• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.475-483
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• 2005

The ready-made clothes for obese women are not manufactured systematically due to the diversity and scarcity of their body shape. In this study, we first analyzed and classified 104 obese women's body shape to select four representative subjects. Then, the four subjects participated in wearing test to evaluate the performance of the jacket patterns which are available in the market and widely-used at the same time. The characteristics of the jacket patterns for obese women were also investigated. As to the highly rated jacket in terms of body motion, it was found that difference between the breast width to axilla and the breadth to anterior midaxilla is larger than the other jackets, and the breast width of front body is wider than what of back width. It was noted, however, that the armhole depth and the width of obese women' jackets should not be determined indirectly by the magnitude of the girth around bust, waist or hip as in the case of regular sized women's. It is because body proportion of obese women is different from that of standard sized women.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.11
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• pp.1621-1633
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• 2007

The purpose of this research was to evaluate the size fitness of ready-made jacket and their demands through the survey of the middle aged women, and having them try on the jackets, and present the basic data on the ways to increase the fitness by better size controls. The jackets, that were modified and improved through the experiment of the women with triangle-figure in their 50s, were compared and evaluated. The experiment showed a difference in the appearance and the motional function. The triangle-figure had the lowest fitness, thus most uncomfortable. The triangle-figure is characterized by the large waist, leaving small space between body and clothes. This creates the wrinkles in bust or waist area, making it uncomfortable to move. The jacket, that was produced by modifying these problem areas and developing research pattern, showed a good results on the appearances and function.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.8 s.145
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• pp.1114-1124
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• 2005

The purpose of the paper is to find the elements of jacket pattern far the obese women who went to slenderize their shape by optical illusion. Representative four subjects participated in wear tests. Subjective evaluation of the visual appearance we collected and, at the same time, 3D clothing air volume was observed for the four types of experimental jackets. As results it was found that narrower shoulder width, back upper width, and front waist width resulted in slender look, however, back abdomen width and front shoulder length induced more slender appearance in waist area. The result of the distance between clothing and skin measured by 3D scanner clearly demonstrated the distribution of ease due to the elements of pattern, which is useful to find the pattern variables responsible for the slender appearance of the obese women.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.105-115
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• 2008

Men's outer wear, such as jackets and coats appeared since the 16th century. They have been changed from doublets, coats, justaucorps, tail-coats, frock coats and morning coats to contemporary men's suits. Since the early 17th century, sleeve patterns of men's outer jackets had been mostly two-pieces close fitted patterns. The purpose of this article is to compare sleeve patterns of various jackets, which appear in various historic costume books. Armhole measurements, sleeve head measurements, amounts of ease, armhole depths, armhole widths, crown heights, sleeve width and sleeve angle had been compared to find out the differences among patterns of different times and styles. Coming to the present, the difference between top sleeve and under sleeve became more obvious, and the sleeve angle became less curvy. Another interesting point is that there had been considerable amounts of ease, which is the difference between sleeve head measurements and corresponding armhole measurements. It is because the sleeve has been attached to the armhole not by seam but by string. It is believed that the present sleeves have more natural curve and shape compared to the past.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.143-154
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• 2021

This study attempted to develop winter jackets and pants patterns reflecting the latest comfortable and active school uniform trends, using middle school boy avatars having various body shapes. Jacket and pants pattern-drawing methods and margins differed. Based on the results, research prototypes were prepared. Then, virtual wear prospective drawings, clothing pressure, and appearance were assessed according to body shape. Jackets were assessed using 25 factors, while pants were assessed using 19. Then, correlations between the jackets and pants were analyzed. According to the analysis, the reason why the dart & tuck position and margin were rated low was confirmed. In a virtual wear assessment on jacket patterns by body shape, a significant difference was found in all categories, except for fit and shape at the front bottom, sleeve length on the side, and the center back line. The virtual wear assessment on the pants patterns by body shape also revealed a significant difference in all categories, except for pants length. In jackets, a significant influence was observed around the shoulders and waist in Type 1 and around the belly in Type 2. On the contrary, for pants, a significant influence was found around the hip and waist in Type 1 and around back crotch in Type 2. Therefore, they should be considered when making of jackets and pants. The above results suggested that jacket and pants patterns should vary depending on body shape. It is anticipated that there should be further studies comparing brand-name school uniforms for middle school girls and school uniforms by body shape.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.2 s.67
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• pp.299-310
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to develop wool knitted Jacket pattern suited for Middle-aged women's body shape. The usable data of first and second wearing test were coded for further statistical analysis including descriptive statistics(frequency and one way- ANOVA test, Student-Newman-Keuls Multiple Range Test) by using SPSSWIN 12.0. The results were as follows: 1. It was found that first evaluation for the appearance test on fitness, pattern B were better than the rest of them. 2. It was found that second evaluation for the test, jacket B with milano were better than the rest of them. Therefore, it should be designed as possible as considering the physical characteristics of knitted materials. 3. It was found that third evaluation for the test, it is necessary that knitted jacket follow a similar size tolerance such as a woven jacket.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.183-194
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• 2013

In recent years, intense cold spells caused by climate change have encouraged an increasing number of people to wear a variety of padded jackets. In this context, this paper aims to address the production of padded jackets in casual brands and to develop basic patterns for well-fitted padded jackets targeted toward women in their 20s. The study centered on the production of padded jackets from 13 apparel companies. In addition, three sample jackets were created with 3oz. fill in the body and 2oz. fill in the sleeves, and they were subjected to a wearing test to determine their movement functionality. The research findings were as follows. Woven jackets constituted 53.4% of the winter jackets produced by casual brands; padded jackets accounted for 25.3%, leather jackets 12.6%, and other jackets 8.7%. Thus, data showed that padded jackets accounted for a considerable proportion of overall winter jacket production. Based on the wearing test results, the basic measurements of a padded jacket for women in their 20s were as follows: bust girth of B/4+3cm front length and B/4+3.5cm back length; waist girth of W/4+3.1 cm front length and W/4+1.9cm back length; and hip girth of H/4+3.3cm front length and H/4+2.8cm back length. The jacket length was set at 62.8cm, with a 63.8cm sleeve length. This study concluded that providing padded jacket manufacturers with basic pattern designs for a well-fitted jacket is expected to boost the efficiency of pattern design processes and the production of padded jackets.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.52-59
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• 2012

Recently, LEDs are used in various fields such as lightings, billboards, displays, and so on. In this paper, we tried to combine a costume with LEDs in a performance environment. To meet the environmental requirements, we propose a digital costume platform which consists of wireless network, an embedded system, a control jacket, a digital skin, and a pattern authoring tool. It is utilized for making a digital costume with LED lighting effects. The embedded system controls LED lighting according to the signals from a show control system through wireless networks. The control jacket can carry the embedded system and connect it with LEDs. The digital skin means a costume with LEDs. The LEDs were designed to fit in performance concept in point of aesthetic. The pattern authoring tool enables users to make timeline-based changing patterns of LED lighting. The proposed platform is a new lighting element in performances. It can expand stage representation techniques and be used as a special effect. It will play a role as a moving light in performances. We evaluated stable operations of our platform by employing it in live performances.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.835-845
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• 2015

This study aims to suggest the proper ease for slim-fit jackets according to the number of buttons from a one-button jacket to four-button jackets for men in their 30's. The researchers carried out both an appearance evaluation and movement functionality evaluation. The results are as follows: When conducting the appearance evaluations, meaningful differences were found. The one-button jacket showed high scores for the 7.5 cm ease. The two-button jacket and the three-button jacket showed high scores for the 10.5 cm ease. The four-button jacket showed a high score for the 13.5 cm ease. Next, the results of the movement functionality evaluation showed the same trend; as the ease was increased from 7.5 cm to 13.5 cm, the scores increased. This is because if the garments offer more ease, this gives room for actions. Additionally, it showed that if there were fewer jacket buttons, then the results showed a high score. The researchers believe that if the number of jacket buttons is lower, then the area of the V-zone increases, so that there is more room for movement. The study suggests a proper chest ease of 7.5 cm for the one-button jacket, 10.5 cm for the two-button jacket and three-button jacket, and 13.5 cm for the four-button jacket, respectively.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.1-13
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• 2014

This study investigated body type among women in their 20s and the development of prototypes for tailored jackets by body type in order to design clothes in consideration of an imbalance in body type caused by the popularity of portable devices such as smartphones and Netbooks. This study aims to create a design of jacket patterns by body type through both actual and virtual wear testing among women in their 20s, who are the major consumer of ready-made clothes and are very sensitive to size fit. This study will provide pattern information for the manufacture of jackets with a goal of securing the latest scientific body type information and establish the grounds for a research method in the manufacture of clothes. According to actual and virtual wear tests of four different body types, a significant difference was found in armhole circumference in most types because it was scanned with the arms slightly apart to prevent the armhole area from being missed during the 3D scanning. This has resulted in a slight distortion in measurements. To correct this problem, it is necessary to verify the precision of the body scanner and its program. In categories in which a large significant difference was found, it is necessary to test them against many subjects. In addition, it would be required to perform a further study on the 3D virtual wear system, which could be useful in the clothing industry.