• 복식
• /
• 제60권2호
• /
• pp.35-50
• /
• 2010

In this dissertation, the analysis of the study of female customs from late Joseon Dynasty and their genre painting to research humors and its aesthetic senses in that certain era. The purpose of the genre paintings is to look at general populations in an objective point of view and endeavor better value of public life style to embody clear understandings of humanity. The artists such as Hong-Do Kim and Youn-Bok Shin expressed their arts based on reasonable reality with sarcastic but humorous and creative ways to criticize the society's problems with clear statements. Therefore, the formative characters are realism, exaggeration and coloring of the whole arts that represents as innovative and original genre of it's time. Hong-Do Kim and Youn-Bok Shin expressed the women in society as open minded with versatile and refined looks in their paintings as the reality was repressed and closed mind for women figures in late Joseon Dynasty. The female customs in the paintings has both suppression and expression in their dresses and exaggerated shapes of accessories and the use of color were also found. All of these elements has the aesthetic values of satirized eroticism, the hint of next evolution of the late Joseon Era under the conservative disposition of social characters and freedom of expression of playfulness. These elements were new developments and a step forward of female 'sex' and expression of satirized eroticism. The exaggerated and distorted forms and accessories demonstrates unbalanced and asymmetrical elements in humorous characters and they include spontaneity. Also, using the five traditional color schemes of Korean art displays humor in playfulness of an art with splendid and purity, duality of positiveness and artless, smart and elegance looks.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
• /
• 제13권2호
• /
• pp.157-174
• /
• 2013

시판되는 전통복식을 착용한 패션인형의 경우 서구적 얼굴이 주를 이루어 한복과 조화를 이루지 못하고 있다. 본 연구는 전통 패션인형에 적합한 얼굴을 개발하여 현대인들의 컬렉션으로써 전통 패션인형의 위상을 재정립하고자 문헌조사, 사례조사, 소비자 설문조사를 실시하고 이 결과를 토대로 얼굴을 디자인하였다. 전통복식을 착용한 패션인형의 얼굴형은 청순한 역삼각형이 많이 나타났으나 선호된 얼굴형은 역삼각형과 타원형이었고 이목구비는 자연스러운 조화를 이루는 세련된 느낌을 선호하였다. 전통 미인 얼굴은 타원형 얼굴형, 쌍꺼풀이 없거나 속 쌍꺼풀의 긴 눈, 도톰한 입, 코끝이 둥글고 오똑한 코를 선호하였다. 이상의 결과를 조합하여 볼을 약간 살린 역삼각형 얼굴형, 큰 눈과 눈동자를 축소하고 속눈썹 길이를 줄인 눈, 코끝이 들리지 않은 둥근 코, 폭이 작고 아랫입술이 도톰한 단정한 입으로 얼굴을 디자인하였다. 개발된 전통 패션인형 얼굴은 국내외 패션인형 마니아의 욕구에 부합하는 문화상품이 될 것이다.

• 복식
• /
• 제52권8호
• /
• pp.41-54
• /
• 2002

This study discusses the beauty of the ideal body shown by fashion communication media, and explains how aesthetic aspects of, the body are being expressed in contemporary fashion. The beauty of the body may be considered as the beauty of sexual, controllable or consumable object. First. the most vigorously discussed point about the body is its sexual aspect, the most outstanding of which is the voluptuous and the androgynous beauty in contemporary fashion. Second, the body is an object which has been oppressed or controlled under the name of history. morality. and rationality. The things making us regard the body itself as an aesthetic object may be considered as dynamic and functional beauty Third, the sexual instinct and the body are fetishized as consumer goods, and women's bodies are presented as comsumer objects whose most parts could be restored to exchangeable value. The consumable beauty presented in contemporary fashion is the conspicuous beauty and the decadent beauty. So far, the various aspects of the beautiful body has been considered, based on the beauty of the ideal body shown by the fashion communication media. Man exists through on his body. but it is the embodied and formed body that serves as a means to manifest his social status and cultural ties. A natural body is reformed as a cultural phenomenon in various artificial ways. Popular culture has transmitted a series of new body image by creating and reproducing symbols and images, and has made the ideal body. Now there is not only one standard for the ideal beauty in our society. The standard of the beauty has changed continuously. There has been an aesthetic sense which can represent the times during the process of those changes. The various communication media have played a role of mirror reflecting those changes. The ideal body in contemporary times is no more an abstract media to express classical beauty, but an object directly affecting us, who are living in the crisis of subjectivity and identity.

• 복식
• /
• 제56권6호
• /
• pp.114-131
• /
• 2006

An Asian Ethnic Look is based on its own values of traditional costumes and the fashion accessories that are influenced by its own genre within their own culture. In this thesis, it contemplates the study of visual values and the traditional influences of the Modern Western Designers and Asian Designers' definitions and the considerations of an Ethnic look in the countries like Middle East, India, Korea, China and Japan. The standard procedure to understand their Visual and Aesthetic values is acknowledgement of body. From that foundation, an Asian Ethnic Look and its Visual and Aesthetic Values were researched through out the Middle East Asian Look, Indian Look, Korean Look, Chinese Look and Japanese Look which effective after 1990's. The studies are further researched to the comparisons and interpretations of the Western Designers and the Asian Designers, and the definitions of an Asian Ethnic Look and its Visual and Aesthetic Values in between those. According to each country's religious attitudes, a beauty of concealment and a beauty of negative space appeal which emphasize an ethics on humanity and non-materialistic attitudes. It takes meanings of a phenomenon of nature's worship, Yin-Yang five elements of principles, oneness of body-mind and oneness of universe-mankind. Following the studies of Visual and Aesthetic Values of an Asian Ethnic Look, in 1990's Western Designers' interpretations were prominent use of the Asian Traditional Motif3. However, the interpretations of the Asian Designers were based on their own traditional ethics and they minimized decorative elements but enhanced naturalism, feminism, calm and sober designs compare to the past. The Asian Designers' interpretations of their visual values were based on their Asian mentality, beauty and its straightforward genuine perspective and respects of their own culture.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 한국복식학회 2001년도 춘계학술대회
• /
• pp.42-43
• /
• 2001

색상특성은 각 계열별로 차이가 있었으나 전반적 으로 고명도.저채도 중심으로 황색계열과 청색계열 은 고명도 위주의 분포특성을 보였다. 이어 반하여 적색계열은 비교적 색조의 영역이 넓었으며 고채도 의 분포특성이 두드러졌다. 자색계열은 저명도.중 채도, 녹색계열은 고명도.저채도 중심이었다. 남.녀복의 색조유형으로서 여복에서는 white보다는 tone 중심의 색조특성이 나타났으며. 남복에서는 white를 제외한 tint의 색조유형이 많았다. 이는 당시대인의 백색지향 의식을 대변하는 것으로 사료된다. 음양오행론의 배색원리에 의해 검토한 결과 여복 은 상생이 남복보다 낮게 집계되었으며, 반대로 파버 비렌의 색채조화의 배색원리에 의한 검토 철과는 남 복보다 여복의 적용수치가 높았다. 이것은 감각적인 색채조화 보다는 의례적인 성향이 좀 더 징한 남복이 서구의 색채조화의 척도에 적합하지 않은 결과로 추측된다. 전통복의 배색특성은 남녀가 매우 다른 양상을 보 이고 있었다. 여복의 기본 복식구조인 저고리/치마 는 백/청색계열, 백/황색계열과의 배색이 중심으로서 면적대비 및 명도대비에 의한 조화가 이루어지고 있었다. 반면에 저고리의 배색은 유채색과 백색계열 의 배색으로 채도대비의 성향이 강했다. 남복은 황/백색계열. 백/청색계열로 명도의 차가 크지 않았다. 포/띠의 의복 구성에 있어서는 흑색 또 는 적.자색 등의 세조대(細條帶)로 인해 채도대비, 면적대비, 명도대비의 배색효과를 찾아볼 수 있었다. 이상과 같은 분석결과를 통한 한국인의 색사용의 특정은 복식의 전면에 등장하는 백색지향과 음양오 행설을 그 배경으로 하고 있다. 백색위주의 색사용은 인공미가 배제된 자연미의 추구에 기인한 것으로 토착화된 한국의 색으로 볼 수 있다. 백색은 여러 색을 통합하고 배색된 색채착화된 한국의 색으로 볼 수 있다. 백색은 여러 색을 통합하고 배색된 색채들을 담하게 만드는 것이 특징 으로 한국전통 복식의 배색특성을 주도하고 있었다. 마지막으로 본 연구는 회화자료를 근거한 것으로 풍속화의 변색 및 탈색에 의해 당시대의 정확한 색채규명이 어려우며, 실물작품이 아닌 도판을 통한 측 색으로 색의 오차가 발생할 수 있음을 연구의 한계 점으로 언급하고자 한다.

• 복식
• /
• 제62권2호
• /
• pp.26-39
• /
• 2012

This study intends to reconsider pleat, which was undermined as something too simple to express the details for women's costume, by focusing on the aesthetic value of plea in men's costumes in the west before the 20th century. Furthermore, based on the aesthetic value of the pleat, diverse studies on contemporary men's costumes shall help to attempt to set up a basis for the new mode of men's costume. The pleat, a component in the costume since the ancient times, had unique characteristics including functionality, a sense of volume, directing effect that is caused by line repetitions and formativeness that results through elasticity. First, the aesthetics of the pleat before the 20th century shows rhythmic sense through the repetition of the pleat line as shown in the drape type costume, and it also shows a sense of volume as the pleat is moved along the motion of the body. Second, it shows functionality as the expansion of space moves in accordance with the motion of body sets up an internal space of the costume that facilitates body motion. Third, the pleat extends two dimension space into three dimension space using its elasticity. It exaggerates specific parts of the costume while ignoring body shape in order to symbolize status and authority of men. Fourth, it unifies the costume by wrapping the body by using quadrangle cloths with drapers, and expanding the silhouette with the pleat artificially to conceal the physical character and personality of the wearer. The physical character of the wearer disappears into the space made by the pleat. The pleat reveals the voluptuous beauty within.

• 복식
• /
• 제23권
• /
• pp.211-223
• /
• 1994

It was aimed to study the costume of Koryo dynasty based upon the one hundred and ten pictures of the writtened Budist scripture. The costume to study were made about 400 years during the King Mok-jong(1006) to the first year of the king Kong-yang based upon the Avatamaka Sutra and the Sutra of the Lotus. 가) Men's wear : 1. Hair style and hair dress : 1) Man bored a hair and put on the hat such as a Kuan, Kun, and Mo. The young boys binds his hair up one, two, and three knots, and tied up with a hair ribbon. A kinds of hats were Tung-t'ien-kuan(Yuan-yu-kuan) and Chin-hien-kuan and as a court dress. The man wore pok-여 as an official uniform and wore a pok-du , kun-mo as an everyday dress and wore a helmet as a solidier's uniform. 2. Clothes : 1) They wore Yuan-yu-kuan and Chin-hien -kuan as a court dress, and wore belt, boots, pleated decorated ling skirt also. They wore round shape collor big sleeve jacket, small sleeve long coat, belt , boots as an official dress. 2) the soldiers wore helmet, scarf, yangdang-kap , hung-kap, bak-kap, we-yo-kap, kun-kap and jok-kap and carries arms. 3) The young boys bind his hair up one, two and three angle shape an tied up a hair ribbons. 나) Women's wear : 1. Hair Style and hair dress : high rank ladies made their hair top knot (one, two, or more knots) and tied with hair ribbons , and decorated with precious stone, pan shape head dress , wheel shape head dress. 2. Clothes ; 1) high rank ladie's wore kun -kyun attached jacket , and jacket sleeves decorated pleats and pleats decorated on skirt, apron, back apron, knot belt, scarf.

• 대순사상논총
• /
• 제16권
• /
• pp.217-226
• /
• 2003

당시(唐詩)에는 당나라 사람들의 생활상이 많이 반영되고 있으며, 이러한 기록들은 많은 부분에 있어서 역사서적의 내용과 일치하기도 한다. 그러므로 우리는 당시를 통하여 당나라의 제도 뿐만 아니라 당나라 사람들의 생활도 광범위하게 이해할 수 있다. 본 고에서 우리는 당시에서 언급되고 있는 당나라 사람들의 복식에 있어서 몇 가지 문제들을 간략히 서술하기로 한다. 당대 초기에는 수나라 복제를 따랐으나, 태종(太宗)과 고종(高宗)을 거치면서 품급에 따라 복색을 구체적으로 구분하였으며, 여자들도 남편의 복색을 따랐다. 황색을 황제의 복색으로 한 것은 고종 총장 원년(668)에 시작되었다. 고종 상원(上元) 원년(674)에는 또 관원의 품급에 따라 색깔의 짙고 옅음을 엄격히 구분하였을 뿐만 아니라 요대의 장식물 재료에도 상세한 규정을 함으로써 신분의 차이를 더욱 구체적으로 구분하였다. 관복의 색깔로 등급의 차이를 구별한 외에도 5품 이상의 관원에게는 어부(魚符)를 담는 어대(魚袋)를 차고 다니게 함으로써 귀천을 분별하였고, 조정의 부름에 응하는 부신(符信)으로 삼았다. 어부는 물고기 모양으로 관등에 따라 금(金)·은(銀)·동(銅)으로 만들어 몸에 지니고 다녔다. 관원들은 갓의 모양으로도 귀천을 구분하였다. 귀족을 갓을 썼으나 평민은 쓰지 못하였고, 문관과 무관도 갓을 각기 달리하였다. 당시에는 또 여자들의 복식과 관련한 묘사도 상당히 보인다. 당나라 때의 여자들은 한(漢)나라 진(晋)나라 때와 마찬가지로 일반적으로 윗옷과 치마를 입었다. 치마는 가슴에서 동여매었고, 그 길이도 매우 길어 땅에 3촌(寸)까지 끌렸다. 여자들은 대개 상의(上衣) 밖에 이른바 반비(半臂)라는 반소매의 옷을 입었다. 본래는 궁녀들이 일하기 편리한 복장으로 입었는데, 후에 점차 여자들의 평상복이 되었다. 여자들의 눈썹과 머리형에 관해서도 당시에는 많이 묘사되고 있다. 여자들의 머리장식과 화장 그리고 몸의 각종 장식구에 대해서도 당시에는 상당히 언급되고 있다. 당나라 여자들의 복식에 있어서 가장 큰 특징은 국내 소수민족 및 외국의 복식에 영향을 받아 "호복(胡服)"을 즐겨 입었다는 점이다. 이른바 "호복"은 서역만을 가리키는 것이 아니라 주변국들의 복장도 가리킨다. 여자들이 쓰는 모자와 신발에도 많은 변화가 생겼다. 당나라 중원지역에는 "만화(蠻靴)"를 신는 여자들이 생겨났으며, 이것은 호복의 하나로 호화(胡靴)라고 칭하기도 하였다. 여자들의 미와 상대적인 자유에 대한 추구는 당시에 강렬히 나타나고 있으며, 이것은 당나라 여자들의 사상이 점차로 개방화되고 있음을 시사해 준다. 이러한 개방의 과정은 당나라 사회의 개방과 사상문화의 교류·진보와 밀접히 관련하는 것이다. 그래서 당나라 사람들의 복식에 대한 당시의 묘사는 우리가 당나라 사회와 사람들의 생활을 이해하는데 중요한 단서가 되고 있다고 말할 수 있다.

• 복식
• /
• 제41권
• /
• pp.5-21
• /
• 1998

This study aims to show how tradition and modernity has interacted to produce the aesthetic consciousness of body and dress in contemporary Korea. For this purpose, documentary studies were proceeded. And photos of the modern Korean dress from 1980 to 1997 were analyzed. The results are as follows: First, the body form was studied in terms of exposure and concealment of the physical body parts and the perception of body was classified into two categories, the abstract and the realistic. And the dress form was studied in silhouette and the perception of dress was assorted as body priority and clothes priority. Second, the aesthetic values of body were categorized to divinity, humanity and sexuality. And the aesthetic values of dress were defined in relation to the aesthetic values of body as ascetic beauty, pure beauty, natural beauty and erotic beauty. Third, while the traditional Korean costume (Hanbok) pursues the aesthetic values of divinity and humanity of human body and ascetic beauty, pure beauty and natural beauty on the aesthetic values of humanity of human body and the pure beauty and natural beauty of dress. The contemporary Korean fashion expresses the aesthetic values of divinity, humanity and sexuality of human body and the aesthetic values of ascetic beauty, pure beauty, natural beauty and erotic beauty of dress. In conclusion, the emphasis of sexuality of body and erotic beauty of dress in the modern Korean dress can be interpreted as the change of the aesthetic consciousness of body and dress in contemporary Korean by the influence of the western modernity.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제13권3호
• /
• pp.425-438
• /
• 2005

This study is to examine the types of expression and aesthetic characteristics of on-line game characters by analyzing those game characters' body and their costume that appear in various domestic on-line game sites. It is shown in this study that types of the human bodies and costume expressed through the game characters are grouped into five categories such as exposure and tightness, enlargement and exaggeration, curtailment and simplification, gender stereotype and unification. Furthermore, there are four typical aesthetic characteristics resulting from those types of expressions; First, 'grotesque' is expressed in the form of extreme enlargement and exaggeration, extreme exposure and concealment, combined images among human, animal or machine, or monstrous devilish images. Second, in an effort to express 'eroticism', bodies are directly exposed, see-through costumes are used in order to emphasize the body lines or very tight designs are used. Third, 'futuristic' characteristics are shown through geometrical shape and silhouette, machine-like details, strong artificial colors or glossy hi-tech material. Lastly, 'pastiche' is expressed with reconciliation of variety of costumes of game characters. Various opposite or heterogeneous styles are combined or harmonized each other to show pastiche, of which examples are male and female, superior culture and inferior one, rich and poor, oriental and western, human and machine, human and nature or past and future, etc.