• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.23
• /
• pp.99-110
• /
• 1994

The purpose of this study was to develop the pattern drafting method which would be suitable for their physical characteristics for the fatty body of Korean elementary school boys who re more than 1.5 Rhrer's Index. The procedures of the study were as follows : We have surveyed the rate of fatty children who were more than 1.5 Rhrer's Index on 2, 185's and elementary school children. The result of research showed the rate of fatty boys in 9-11 years-old were the highest one. Therefore, body measurement and statistical analysis. 203's boys between the ages of 9-11 and over 1.5Rhrer's Index were measured on 25 items. Descriptives, correlation and factor analysis were computed. Fatty boys higher than standard boys, and bigger than grith and width items. 4 type of conventional pants pattern were collected . The most accepted conventional pants pattern was decided through wearing test. The new pattern was based on the most accepted conventional pattern, and developed through wearing test. After new pattern drafting , the sensory evaluation for appearance and comfort was applied to evaluate the new pattern by comparing it with the conventional pattern. The result of sensory evaluation , it was found that the new pattern was more suitable then the conventional pattern.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.16 no.6
• /
• pp.961-970
• /
• 2014

Several retailers such as Target and Kohle's and their vendors have piloting the 3D clothing simulation programs to produce garment samples. However, few studies have verified the virtual fit information and 3d visualization process for pants, and no study compared the commercial 3D virtual programs. This study is designed to analyze similarity of fit and appearance between real pants with 3D virtual pants based on three 3D virtual programs (Optitex, CLO 3D, and i-Designer), three lower body types (slim, normal, and thick waist type), and fit status. We selected a representative model for each lower body type, produced their custom pants according to Lee and Nam's method(2007), and took photos of front, side and back view for visual analysis. Then, we virtually tried each model's custom pants on her parametric avatar developed by manually inputting their body measurements using the three 3D virtual program. Thirty fit experts compared the real fit to virtual fit. This study found that 'Optitex' and 'i-Designer' can visualize more effectively than 'CLO 3D' in many fit locations. Regarding the body types, 3D virtual program can visualize pants fit for 'thick waist body type' more preciously than the other body types. With respect to fit status, it does not affect much on the similarity overall.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.59 no.1
• /
• pp.159-167
• /
• 2009

Based on instructions in the textbook "How to Construct Korean Costumes" which I authored, my university students were required to make Pungcha-Baji(Korean traditional pants for children) for one-year-old boys. While examining the students' construction, I found that the side seams of the vest and pants did not line up but were improperly twisted. It was found that the pants did not cover the child's backside because the width of the back was smaller than the width of the front when one of the side panels and the large center panel in the front was half the size of the hip and one of the side panels and the small panel in the back was four fifths of half the size of the hip. Although there were differences between the waist size of the pants and the bottom hem of the vest, the textbooks instruct that the amount of material and the number of pleats(i.e. 4 pleats) on the pants and the vest should be the same. Finding this mistake led me to investigate Pungcha-Baji construction in related textbooks. Thus with the textbook instruction, the side seams of the pants and the vest do not match and are improperly twisted. Hence, as a solution, the pleats should be made and adjusted after matching the side seams of the pants and the vest. The purpose of this study is to examine currently available Pungcha-Baji related textbooks and determine the correctness of their instructions and to ultimately provide correct construction methods for Pungcha-Baji pattern for academic purposes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.13 no.2 s.30
• /
• pp.146-154
• /
• 1989

The purpose of this study was to develop a computer program for pattern making of man's Korean traditional trousers (Hanbok Baji). The IBM-PC/AT Computer was used in this study. The procedures of the study were as follows. 1. Basic pattern of Hanbok Baji was selected. 2. Co-ordinate points were instituted for indicate of relative location of all necessary points in drafting. 3. A program for drafting was developed. 4. The pattern of Baji for man's Hanbok was automatically design by inputting individual body measurement (trouser length and hip girth). 5. Grading of standard size was accomplished by using same method.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.22 no.2
• /
• pp.185-192
• /
• 1998

The methodology of applying fabric stretch ratio in the grants pattern drafting was evaluated. The experimental fabrics employed in this study were 3 different knit fabrics with various stretch ratio in vertical or horizontal direction. The firm fitting pants pattern was modified by applying the fabric stretch ratio in vertical ana horizontal direction. The computer automatic drafting method was used for pants pattenl alteration. The suitability of the altered pattern was evaluated by the 7 clothing specialists, The results showed that fit of all experimental garments was improved in general. The garment which was constructed with the fabric having large difference between horizontal stretch ratio and vertical stretch ratio showed poor fit at crotch area. This result implies that computer aided pattern alteration is not appropriate when fabric stretch ratio is vary by the fabric directions.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.20 no.3
• /
• pp.25-34
• /
• 1982

The manufacture of children's wear is another part of the giant industry. However, the production of children's wear remains a small factory operation without scientific study. This study is aimed at establishing the normal sizes for slacks pattern making of 6∼8 years old children. The sample were classified into 5 groups of stature. The findings are as follows: 1) In analysis of stature group 110∼115cm to 130∼135cm there were almost significant differences of the mean values of all items. Comparison of physique shows even variation between stature group. 2) The correlation among all the parts of the body is strong in the case of the Stature. 3) The result of regression analysis is as follows. In slacks pattern making Back Waist Height and Slacks Length were exactly determined by Stature. Waist to Knee were exactly determined by Slacks Length.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.14 no.4
• /
• pp.132-145
• /
• 2010

These days, the aging population is becoming a critical social issue; the activation of the silver industry for the Y-O generation, meaning the young-old group of aged 55-64, is accelerating now. Pants are very important item to this generation, since they pursue active life with an exercise and leisure activities. Therefore, the physical, psychological, and social characters as well as the changed life style of women in the Y-O generation were reviewed, based on former studies and books. The consumer's patterns and actual wearing conditions about slacks were researched and analyzed through the survey toward 300 women aged 55-65 living in Seoul. Based on this research, information was provided for the development of slacks pattern which is suitable to the deformed body and aesthetic consciousness of the Y-O generation.

• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
• /
• v.21 no.3
• /
• pp.59-79
• /
• 2002

The purposes of the study were to present the optimum slacks pattern for elementary school girls and to compare and evaluate wearing ease of the slacks. 3D scans using the Cyberware PS motion platform were carried out for 3 subjects who have different body type. The automatic drafting method was programmed by AutoLISP in CAD. Wearing tests using 3D Scanner was done for evaluation of fitness of slacks. Regression analysis, analysis of variance and post-hoc test were performed for statistical analysis of the data by SPSS program. The procedure and results were as follows: The slacks construction components for pattern drafting were derived from 10 horizontal section maps obtained from 3D scans. The automatic drafting was based on the measurements of slacks construction components and the curve of crotch line. The crotch line was drafted using of the arc function in AutoCAD. The total crotch length was calculated using the multiple regression equation. Wearing test represented that the slacks pattern developed to accomodate individual body measurements was estimated more highly than existing patterns.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.15
• /
• pp.21-45
• /
• 1990

The purpose of this thesis is to study the method of the reasonable pattern design. The studying method is based on the original principle of the trousers' cutting and I have a hypothesis about the trousers pattern which should be proved. When I selected the practical method, I made use of the international measuring rule, graph paper and tracing paper, in order to prove the new pattern design. The reasonable pattern design should be the one of the suitable original principles to be suited in the design through any measurement. Therefore, I have discussed the above mentioned design. I find out the conclusion to prove the hypothesis of pattern design with the experimental measure after showing the above mentiond design. The characteristics is as follows. First : To be convinient when walking, because of little degree as folding of the front part of trousers with the under-angle. Second : To be suitable in proportion to the length of trousers and the under-angle. Third ; When folding the center line of the Sapok (a name of one of the trousers parts), the length of the Sapoks is same and harmonized with the Sapoks because of the same angle of both Sapoks in any case of the measurement. Fourth : No correction of the lines when dressing, for the same points of the large Sapok and the small one. Fifth : To be easiness of the pattern design through the concrete measurement. I could find out a little extent errors of pattern showings, an easiness of dressing, scientification of formation in Korean trousers and standard of the practical measurement in the program to be presented as the result of studying.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.27 no.1
• /
• pp.143-153
• /
• 2003

This study was conducted in order to provide basic study material for children's garment design. The subjects of this study are fifth and sixth grade elementary school girls, who demonstrate rapid growth and the differences among individual somatic types are apparent. Their bodies are studied, categorized into patterns and the characteristics are examined. 1 The increase of height and length measurements according to age increase are much larger than that of breadth, depth and girth menasurments. 2. Eight factors are drawn upon factor analysis and the rate of factors comprisedare 78.68%. 3. The shapes of lower body of higher grades girls in elementary school are classified into three categories. The first type is slender in lower body and the second type is more contoured around waist area with longer length and higher height than the average elementary school girls. The third type is heavy in the lower body. 4. Eighteen items important for somatic categorization are selected through stepwise discriminant analysis and the exactitude rate of these items is 93.3%.