Ceramides are currently emerging as the major skin care ingredients due to !heir barrier properties in the stratum corneum of the human skin. Thus, major cosmetic companies have developed synthetic ceramide analogs for their own use. In this study, several ceramide mimic compounds , new skin barrier lipids, were designed and synthesized, and their physical and biological properties were investigated to evaluate their skin care capability. Several structures were designed from the variation of hydrophobic alkyl chain and hydrophilic moiety by the use of molecular modeling software. The selected targets were synthesized, and their properties and activities were studied as the pure form, in the emulsion, or in the lamellar mixture containing cholesterol and fatty acid. Some compounds, such as 1,3-bis(N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-palmitoylamino)-2-hydroxypropane, enhanced the restoration of skin barrier damaged by SDS(sodium dodecyl sulfate), and by acetone treatment. The rate of restoration was comparable to that of natural ceramides. The synthesized compounds alleviated SDS induced skin irritation and facilitated lamellar phase liquid crystal formation. The treatment of 1,3-Dis(N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-palmitoylam ino)-2-hyd roxypropane on the acetone damaged skin revealed that the compound promoted the recovery of intercellular lipid lamellar structure of stratum corneum layer. The replacement of palmitoyl groups of the compound with shorter alkyl chain gave lower emulsion viscosity and liquid crystal density, suggesting easier formulation and poorer barrier activity. Most of the synthesized compounds were non-irritable in various toxicological tests proving that they can be safely introduced to the skin care formulations.

Inner nutshell of Castanea mollisima BL (chestnut) has been used as an anti-aging and anti-wrinkle agent from the ancient time in east Asia. In order to develop new anti-aging and anti-wrinkle, ethanolic extract of inner nutshell of Castanea mollisima BL (Cor-285) was prepared and various biological activities were evaluated. Cor-285 showed potent antioxidant activity, Especially, Cor-285 possessed potent free radical scavenging activity in vitro (IC50:7.6 g/ml) compared to gallic acid (IC50:12.5 g/ml), Cor-285 showed the preventive effect against UV-induced cytotoxicity of fibroblast at concentration of 25-250 g/ml. When Cor-285 was evaluated for its anti-allergic activity, it effectively inhibited histamine release from mast cells induced by compound 48/80 (86% inhibition at 10 mg/ml). The inhibitory activity was stronger than that of glycyrrhiznate. Cor-285 also showed in vivo inhibition against delayed hypersensitivity as well as croton-oil induced ear edema in mice when topically applied These results strongly suggest that Cor-285 may reduce immunoregulatory 1 inflammatory skin trouble. From the attempts to isolate the constituents, citropten (simple coumarin) and ellagic acid, a well known radical scavenger, were isolated. In a clinical trial of twenty healthy volunteers with aged skin,6 weeks application of Cor-285 (3% cream) decreased wrinkle about 26% and increased moisturizing 20% on the skin. All of these results indicate that Cor-285 may be an effective anti-aging and anti-wrinkle agent.

Inhibitory effects of the new material obtained from Areca catechu seed (CC-516) according to a special process, and its applicability to the skin as a cosmetic raw material in terms of its efficacy were presented. Areca catechu extract out of 150 medicinal plants, exhibited high inhibitory effect on the porcine pancreatic elastase ($IC_{50}$ : $40.8{\mu}$g/ml). It also had an inhibitory effect on the human leukocyte elastase ($IC_{50}$ : 48.1$\mu$g/ml), hyaluronidase ($IC_{50}$ : $416{\mu}$g/ml), antioxidative activity ($IC_{50}$ : $45.4\mu$g/ml) and free radical scavenging activity ($SC_{50}$ : $10.2{\mu}$g/ml). The cream contained 3％ of CC-516 improved skin hydration above 16.5％. Especially, the skin elasticity increases more than 35% and skin wrinkles decreased more than 23％. The CC-516 was designed to be utilized in cosmetology. The cream containing 3％ of this product has not only protecting effect on the skin mechanical properties provided by the collagen and the elastin in the derm but also restructuring effect of scarring or aging tissue.

Soybeans are one of the major crops for human food resource; protein, lipid, and carbohydrate. In these days, they are widely using for cosmetics to supply phospholipid; natural surfactant. In this study we used black soybean seed in korea and observed many kinds of biochemical constituents; isoflavone, melatonin, crisantemine and calcium in ethanol extract. Also, its extract (we named it Flatonin) has been demonstrated that korean black soybean seed is able to stimulate the proliferation of NIH 373 cells and increase the production of type III collagen in NIH 373 and Malme-3 (human skin fibroblast) cells. The addition of korean black soybean to quiescent NIH 373 cells resulted in an increase of proliferation which was assayed by MTF method. The maximum effect of korean black soybean was detected in 0.4％ korean black soybean treated cells which was comparable to that of 5% serum(96％ of 5％ serum effect). The addition of korean black soybean to NIH 373 and Malme-3 cells also increased the production of type III collagen in both cells. These results indicate that korean black soybean may enhance the repair process after injury and prevent aging processes in connective tissues.

The skin permeation and the skin primary irritation of two UV filters from caprylic capryl triglyceride (oil), oil in water (O/W) and water in oil (W/O) emulsions, were evaluated. We selected octyl moth-oxycinnamate (OMC) broadly used in cosmetics and polymeric sunscreen agent (PSA, average MW: 2,000) synthesized by the coupling reaction of 2-ethylhexyl 4-hydroxycinnamate with poly vinylbenzyl chloride, as model UV filters. For in vitro skin permeation experiments, Franz diffusion cells (effective diffusion area:1.766cm) and the excised skin of female hairless mouse aged 8 weeks were used. Oil or emulsion containing UV filters was applied in the donor compartment. The skin primary irritation was evaluated with fe-male guinea pigs (8-10 weeks,350-400 g). In oil and emulsions, the skin permeability and the skin primary irritation of PSA were lower than those of OMC. The skin permeability of UV filters was lower when they were in oil-in-water emulsion (OIW) than water-in-oil emulsion (W/O). We suggest that O/W system would be more useful when compared with W/O system, and PSA could be a good candidate for a future sunscreen agent for reducing the skin irritation.

13 develop an active agent for skin whitening, we examined the inhibitory effects of 285 plant extracts on tyrosinase activity and found some plant extracts have an ability to inhibit tyrosinase activity. Of these plant extracts, ramulus mori extracts showed the highest inhibiting activity on enzyme activity. From these results, we selected ramulus mori as a new active agent for skin whitening. $IC_{50}$/ of this extracts on tyrosinase activity is 12.48$\mu\textrm{g}$/m1. Also, ramulus mori extracts showed inhibitory activity on melanin synthesis in B-16 melanoma cells. We isolated active compound from ramulus mori extracts using various column chromatography and recrystalization and identified its chemical structure using Mass spectroscopy, IR and NMR analysis. So, it is identified as Mulberrin, a maior compound of ramutus mori and turned out that it has potent ability on tyrosinase inhibition. $IC_{50}$/ of this compound for tyrosinase activity is 0.5$\mu\textrm{g}$/ml. Also, this compound showed potent inhibitory activity on melanin synthesis in B-16 melanoma cells. This extracts was turned out to be safe in many safety tests.

Generally pigment differs from dye stuff because it cannot be melted in water but also because it is stable physically and chemically. In this study you will discover the function, properties and effects of Micai-TiO$_2$-SiO$_2$pigment as abase material pigment. But until now used Mica of the base material is about 7-l5${\mu}{\textrm}{m}$ with an average diameters of 15${\mu}{\textrm}{m}$. A new characteristic superficial pigment was obtained from covering the TiO$_2$ and SiO$_2$ with the adsorption result of isoelectric point of a Mica flake, TiO$_2$ and SiO$_2$In the composition reaction study of adsorption was done as well as the physical characteristics of the superficial texture of the obtained material. L,a,b of color change as oil was absorbed, optical nature and change of reflection according to direct and diffused reflection. In the composition of Mica slurry the best result obtained was in a solution with pH 2.0 to 2.3. Following this result, we can come to the idea that electrical attraction was done during the change of electrical charge of the Mica and TiO$_2$ deposit. Also this pigment shows a big scale between the direct reflection and diffused reflection light. Using this characteristic in cosmetic, it was obtained a natural but a contrast between light and shadow making possible a sculptured make-up. Color change due to oil adsorption was insignificant which improved the last of make up.

In order to lower porosity of the porous silica, titanium alkoxide solution was filled in the pore of silica in the heating-vacuum condition. The specific surface area of modified samples was decreased effectively from 900 m$^2$/g to 100 m$^2$/g. (The aggregation phenomena in modified samples were improved fairly.) Samples were heated at 600 , and then the titanium alkoxide in the pore was decomposed completely to titanium oxide from TGA-DTA measurement. From SEM result, it was evident that titanium oxide did not coat the surface of the silica. The modified samples were analyzed using SEM, DTA-TGA, BET, and UV-visible spectrometer.

In this study, we demonstrated the whitening effect of Lagenaria leucantha through the melanin biosynthesis of S bikiniensis and inhibition of melanogenesis in cultured Bl6 melanocytes. And we confirmed the whitening effect of Lagenaria leucantha through the depigmentation of gold fish in vivo. The melanogenesis of B$_{16}$ melanocytes was founded to be activated dose and time dependently by the treatment of u- MSH. When the B$_{16}$ melanocytes was treated with 200nM of $\alpha$-MSH, the morphology of melanocytes was remarkably changed. The melanin content and the synthesis of tyrosinase were strikingly increased. Lagenaria ieucantha inhibited the melanin formation stimulated by $\alpha$-MSH without affection of cell viability. However, Lagenaria leucantha didn't inhibit tyrosinase activity and showed weak suppression on the synthesis of tyrosinase. These results suggest Lagenaria leucantha might inhibit melanin formation with tyrosinase independent manner. Lagenaria ieucantha also inhibition melanin biosynthesis with 18mm inhibition zone in S.bikiniensis. To evaluate the inhibitory activity of melanogenesis of Lagenaria leucantha in vivo, we examined its effect on depigmentation of gold fish. Lagenaria ieucantha remarkably reduced the size and density of melanophores in gold fish. These results suggest that Lagenaria ieucantha can be used as a whitening agent in cosmetics.ics.s.

This Study was performed to get the suitable oil dispersion agent by assessment of color strength of organic pigment in non-aqueous systems. Organic pigment is used as a color expression material with other body pigments in the make-up products. But occasionally aggregation or agglomeration occurs for the lack of affinity with medium, This function is the cause of disturbing homogeneous dispersion, and then bring about an instability of products. Our study, research of dispersion mechanism between the pigment and oil phase, has been executed to solve this problem, and find a oil dispersion agent having optimum dispersion condition. Generally dispersion is related to between the solid-liquid mutual properties and electrical phenomena associated with solid-liquid interface. This factor is determined to input energy, milling time, optical properties, particle size, rheological properties, etc. Ideal dispersion state is told that coloring primary solid particle is homogeneously dispersed in medium. Good dispersed colorants are strongly and clearly appeared. We are already known that the particle size of organic pigment, chemical properties and viscosity of medium, refractive index. Consequently We determine the affinity of medium and organic pigment by measuring of color strength in the same mechanical condition. UV-VISIBLE RECORDING SPECTRO PHOTOMETER is used for measuring apparatus. We can decided the dispersion level of oil dispersion agent by measuring absorbance of color strength in the visible range that diluted medium for colloid colorant particles.

The aim of this study is to evaluate several plant extracts with a view to developing UV sunscreen agents. In this study, 150 plant extracts were screened to elucidate their UV spectra using spectrophotometric method. Several plant extracts such as Phellodendron amurense, Morus alba, Rhododendron mucronulatum, Brassica alba have strong absorbency at UVA region (350nm), the suntanning wavelength. And Sophora flavescens, Caesalpinia sapper, Morus alba, Phellodendron amurense, showed absorption plateau value at UVB region (308nm), the erythema action wavelength. These extracts have a good absorbency property as synthetic filter and could be served as substitutes for synthetic UV sunscreen agents.

The aim of this study is to elucidate the anti-microbial activity and anti-oxidative activity of water-soluble chitosan with a molecular weight of 5,000-200,000. Water-soluble chitosans have demonstrated a regular anti-microbial activity on the tested strians by the paper disk method. In the MIC (Minimum Inhibitory Concentration) test, CC-01 (MW=5,000) with the lower MW showed the higher MIC value than the higher MW chitosan. The MW of chitosan increase, the MIC decreases. MICs of 4 chitosans(CC-02∼CC-05) against S. aureusTCC 65389, E coli ATCC 8739, p. aeruginosa, ATCC 9027 and C. albicans ,ATCC 10231 were 7.0-39.O$\mu\textrm{m}$, whereas MICs of chitosans against A. niger were over 2.OmM. Formula containing chitosan showed higher anti-microbial activities than the formula made with the chemical preservatives(Methylparaben 0.2％ and Imidazolidinyl Urea 0.3％). Among 5 water-soluble chitosans, CC-03(MW=92,163) showed the most potent anti-oxidative activity (IC$\sub$50/ : 0.2mM). In conclusion, the water-soluble low molecular weight chitosan could be served as natural preservatives and antioxidant in cosmetics.

It was possible to produce W/O/W one step multiple emulsion on the system which satisfied following conditions. 1. 1-5％ of hydrophilic liquid surfactant over HLB20 and lipophilic liquid surfactant which has HLB 3∼5 2. Non wax copolymers as oil thickener 3. More than 0.5％ of carbomer as aqueous thickener 4. The manufacturing process which neutralize the dispersed carbomer (2.0％ in water), after emulsifying. For the selective addition into inner and outer aqueous phase, we melted the glucose in water before emulsifying. Using an Anthrone analysis method, we analyzed the encapsulation yield of glucose in inner water phase. It was possible to raise the water encapsulation yield of the multiple emulsion through the following conditions. 1. Using of anionic hydrophilic surfactant(HLB 40) and lipophilic surfactant (HLB 3∼5) 2. Controlling the ratio of hydrophilic surfactant and lipophilic surfactant 3. Strengthening interface with increase of non wax oil thickener. When the separated adding process of glucose was adopted, approximately 85％ of glucose was added selectively within inner aqueous phase.

In the make-up product, Eye-shadow products have several purposes of enhancing product quality such as providing the beauty (variation of shape, clean appearance), feeling, continuity and adhesion. In this paper, newly developed wet type back injection press process is introduced so as to increase higher value products which providing various the beauty. The solvent takes an essential role to provide the fluidity of the powder bulk during the pressed-process of wet type pressed product. In this study, the effect of solvent in the oil binder was investigated, And the higher quality condition of the wet type pressed product was built to apply cosmetic preparation. Firstly, the system was designed powder phase as non treated pigment. The oil binder phase is categorized as hydrocarbons(Mineral oil, Squalane), Silicones(Methicone, Dimethicone ), esters (Octyldodecanol, Octyl Dodecyl Myristate). The solvent phase used was C 7-8 isoparaffin and Isopropyl Alcohol. The interaction of oil binder and solvent is investigated by measuring mass of final oil binder and the each solubility parameter. It was found that the higher the solubility the higher the degree of change in the final composition of the oil binder. In order to maintain the quality of the final product, the solvent used in pressed-process should be hydrophobic with oil binder.

We investigated the stability of all-trans-retinol on the liquid crystalline O/W emulsion composed of mainly alkyl polyglycerine, alkyl polyglucose and glycerine, and compared the activity of all-trans-retinol in the various forms of liquid crystal. Under certain conditions, novel liquid crystalline gel was formed around oil droplets, and layers of this liquid crystalline gel were very wide and rigid. (SWLC; Super Wide Liquid Crystal) SWLC was very helpful to stabilize retinol in O/W emulsion. After storage at 45 C for 4 weeks, all-trans-retinol in O/W emulsion composed of SWLC retained above 85% of the activity upon HPLC analysis, whereas those within no liquid crystalline emulsion gave 47% and normal liquid crystalline emulsion composed of fatty alcohols gave 40 60%. Retinol in oil phase is nealy insoluble in pure water, but in cosmetic emulsion systems can be slightly solubilized into water because emulsifiers and polyols in emulsion systems function as solubilizers. In this case, water in outer phase acts as a media for oxygen transporation$.$and thus destabilizes retinol. As a result, retinol in O/W emulsion has a tendency to become unstable. SWLC surrounding oil droplet which contains retinol is wide and rigid, therefore reduces contact between inner phase and outer phase To make SWLC, properties of emulsifiers are very important phase transition temperature should be high, and the structure of surfactants should be bulky, and their ratio should be suitable to make rigid and wide liquid crystalline gel layer in order to reduce contact between retinol in inner phase and water in outer phase.

It is well known that all-trans-retinol is not only very unstable in heat, light, air, and water, but also skin-irritant despite a good anti-wrinkle effect. Therefore, it is very difficult to stabilize retinol and make the safe retinol containing cosmetics by using a certain concentration of retinol with real effect. In order to dissolve these problems and apply retinol for skin care cream, firstly retinol is to be encapsulated in the vesicle called Liposphere (pseudo-liposome) which is made by homogenizing under high pressure the mixtures of lecithin, retinol, caprylic/capric triglyceride, and hydroalcoholic solution ; and then this retinol containing Liposphere is to be intercalated in lamellar liquid crystal layer which is prepared by emulsifying in an optimal ratio the mixtures composed of non-ionic emulsifier (cetearyl glucoside, sorbitan stearate & sucrose cocoate etc), cetearyl alcohol, stearic acid, cholesterol, and ceramide. In addition, the stability of the retinol containing oil in water cream by adding the polymeric emulsifier such as acrylate /C10-30 alkyl alkylate crosspolymer is to be ensured even at 55 C. Retinol containing oil in water cream prepared through above procedure could be very stable at 45 C for at least 50 days. The structure identification of lamellar liquid crystal was determined using polarized light microscope and electron microscope Conclusively, we could make the very stable retinol containing oil in water cream by triple procedure, that is, encapsulation of retinol in Liposphere, intercalation of retinol in lamellar liquid crystal layer, and assurance of the high temperature stability of cream even at 55 C.

Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) has been used as a self tanning agent and many emulsion formulations containing DHA have been studied. In an emulsion, many factors which have negative effect on DHP and the resultant DHA decomposition can destabilize the emulsion base. In this study, two kinds of emulsion with 5％ DHA were prepared, O/W type emulsion and Multilamellavesicle (MLV) type emulsion to compare the stabilization effects of both emulsions on the DHA. The OHA concentration was analyzed quantitatively by high performance liquid Chromatography (HPLC), also the pH and viscosity of both emulsions were measured for stability. This process was carried out over 4 months. For HPLC, a bondaclone $C_{18}$ column with a mobile phase of distilled water and UV detector were used. The results of these experiment showed that DHA is more stable in an MLV emulsion than it is in an O/W type emulsion.

We have studied a relationship between the pattern of complex modulus change versus internal phase volume ratio and the rheological consistency of concentrated W/O emulsions with Magnesium Sulfate in the range 0.0 to 0.5 wt% and with different oil polarities, respectively. The rheological consistency with time of concentrated W/O emulsion was checked using Fudoh Rheometer and the coalescence of deformed water droplets was examined using polarized light microscope(LEICA DMRP). To find the pattern of complex modulus change of the concentrated emulsions versus internal phase volume ratio, the effect of varying water phase volume fraction from 0.78 up to 0.85 on viscoelastic measurements was investigated using rotational rheometer (HAAKE Rheostress RS 50). The rheological consistency was mainly destroyed by the coalescence of the deformed water droplets. The greater the increase of complex modulus was, the less coalescence occurred and the more consistent the concentrated emulsions were. And the pattern of complex modulus increase versus volume ratio has been explained with the resistance to coalescence of the deformed interfacial film of water droplets in concentrated W/O emulsion.

Facial hyperpigmentation in women, which is considered to be a serious cosmetic disability and a cause of mental distress, requires proper management. Melanocyte dendricity is a crucial factor affecting epidermal pigmentation. We found that BQ-788, the endothelin-B (ETB) receptor antagonist, blocks the formation of multi-dendricity which is induced by cocultured keratinocytes. Melanocytes in vivo show numerous dendrites which are in close contact with multiple keratinocytes, forming the epidermal-melanin unit. While melanocytes transfer their melanosomes into the neighboring keratinocytes via dendrites, keratinocytes secrete many growth factors and cytokines that influence viability, morphology, and melanin formation of melanocytes. Endothelin-1 (ET-1), prostaglandin E2(PGE2), and leukotriene-C4 (LT-C4) have been suggested as the candidates for increasing dendricity. Other reports suggested that ET-1 has stimulatory effects on proliferation and melanin formation of melanocytes in vitro. In the present study, using type-specific ET receptor antagonists, we observed how the morphology of melanocytes could be modulated in a coculture system. In addition, the roles of ET-1 for morphology and proliferation on melanocytes were evaluated in different culture media. We suggest that ET-1 increases dendricity and proliferation of melanocytes, and that its dendrite-inducing effect and mitogenic effect are regulated independently.