• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권6호
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• pp.821-832
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to develop grading method of the basic brassiere patterns therewith, provide for 12 size's brassiere patterns and prove fitness of their's and shape. The collected data were statistically processed using the SAS 6.12 for Means, Standard Deviation, etc. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. The basic sizes adopted at the first design stage (see fig.1-2) were 75AA, 75A and 75B each of which was designed as upper foundation basic pattern in reference to the cup size. At the second stage, each of the upper body foundation basic pattern was used to design lower cup, upper up, front panel and wing in their order(see fig.3-6). At the third stage, the other sizes were graded in reference to the three brassiere patterns (75AA, 75A and 75B) to produce 12 brassiere sizes(see Tab. 7-8). In order to develop the basic patterns of adult women's brassieres, 33 women were selected per 11 size combination(3 women per size combination), and then, their brassiere fitting was teated. As a result, the fronts of the basic patterns were found to have such problems as undone front center, poor levelling of upper cup's bottom line or lower cup's top line, poor shape of upper cup's outside top line and shoulder strip position. On the other hand, on the rear side of the basic patterns, the central part of the wing was slightly lifted, while the wing width and straps'interval did not befit the ful1-cup brassiere. The result of this first brassiere fitting test showed that the functionality and aesthetics of the basic pattern brassieres were more or less satisfactory, and thus, the problems were addressed for the second teat. In the second test, the aesthetics, breast-shaping effect and functionality of the basic pattern brassieres were much improved. 2. We were to present the final brassiere sizing system to extend the interior length of breast and the exterior length of breast on the basis of fitting test. Thereby, 75B$.$80A$.$80B$.$85A$.$85B's the interior lengths of breast were enlarged to 0.7cm, the rest size was enlarged to 0.5cm and the exterior length of breast was enlarged to 0.5cm regardless of sizes. 3. The upper foundation basic patterns of 75AA and 75B were presented and and the basic brassiere pattern and grading pattern were presented through to.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권4호
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• pp.633-645
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to develop brassiere patterns which are both fitting and functional for women aged 19 to 24(the 1924 generation). We suggested a 'size chart for body measurements' for constructing basic brassiere patterns with six sizes of '70, 75', 'AA, A, B cups', which are used most frequently by the 1924 generation consumers. The scope of research was in reference to the statistical analysis results of the Size Korea(2004) body measurements and the results of the data from the preceding research. The 'drafting method for constructing basic brassiere patterns for the 1924 generation consumers' was completed by selecting a total of 18 subjects, 3 for each six sizes in the scope of research, and three wearing tests were carried out with the subjects. We compiled one brassiere pattern in six sizes obtained with the drafting method of constructing a basic brassiere pattern on another by block pattern in order to observe the phase of change in dimensions and shapes of paper pattern. The result was converted into the variations of a x-axis and a y-axis, and we suggested 'Size Grading Rule' and 'Cup Grading Rule' for the basic brassiere patterns. As the results of the wearing evaluation of the basic brassieres and measuring the variation in body dimensions by wearing brassieres, the dimensions and shapes of the basic brassieres suggested in this research proved to be fitting and to have a wearing effect that brings together and supports the breasts.

• 한국인터넷방송통신학회논문지
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• 제20권3호
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• pp.43-51
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• 2020

본 논문에서는 RWP(Radar Wind Profiler)에 적용한 64배열안테나의 설계에 대해 기술하였다. RWP의 안테나는 핵심 설계 포인트는 각 소자간의 격리도를 확보하고, 수직/수평 방사패턴의 일치이다. 이를 위해 배열안테나의 단일소자를 Bend다이폴 타입으로 제안하고, 모의시험을 통해 동작 주파수에서 우수한 정배파비 특성과 수직 / 수평간 방사패턴의 일치성을 확인하였으며, 연직을 포함하는 5개의 빔을 순차적으로 송출시 동/서/남/북 방향은 ±20°로 빔조향시 그레이딩로브가 발생하지 않음을 확인하였다. 본 논문에서 제안한 64배열 안테나는 해외제품과 비교하여 동등이상의 성능으로 설계하였으며, RWP에 적용이 가능함을 확인하였다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권3_4호
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• pp.390-401
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• 2002

본 연구에서는 기성복의 맞음새와 치수체계에 따른 문제점을 제시하기 위하여 현재 시판되고 있는 여성복 재킷을 중심으로 사이즈별 각 패턴의 치수 및 공극량 분석을 실시하였으며 결과는 다음과 같다. 1. 재킷에 대한 관능검사(self sensory test)결과, 패턴 B의 점수가 가장 낮았으며, 동일한 사이즈의 의복임에도 불구하고 재킷의 착용감은 유의적인 차이가 있는 것으로 나타났다. 2. 패턴 계측 결과 각 브랜드간의 패턴 그레이딩 량은 차이를 나타내어 동일한 사이즈임에도 불구하고 여유량이 서로 다르게 나타났으며, 수직방향보다는 수평방향의 증가량이 큰 것으로 나타났다. 3. 3D scanner를 이용하여 인체 및 착의인체를 스캔한 결과, 3차원 입체 형상으로 의복의 착의상태를 볼수 있으므로 2차원 정보를 얻을수 있는 사진촬영 결과에 비하여 활용성이 높으며 촬영거리에 따른 피사체의 왜곡이 없으므로 정확도가 높은 것으로 나타났다. 4. 패턴별 평균공극길이에 대한 유의성 검증 결과, B88사이즈의 허리부위를 제외한 모든 부위에서 유의성이 인정되지 않았으며 사이즈별 평균공극길이에 대한 유의성 검증결과에서는 품, 배, 엉덩이부위에서 유의성이 인정되어 사이즈가 커질수록 이들 부분의 여유량 설정에 신중을 기하여야한다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권5호
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• pp.771-778
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• 2009

There may be some problems in size fitness for ready-made-clothes purchasers with fatty body shape especially for them with abdominal obesity. The purpose of this study was to improve the wearing comfort of Middle-aged women slacks by setting grading points and developing grading rules proper to the abdominal obesity. The subjects in this study was over $25kg/m^2$ of the BMI, over 85cm of waist, and over 0.8 of WHR. A total of 176 Middle-aged women satisfyingthem were enrolled. The results of this study are as follows: (1) The majority segment is 85-94 size accounting for the 11.36% of subjects. (2) The measurements on 11 size from three groups after drawing slacks pattern on them revealed that the changed values of slacks front and back on the grading point marked are differ, indicating that it is needed to apply body shape and age specific grading rule. (3) The evaluation on the appearance for wearing slacks showed relatively high score, indicating that the grading between sizes within each group was effective. The studies on the body size distribution on each obesity pattern and on the setting size system reflecting characteristics of each body shape should be performed continuously.

• 한국가정과학회지
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• 제8권4호
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• pp.13-22
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to develop pattern and grading method of slacks of adults women of standard somatotype to prove fitness of lower body shape. The results of this study can be summarized as follows: 1. the 4 pattern were compared by the sensory evaluation to choose which one is more appropriate to this research. The slacks pattern developed by modification from L method. 2. The results of the sensory evaluation have down that the new slacks pattern have better fit than the traditional pattern. 3. The standard sized patterns were graded using Moonwha grading rule as a traditional one and the new grading rule. The new grading rule was developed by fitting the slacks which were made by traditional grading rule. 4. The results of the sensory evaluation have down that the slacks made by the new grading rule developed in this work have better fit than the ones made by the traditional grading rule.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.153-171
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• 2016

With the advent of smart clothing for health care and sports, the sophisticated designs with curved seams are drawing attention. One of the problems in those clothing is to determine the design curves in 2D pattern, such that it corresponds to the lines on the intended 3D body. Moreover, the difficulty increases when the original pattern needs to be changed for various sizes and body types. We compare two methods of pattern enlargement in this paper: one is the offset/projection type, and the other is the split grading type. For the enlarged pattern with offset/projection type, the 3D surface offset was first adopted to transform the standard lower body to the target larger size; next, the design lines were projected to the new 3D surface, following which the 3D pattern was developed from the newly transformed 3D surface. In the second method, the enlarged pant patterns were developed by the split grading method. Here, a 3D pattern was developed from the initial body, and then enlarged to the target size by the conventional split grading method. Two feminine pants patterns were examined by 3D virtual fitting. We observed that the 3D offset/projection pants pattern was well fitted, having an evenly distributed surplus, as compared with the sample developed using the split grading method. The difference between the two patterns were apparent at the location where several curved lines merged.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권6호
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• pp.934-942
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• 2011

This study was intended to analyze conventional grading increments and methods for middle-age men's pants, and to suggest new grading guidelines that will enable to improve satisfaction with size and silhouette as a result of combining the concept of grading, which help maintain the ratio and proportion by sizes as one of ready-made apparel's advantages, with body form oriented and aesthetic approaches. In the apparel industry, the current sizing specifications and methods adopted by relevant companies, as well as the characteristics of body forms of men aged 35 to 55 years were comparatively analyzed to find out problems and ultimately to suggest their solutions or improvements. It was considered that as the conventional grading practices used in the industry were customary on the basis of the past experiences, it was required to take the body forms of target consumers into account and also, to reconsider the conventional grading methods. Analyses of sizing and specifications by brands show that 4 to 19 sizes including 82 or 84 as standard size have been produced. Since men's apparel has a large number of sizes with the large range of sizes, grading is critically important. As silhouettes depend on the distribution of grading rule values at each point of increment pattern in the main regions during grading, it is necessary to consider both size grading and form variations. To maintain an appropriate silhouette with keeping the angle of center back line of a pattern, it is desirable to set the ratio of side line part to center part from the crease line to approximately 3:7. It is required to diversify the values of grading rules according to different sizes and pattern regions in consideration for the body forms of key consumers. In addition, if the natural lines of designs and patterns for the width increments of waist circumference and hip circumference, the increments of hip width in pant's front and back panels, the ratio of grading rule values of the right and left sides of crease line, knee circumference, thigh circumference and so on are taken into account, grading will be satisfactory in the all aspects of size, silhouette and ratio.