• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.43 no.3
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• pp.440-458
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• 2019

Based on a 3D body data and pattern comparison analysis, this study developed a formal jacket pattern for men in their late 30s. In order to select the representative type of men in their late 30s, factor analysis and cluster analysis were conducted on data form 319 men, 35 to 39 years old using the anthropometric data from The 7th Size Korea (2015) as the representative body type. The surface of the body surface was developed using a 3D human shape of a male in his 30s in The 6th Size Korea (2010). Then the shape was changed to a flat pattern that confirmed the necessary elements for setting the shape and dimension. Cluster analysis revealed type B as the representative type because it showed the best shape characteristics for men in the late 30s. The drafting method of the final research pattern is as follows. Jacket length: stature/2.5cm, back length: stature/5+8.5cm (constant)], armhole depth: [stature/ 7-1.5cm (constant)], back width: [C/9+9.5cm (constant)]+1cm (ease), front width: [C/9+8.5cm (constant)]+1cm (ease), armscye depth: C/8, front waist darts: 1cm, front closure amount: 2cm.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.40 no.8
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• pp.61-69
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• 2002

The research of the current situation of made-to-measure production by ready-made men's suit companies was done by interviewing and surveying the made-to-measure specialists. It was apparent that most frequently purchased items in Mass Customization were jackets of formal dress. The results of the research on the current situation of Mass Customization by ready-made clothes companies were as follows. The Mass Customization accounted for 3∼10%. The advantages of Mass Customization were more acceptable sizes, designs and details while the initial reasons for it were unusual physical figures and designs. The posture of a customer during measuring turned out to be critical enough to influence fitness after production. The companies in the research were found out to have materials for Mass Customization in storage and the sizes and other data of fixed circle of customers who would want Mass Customization saved in computer in most of the cases.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.225-234
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• 2016

An online suit-customizing system for the special accessibility needs of wheelchair users should be developed because the demand for business suits by wheelchair users involved in economic activities has increased. This study develops a user interface an online customizing system for men's suits specialized for wheelchair users. This study used a five-step approach: (1) search for online men's suits customizing system in web porter sites, (2) select three sites based on three terms, (3) heuristic testing with five web specialists, (4) development of a system user interface based on suggestions for improvement from the heuristic test, (5) usability testing of the user interface prototype by 10 disabled men in wheelchairs. The interface of Company S had high ratings on interactivity, accessibility, informativeness, and consistency in the heuristic test results; subsequently, a user interface was developed based on suggestions for improvement from the heuristic test. This online user interface for customizing men's suits provides better usability to wheelchair users than existing online interfaces aimed at the non-disabled and disabled; consequently, this study contributes to the commercialization of an online customizing system for men's suits specializing in serving wheelchair users.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.8
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• pp.1524-1535
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to establish a sizing system according to size and dimension whereby manufactured pants can be classified and develop men’s formal pants pattern based on the analysis of ready-made and educational pants pattern. The first, we surveyed the sizing and the basic pants patterns of the men’s ready-made wear companies, Secondly, through the survey data of the domestic men’ready-mad clothing industry, we proposed a new sizing system. Lastly, after compared three different types of ready-mad pants manufactured according to their patterns and an additional type of pants made after the educational pattern, the new men’s basic pants pattern were developed. The findings were as follows: 1. Survey of the domestic ready-mad garment industry showed that each company classified its own manufactured goods according to its own sizing system: moreover, they each used its own unique patterns which appeared to be resulted from a combination of two factors : the experience of a patterner and foreign know-how technology. 2. New sizing system was developed with 12 steps from size 74-88 to size 96-106 based on the high frequencies of the companies’3. New basic patterns for men’s formal pants were developed: Inseam length = 80cm, crotch line = H/4+4.6cm, pants ham = 23.5cm as basic lines and front waist girth =W/4+9.1cm as drafting line. 4. the superiority of the new basic patterns were been demonstrated by a high approval rate of the subjects who participated in testing.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.113-127
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• 2021

This study aims to analyze the style of men's suits and extract expressional words for the development of semantic differential scales of visual images according to the change in silhouette. Research methods are literature studies, case studies, and questionnaires. The stimuli were created using CLO 3D, a virtual sewing CAD. This study's results are as follows: 1) The British suit jacket has an angled shoulder line using thin pads, and a slightly higher waistline. The pants of the suit have a high waistline and two pleats, so the thighs of the pants are wide. The American suit jacket has a natural shoulder line, and the waistline is not emphasized. The width of the jacket is relaxed, and the length is long. The pants of the suit have a higher waistline, and the pants are wide as well. The Italian suit jacket has wide shoulders, and the waistline is connected lower with a soft curve, and the length is relatively short. The trousers of the suit are tapered and get narrower as it goes down to the hem. 2) Because it originated in the practices of true bespoke tailoring, traditional British suits have a far more 'fitted' silhouette than the mass-produced styles that became emblematic of the American style. By the late 1950s, a sack-style suit was standard American business attire. This technique gives the sack suit its characteristically 'boxy' silhouette. The "Continental" presented a highly tailored silhouette, with padded shoulders, a slim, tight-fitting chest, and a closely tapered waist. The story was that Italian culture valued aesthetics over all else and thus sought the 'slim' suit style as much as possible. 3) The main expressional words of visual images for men's suits differ greatly depending on the silhouette of suit. The visual images are ranked in the order of 'neat', 'classic', 'educated', 'hard', 'mature', for fitted silhouettes. The words of 'masculine', 'basic', 'comfortable', 'simple', 'mature', 'conservative', 'modern', are ranked for boxy silhouettes. And the words of 'slim', 'young', 'neat', are noted for slim silhouettes.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.105-114
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• 2021

This study aims to evaluate the differences in visual images due to the variations in the silhouette and jacket type of men's suits. Six samples were used for this study: 3 examples had variations in the silhouette while 2 variations were in the jacket type. They were evaluated using a 7-point rating scale and a survey was conducted among 80 fashion students. The data was analyzed by Factor Analysis, ANOVA, Scheffé Test, and the MCA method. This study's results are as follows: 1) According to Factor Analysis, the components of visual evaluation by the silhouette and the jacket type of men's suit were classified into: attractiveness, masculinity, practicality, and naturalness. Among these factors, attractiveness and masculinity were evaluated to be the most important factors. 2) Men's suits with a single-breasted jacket had a simple and practical images in fitted and boxy silhouettes. Double-breasted jacket suits showed sexy, refined, and chic images in the fitted and slim silhouettes, and expressed an adult, profound, and conservative images in the boxy and fitted silhouettes. 3) The silhouette and the jacket type of men's suit interacted with masculinity and the practicality. Fitted and slim silhouette suits had different images that looked adult, profound, and conservative depending on the jacket type, but the boxy silhouette suit did not show the same effect. 4) According to the MCA on the attractiveness and the naturalness, the jacket type affected the visual image of men's suit more than the silhouette. Double-breasted jacket suits had more sexy, refined, and chic image than the single-breasted jacket suits. Men's suits with a single-breasted jacket had a more comfortable and natural image than those with a double breasted jacket.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.117-128
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to clarify the effects of constituent characteristics and the mechanical properties by KES-FB system on the visual texture images and preference of men's suit fabrics. Twenty different kinds of black fabrics, which were used mainly for the spring and summer men's suits, were selected and the subjective evaluation of the visual texture images was tested. Sixty experts in department of clothing and apparel industries participated in the subjective evaluation. Factor analysis showed visual texture images were classified into 4 categories : 'bulkiness', $'extensibility{\cdot}rapability'$, 'flexibility' and 'smoothness'. All of relationships were established between the mechanical properties and the visual texture images except the relation between 'flexibility' and bending properties. The significant factors affecting preference were 'smoothness', compression energy(WC), fabric count and 'flexibility', As the fabrics had higher value for 'smoothness' and 'flexibility' , and lower ones for compression energy and fabric count, they tended to be more preferred.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.92-102
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• 2011

The purpose of this research is to study the types of name spectrum and their characteristics of domestic men's wear brands focusing on formal and casual wear and also examine the differences based on the type of brands' product and brand style. Total 184 of men's wear brands, which were consisted of 66 formal wear brands and 84 casual wear brands, were selected from '2009 Korea Fashion Yearbook'. For data analysis, quantitatively evaluated the frequency and qualitatively evaluated the image of brand product and the meaning of brand name. The result as follows; 1. The domestic fashion brands for men's wear appeared to have four types of name spectrum. The descriptive name was the most frequently showed, and followed by arbitrary, suggestive, and coined name. For formal wear brands, four types of name spectrum were appeared in the order of descriptive, suggestive, coined, and arbitrary name. In casual wear brands, three types of name spectrum were appeared in the order of descriptive, arbitrary, and suggestive name. 2. The characteristics of men's brand name according to their name spectrum was as follows.; In the descriptive brand names, person's name was used the most and some ascribed the characteristics, feature or geographic location of the product. The suggestive brand names contained images and symbols of the product and also implied the relevant benefit information in a particular product context. In the arbitrary brand name, they imply the various meanings according to the product and are made up of either coined or natural. For the coined name, some bear the ideology or symbolized the characteristics of product itself. 3. The descriptive name spectrum showed the most in domestic menswear brands, regardless of the brand type. Except this, there were differences in the type and the frequency of name spectrum depending on the brand type.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.42 no.11
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• pp.85-107
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• 2004

This study classified figure types of adult males into several kinds of shape to provide fundamental data for their clothing sizing system. The subjects were 1496 men aged between 20 and 60 years old. Data were analyzed by factor analysis, cluster analysis and discriminant analysis. The results were as follows 1. For the result of the interview, the data were grouped into three age brackets: 20-35,31-45 and 41-60 years. 2. Factor analysis using values, which were measurements divided by either weight or height, was carried out to extract factors which characterize the various figures. fve factors to determine the figure types were extracted. 3. Cluster analysis using factor scores was carried out to categorize the figure types within the age groups. Figure types, describing shoulder angie and body shape, were categorized into 3 per age group. 4. Stepwise discriminant analysis w3s used to ensure that these clusters could be utilized with appropriate hit ratio. The hit ratio for each age group was around 80%.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.804-812
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• 2017

This study builds a database that can be reflected in the production of dress form for fitting by typifying the upper body shape of a senior male. This study analyzed the 3D shape data of 405 persons of the 5th Size Korea. The age range is from 50s 210 persons and 60s 205 persons. Analysis items to identify upper body shape of senior males consisted of 51 items. 3D shape data were also measured using a Geomagic Design ${\times}$ program for the analysis of the upper body of the senior male required for the dress form of this study. The reference point was based on the Size Korea 2010 3D measurement standard and created points (Back-protrusion) on shape data. As a result of the senior men type, the senior men's body type was classified into four types:1. Overall, the upper body is a large body type and the most undistorted overall body type 2. Width / Thickness Flatness is the largest and vertical length factor is the smallest abdominal obesity type 3. Severe flexion of the back part type 4. The upper body is small and the scapular bending is severe. The elderly body type showed a high distribution ratio in the type with severe flexion. The development of a dress form that reflects the cause of the finery issue can improve the fit of ready-to-wear.