• 복식
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• 제58권8호
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• pp.120-136
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• 2008

This study examined sewing methods used to reinforce the opening of clothes of the Joseon period. Through the analysis of a total of 117 clothing items of the Joseon period, the following results were obtained. 1. Most costumes of the Joseon period had the opening. The purpose of the opening was to allow one to put on and take off a costume, act comfortably, and turn a costume Inside out. The opening was located on the Side, Conte. Back, fgwi(Side opening of pants), Wristband, Armhole, and Godae(the bark part of the collar). 2. As the opening tended to get easily worn out, it was often reinforced. The 1911owing three methods were used to reinforce the opening of clothing items of the Joseon period: a method to attach a cloth such as Dang, Binding, and Badae; a method using a variety of knots; and a method by sewing stitches such as a sort of cross stitch called Satteugi, Prick stitch, and Loop. 3. The most frequently used reinforcing method was the one that used a knot(34 items), followed by the one by sewing Satteugi(27 items), and the one using Dang(25items). The most frequently detected location of the opening was Side(59 items), followed by Agui(37 items), Wristband(19 items), and Center Back(13 items). 4. The reinforced opening made a costume more endurable and elastic, decorative and neat.

• 복식
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• 제62권7호
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• pp.54-66
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• 2012

This research analyzes the late Joseon's variously developed characteristics of women's underwear and its formative elements, and ultimately aims to apply such characteristics to designing modern outfits. The main purpose of the presented work is to give guidelines on utilizing the fashion legacy in a various way, and inheriting the traditional concept of beauty by developing it into modern fashion designs. The designing and producing of the work is based on the analysis of previous researches, genre paintings, and traditional costumes in museums. Based on this research, the application of traditional underwear design to today's outfits involves the following points. First, the presented work features the formative outlines of traditional underwear as an inspiration for outer garments. Secondly, various traditional textiles are used such as ramie fabrics, damask silk, silk fabrics, fur, etc. for four seasons and they are turned to practical use for modern outfits. Third, colors of choice are white and low saturation colors to create an elegant and serene atmosphere. Finally, traditional sewing techniques are specifically applied to modern fashion designs. Included are: Nubim technique, Gob-sol technique, and the patching method. This work pursues the design of practical use by tying up clothes with straps and knots to prevent them from falling off.

• 복식
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• 제59권3호
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• pp.82-95
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• 2009

The kind and the use of the fabrics for crown manufacture in the Baekje period has been studied by characterizing the imprinted fabrics on the crowns and the diadem ornaments from the old tomb. The contact region with the skin inside of the crown and the region between the bark of white birch and the gilt bronze openwork plates contained fabrics. The fabrics used in the gilt-bronze crown were all plain weave silk except that of Yongwonri tomb where loosely woven thin tabby was used. There have been 4-types of iron framed diadem of the Baekje, which comprise the inverted triangle-shaped diadem only with iron frame, the diadem with gold plate ornament in the iron frame, the diadem decorated with mica plate and gold plate, and the diadem with silver ornament in the iron frame. The fabrics used in the triangle shaped iron frame diadem include plain weave silk, irregular plain woven silk, thin tabby, complex silk gauze, twill weave on plain ground, and warp-faced compound weave. The iron frames were wrapped with the fabrics from one layer up to three layers, and the iron diadem was covered with one later of loosely woven textile such as irregular plain woven silk, thin tabby, and complex silk gauze. But in case of decorating the iron diadem with gold Plate ornaments, multiple layers of fabric were used to sustain the weight of the ornaments. The fabrics in the iron diadem frame were sewed with running stitch, overedge stitch or hemming stitch, diagonal hemming stitch, half back stitch), and overcast stitch.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.105-116
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• 2021

Pillows are tools that humans have used for a long time to sleep or lie down and rest. It is bedding, and the oldest literature dealing with it is Volume 29 of 'GoryeoDogyeong', which describes embroidered pillows. The oldest relic is the queen's pillow (National Treasure No. 164) excavated from the tomb of King Muryeong, and is in the Gongju National Museum. This study attempts to investigate and reproduce the materials used in traditional pillows Yukgol pillows and pine nut pillows designs are based on literature and artifacts from the Joseon period to modern times. Regarding the research method, after reviewing literature and the relics of traditional pillows, the process of reproducing the traditional Yukgol pillow and the pine nut pillow production method were explained step by step. This study found the plain attitudes in the lives of people who used materials that could be easily gained from their daily lives in rural communities oriented to rice farming never recklessly threw out any piece of cloth or cotton and use it for pillow stuffing or pillow ends. Also, the sophisticated sense of aesthetics that you can see from the pine nut pillows, whose ends were made of remnants from making clothing are exquisitely similar to what was shown in patchwork previously. The biggest meaning of restoring traditional pillows was looking into traditional culture, particularly the ordinary people's living culture. It was very difficult because the researcher had to find materials that were difficult to obtain in this age, the making process was complex, and it took much time; however, it is significant in that the restoration of traditional pillows allows for the succession of tradition.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제54권1호
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• pp.220-237
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• 2021

국가민속문화재 전 순정효황후 주칠 나전가구(傳 純貞孝皇后 朱漆 螺鈿家具) 매트리스의 제작 기법 및 사용 재료의 특성을 확인한 후 보존처리를 진행하였으며, 창덕궁 대조전 매트리스와 비교하여 1920~30년대 국내에서 사용된 매트리스의 특징을 확인해보고자 하였다. 전 순정효황후 매트리스 분석 결과, 프레임은 소나무과 솔송이 사용되었으며, 구조부인 웨빙, 트와인은 마섬유로 확인되었다. 충전재인 버랩은 마섬유, 초석은 벼속, 그 외 충전재는 면섬유로 확인되었다. 커버 상단은 레이온, 하단은 면섬유가 사용되었다. 사용된 재료와 내부 구조를 확인한 결과, 서양 가구인 데이베드와 의자에서 주로 사용되는 업홀스터리로 제작되었다. 보존처리 과정에서는 분석 결과를 바탕으로 유사한 재료를 사용하였으며, 해체 → 세척 → 보수 및 보강 → 조립의 순으로 진행하였다. 해체 과정에서 상단의 커버가 새롭게 발견되었으며, 충전재인 버랩에서 요코하마, 고베, 조선의 단어가 발견되었다. 하지만 제작사나 제작 장소를 특정할 수 있는 추가적인 흔적은 발견되지 않았다. 구조부와 충전재, 커버는 건식 세척을 진행한 후 업홀스터리 구조에서 기존 재료는 제거하지 않고 유사한 재료를 사용하여 보수 및 보강을 진행하였다. 구조부 웨빙은 동종의 재료를 사용하여 보강하였으며, 스프링의 배열 및 고정은 트와인을 사용하여 목재 프레임에 고정하였다. 손상된 면천과 버랩은 유사한 소재의 보강재를 덧댄 후 바느질하였다. 상단 커버는 손상부에 보강 직물을 마름하여 안쪽에 넣고 바느질하였다. 조립은 해체의 역순으로 진행하였다. 스프링과 닿는 부분에 동일 소재의 버랩을 삽입하여 고정한 후 충전패드, 보강천, 초석, 면천, 솜포, 커버 보호용 광목천, 커버를 씌워 택으로 마무리하였다. 순정효황후가 사용한 2개의 매트리스는 제작 시기의 차이가 있을 뿐 프레임과 충전재, 커버로 구성된 서양의 업홀스터리로 제작되었다. 보존처리 과정에서 새로운 벨벳 커버가 발견되었고 이전 수리 흔적이 확인되었으며, 충전재로 초석, 가마니와 짚풀 등이 확인됨에 따라 제작 환경에 따른 사용 재료의 변화를 확인할 수 있었다. 향후 근대문화재 업홀스터리 의자 또는 소파의 보존처리에서 사용 재료 및 제작 방법의 변화를 살펴볼 수 있을 것으로 기대된다.