separate sample groups which had been clustered according to their initial degree of awareness, i.e. high, middle, and low, and the group that scored the lowest before the class showed the greatest improvement. Third, feedback surveys on 'Making living goods with persimmon juice dyed fabrics' classes returned with scores greater than 'moderate', thus revealing that the students' concern and interest towards traditional clothing life-culture hae been enhanced through the class experience. Their attitude had also become more positive. Fourth, since learners with more awareness of the traditional clothing life-culture also showed more awareness of the need for an education designed to promote the culture, a positive correlation between the two had been found. As explained above, the teaching-learning materials and the plan that had been developed for this study has caused a deeper understanding of the value and significance of the traditional natural dyeing and clothing life-culture, and has therefore brought about an educational effect that powers idea creation.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.52 no.2
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• pp.254-267
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• 2019

Clamp resist dyeing is a resist dyeing technique in which a fabric is sandwiched between two or more pieces of woodcarving and then a pattern is expressed by dyeing. Records from nine years of King Heungdeok's reign during the Unified Silla dynasty show that the use of the clamp resist dyeing technique was banned for different garments. This was only for garments of YOOKDUPUMNYEO (六頭品女) or OHDUPUMNYEO (五頭品女). Given this, it can be assumed that clamp resisted fabrics were widely used, and the technique had been established during the Unified Silla dynasty or before. However, only the term can be found in the records. Neither its definition nor how this technique was used is explained. Also, it is difficult to assume the types and features of clamp resist dyeing due to a lack of materials. A small number of relics from the Goryeo dynasty still remain, though. Craft techniques have developed through international exchanges and have changed according to respective nations' circumstances including politics, economics, society, and culture. Hence, this research analyzed documents and relics from China and Japan, two countries neighboring the Republic of Korea, and studied the different types and features of clamp resist dyeing techniques. Clamp resist dyeing techniques were divided into monochromatic or multichromatic according to the number of colors that represented patterns, rather than according to the respective nations' features. They were also classified into mono, bilateral symmetry, or vertical-bilateral symmetry according to the structure of the patterns. Through the study of examples of inherited or reproduced dyeing techniques in China and Japan, it was confirmed that different engraving techniques, including relief, openwork, intaglio fit for the feature of a pattern and the number of colors, were applied in order to vividly represent patterns on fabric. Using small flower pattern clamp resist dyed fine tabby in Amitabha of 1302, the only relic showing its patterns and colors in Korea, as the experiment subject, this research successfully reproduced a clamp resist dyeing technique through a successful experiment based on the basic materials from the dyeing technique case study. Due to the significance of the experiment on a clamp resist dyeing technique that stopped its transmission and shows the features of the technique, this study is expected to be a basic resource that can be used for future reproductions of multichromatic clamp resist dyeing techniques. Also, it is expected to be helpful in widening and recreating the world of Korean pattern dyeing with modern dyeing techniques.

• The Journal of Natural Sciences
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• v.7
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• pp.133-162
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• 1995

Paderborn's companies, Wameling and Cassau, produce the liturgical vestments, which have much traditional artistic merit. And Kevelaerer Fahnen + Paramenten GmbH, located in Kevelater which is a place of pilgrimage of the Virgin Mary, was known to Europe, Africa, America and the Scandinavia Peninsula as the "Hidden Company" of liturgical vesments maker up to now. Paderborn and Kevelaer were the place of the center of the religious world and the Catholic ceremony during a good few centries. The Catholic liturgical vestiments of these 3 companies use versatile design, color, shape and techniques. These have not only the symbolism of religion, but also can meet our's expectations of utilization of modern textile art, art clothing and wide-all division of design. These give the understanding of symbolic meanings and harmony according to liturgical vestments to the believers. And these have an influence on mental thinking and induction of religious belief to the non-believers as the recognition and concerns about the religious art. The liturgical vestments are clothes which churchmen put on at the all ceremonial function of a mass, a sacrament, performance and a parade according to rules of church. These show the represen-tation of "Holy God" in silence and distinguish between common people and churchmen. And these represent a status and dignity of churchmen and induce majesty and respect to churchmen. Common clothes of the beginning of the Greece and Rome was developed to Christian clothes with the tendency of religion. There were no special uniforms distinguished from commen people until the Christianity was recognized officially by the Roman Emperor Constantinus at A.D.313. The color of liturgical vestments was originally white and changed to special colors according to liturgical day and each time by the Pope Innocentius at 12th century. The color and symbolic meaning of the liturgical vestments of present day was originated by the Pope St. Pius(1566-1572). Wool and Linen was used as decorations and materials in the beginnings and the special materials like silk was used after 4th century and beautiful materials made of gold thread was used at 12th century. It is expected that there is no critical changes to the liturgical vestments of future. But the development of liturgical vestments will continues slowly by the command of conservative church and will change to simple and convenient formes according to the culture, the trend of the times and the fashion of clothes. The companies of liturgical vestments develop versatile design, embroidery technique and realization of creative design for distinction of the liturgical vestments of each company and artistic progress. The cooperation of companies, artists and church will make the bright future of these 3 companies. We expect that our country will be a famous producing center of the liturgical vestments through the research and development of companies, participation of artists in religeous arts and concerts of church.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.29-37
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• 2017

Due to the pursuit of individuality by modern consumers, the day has come when it is hard for design to be sustained solely by external beauty. Accordingly, products with the psychological value and brand stories are appearing, so that products that reinterpret traditional crafts are now being appreciated for their merits. Handmade goods defined as new luxury goods or products of high-quality craftsmanship are being used to enhance the consumer's individual image, and has created an unprecedented consumer stratum structure. Japan is one of the countries that actively applies traditional crafts to contemporary design and this study aims to investigate cases that are being reinterpreted in modern fashion in the theme of Boro, which is not as well known among Japanese traditional crafts. The purpose of this study is to offer basic data for designers by investigating the cases of the reinterpretation of traditional crafts. In addition, in reinterpreting traditional crafts into other fields, it is regarded as a meaningful way to contribute to a variety of other ideas. As the research method, first, the definition and kind of Boro were investigated utilizing the related literature information about the traditional fabric of Boro, which is the starting point and basis of the research. Second, Japanese aesthetic sense defined in the previous research was classified and the relationship of the anti-decorative aesthetic sense and Boro investigated. Third, after classifying the reinterpretation cases of Boro that have appeared in four major fashion collections and designer brands from 2011 to 2016 by the selected aesthetic sense, its characteristics were investigated. The search for examples of the reinterpretation of Boro uses the results of the keyword search of Boro and Boro Fashion via the internet search engine Google from April 2016 to December 2016. In addition, the search results were selected on the basis of whether the designer specified borrowing from Boro or whether Boro on the collection order was included or not. In addition to introducing an unknown fabric craft, this study also raises the methodological problems of the reinterpretation of traditional crafts. Products containing psychological value are expected to come into the spotlight in the upcoming consumer market. Therefore, as a follow-up study, it is suggested to research examples in which various crafts are being applied as products before one knows, how this creates new originality, and the limitations involved in this.

• Archives of design research
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.197-207
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• 2001

A designed object reveals its meaning and image through form, color and material. Among these three elements, material has more powerful influence with its tactile and visual characteristics. In Korea, traditionally materials itself were mainly used to design artifacts rather than various color or formal decoration. The purpose of this study is to investigate the Korean traditional materials, and to classify them by the characteristics of their texture. For this study, the pictures of Korean traditional artifacts were collected from the national museums and literature. Those are architectural and interior elements, furniture, cloths and textiles, arts and crafts. Total of 533 collected artifacts were classified into seven categories, metal, day, stone, paper, wood, straw, fabric things. : 59 metal things, 115 clay things, 62 stone things, 73 paper things, 80 wood things, 47 straw things, 97 fabric things. Each materials were classified into its forming methods and surface treatment focused on the he characteristics of their surface texture. Throughout this study, the uniqueness of forming method and surface treatment of each materials in Korea has been clarified. And furthermore the classification by this various traditional methods of materials will provide plentiful information and ideas to today's designers of the world.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.16 no.3 s.43
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• pp.197-207
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• 1992

Expressionism, is as diverse as the artists invo)ved, in a very broad sense two main tendencies may be noted. The first is that of the Action painters, concerned in different ways with the gesture of the brush and the texture of the paint. It included such major artists as Arshile Gorky, Jackson Pollock, Willem De Keening, and Franz Kline. The other group consisted of the Color Field painters, concerned with the statement of an abstract sign or tranquil image in terms of a large, unified color shape or area. Here must be included Mark Rothko, Barnett Newman, Ad Rdinhardt, as well as, to a degree, Adolph Gottlieb, Robert Motherwell, and Clyf(ord Still. In this paper, 1 selected two artists Arshile Gorky and Jackson Pollock independent charac-teristics and studied the influence of their Action painting on the fabrics of modern fashion. However, it should be noted it was never the intention of the critic Harold Rosenberg, in coining this term, to imply that Action painting was a kind of athletic exercise. Nor is it true that the furious and seemingly haphazard scattering of the paint involved a completely uncontrolled, intuitive act. There is no question that, in the paintings of Jackson Pollock, Arshile Gorky and many of the other Abstract Expressionists, the element of intuition or the accidental plays a large and deliberate part; this was indeed one of the principal contributions of Abstract Expressionism which had found its own inspiration in surrealism's 'psychic automaton'. However, nothing that an experienced and accomplished artist does can be completely accidental. Aside from their intrinsic quality, the spun-out skeins of poured pigments contributed other elements that changed the course of modern painting. There was the concept of the all-over painting, the painting seemingly without beginning or end, extending to the very limits of the canvas and implying an extension even beyond. The feeling of absorption or participation is heightened by the ambiguity of the picture space. The colors and lines, although never punctur-ing deep perspective holes in the surface, still create an illusion of continuous movement, a billowing, a surging back and forth, within a limited depth. To study the influence of Abstract Expressionism on the fabric of modern fashion, 1 selected and examined four fashion magazines: Collezioni published in France, Bazaar in Italy, Gap in Japan and Vogue in the U.S.a. froim January 1989 to June 1991. As a result of this review I found that some fabrics used in modern clothing are printed in a dripping, pouring and splashing style without any meaning or form. Slides included in the presentation show that modern fabrics which are printed in such a style were influenced by Abstract Expressionism. The slides also show that these abstract prints are well suited to modern fashion design.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.55-66
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• 2016

This study was aimed to characterize the color of cotton fabric dyed with three different natural resources such as persimmon, citrus, and brown algae and to propose new trend color themes for fashion color planning for newborn and toddler wear. A variety of color shades by dyeing cotton fabric with persimmon, citrus, and brown algae respectively was obtained and each color was also determined if it could be matched with one of Pantone TPX considering authorized color trends for 2016 Spring/Summer. Finally a group of new trend color theme for 2016S/S newborn and toddler wear were proposed for naturally dyed cotton fabric. As results, the three natural dyeing resources gave color gamut with hue ranging from Purple Blue to Green Yellow and with tones including pale, light grayish, soft, grayish, and dull by their single and compound dyeing. A total of 23 colors matched to Pantone TPX were considered for the fashion color planning by natural dyeing. The selected natural colors were grouped as three different color ways and thereafter the color ways were differentiated in terms of representative color sensibility by using subjective evaluation. Finally three characterized color themes were proposed as 'Serenity', 'Juicy', and 'Fancy', each of which has tried to express differentiated feeling of each natural resources for dyeing, to follow up to global color trends, and to contribute to newborn and toddler wear's own requirements and marketability. These results suggest that natural dyeing colors could be applied into fashion color planning in current fashion industries in order to produce more sensible and emotional design of fashion goods using natural dyeing.