• 복식
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• 제56권7호
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• pp.1-17
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• 2006

This study purposed to examine Korean people's white clothes custom historically and to explain the aesthetic consciousness latent in the custom. Korean people preferred white clothes, even up to foreigners called them White-clad folk. Not only as in old historical literatures, but also in Soo-suh, Shin-Dang-suh including Sam-Kuk-Ji in China, white clothes were a real symbol to Korean people, ranging chronically far back to the age of ancient tribal countries, Sam-Kuk Period through Koryo Dynasty and even to modern age near the end of Chosun Dynasty, wearing with pleasure regardless of age, sex or social position. Even King himself in Koryo Dynasty is said to have worn white clothes when he was out of official hours. During the Koryo and Chosun Dynasty, white clothes were sometimes prohibited for various reasons including conflicts with the theories of yin-yang and the five elements but such regulations were not effective. To Korean people, white clothes were ordinary people's everyday dress as well as noble people's plain suits, saints' uniforms with religious meanings, ceremonial costumes, funeral garments, etc. The various uses show that white clothes have been worn by many people. The unique custom that a People have worn white clothes consistently for such a long time may contain very deep symbolic meanings representing the people's sentiments and spirits. The present study understood that the meanings come from religious sacredness, magical wish for brightness, the pursuit of purity originating from the people's national traits, assimilation with nature and the will to attain whole ascetic personality. Aesthetic attitudes based on aesthetic values summed up as sacredness, brightness, purity, assimilation with nature, asceticism, etc. are the aesthetic consciousness pursued by Koreans through their white clothes. For Koreans, white color is the origin of their color sense coming from primitive religions such as worshipping the sun and the heaven. In this way, Korean people's preference for white clothes began with primitive religions, was mixed with various social, cultural and religious influences and finally was settled as their durable spirit, symbol and beauty.

• 한국패션뷰티학회지
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.78-86
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• 2007

One of the latest social trends is to reappear old things under the banner of the revival. It is easily found in the fashion industry because Fashion is not divided into the past, the present and the future thing but coexisting through all ages. The purpose of this study was to pursue the healthy and characteristic beauty of the modem people by understanding the beauty culture of the ancient. The Middle ages were mainly classified into Byzantine, Romanesque and Gothic by historical and cultural factors. In the Byzantine age, the clothing with rich silhouette was worn by the influence of the abstemious religion and it didn't express a specific proportion of human body. The people covered their hair with turbans and veils for the period. The Romanesque era was affected by the religious idealism and the Greek-Roman culture. The ideal proportion of human body could be 8 heads high and the clothes expressing natural silhouette of human body came out. Depending on the feel of the flowing texture, long-braided hair was typical in that time, and also wearing kinds of head dress as personal ornaments was characteristic in the age. In the period of Gothic, the long and weak human body was emphasized. The ideal proportion of human body could be figured with 8.5 heads high and it was expressed with the form of artificial and vertical silhouette such like tight-fitting upper garments, gathered skirts and long hats.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.145-152
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to find out the traditional decoration techniques in the Korean costume. Both quantitative and qualitative research methods were used to collect and investigated the traditional decoration techniques used in the related literatures and museum catalogues. The results were as follows. The broad and back stitching are fundamental stitching, which used to Nubi and Keki. Top stitching applied broadly to the Korean costume, for example, Jergori, Wonsam, Jeonbok, Beosun, Bojagj and so on. The expression techniques for top stitching were one, two or three stitches. When the top stitching was used as colorful stitches, they were more decorative. The Zatmulim was used for the decorative effect on the seam line because it was triangular shaped and became more effective by changing the rotor and size. Sunmulim was used on the narrow line such as the seam lines of Gergori and Chima. The bakchi decoration was imitating a bat shape, had a meaning of bringing the goodness and gave the tiny and elaborated image. It was used to the neckline of Geogori, seam line of Chima, Pungcha Bazi and so on. Sattgi was used to attaching the bottom of two stiff fabrics adopting for Beosun, Ayam and Norigae. When it used colorful strings, the more decorative effect was added. The knot for button used the fabric instead of buttons and applied to the Cheonlik, Gergori. The aesthetic values of the traditional decoration techniques in the costume were both natural beauty and practicality with creativity.

• 복식
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• 제53권5호
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• pp.79-95
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is firstly to survey the social and cultural background of 20th century and women´s status, and to identify what the ideal body is like and what the elements of outer garment and underwear are and the techniques to incarnate the ideal beauty. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of underwear are analyzed based on photographical materials. This paper concludes as follows. In 1960´s, ideal beauty was small bust, long legs, which showed extremely slim Mini-skirt look. Thinly or no padded brassiere were worn for small bust, and pants-style short panty girdles were popular as they used to wear pants frequently. Lycra replaced all the closures, bones, seams and gave freedom with light weight. In 1970´s, a natural human body without sex specific was in vogue. Therefore, the non-structural knits without a pad or lining or the shirts dress were widespread for a Natural look and the naturally molded brassiere or girdles were worn as the underwears. In 1980´s, the women with powerful muscle appear which emphasized liveliness and healthfulness. The body conscious represented by wide shoulder, plump breast, accented waist, small hips, and long legs has been embodied. Outer garments emphasized women power and healthy beauty with Power suit and Form-fitting style, and underwears made the breast plump with padded brassiere and emphasized waist and hips with waspie. In 1990´s, ideal beauty was slim body with big bust and the outer garments emphasized body line of women with Hourglass silhouette. Push-up bra which emphasizes the valley of breast and supports the breast upward and the control tights for slim waist, flat abdomen, small hips, and long and slim legs have been useful as underwears. Multi-functional micro-fiber has been ideal for sculpting women body.

• 복식
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• 제59권2호
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• pp.154-168
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• 2009

This study aims on providing a design technique that expresses aesthetical elements by arranging the analysis of sensual beauty into detailed elements of design from music video outfits by genre of pop music, by observing music videos of female vocalists chosen from each genre of pop music focusing on their fashion. The results of this study are the following. 1. In the genre rock, the sensual beauty of female were expressed with a boyish and neutral style using texture such as leather or denim, and such style had the effect of emphasizing their feminine side even more. 2. In the genre dance music, exposure is extensive compared to other genre using sexy or lingerie look, and I found an ambivalent style of feminism with clothes in the form of drapery using textures such as chiffon and silk, and femme fatale style with textures adhering to the body such as leggings, leotard, and bodysuit. 3. In the genre of rap and hip-hop, clothes from casual and costume-play style were found using training jersey, t-shirt, and denim pants, and emphasized the sensual beauty of women by showing a silhouette with short length and fitting style using shiny textures. 4. In the genre of R&B, there were diverse outfits that suits the characteristics of characters appearing in the stories, or the situation of the story since there are many dramatic representation in the form of story Especially in case of female characters, the feminine side was emphasized staging a feminine style by wearing dresses with the texture of chiffon and silk. Exposure was restrained compared to other genre.

• 복식
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• 제58권1호
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• pp.61-78
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• 2008

Comedy costumes worn on the comedians/gag men express the information of the performances such as character's era, place, social rank, present environment, age, sex, occupation, emotion, relationships between the characters, importance and mood in visual language. The comic is found when these informations are reversed, revealed, exaggerated or distorted. To analyse the TV comedy costumes, 5 subordinate concepts of the comic which are Body, Gender, Age, T.P.O.(Time, Place, Occasion) and Role could be identified, and the results from the analysis focused on (10 shows were selected from each of the first and second half of the years from 2003 to 2007) are as follows: Distorted and ugly body implies the resistance against the ideal body. Reversed or confused sex are usually expressed as men dressed in women, and these mean breaking the dichotomy between male and female, and coexistence of the masculinity and feminity, and satirizing the social custom restricting women by moral rules. It could be recognized that the way of men's dressing in women have been changing keeping pace with the times. The discord between age and costume was often expressed with children's wear and childish props. This implies the liberation from the age role. The comic expressed from the inadequate costume for T.P.O. usually appeared with the costumes 20-30years behind the times. When there were discordance with the acts and acts expected from the outfit(appearance) also made an ironical laugh. The comics acquired by vulgarization and exaggeration of the characteristics of role(figures/occupation) were from the imitation and deformation of the objects in stereotypes, and through this dissolving the custom was under way.

• 복식
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• 제58권1호
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• pp.17-32
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• 2008

This study focuses on the analysis of Baudelaire's aesthetic perspective which has established a theoretical basis on research of the critical reviews' salon exhibitions as written by Baudelaire. Charles Pierre Baudelaire(1821-1867) having lived during the latter part of Neo-classicism and the era of Romanticism and Impressionism, Baudelaire displayed opposition to customary realities such as social ideology or religious authority that suppressed human nature. Also he pioneered a new genre known as art criticism and wrote much that provided important insights on the essential elements of artistic work, modernity and trend, as well as art definition and art categories. The aesthetic perspective and creative spirit were formed by Baudelaire, during his age were also reconfirmed in the successive ages of modernism and postmodernism. As such, this study sheds light on how Baudelaire's aesthetic perspective was not only temporarily assertion but it is consistently applied to modern art and fashion area. What is more important that, Baudelaire admired new artificial beauty that is created by the human soul liberated from natural instincts or desires. Especially, informed by strangeness and distinctiveness, Baudelaire's view of fashion ran along the same vein as his view of art, and these views form the basis of that creative spirit which situated western fashion on a center of the world. In conclusion, the research on Baudelaire's aesthetic perspective will reaffirm a firm awareness of the creative spirit essential to globally-oriented creative artists and designers who work within the circumstance of the 21st century, a time when the paving of new aesthetic paths is necessary. The research also offers a clear understanding of the aesthetic values demanded by this age.

• 복식
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• 제63권2호
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• pp.14-28
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• 2013

This study attempts to systematically analyze a red carpet style. I have researched the Academy Awards called representative film awards which symbolizes international fame and the Grammy Awards which is the most prestigious award in the music industry by subdividing into formative elements such as silhouette, color, fabric, pattern, detail, accessory, fashion image, and so on from 2000 to 2012. Firstly, when it comes to silhouette, mermaid silhouette accounts for the highest proportion in the Academy Awards. Compared to this, fit silhouette is shown almost the same percentage as the mermaid silhouette in the Grammy Awards. Secondly, with regard to color, black color has not only the highest percentage but also examples of different unit forms such as various color, showy gradation and single colors. Various colors in the Grammy Awards have similar percentage in comparison with the Academy Awards. Thirdly, in terms of fabric, silky material is often used most, which looks like putting more weight on dresses for the formative elements of clothes. Fourthly, in pattern, patternless dresses are represented by high percentage at both the Academy Awards and Grammy Awards. Dresses with patterns have mild, stylistic elements and geometric designs. The Grammy Awards shows many different unique patterns, color and size, compared to the Academy Awards. Fifthly, in detail, frill and ruffle ornaments are shown most at the Academy Awards and Grammy Awards. Especially in the Grammy Awards, beads ornaments are used most. Sixthly, in accessory, there are many accessories of graceful, elegance styles in the Academy Awards. On the contrary to this, there are many accessories to effect on many performances of large, fancy, unique styles. Seventhly, elegance images of a goddess style among fashion images emerge as fashion of the Academy Awards. In spite of romantic styles in the Grammy Awards, many various images are the same rate as there, which means different appearance of experiment and sensational styles.

• 복식
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• 제53권3호
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• pp.137-154
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is firstly to survey the social and cultural background of 20th century and women's status, and to identify what the ideal body is like and what the elements of outer garment and underwear are and the techniques to incarnate the ideal beauty. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of underwear are analyzed based on photographical materials. This paper concludes as follows. In 1910's, ideal beauty has changed to H-style. In other words, the outer garment has confined the lower part of the body with plain H-type Hobble silhouette to express plump bust, somewhat slim waist, and small hips, As the underwears, cylindrical corsets which fasten from under the bust down to lap, brassiere which are helpful for plump bust, and artificial busts were worn. In 1920's, outer garment were Straight box silhouette style which were cut as tubular without dart, and the underwears were corselets which have been tubular from the bust to hip and the tubular chemi-knickers. The former corsets which had been hard-boned and been fastened with strings have been replaced by the hook closure due to the development of elastic joining method. In 1930's, women pursued perfect body showing the line of bust, waist, and hip. In order to express elegant beauty of female of Slim and long silhouette, Doter and underwear have been cut with bias and gore, and soft and flexible materials were flowed along the body. World war II in 1940's has made the women as social. Ideal beauty has changed to Short straight box silhouette which no more shows body line. Outer and underwears were simple and Practical style. In 1950's, ideal beauty was well-matured, elegant Women which were represented by round shoulder, conical breast, tiny waist and round hip. Outer garment showed Hourglass silhouette representing the body-tight suits with round shoulder pad and the wide flare skirts. As the underwears, conical brassiere by top circular stitch were preferred for plump and bulged bust and tight corsets for tiny waist and magnificent petticoats were worn.

• 복식
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• 제53권8호
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• pp.65-80
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to examine and fully understand the transformation of female's ideal beauty through time based on word analysis. Word selection was made from the very exemplary Women's magazines : Yuhwon, Jubu-Saengwhal, and Yuhsung-Dongah. Further, in order to research the understanding of female's ideal beauty, a random research was done on 445 women, ranging from the ages 20's through 60's. From the result, a frequency analysis was performed to further analyze the meaning of ideal beauty to each sector of the age groups for different time periods : the 1980's and the 1990's. To the 20's, beauty awareness was defined by the word ‘intelligence’, however, the 1980's endorsed confidence with composure and calmness where as the 1990's preferred beauty to be defined by ‘refinement and goal oriented’. The 30's selected ‘individuality’ marked with confidence in character, but there was a shift from ‘mature intelligence’ in the 1980's to ‘professionalism’ in the 1990's. The 40'E chose mediocrity and commonness, however, likewise, a sense of ‘earnestness’ for life and family was looked upon as beautiful. For the 50's, comfort with a reserved tenure was frequently noted and for the 60's, women chose ‘health and independence’ as describing ideal beauty. The results from the research are justifiable because the articles are in a neutral perspective and are from the representative women's magazines. This research proved that the younger the age group, the more exterior beauty was considered, as opposed to the older generation who found inner beauty to be of most importance.