• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.717-729
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• 2019

This study defines critical fashion designs and investigate its critical messages on fashion itself. The critical messages on fashion are categorized into two major issues of a fashion industry system and fashion consumer culture. This study contributes to the understanding of meaning and value for critical fashion messages that match critical art. As the research method, this study combines a literature review and case studies and the research scope focuses on cases that have appeared in fashion media since the 2000s when social critical messages in fashion began to emerge. The results of the study are as follows. Critical designers such as Viktor & Rolf, Elisa van Joolen, Issey Miyake, and Mary Ping have delivered messages challenging the nature of fashion industry system that criticize the cycle and limitation of a fashion system and pursues changes in perception of sustainability. The critical message on fashion consumer culture articulated by designers such as Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood, Hussein Chalayan, and Ricarda Bigolin & Nella Themelios insist on the formation of community while delivering a critical message on social, political, and cultural problems that raise the mechanism of social awareness through fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.47 no.3
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• pp.459-474
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• 2023

Contemporary fashion criticism tends to rely solely on the established art criticism process without consideration of the distinctive characteristics of fashion. Thus, this study aims to reveal the unique roles and characteristics of fashion criticism by recognizing it as an independent field in contemporary art with its own social significance. This study will first apply traditional art criticism models to analyze and explore contemporary fashion criticism's empirical content before uncovering the uniqueness of contemporary fashion criticism by content analysis. Contemporary fashion criticism discusses not just physical objects but various topics and ideas, as well. Accordingly, the existing criticism model was modified in this study to fit contemporary fashion criticism and organized into five stages: description of historical fashion, form description, external evaluation, interpretation, and internal evaluation. Commerciality, the human body, coordination, the critic's individuality, trends, and fashion-related persons were identified as key factors of contemporary fashion criticism's uniqueness. In conclusion, rather than build a single contemporary fashion model, this study found it more effective to create individual fashion criticism models suitable for detailed fields, as these enable the discussion of multifaceted topics in the fashion field. This study is expected to serve a meaningful guide for the fashion discourses.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.215-231
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• 2024

The changing media landscape has diversified how and what is discussed about fashion. This study aims to examine expert discussions about fashion shows on social media from the perspective of fashion criticism. To achieve this goal objectively, a text mining program, Leximancer, was used. In total, 58 videos were collected from the panel discussion section of Showstudio from S/S 21 to S/S 24, and the results of text mining on 24,080 collected texts after refinement are detailed here. First, the researchers examined the frequency of keywords by season. This revealed that in 2021-2022, digital transformation, diversity, and fashion films are now commonly used to promote fashion collections, often replacing traditional catwalk shows. From 2023, sustainability and virtuality appeared more frequently, and fashion brands focused on storytelling to communicate seasonal concepts. In S/S 2024, the rise of luxury brand keywords and an increased focus on consumption has been evident. This suggests that it is influenced by social and cultural phenomena. Second, the overall keywords were analyzed and categorized into five concepts: formal descriptions and explanations of the collection's outfits, sociocultural evaluations of fashion shows and designers, assessments of the commerciality and sustainability of the current fashion industry, interpretations of fashion presentations, and discussions of the role of fashion shows in the future. The significance of this study lies in its identification of the specificity of contemporary fashion criticism and its objective approach to critical research.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.87-103
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• 2020

This study investigates critical fashion and discusses its critical messages, as it challenges the existing system of the fashion industry. This study reviews the literature on critical art and critical design and analyzes exhibition catalogs, magazines, and websites related to critical fashion practices. Thereupon, this study assumes the two distinctive messages of critical fashion design: materiality and experience, and the redefinition of the ideal body. First, materiality and experience pursues a change in perceptions of clothing materials by way of deconstructing clothes and exposing the process of production. This type of critical fashion breaks away from the traditional sartorial conventions and articulates new structures and experiences through dematerialization. Second, the redefinition of the ideal human body attempts to subvert the stereotypes of ideal beauty and introduce a variety of beauty in the human body. This type of critical design reconstructs the human body through transformation, expansion, and deconstruction and is often liberated from the dichotomy of gender norms.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.66-78
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to illuminate the location of fashion in contemporary society and to suggest a direction for fashion criticism in aesthetic$\hat{u}$cultural perspective. For this, literature researches about some of art criticism and fashion criticism theories and cultural studies related to fashion are performed. In this study, fashion criticism is defined as a linguistic analysis and interpretation about a variety of discursive networks around fashion as well as an aesthetic analysis of it. Considering this definition, an analytical framework for the contemporary fashion criticism combines Feldman's and Carney's models with Crane & Bovone's and Entwistle's sociological studies for aesthetic and cultural perspectives. At first, its aesthetic perspective shows 'Description'-'Descriptive formative features', 'Analysis'-'Locate the style' and 'Aesthetic value', 'Interpretation'- 'Interpretation of the fashion object' and 'Socio-cultural interpretation', 'Judgment'-'Critical judgment'. Then, its cultural perspective especially emphasizes 'Socio-cultural interpretation' of the 6 steps above. Socio-cultural interpretation gets tangled with the network of various cultural agents within the fashion system, producers/designers, retailers/suppliers, media/editors, consumers/spectators, and so on. In the course of the fashion system 5 analytical methods about the fashion object can be suggested and they are as follows: Analyses of texts, discourses and symbols of a fashion object, Analyses of fashion systems which produces symbolic values, Analyses of the communication of symbolic values and the disseminating processes through the media, Analyses of the attribution of symbolic values to a fashion object by consumers, and Cross-national studies of symbolic values expressed in a fashion object.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.1-18
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to analyze and understand the approach of critical fashion by comprehending the appropriation of art as a sociocultural phenomenon that influences contemporary fashion. This study inquired into the relevant literature to explain the theoretical background behind critical fashion, and conducted a case study using exhibition catalogues, exhibition works, articles, fashion magazines, and fashion-related websites in order to examine cases of appropriation strategies. As a subversion of meaning by using an existing transposable object image to deliver an experience unlike the actual image, subversive appropriation in critical fashion takes existing things as they are and rearranges them with the purpose of subverting social values while having its subversive style of appropriation. Referring to a style that focuses on labelling the distance between the subject, that refers and that which is referred to, referential appropriation has been reprogramming existing things with an internal and introspective attitudes. In other words, from an exploitative style of appropriation aimed at expanding the meaning with found in objects by avant-garde fashion designers, to a subversive style of appropriation aimed at subverting meanings with transposable objects by conceptual fashion designers, there has been a change toward the referential style of appropriation aimed at expanding artistic forms with created objects critical fashion designers.

• Korean journal of communication and information
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• v.74
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• pp.136-176
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• 2015

Despite the great significance we attach on culture, only a handful of researches focus on the characteristics and practices of cultural journalism. This study has aimed to unravel the changes in the trajectory of cultural journalism of Korean major newspapers, through content analysis and qualitative interpretation of the cultural contents they report. The results show that the number of cultual items have decreased compared to that of 10 years ago, although the entire number of pages has meanwhile increased. News items focused on 'products(advertisement)' and 'life(style)' have increased, whereas those on 'knowledge refined' and 'leisure entertainment' have decreased. 'Critique review commentary', 'academics' and 'performance exhibition art music' items turn out to have decreased significantly; soft contents such as mass culture, tourism, fashion and beauty, on the other hand, have increased considerably. Moreover, the demographic characteristics of news contributors remain almost the same, except that the proportion of ordinary readers/audience has slightly increased. Similarly, although there were no difference regarding the sources of direct quotation, the frequency of quotes from ordinary readers has increased. Consequently, these results imply how the cultural journalism of Korean newspapers are limited in encompassing diverse types of content, differentiating constitution, and presenting critical viewpoints.

• Archives of design research
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.137-146
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• 1998

Historically, with change of life' s environment, The view to see object and person has been changed. So, as the conception that visual design is a help to produce and spread heteronomous view, this study analyse the view character of recent society as follows. A cityscape, fashion, product, prints(paper goods), advertising give a person special view and a person see the object with the view to be infected to capitalistic consumer' s custom. This origin has been started with the view that in the end of 19 c, capitalism has a visible system to build up capital and that in the make-up of modern civil society, the view was activated as the power of system maintenance and it internalized a person heteronomous view as the object of the power. The product esthetics as to make an effective demand in consumer capitalism after 70' s has shaped the way to produce the 'view desire" through the absorption. When the object is changed to 'the show" , opposite the activation of product esthetics make a person the consumer or outlooker with view of voyeurism. As to this study, the reverse ability of "product esthetics view" in the image to be produced to visual design is revealed through investigating the view as the power. So, an autonomous visual expression way and self-discipline criticism are needed.riticism are needed.

• Cartoon and Animation Studies
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• s.44
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• pp.1-31
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• 2016

In this thesis, the movie with mise-en-scene established was compared with the peculiarity of the play that is the etymological source of the term to identify the peculiarity of mise-en-scene which was substituted into animation to find the peculiarity of mise-en-scene in animation. To emphasize the direct connection between the frame's visual peculiarity and the director's opinions, the mise-en-scene of director centered animation created under a restricted environment was reviewed. Mise-en-scene which started from movie critics theory does not simply mean the arrangement of images in a frame. Mise-en-scene emphasizes the exposure of the work's motive by the visual components. The animation's assuming the middle point of environmental share possessed by play and movie when schematizing the genre peculiarity of animation, play and movie was a noteworthy result. It can be said that the cause is that the animation's peculiarity yield different results depending on the making methods; we verified that this is a key factor in the analysis of animation's mise-en-scene. I emphasized that the peculiarity of animation mise-en-scene is in its making method and material and suggested identifying the work's making methods and analyzing the work's aesthetic results derived in this way. The russian animation which was perceived as peripheral arts was relatively free from the burden of censorship while receiving support from the Soviet as a media for propaganda. The russian animation's mise-en-scene which found the material for its works in the country's folklore was metaphorical, focused on new expression forms and achieved experimental elements. Russian animation pursues a unique aesthetic world through space expression based on the forms of opera or ballet and heavy motions formed static inbetweens.