• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.8
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• pp.37-47
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• 2007

This study is considered about the fabrics of the tomb of King Muryeong at the Baekje(百濟) Period. First, there were silk fabrics such as compound woven silk(錦), twill damask(綾), complex gause(羅) and plain weaved silk(平絹). All of compound woven silk(錦) are the warp-faced compound tabby(經錦) of plain weave and the density is various from high to low one. The twill damask(綾) was a variation of twill damask weaved with a six strand warp thread. The complex gause(羅) made patterns as a set of 2 strand, 4 strand, 6 strand and 8 strand warp threads are weaved alternately with the weft. There were three kinds of plain weaved silk(平絹). The first was weaved densely without space between strands. The second was weaved with a small space between strands. And the third was weaved with a two strand warp thread, having a space between the threads. On the other hand, several pieces of well preserved ramie cloth were excavated. Of the, the densest one has the density of 125 strand/inch for the warp and the weft. In addition, strings made of flax thread were found. This suggests that flax fabrics may be found additionally if the hardened lumps of fabrics are resolved and analyzed. Other materials discovered include knits, knotted strings, embroideries, threads and floss. Pieces considered knits and knotted strings occupy a large part of fabrics excavated from King Muryeong's Tomb, and in particular knotted strings show various knotting methods. In addition, embroideries such as chain stitch and button hole stitch are clearly observed. What is more, there are silk threads and hemp threads, which are presumed to have been used for dangling ornaments such as Yeongrak(瓔珞) and beads or for sewing. Besides, floss was found between fabrics.

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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• 1993.06b
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• pp.413-417
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• 1993

A study has been conducted on the mechanical properties of two sort of woven silk fabrics, i.e. habutae and dechine, with KES-류 handle measurement system. The mechanical properties are compared with their structural parameters, such as fabric densities, thickness

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.1138-1150
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• 1996

This study was carried out to investigate the effects of dyeing on the mechanical properties, primary hand, total hand value (THV), and total appearance value (TAV) of woven fabrics. Cotton, PET, nylon, cotton/PET, and cotton/nylon woven fabrics were used as test specimens. Each of fabric was dyed under the same conditions as the fabrics for sportswear which consumers have selected as best. Mechanical properties of specimens were measured by KES-FB system and primary hand and THV were calculated by equation KN -201-MDY and KN-301-WINTER respectively. TAV was calculated by KN (eq. 10). The results were as follows: 1. In mechanical properties. tensile energy increased when cotton and two cotton mixture fabrics were dyed and decreased when polyester and nylon fabrics were dyed. Bending rigidity and shear rigidity decreased after all fabrics were dyed except nylon and cotton/ nylon mixture fabrics showing higher rigidities. Cotton fabrics showed higher surface roughness while other fabrics did lower values after dyeing. 2. In evaluation of primary hand and total hand , four primary hands of cotton fabrics so decreased after dyeing that THV were lowered. Numeri, Fukurami, and Sofutosa in primary hand of polyester, cotton/polyester, and cotton/nylon fabrics and Koshi and Numeri of nylon fabrics increased after dyeing and therefore THV of four fabrics were improved. 3. Cotton and polyester fabrics showed higher TAV due to their lower bending and shear rigidity, while nylon and cotton/nylon fabrics did lower values due to their higher shear rigidity. 4. It was proposed that the method of dyeing or treatment for minimizing the decrease of THV of cotton fabrics and TAV of nylon fabrics should be developed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.134-142
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• 2003

Performances of Taekwondo fabrics were evaluated in respect of fiber component. yarn count, weave structure and wearing comfort. As a beginning step, we investigated the present situation of Taekwondo wears by questionnaire from pro and amateur Taekwondo players. Samples employed in this study were cotton/nylon blend fabric that was newly woven for this study as well as fabrics of current Taekwondo wears for sale in the market. Their fundamental properties measured were such as air permeability, water vapor transport. wickability, absorption rate, Qmax values, thermal conductivity, durability, hand value, and etc. In addition, subjective wearing sensations were evaluated using Taekwondo wears made of those fabrics. From the results of the objective measurement and the subjective wearing test, we estimated the total fitness of fabrics as a Taekwondo wear. From the questionnaire we could see that pro players and amateurs wanted highly absorbing, quick drying, and soft-tough and complained abrasive surfaces and static elasticity of current fabrics. In view of the results so far achieved, nylon blended fabrics newly woven in this study, showed better comfort-related properties from both of the objective and subjective tests. It was also represented that finer yams enhanced water absorption and touch, and fabrics with rough surface such as honeycomb weave was superior in wearing comfort as well as aesthetic appearance.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.117-126
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• 2017

In this study, moisture transport characteristics for the woven and knitted fabrics made of 8 kinds of fiber materials using MMT (moisture management tester) were measured and discussed with the Bireck bt MMT and water evaporating rate (WER) measuring methods, which are vertical moisture transport methods. In addition, the drying property by MMT of the eight kinds of specimens was compared and discussed with the results measured by the vertical drying measurement. MMT experimental result which is horizental moisture transport appeared to be similar to the result of the Bireck method, which is the vertical moisture transport experiment. Absortion time measured from drip method of the fabrics made of the bamboo, linen, and cotton/nylon composite fabrics was short and thus they showed best wicking property, which was attributed to the low contact angle on the fabric surface and high porosity of the fabrics due to the staple yarn structure composed of the hydrophilic staple fibers. In drying property of the fabric specimens by MMT, maximum absorption radius of the dry-zone knit and bamboo woven fabrics were the highest and they showed the best drying property, which was a little different result compared with vertical drying measurement method. Half time of the drying rate in the MMT method was highly correlated with the fabric thickness and saturated moisture absortion rate and their regression coefficients were 0.9 and 0.88, respectively. This means that the knitted and woven fabric design technology for retaining good wicking and drying properties of the fabrics with thin fabric thickness is very important for obtaining high functional wear comfort fabrics. In addition, wicking and drying properties of the fabrics made of different fiber materials and with different yarns and fabric structures showed different results according to the measuring methods.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.1-11
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• 2019

This study examined the cause of the phenomenon of shrinkage in machine-embroidered fabrics, specifically those made of thin and pliable fabrics. Four woven fabrics and two knitted fabrics were selected as samples for analysis. The fabrics selected were silk organza, flax linen, polyester chiffon, cotton batiste, polyester raschel mesh, and cotton jersey. The thickness and drapability of the fabrics were observed and the shrinkage of the various types of embroidered fabrics produced using satin & step stitch techniques were measured. Moreover, the correlation between the shrinkage of the machine-embroidered fabrics and the drapability of the original fabrics was analyzed. Also, the colorfastness of six embroidery yarns was determined. The results of the study are as follows: first, the shrinkage of machine-embroidered fabrics increased at a greater rate than in embroidered knitted fabrics as compared to rates in embroidered woven fabrics. Moreover, in terms of stitch techniques, there was a greater shrinkage rate when satin stitch was applied compared to step stitch. Second, the shrinkage rate of machine-embroidered fabrics decreased when a stabilizer was fused onto the fabric. The shrinkage rate also decreased for fabrics when fused with paper stabilizer compared to those without it, and the rate decreased at a greater amount with paper stabilizer as compared to alginate film. Third, since there was a strong correlation between the shrinkage rate of the embroidered fabric and the drapability ratio of the original fabric, it was generally the case that the more pliable the fabric was, the greater the shrinkage rate was when the fabric was embroidered. Fourth, while the embroidery yarns mainly used in machine-embroidery presented an overall excellent level of colorfastness, there was slight color migration of level 4 to level 5 when using viscose rayon.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.79-84
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• 2006

This paper deals with the grey fabric deformation during relaxation. It investigates the effect of twist direction and twist liveliness on the 2/2 twill weave woven fabric distortion, during relaxation This experimental work shows that twist liveliness increases the natural tendency of the twill weave woven fabric to skew. In addition when the twist direction of the warp and weft is opposite to each other the bias curling occurs too.

• Composites Research
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.8-14
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• 2010

Three types of glass woven fabrics (plain, balanced twill, and unbalanced twill) having various sample sizes and aspect ratios were tested using the bias-extension tests. Real-time deformation images, force, and displacement data were collected. For the bias-extension test, the shear angle of the fabrics from the equation based on the crosshead displacement and fabric size was compared with direct manual measurements of the warp and weft angles as well as the optical measurement software. To determine the shear force, an analytical equation was introduced considering the kinematics of the bias-extension test. The obtained shear behaviors were further compared with the results by the trellis-frame test. The optical measurement methods showed that the mathematical method was reasonable before the shear angle of the fabrics reaches $30^{\circ}$ in the bias-extension tests. Also, the bias-extension test gave consistent behaviors with the trellis-frame test only for isotropic and homogeneous fabrics such as balanced plain and twill weaves.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.7
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• pp.41-53
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• 2012

Hwangnamdaechong Tomb (The 98th tomb in Hwangnam-dong), one of the royal tombs located around the area of royal tomb of King Michu in Hwangnam-dong, Gyeongju, is currently designated as Historic Site No. 40. It is assumed that Hwangnamdaechong Tomb is a royal tomb of the early 5th century. This study aims to examine the fabric relics excavated from Hwangdamdawchong Tomb and currently housed in Gyeongju National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage. The types of fabrics excavated from Hwangdamdawchong Tomb include plain silk, warp-faced compound woven silk, and hemp cloth. Most of these fabrics are adhered to metal products that became rusty. Plain silk found in Hwangnamdaechong Tomb can be divided into four types by its weaving method. Geum excavated from Hwangnamdaechong Tomb is typical Gyeong Geum that uses colored warp for its base and pattern. It is plain Gyeong Geum that the binding weft and warp is plain woven. Although there are a lot of Gyeong Geum fabrics whose colors are hard to define due to yellowing after long years, there are still many fabrics whose color such as purple, red, blue, and green can be identified. As literatures have shown that p cloth as well as silk were frequently woven during Silla dynasty, tremendous amount of hemp cloth was excavated. Most of the hemp cloth has S-twist in the warp and 8-12 seung degree of delicacy.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.151-162
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• 2012

The industry-wide development of digital technologies has also affected the textile and fashion industries immensely. The applications of 3D technology, virtual reality, and/or augmented reality systems have helped to create novel fashion brands based on the marriage of IT and textile/fashion industries. 3D digital virtual clothing systems have been developed to help the textile and fashion industries in terms of the planning, manufacturing, marketing and sales sectors. So far, most of the development effort for the 3d virtual clothing systems has been focused on the woven fabrics. The characteristics of woven fabrics differ from those of knitted fabric. Since the physical structures and mechanical properties of the knitted fabrics are definitely different from those of woven fabrics, the simulation process for the knitted fabrics should follow different approaches. The loops in a knitted fabric deform easily. The deformation results in a readily stretchable fabric appearance. Cloth simulation mostly employs models that approximate the mechanical properties of linear elastic planes. This simulation scheme does not, however, describe well enough the behavior of knitted fabrics, which deviate largely from the linear isotropic material characteristics. This study aims at characterizing the tensile deformation and surface textures of a knitted fabric product. Tensile deformation curves for the wale, course, and bias direction are analyzed. The surface texture of the knitted fabric is analyzed by using a 3-dimensional scanning device.