• Title/Summary/Keyword: 패턴그레이딩

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A study on the grading increments chart for women's bodice pattern in their 20s (20대 여성 정장 상의 원형의 그레이딩 부위별 치수 설정 연구)

  • Kwak, Younsin
    • The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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    • v.6 no.3
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    • pp.205-210
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    • 2020
  • The purpose of this study is to propose grading increments chart for women's bodice sloper in their 20s in order to increase consumer satisfaction with apparel products. The selected bodice sloper is a compromise between the German Müller bodice sloper and the Japanese Munhwa bodice sloper. Based on National Standards Position Survey data, the main dimension average for women in their 20s was set. The grading increments was set at the grading deviation application area in bodyboard and sleeve. Thereafter grading was done and the suitability of the graded pattern was checked.

A Study on Pattern Grading of Eco Resort wear for Jeju Medical Tourism (제주 의료관광을 위한 에코 휴양복의 패턴그레이딩 연구)

  • Choi, Gun-Han;Kang, In-Hee;Yang, Hye-Jin;Lee, Mi-Na;Lee, Eun-Joo;Ko, Ju-Hyung;Hong, Ji-Un;Kwon, Sook-Hee
    • Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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    • v.13 no.4
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    • pp.733-740
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    • 2010
  • This proposal of eco-friendly Resort wear targeting medical tourists of Jeju intend to contribute to the local economy by creating more added-values and profits. With high-quality leisure outfits, the medical tourism could provide tourists more pleasantness as well as a souvenior, which may help them to cherish the memory in Jeju. Well-developed Galot leisure outfits matched with other Galot products could result in additionary buying of other Galot items. Furthermore, by developing the size system as well as pattern grading, we can help local Galot manufacturers who currently require these standardized creation system. The summary of this research is as follows: 1. we examined the current issues and disadvantages of the local Galot through a survey. 2. We defined the Galot leisure outfit for Jeju medical tourism, conducted market research, and reflected these into representative designs for them. 3. We developed a size system as well as a pattern grading to standardize the manufacturing process.

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A Study on the Comparative Evaluation of wearing Fitness of Women′s Ready-made Jackets Using 3D Scanner (3D Scanner를 이용한 여성용 기성복 재킷의 착의적합성에 관한 비교평가연구)

  • Kim, Haekyung;Eunyoung Suk;Park, Soonjee;Chuyeon Suh;Jiyoung Lim
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.25 no.10
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    • pp.1707-1718
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    • 2001
  • 본 연구 목적은 3차원 인체 스캐너를 이용하여 여자 기성복 재킷의 여유량을 비교, 분석하는 것으로, 2사이즈 7브랜드의 재킷의 공극량을 계측하여 분석하였다. 첫째, 재킷 단면둘레 분석 결과, B85(품), B8(허리)를 제외하고 브랜드간에 유의한 차이를 나타내지 않아, 전반적으로, 브랜드간 제품치수에는 차이가 없는 것으로 나타났다. 둘째, 인체와 재킷의 단면둘레 분석 결과, 재킷의 배둘레를 제외한 모든 항목에서 유의한 차이가 나타나 피험자, 재킷 모두 사이즈에 따라 유의적인 차이 가 있음을 알 수 있다. 셋째, 기본사이즈 B85에서는 허리를 제외하고는 패턴 F가 가장 여유량이 많은 것으로 나타났으나, B88의 경우, 부위별로 각기 다른 패턴에서 여유량이 가장 많은 것으로 나타나, 각 부분마다 브랜드별로 그레이딩 룰이 다름을 알 수 있다. 넷째, 착의 단면은 인체와 의복간의 여유량 분포를 명백히 보여주며, 어깨, 가슴, 엉덩이처럼 몸에 밀착되는 부위는 다른 부위에 비해 패턴간, 각도별 변이가 적은 것으로 나타났다. 품, 허리, 배에서는 옆보다는 앞, 뒤로, 가슴에서는 앞뒤 좌우의 30$^{\circ}$방향, 엉덩이의 경우, 옆, 뒤보다는 앞쪽에 여유량이 집중되어 있는 것으로 나타났다. 다섯째, 브랜드별 평균공극길이에 대한 분산분석 결과, 전반적으로 패턴 F가 가장 공극량이 많고, 패턴 D가 작은 것으로 나타났다. 여섯째, 사이즈별 평균공극길이에 대한 t-검정 결과, 품과 배 부분에서, B88이 B85보다 공극량이 적은 것으로 나타나, 기준부위인 가슴, 허리, 엉덩이 부분뿐만 아니라 품, 배둘레의 치수에 대응할 수 있도록 그레이딩 룰 값을 산정하여야 함을 알 수 있다.

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A Study on the Development of Jeans Pattern and Grading Method (청바지 패턴 및 그레이딩에 관한 연구)

  • 정선희;이정란
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.27 no.9_10
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    • pp.1048-1059
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    • 2003
  • This study focusses pattern draft and grading of jeans for women in their 20s, who consume jeans the most. Pattern was drafted based on existing patterns collected from companies. It is different from the existing educational patterns. It suggests new sizing system for twenties referring to sizes used companies and grading rule and method. he results were as follows; 1. Companies manufacture 2-8 sizes and they referred to the Korean Industrial Standards, KS K 0051, for their sizing system. 2. Drawing method for Pattern of the study had following measurements for each part: in the case of waist circumference, front part was W/4+1.5cm, back part was W14+2cm, front hip circumference was H/4-1.5cm, crotch line was the crotch length (practical measurement), hip circumference was (upper crotch line length)/5+0.5cm, front crotch part was 2.7cm, back crotch part was W/5+2.7cm, knee height was (the length of leg)/2+6cm and the circumference of knee and the tip of pants were 40cm. Through the wearing test on the subject of twenties, researched pattern received higher ratings, especially in appearance than the existing pattern. 3. 5 sizes system was made referred to the sizing system of companies and National Anthropometric Survey of Korean in 1997 Grading rule for 12 grading points of front part and 13 grading points of back part was suggested. Results of wearing test on the graded patterns showed high ratings similar to standard size.

Foundational Research for DB of Pattern Grading of Galot, Jeju Cultural Merchandise (제주 문화상품 갈옷의 패턴 그레이딩 DB를 위한 기초 연구)

  • Kwon, Sook-Hee;Hong, Seon-Cheol
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.45 no.1
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    • pp.111-125
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    • 2007
  • By examining the existing Galot products in the market, we aimed to discover areas for new development and lay out the foundational system for establishing a database(DB) of their pattern grading. For the analysis, the team focused mainly on Galot in forms of casual korean traditional clothes, since they have the largest market share. The main accomplishments from this research are as follows. First, because adult females are the largest segment to consider in deciding the size system for grading, we selected three sizes that have to be compatible with the KS Clothing Standardized Sizing. Second, for basic pattern grading, we applied the reference size indicated in KS Clothing Standardized Size, and also used half dart sloper and dartless sloper. Third, we categorized designs according to the presence or absence of a dart, the structure of closure, and the shape of the sleeve and neck. We indicated the grading points with numbers and body area in Korean to make it easier for the users to understand when using the computer system and doing manual work. To further increase the user convenience, we provided diagrams for categorized designs, pattern grading layout, and a table for calculated grading points variation.

A Study on the Paraplegia Men′s Ready-made Pants Pattern and Grading Method (하반신마비 남성의 기성복 바지원형 및 그레이딩 연구)

  • Kim, Kyung-Im;Lee, Jeon-Ran
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.27 no.12
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    • pp.1441-1452
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    • 2003
  • 오늘날 지체장애인의 수는 후천적 원인으로 인하여 점점 증가하는 추세에 있다. 이에 본 연구는 훨체어를 사용하는 하반신마비자 중 성인남성을 중심으로 인체계측을 통해 적합성이 높은 바지를 개발하는데 목적이 있다. 연구 결과는 다음과 같다. 1. 인체계측 결과 하반신마비자들은 정상인과 비교했을 때 허리둘레 및 배둘레에서 유의한 차이를 보여 새로운 치수체계가 필요로 함을 알 수 있었다 또 자세 변화에 따른 둘레항목의 치수 변화와 피부 신축율에 의해 허리선의 변화가 고려되어 평상시의 휠체어에 앉은 자세에서 계측한 항목으로 원형이 설계되어야 할 필요가 있다고 분석되었다. 2. 연구원형은 기성복화 하기 위한 방법으로 먼저 기준치수(98-102)를 선정하고, 원형 각 부위는 절대치로 수치화 시켜서 제시하였다. 뒤밑위길이선은 허리선에서 8cm 늘이고 앞밑위길이선은 허리선에서 6cm 줄여 앉은 자세에서 편안함을 확보할 수 있도록 하였다. 기준치수의 경우 바지길이 107cm, 밑위길이 26cm, 밑위선 28cm, 엉덩이둘레선은 밑위선 위로 8.5cm, 바지부리는 10.5cm이고 외관과 기능성 평가 결과 대부분의 항목에서 우수한 평가를 받았다. 3. 계측 대상자 계측치를 근거로 치수의 출현율을 고려하여 연구 치수체계를 기본 신체부위인 앉은 허리둘레와 앉은 엉덩이둘레의 순으로 적용하여 총 7개의 치수로 설정하였다. 기준치수(98-102)의 연구원형을 마스터 패턴으로 하고 구체적인 원형 부위별 절대치로써 치수 차를 검토하여 연구 그레이딩 룰을 설계하였으며 기준치수 보다 작은 사이즈 88-93과 큰 사이즈 108-111의 적합성을 검증하였다.

A Study on the Junior-High School Girls' Slacks Pattern Grading by Using Apparel CAD System (CAD 시스템을 활용한 여중생의 슬랙스 패턴 그레이딩에 관한 연구)

  • 임지영
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.40 no.11
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    • pp.1-9
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    • 2002
  • Nowadays, the use of apparel CAD system is important to the mass production of ready to wear Especially, computer-based grading is the most important process to improve the fitness of clothes and to reduce the time needed to make patterns of several sizes. The purpose of this study was to suggest a standard sizing system for junior-high school girls' lower clothes and to suggest a grading method according to the sizing systems. The subjects were 402 junior-high school girls of 13 to 15 year's-old. The size intervals of waist girth and hip girth were 3㎝ and 4㎝ respectively. The sizing system, which had frequencies more than 4.5%, was classified 8 cases. For regular grading, two types of group were classified into 58-82/61-86/64-90/67-94 and 61-82/64-86/67-90/70-94. Among them, 61-86 and 64-86 size were adopted the basic size for the development of grading. According to the sizing system, hand-made patterns were manufactured. By measure of the each part of the slacks, new grading rule patterns were developed by each size. A new grading rule was different from the Moonwha grading rule. This result will contribute to clothing fitness of consumer and the amount of production.

Classification of Body Types for Pattern Grading of Ready-to-Wear -focusing on Korean Males aged from 44 to 54- (신사복의 패턴 그레이딩을 위한 체형 분류 -44세에서 54세사이의 한국 성인 남성을 대상으로-)

  • 김구자;정명숙
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.25 no.6
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    • pp.1069-1078
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    • 2001
  • Pattern grading is a technique used to increase or decrease the size of a garment pattern according to the measurements in a given size chart. The original pattern is graded and laid out for cutting before mass production. This study tried to classify body types for pattern grading of jacket by applying a concept of "drop"defined as the difference between chest girth and waist girth and the difference between hip girth and waist girth for pants. Data were collected through the stratified sampling method. 138 subjects were selected out of 1,290 subjects of our sample population. Findings were as follows : 1) For pattern grading of jacket, the cell with the chest girth of 96cm and the waist girth of 87cm had the highest frequency rate and body type was 87H type and the coverage of this type was 9.52%. Then, the size specification 87-96 was the center of distribution. H type had seven ones such as 72H, 75H, 78H, 81H, 84H. 87H and 90H. H type had 33 observations and frequency ratio of 26.19%. Same types could be graded up and down from the reference size for the age group. And this reference size became to the starting point for developing the grading system. 2) For pattern grading of pants, fatty types, H10 type had six ones such as 80H10. 82H10, 84H10, 86H10, 88H10 and 90H10. H10 type had 28 observations and frequency ratio of 20.29%. H6 type had 6 ones such as 84H6, 86H6, 88H6, 90H6. 92H6 and 94H6. H6 type had 27 observations and frequency ratio of 19.57%. If lower body types were classified as same ones, these types could be graded up and down proportionately.

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Development of Bi-directional Grading Method for Uniform Easy-order System -Focused on Blouse for Adult Female- (유니폼의 이지오더 시스템을 위한 양방향 그레이딩 개발 -성인여성 블라우스를 중심으로-)

  • Choi, Young-Lim;Nam, Yun-Ja;Choi, Kueng-Mi
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.33 no.6
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    • pp.860-868
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    • 2009
  • To provide adequate fit for women over a range of sizes, the grading process should reflect their body dimensions. Current methods of creating sized garments are not addressing the need for a good or even an adequate fit for the easy-order system. This study suggests a grading rule allocating system that can improve the appropriateness of clothing for uniform easy-order system. Also, the study proposes a bi-directional grading method subdivided to horizontal and vertical direction. The grading rule allocating system suggested the size increments which improve the fitness of uniform. Using the 5th Size Korea data, the crosstabulation was conducted with 1305 females in the age group $20{\sim}49$ years, and the size increments including $155\sim165$ of height section and $79\sim94$ of bust section, was selected for easy-order system. Also, the bi-directional grading method subdivided in horizontal and vertical direction was followed by factor analysis based on the circumference and height. And the grading rules were calculated by regression analysis.

The Trends of Computer Aided Design in the Clothing and Textiles Programs in U.S.A. Colleges & Universities (의류학관련 학과에서의 CAD의 경향 - 미국내 대학을 중심으로 -)

  • Choi, Hyun Joo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.17 no.4
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    • pp.638-647
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    • 1993
  • 현재 미국에서 컴퓨터 디자인(Computer aided design)은 의류산업과 의류학 교육에 중요한 역할을 하고 있다. 그러나 한국내 의류학관련 학과에서의 CAD의 도입은 아직 초기 단계에 불과하다. 이에 본 연구는 미국내 대학을 중심으로 의류학관련 학과에서의 전반적인 CAD 교육 경향을 조사 분석하여 실질적인 자료와 국내 의류학관련 학과의 CAD 교육의 나아갈 방향을 제시하는데 그 목적이 있다. 1993년 5월, 총 19문항의 질문지가 124개 대학 의류학관련 학과에 우편으로 배포되었으며 71부가 회수되어 57%의 회수율을 나타내었다. 그 결과는 다음과 같다. 조사 대상(71개 학교)중 56%가 CAD를 커리큘럼에 포함시켰다. 특히 의상디자인 전공을 가진 학과의 79%가 CAD를 도입하여, 의상디자인 전공이 없는 학과(28%가 CAD를 도입)보다 그 비율이 훨씬 높았다. 의류학 교육에서 CAD의 도입은 1988년 이후 급격한 증가 추세를 보였으며, 대부분의 강의는 의류학분야 교수진에 의해, 의류학과 시설물내에서 이루어졌다. CAD를 독립된 과목으로 강의하는 경우 대부분 필수과목으로서 한 학기 코오스가 많았으며 3학년부터 시작되었다. CAD를 다른 의류학 과목에 포함시켜 일부분으로 강의할 경우 영역 별로는 복식 의장학 분야의 과목에, 시간 별로는 한 학기 중 "몇 주" 정도로 가르치는 경우가 가장 많았다. 전체 CAD 강의에서 다루는 주제로는 패턴 메이킹이 가장 많이 차지하였으며 그 다음에는 패턴 그레이딩, 마커 메이킹, 직물/패턴 디자인, 패션 일러스트레이션, 의상디자인 순이며 스토어 레이아웃 상품전시 및 디스플레이 계획이 가장 적었다. 본 연구 결과는 현재 CAD를 강의하고 있거나 앞으로 CAD를 커리큘럼에 도입하려는 한국 의류학 분야 교육자에게 유용한 정보를 제공할 수 있을 것으로 기대된다.

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