• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.77-89
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• 1991

Based on Boussinesq equation, the parabolic approximation equation is used to analyse the propagation of shallow water waves with currents over slowly varying depth. Rip currents (jet-like) occur mainly in shallow waters where the Ursell parameter significatly exceeds the range of application of Stokes wave theory. We employ the nonlinear parabolic approximation equation which is valid for waves of large Ursell parameters and small scale currents. Two types of currents are considered; relatively strong and relatively weak currents. The wave propagating over rip currents on a sloping bottom experiences a shoaling due to the variations of depth and current velocity as well as refraction and diffraction due to the vorticity of currents. Numerical analyses for a nonlinear theory are valid before the breaking point.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.574-585
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• 2007

To analyze the incident wave characteristics around Haeundae beach the long-term deep water wave data computed by wave hindcast method were used and a continuous wave observation was carried out for 1 year at the 20 m of water depth in front of Haeundae beach. Wave observation data showd that the prevalent wave direction was SSW-S in spring and summer seasons while E-SE in autumn and winter. A numerical modeling shows that the waves from E-SE are refracted strongly due to the shoal developed at the south-east side of Haeundae beach. The simulation also shows inflowing nearshore current along the east coast of the beach develops strongly in autumn and winter. Radioactive isotope tracer experiment for 155 days indicated that the tracers moves to the on-shore direction in the 1st and 2nd tracking then dispersed to the E-W direction along the shore.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.133-142
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• 1992

Beach evolution is of the most important problem is the coastal engineering. Especially, the structure construction through reclamation in the shallow water region nesar the beach will cause many severe problems around the structure. Beach evolution due to the construction of an artificial island in this study was studied using wave transform model and associated of an artificial island in this study was studied using wave transform model and associated sediment transport model. Numerical simulation of the model was applied to the Kwangan beach using the data of waves and shoreline of the area. The combined wave transform model and beach evolution model showed good results. The results show a breakwater will be needed to prevent severe erosion near the eastward Kwangan beach when construction an artificial island in the Suyong Bay. Good results of the study also suggest that the present model can be more widely applied to the prediction of beach evolution.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.84-95
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• 1994

In recent years Jin-Beach and Hyeya River mouth have experienced severe erosion phenomena. The cause of erosion is examined using a 3-dimensional nunumerical sediment transport model. The model is composed of three components : wave model, wave-induced current model and 3-dimensional sediment transport model. In the wave analysis component we consider refraction, diffraction and reflection based on Maruyama and Kajima method. For the wave-induced current model we use depth-integrated continuty equation and momentum equations. For the 3-dimensional sediment transport model we consider bed load and suspended load simutaneously. Model results obtained for Jin-ha Beach and Hyeya River mouth agreed well with experimental results.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.39-46
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• 2010

The calmness inside a harbor plays an important role in the appropriate disposition of harbor structures. However, it is not easy to acquire accurate computational results because these are affected by many factors concerned with wave transformation. Recently, numerical model tests, which are quicker and more economical than hydraulic model experiments, were carried out for the purpose of analyzing wave height distributions in harbors. This paper presents a numerical model that is able to calculate wave heights inside a harbor. It is based on a time-dependent mild slope involving wave refraction, diffraction, shoaling effect, and reflection. In particular, arbitrary reflectivity is used at the boundary in order to simulate the real harbor reflection condition. The proposed numerical model is applied to Samcheon new-harbor in order to investigate harbor calmness.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.28-33
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• 1990

A parabolic model is presented for the effective calculation of refraction-diffraction of regular water while they are propagating on the water of slowly varying sea bed with currents. Parabolic wave equation has been used in the model, which is derived from a mild-slope equation using Pade' approximation. With the corrections of Kirby's (1986) model some numerical experiments were carried out to analyze the model accuracy.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 1999.10a
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• pp.235-242
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• 1999

Wave which propagate from the offshore cause transformation of diffraction, refraction, and reflection etc. in coming in the coastal by depth change. Especially, Wave strongly show the charcateristics of rancom wave in the coastal zone. Developed wave model until a recent date analysed regular waves with height and period equal to those of the significant wave, In case of Monochromatic wave, it can be analysed fine in the offshore, but differ from in coastal zone. In this study, form of governing equation is parabolic mild slope equation. This model calculated random wave for using frequency spectrum and directional spectrum from input data condition of wave. This model is applied to Vincent shoal and compared with laboratory experimental data. The results agreed well with laboratory data.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.18-27
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• 1990

The calmness inside a harbor plays an important role in the appropriate disposition of har-bor structures. However, it is not easy to get the accurate computational results because they are affected by many factors concerning with the wave transformation. Successful solution also depends on determining the boundary values appropriately. This paper presents the numerical model which is able to calculate wave heights inside a harbor It is based upon the time-dependent mild-slope equation involving wave refraction, diffraction, shoaling effect and reflection. In particular, the arbitrary reflectivity is used at the boundary in order to simulate the real harbor reflection condition. This numerical model is applied for Hupo-Harbor and its validities are investgated by comparing with experimental values from the hydraulic model test as well as computational results from Taka-yama's numerical model (1981). It is shown that the model results are in good agreement with results from hydraulic model and Takayama＇s.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.57-65
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• 2007

Shallow water waves are hindcasted from sea wind fields, which include wave transformations such as shoaling, refraction, diffraction, reflection and wave breaking. In case of estimating sea wind field in shallow water, the sea wind revised from free wind obtained by the typhoon model is widely used. However, this method is not able to consider the effect of land topography on the wind field, which will be important factor for shallow water wave forecasting and hindcasting. In this study, therefore, the effect of land topography on sea wind field in shallow water is investigated for shallow water wave forecasting and hindcasting with high accuracy. The 3-D MASCON model is introduced to consider the influence of land topography on the wind field. And, for two areas divided by the topographical characteristics, i.e. shielded and opened coastal areas, sea wind field is examined by comparison between initial wind field by typhoon model and modified wind field by 3-D MASCON model. Finally, applying these sea wind fields to SWAN model, the results of shallow water wave calculated in shielded and opened coastal areas are compared, and, also, the effect of MASCON model on shallow water wave forecasting and hindcasting is discussed.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2014.06a
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• pp.255-257
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• 2014

The harbor tranquility is indicating the level of calmness in the mooring basin of harbor. It relates keenly to berthing/unberthing and cargo handling works but also it is an important indicator to get the minimum water area as the safe refuge. Therefore, it is necessary to analyze in complex the variation of wave height and direction caused by wave refraction, diffraction, shoaling and reflection from the incident waves from outside the harbor. In order to check the calmness inside a harbor, the numerical models are being used currently need fundamental reviews according to the difference of results which depend on their respective features. In this study, hence, it was introduced the validity of numerical models by comparing the computational results for Hupo harbor.