회원 신윤복 풍용도에 표현된 복식미의 연구

The fashion of late Yi dynasty had explored a possibility of new fashional beauty from its own experiences throughout the history of Korean fashion excluding any interference of foreign fashions, and brought out some characteristics ; first, the aesthetical value focused on the more human fashion resulted in the exposure of waist. This aesthetical change in the fashion of late Yi dynasty produced out results as follows ; the length and width of jacket became short and narrow maintaining the basic form, while the width of skirt became increased to be contrasted exceptionally with the upper coat. This mode of fashion reveals the transitional movement from the emphasis on balance to that on unbalance in the late period of Yi dynasty. But regarding the fact that the proportional change by the ways of putting on skirt became to be similar to the golden ratio, we can see many examples throughout the folk paintings by Shin Yun bok, we find that the fashional beauty of that age pursued ideal harmony and unity all the time being in spite of its tendency toward non-refinement. Second, we see another peculiarity in the mode of woman's fashion from the paintings by Shin Yun-bok who always depicted the hu-man nature frankly. For example, the jacket became shorter to emphasize lady's slim waist, and underwears began to be exposed after the upper part of skirt had been to expose lady's waist while the bottom line pulled up highter than before. Thus, as the function of robe had changed from a mere means of covering into an expression of beauty, the fashion of late Yi dynasty began to express a perfectly new beauty possessing an erotic mood and sensu-ality of a woman, which was its inner aesthetic need. Third, this emergence of new fashional beauty made the mental value of man and the aesthetic views of that time quite different from the previous ones, and finally there came various expressions of a new beauty. There-fore, the woman's fashion of late Yi dynasty is noted for the exposure and emphasis on the body line of a woman after the aesthetic view-point had changed of time toward pragmatism and humanism, while upholding the traditions of Korean clothes and pride for the nation. And our ancestors realized very Korean fashional beauty by pursuing the expressional ways of gentle, indirect emphasis upon the feminine and natural beauty to exclude and ar-tificial, direct and straightforward exposures and images.