• Title/Summary/Keyword: 한국 복식미

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Design Development of the Taekwondo Uniform ; Historical Research (태권도 수련복의 역사적 고찰을 통한 디자인 개발)

  • Kim, Jung-Hee;Cho, Hyo-Sook;Jeon, Hyun-Sil;Lee, Hyun-Jin
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.59 no.6
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    • pp.82-93
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    • 2009
  • This study is considered about the Taekwondo(跆拳道) uniform classified by period and analyzed the current Taekwondo uniform. And founded on this contents, new designs of uniform, that a functional side are considered and can symb이ize the identity of Taekwondo, are presented through this study. Ancient times to the present time, the Taekwondo uniform classified into three types according to 'Period of putting on our nation's costume'(three kingdoms${\sim}$Joseon(朝鮮) times), 'Period of confusion on uniform'(Japan's colonial rule of Korea${\sim}$-the early 1970s), 'Period of the settlement on official uniform'(the late 1970s-the present time). And besides, the shape of our nation's costume in ancient times is succeeded until Joseon times and this basic style becomes the outset on the current Taekwondo uniform. The designed uniforms are connoted the notion of the aesthetic appreciation in Korean traditional costume, that is, a symbolic, dignified, moderate appreciation with the consideration of a functional side for Taekwondo. And the contents on the presented designs are classified into 'shape, pattern, color'. First, these designs that are adapted the shape of Baji(바지) Jeogori(저고리)-belt, which have symbolized our nation's costume, and the shape of Bacja(배자) had used in Joseon times, are connoted a 'traditional appreciation with functional side'. Second, these designs, which are adapted the patterns of the active image(a bugbear, flying horse, tiger for embroidered patches, Taegeuk(太極)) in a modern style, express a 'symbolic, dignified appreciation'. Third, these designs are well-matched a black and white color with multicolored stripes(saekddong, 색동), and its ones are connoted a 'moderate and symbolic appreciation'.

회원 신윤복 풍용도에 표현된 복식미의 연구

  • 김인경
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.25
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    • pp.5-20
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    • 1995
  • The fashion of late Yi dynasty had explored a possibility of new fashional beauty from its own experiences throughout the history of Korean fashion excluding any interference of foreign fashions, and brought out some characteristics ; first, the aesthetical value focused on the more human fashion resulted in the exposure of waist. This aesthetical change in the fashion of late Yi dynasty produced out results as follows ; the length and width of jacket became short and narrow maintaining the basic form, while the width of skirt became increased to be contrasted exceptionally with the upper coat. This mode of fashion reveals the transitional movement from the emphasis on balance to that on unbalance in the late period of Yi dynasty. But regarding the fact that the proportional change by the ways of putting on skirt became to be similar to the golden ratio, we can see many examples throughout the folk paintings by Shin Yun bok, we find that the fashional beauty of that age pursued ideal harmony and unity all the time being in spite of its tendency toward non-refinement. Second, we see another peculiarity in the mode of woman's fashion from the paintings by Shin Yun-bok who always depicted the hu-man nature frankly. For example, the jacket became shorter to emphasize lady's slim waist, and underwears began to be exposed after the upper part of skirt had been to expose lady's waist while the bottom line pulled up highter than before. Thus, as the function of robe had changed from a mere means of covering into an expression of beauty, the fashion of late Yi dynasty began to express a perfectly new beauty possessing an erotic mood and sensu-ality of a woman, which was its inner aesthetic need. Third, this emergence of new fashional beauty made the mental value of man and the aesthetic views of that time quite different from the previous ones, and finally there came various expressions of a new beauty. There-fore, the woman's fashion of late Yi dynasty is noted for the exposure and emphasis on the body line of a woman after the aesthetic view-point had changed of time toward pragmatism and humanism, while upholding the traditions of Korean clothes and pride for the nation. And our ancestors realized very Korean fashional beauty by pursuing the expressional ways of gentle, indirect emphasis upon the feminine and natural beauty to exclude and ar-tificial, direct and straightforward exposures and images.

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A Study on the Dancing & Music Various Kinds of Entertainer's Constumes of Ancient China(2-3) -Focusing on the various kinds of entertainter's costumes of han dynasty- (중국의 무악.백희연예인 복식에 관한 연구(2-3) - 한대의 백희 연예인 복식을 중심으로 -)

  • 임명미
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.49
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    • pp.5-24
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    • 1999
  • The results from the consideration of this are as follows. 1. Various kindes of entertainments were beganed by common peoples of old china. 2. From the Han dynasty Various kindes of entertainments are devided into the classic dance and music which was performed courtesy ceremonial meetings of ancient china. 3. Traditional drama dance and musics performed art by artist of old china was called collectively "Various kindes of Entertainments(百戱)" 4. After unification of Han dynasty many commercial men and artist come from western to China therefore western music dance and drama acrobatic magic flowered into the old china so "Various kindes of Entertainments(百戱)" items was abundant. "Various kindes of Entertainments(百戱)" items as follows: 1) dramas 2) horsemanships. 3) acrobatics 4) magics 5) masked dramas. 5. "Various kinds of Entertainments" artist's costumes as follows: 1)For mens: *Old-china's "Various kindes of Entertainments" artist's costumes of Han-dynasty was Chin hyun-Kwan(진현관) right handed neck collor long coat narrow trousers belt just simmillar is official's dress of Han dynasty. *Various kindes of Entertainments(百戱)" artist's costumes of Westerner's dress is high top hats, lace trimminged round-necklong coat trimminged belt narrow trousers. *Another weaterner's dress is long striped patterned knee-lengh coat narrow trousers *opened top body and wearing narrow pantaloon short skirt short trousers. 2) For females: (1) Hair style is high top hair style twin high top hair style birds hair decorated high top hair style ribbon dressed high top hair style (2) Dress is knee-lengh one-piece west0-lengh jaket and knee-lengh skirt one-piece and short trousers scarf hart sleeved jaket narrow pantallons. "Various kindes of Entertainments(百戱)" artist's costumes influenced from royal families costumes to common peoples costumes without concern of that one's social positionon peoples costumes without concern of that one's social position.

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A Study on Chima and Jeogori for Women appeared in Genre Pciture of Late Chosun Dynasty (조선후기 풍속화에 나타난 치마.저고리에 관한 연구)

  • 심화진
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.50 no.2
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    • pp.125-140
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    • 2000
  • The major findings of basic women wear in genre painting were ; 1. Due to the influence of Shill-Hak (practical science) philosophy, Jeogori became shorter and a tighter fit came to be the norm. 2,. The shortening of the Jeogori influenced a longer Chima with a wider span providing comfort in movement or at work. The end of the skirt was often held by one hand to the waist adding to comfort. This was called the Go-dul-chima(Lifted Chima). 3. Because the Geo-dul-chima exposed a portion of one underwear at the bottom of the dress this influenced the "irnamentation' of underpants and underskits. 4. Collars or lapels came in the form of Dang-ko, Kal, Mok-pan and Ban-Mokpan. Among there Dang-ko style collars were the most common which allows us to conclude that this was the most popular. 5. The most commonly used colors for Jeogori were white (39.8%) and jade(18.3%) . The most commonly used colors for CHima were deep blue(34.4%) and jade(20.4%) . The lower Chima used the darkercolors to give stability to the overall costume. 6. Clothing had the function of differentiating the classes. Only the Yang-ban were allowed to wear the Samhijang Jeogori and the Gob-Chima(double layered Chima) and the knotting of the Chima to the left. But the painting show that these rules were not adhered to in the strictest manner. With the bases of these types of chima and Jeogori can look at the characteristical beauty of the ordinary women during the late Cho-sun dynasty. First is the beauty which comes from mystery of those parts of body which can not be seen. A sense of subtle and sensual beauty as well as that coming from the enlargement of reduction of the upper body, narrow waist and abundant lower body parts creating an ideal silhouette of sexual charm. An expression of emotion through clothing by those who lived during those times.

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A Study on the Influence of Courtesy of Avoidance of the Opposite Sex on Costume -Focused on Costumes of Man and Woman in the Late Chosun Dynasty- (남녀유별 예(禮)의식 [내외법(內外法)] 이 복식생활에 미친 영향 -조선후기 남녀 복식생활을 중심으로-)

  • Lee, Kyung-Mee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.57 no.1 s.110
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    • pp.105-117
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    • 2007
  • The purpose of this study is to help the understanding the characteristics in the costumes of men and women throughout the overall acceptance process of 'Naewaebub' in the late 'Chosun Dynasty' in which the notion of 'Naewae' is more prosperous than any other period in Korean history. Originally the distinction between man and woman was not intended to display the high and the low but to show the mutual respect according to each duty. As time goes on, that ideal became gradually changed to heighten the man and lower the women especially in 'Han' period of China. There was the ideal of distinction in the ancient times in Korea. Until 'Koryo Dinasty' the community has the system of blood-tied that put together maternal and paternal. 'Karye' was introduced in the late 'Koryo Dynasty' and accepted to the stereotype of morale in the 'Chosun Dynasty' and there seemed to be 'Samgang' and 'Oryun' at once. Many restrictions was imposed to behavior in women like rules of prohibition in attending the temple and concealment of woman's face and was recognized to rule of distinction between man and woman. Confucian life custom has been settled to Korean society throughout the late 16th century and 17th century and there were some appearances in the housing construction which divide the residences of man and woman. The characteristics in the costume from the avoidance of opposite sexes are clear in the structure of clothes changed from similar style to different style. The examples of those characteristics are as fellows. The costume in man was developed to advanced 'Pyoun-bokkwan' and 'Pyounbokpo' as social action of man prospered. Meanwhile the trousers which had been the same in the man and woman were separated to different trousers between man and woman. The costume life style of woman was changed to using the a hair whirl, hiding the face in the street and overlapping the innerwear under the skirt which was extension of woman's closed life style in late 'Chosun Dynasty'.

A Study on Japanese Clothing as Japonism Expressed in the Impressionistic Painting Works of the 19th Century (19세기 인상주의 회화 작품 속에 표현된 쟈포니즘으로서의 일본 복식에 관한 연구)

  • 김혜정
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.53 no.6
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    • pp.11-23
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    • 2003
  • Japonese woodblock printing has been accepted with a great curiosity at first, and it has been called as 'Japonisme' or 'Japonaiserie' in which the school of Impressionism accepted the Japanese type of art and developed it in Europe. The term of Japonisme is the concept that does not refer to one style but to the taste for Japanese painting, craft, fashion and the like in Europe proved as the historical phenomenon through Japanese works. That is, it means every Japanese disposition including all artistic techniques and contents relating to Japanese tastes in Europe. Fashion of dress as Japanese expressed in European painting works not only symbolizes the 'modernity' expressive of the aspiration and nostalgia for Japan but presents the Japan of exotic taste as the inquisitive object of sexual interest. And the expressive method of the peculiar the beauty of the body was described in Japanese painting works because of the fashion characteristics that the frontal side of Japanese clothing was presented in a more decorative and formative way than its reverse side due to decorative design and belts. It could be found that this was introduced actively into the painting works of the impressionist school. This study attempts to discuss the expressive style including the pictorial style, technique and theme shown in the accommodating process of Japanese painting in the Impressionistic school and investigate the phenomenon of Japonisme that was conducted in the western Europe. Accordingly, this study attempts to find out that clothing takes an important place as the aesthetic category of one historical point in time by investigating the Japanese clothing of the times shown in impressionist painting works and that clothing forms the stylistic characteristics and formative characteristics of painting. It could be found that dress existed not only as the instrument capable of illustrating the aesthetic attitude or will of the human being as visual identity but as plastic art and became the prime mover for reinterpreting and changing the plastic style of art frontier.

A Study on Features of Parts of Jikryug and Relations Am]O the Features (직령의 부위별 형태 특성과 상호간의 관련성 연구)

  • 이주영;권영숙
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.54 no.5
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    • pp.109-123
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    • 2004
  • The purpose of this study is to examine features of parts of Jikryung and relations among the features. Results of the study can be described as follows. 1. The short front and long rear of Jikryung was changed into the long front and long rear of the dress in the late 16th century. Kalgit of quasi-square style as double collar was changed into that of common collar in the late 16th century and then into common semi-circle collar in the early 17th century, when double Sup was also changed Into single Sup. Narrow sleeves of Jikryung were replaced by bean chaff-shaped in the late 16th century and then by wide ones in the early period of the next century. The shape of the side hem of Jikryung was changed from rectangle into trapezoid in the early 17th century Triangle-shaped Moo was changed into trapezoid-shaped one in the late 16th century and then again into triangle in the late 17th century 2. Changes in shapes of the parts of Jikryung were made with them correlated. The collar of Jikryung saw change in its form from double to common as its width was reduced. Double Sup was changed into single one and the narrow, short coat string into the long one as Jikryung became a dress needing less adjustment. The sleeves widened as the length of whajang increased. The side hem of Jikryung saw change in its shape from rectangular to trapezoidal one as its position was changed. Trapezoidal Moo was replaced by triangular one as the sleeve of Jikryung was changed in shape. 3. Changes in shapes of the parts of Jikryung influenced the aesthetic beauty of the dress itself In its first period, Jikryung was simple with long, slim silhouettes. In its second period, the dress was rich with increased volume. Finally in its third period, the dress was characterized by the harmony of simpleness and richness.

A Study on the Current Situation of Korean Fashion Design (한국적 패션디자인의 현황 연구)

  • Shim, Soo-Hyun;Na, Yoo-Sin;Chae, Gum-Seok
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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    • v.5 no.1 s.12
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    • pp.14-23
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    • 2007
  • Hanbok had the history of more than 2,000 years, so Hanbok represents the traditional Korean style of dress design. Since 1980's, Hanbok has been changed to be suitable for contemporary society with diverse titles such as reformed Korean clothes, living Korean clothes, contemporary Korean clothes, and fashion Korean clothes, etc. However, Korean clothes of such a new style have not overcome a limitation in traditional styles in terms of design. In this regard, it is necessary for us to try to have the world fashion industry recognize the fashion look of 'Korean style' through the contemporary fashion of Korean image and to pursue the globalization of Korean style through this fashion. This study is firstly to review the characteristics of Korean beauty, secondly to examine the concept in Korean fashion design, and thirdly to iud out the characteristics of contemporary Korean fashion design through the study of successful cases. The characteristics of Korean beauty can be classified into natural beauty, abstract beauty, and humorous beauty. Korean beauty shows the nature and the life of Korean people, and it should make people aware of the character and the tradition of Korean culture. The Korean fashion design is the one that utilize the Korea's unique sentiment or sense of Korean beauty that has been succeeded from the ancient to the present into fashion design by way of visual element like design, color and texture. And the successful Korean fashion designs were the universal fashion designs that enable Korean culture to be hewn to the world through fashion and that enable the entire world market to agree and to accept Korean style. In order to create the global Korean design, it is necessary to assimilate the Western style to Korean style and newly create it into a compromised form. And it is necessary to look for a universal sense of Korean beauty that could be accepted by the people of the world.

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A Study on the Expression Types of Korean Beauty in Korean Fashion (한국 패션에 나타난 한국미의 표현유형에 관한 연구)

  • Choi, Hae-Joo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.63 no.1
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    • pp.147-160
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    • 2013
  • Korean fashion designs became important items in Korea in the middle of the 1980s, and it has advanced into the world market in the early part of the 1990s. To achieve success in global fashion world, it is necessary to analyze Korean fashion design thoroughly and prepare strategies to develop designs with mainstream acceptance in the global fashion world. The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristics and Korean beauties of Korean fashion designs. Fashion photos of Korean fashion designs from 2006 S/S to 2012 F/W were analyzed. 357 designs from 608 designs of 4 representative Korean designers were examined and design characteristics, expression styles were studied. The major conclusions of the study are as follows : 1. H Line, slim, fitted silhouette and loose look were applied. 2. 5 major traditional colors, red, blue, yellow, white and black colors were used. Brown color, neutral color, golden color and beige color of the textile material's original color were used. Traditional textile materials like ramie fabric, satin and cotton, wool and metallic fabric were used. 3. Patterns of flower, traditional pattern and Korean letters were applied. Embroidery, patchwork and mother-of-pearl were decorated. 4. The three types of beauty were natural beauty, moderate beauty and decorative beauty. The types that were analyzed were realistic expression type, moderate expression type, image expression type and mixed expression type. To be accepted in global fashion world, Korean traditional design elements should be modified, broken down and reorganized so that Korean fashion design can be recreated.

아바타 시스템과 한국의 복식문화 접목을 통한 "디지털 복식 아바타" 개발에 관한 연구

  • 김영삼
    • Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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    • 2003.05a
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    • pp.42-42
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    • 2003
  • 세계적으로 인터넷 이용 인구는 2002년 2월 현재 5억 4천 4백만여명에 이르고 있으며, 우리나라의 인터넷 이용 인구는 2001년 12월말 자료에 의하면 2천4백3십8만여명에 달하는 것으로 보고되고 있다(한국 인터넷정보센터통계보고서, 2002). 또한, 네오위즈는 작년 한 해 아바타 매출 100억원을 돌파, 다모임은 지난해 12월 한달간의 아바타 매출이 3억 6000만원에 달하였으며, 다움(Daum)의 경우 서비스 개시 15일 만에 일일 발생 매출이 1천만원 돌파, 현재 1일 3천500만원의 수익을 올리는 등, 아바타 선두 업체 뿐 아니라 후발 주자들도 큰 수익 창출하고 있다(Economy21- 2002.04.25). 올 한해 아바타 시장규모는 800억원-1000억원으로 예상되고 있으며, 이러한 시장 증대에 따라 기존 캐릭터 업체들이 구축계약 위주에서 서비스 제휴사업으로 아바타모델 제안 및 시장영업이 증대되고 있다. 즉, 아바타 시장은 구축되어 있는 것이 아니라 계속적으로 확대되어 가고 있음. 또한 아바타산업은 인터넷 인프라의 확산과 더불어 아바타의 호응 또한 급격히 상승하고 있으며, 단순히 사이버 세계에서의 분신으로서의 역할에서 벗어나 다양한 부가가치를 구현하는 아바타의 등장으로 아바타의 확산은 계속적인 추세이다. 또한 아바타는 게임, 채팅, 일정관리등 인터넷 전 분야에 걸쳐 Cyber Agent활용도가 확산되고 있으며, 아바타 시장은 초기 일본형 애니메이션 아바타에서 벗어나 아바타와 패션, 아바타와 문화의 접목에 대한 관심이 상승되고 있으며 이로 인한 신규시장이 창출되고 있다 이러한 디지털 시대로의 급격한 발전은 복식문화를 디지털 문화컨텐츠 사업화로의 그 발전방향을 제시하고 있다.2cm 적용하고, 진동두께 계산식은 (B/8-1.5)+2cm를 적용함으로써 진동깊이와 진동두께의 편차가 작아짐으로 인해 소매부위와 진동부위의 맞음새를 향상시켰다. 3) 가슴둘레의 증가에 따라 등길이에 앞길이 치수를 증가시키는 계산식을 설정하여 앞가슴둘레의 맞음새를 향상시켰다. 4) Plus-size여성의 경우 허리부분의 신체적합성을 높이기 위하여 사이드 판넬(side panel)의 재킷원형으로 하였다. 앞 허리와 배 부분의 지방 침착이 크므로 앞 허리둘레 다아트 폭과 앞판 사이드 판넬(side panel) 솔기 다아트 폭을 작게 설정하고, 뒤판 사이드 판넬 솔기 폭을 크게 설정하였다. 5) 어깨끝점 사이길이는 다른 부위의 체지방 침착과 같이 비례적으로 증가하지 않으므로 표준체형에 비해 좁게 설정하였다. 보여주어 우리나라의 선호 질감과는 차이가 있었다. 실제 판매율을 살펴본 결과 주관적 질감 이미지 평가의 선호도와의 비교에서 약간의 차이가 있었는데, 이는 질감 외에 가격이 구매에 영향을 미쳤기 때문으로 분석되었다., 2002; Huun et al, 2001).의 특징이라 할 수 있겠다. 대한 자부심과 국제 사회에서 차별화 할 수 있는 한국 복식 디자인에 독창성과 창조성을 표현하는 중요한 영역임을 인식할 수 있었다.와 보호인자를 재확인할 필요가 있다고 보며 본 연구의 결과는 지역민의 대장직장암 예방을 위한 영양교육 자료로서 활용될 수 있다고 본다. 관여도에 영향을 미치고 있음을 알 수 있었다. 유지되어 쾌적역이 향상된 것으로 사려된다.하였으며, 효율적인 색채 정보로서 활용될 수 있는 패션 색채 팔레트를 제시하였다는데 의의가 있다.′, aesthetic of ′unity in multiplicity′, a

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