• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.65 no.4
• /
• pp.31-44
• /
• 2015

The purpose of this study is to examine introduction and establishment of the police uniform during Japan's early Meiji period, in order to get deeper understanding of the introduction of the modern uniform. The research method included a literature review of laws related to police uniform, which were collected and analyzed. The result shows that the uniform stipulated by Keisi-cho Uniform regulation in 1874 included characteristics of Western uniforms that show the rank of the officers using emblems, such as different cap badges and uniform stripes, while maintaining the same form. Later, the modern uniform system came into form with the addition of a national symbol, building system of formal wear, separating uniforms for different classes, and adding additional uniforms. This illustrates the process of introducing and establishing western-style uniform in the East and can serve as a reference for similar studies.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.10 no.1
• /
• pp.68-75
• /
• 2008

Demands and attempts to express Korean traditional beauty are increasing. Some schools choose the uniform in designs expressing the image of Hanbok, but recently there is a few increment of wearing the uniforms. For the improvement of the uniforms, first of all, the shape and the clothing materials of the uniforms should be considered. We have compared and analyzed the shape and the clothing materials of the uniforms reflecting the image of Hanbok, according to seasons and clothing items. The uniforms reflecting the image of Hanbok were worn in eight schools and all of them are Saenghwal Hanbok style. The shape of Saenghwal Hanbok school uniforms showed both Korean style and western style characteristics. Korean style characteristics were expressed through the appearance-related parts while western style characteristics showed through the performance-related parts such as open/closure method, armhole pattern and straight sleeve line. It was shown that girls' uniforms are more diverse and similar to the western style uniforms than boys' uniforms. It was found that most of the clothing material were synthetic fiber or mixture of natural/synthetic fiber, and polyester was shown to be used most.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.35 no.3
• /
• pp.307-318
• /
• 1997

I observed the important factors of clothing transition - Changes of Korean clothing & reception of Western-style dress - through the survey of the clothing of girl students during the period of enlightenment(1900∼1945) in this study as follows. 1) Stop to use of a long hood an old-fashioned woman shawI(once used to cover th head and upper body when going out). 2) Appearance of same colored Korean costume of the upper and lower sides. 3) Appearance of a short seamless one-piece skirt with a pair of shoulder girdles. 4) Appearance of school uniform, upper white lower black-Korean costume. 5) Appearance of school uniform, Western style. 6) Appearance of sports-wear. 7) Reformation of under-wear. 8) Appearance of short hair. 9) Appearance of socks & stockings and shoes.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.12 no.2
• /
• pp.211-223
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this study is to examine aspects of education, social activity, and sense of values in new women, categorizing the clothing habits into hair style, new modes and accessories on the basis of those. and to find out the influences of new women's attirement on clothing habit of general women, centering of 「Beol Geon Gon」 which made its first appearance in November 1926 and issued till June, 1934. First, new education became good opportunity to face and adopt new style of clothes. The school uniform of western style worn under the education system operated missionaries and clothes of returning students from studying abroad became a chance for general people to meet western clothes. Second, various style of western clothing was shown by enlargement of social activity area of new women. In the educational world and active careers such as doctor, journalist. women's libber, convenient clothing was required. The appearance of airwoman and driver showed trends that women's clothing was changing similar to men's clothing. Third, even general women started to adopt western clothes not to be old-fashioned as being threatened and weakened by the vision about marriage and love among new women, and participated in the trends.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.26
• /
• pp.123-143
• /
• 1995

Clothing as one of elements of culture has been interwoven with cultural diffusion, and accompanied the most visible change. In this paper, it was focused that the process and the characteristics of western clothing adop-tion of Korea from 1876 to 1945 corelating with cultural diffusion theory. They were analyzed through the change of clothing reformation system by government, school uniform, and social phenomenon. The finding of this paper were as followings; 1. The process of western clothing adoption was forcibly demanded by Japan, therefore influenced by Japan. 2. The clothing reformation which was forced to accept western style was confronted by complex of cultural, psychological and economical resistance. 3. The fashion leaders of this period were Korean students studying abroad, diplomatic officials, members of the armed forces, government officials, students of western educational systemed school, and lady of evangelist. 4. Man adopted western clothing earlier than woman. 5. Western clothing adoption was took precedence in case of formal wear, diplomatic official's attire, military uniform, and school uniform. 6. In this process, we can find 'transculturation' by Malinowski and 'reinter-pretation' by Herskovits. 7. This process was a kind of 'reorientaion'. 8. The change of clothing which was affected by the tradition, for example, robe for the ancestral rites was evolutionary than others. 9. Clothing elements based on mental or internal characteristics like which clothing was hardly changed by compulsion or extortion. 10. The external trends of clothing change during this period were simplicity, utility, and decrease of status symbols.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.43 no.8 s.210
• /
• pp.69-81
• /
• 2005

The purpose of this study is to design high school boy's uniforms, which fit well and express the traditional aesthetics of Korean clothing. Korean traditional clothing is getting ground for the use as active wear as well as formal wear such as wedding or special holiday clothing. This is partly due to the introduction of western clothing in Korea because of the practical nature of this type of clothing. This study was carried out as follows: 1. First, 197 high school boys from 5 different high schools were surveyed. All of these schools use Korean style school uniforms. The survey asked the students about their satisfaction with the current designs, problems and design preferences for Korean style high school uniforms. In general, the boys are not satisfied with the aesthetic and fashionable aspects of their uniforms. 2. The second survey dealt with design preferences from a variety of design options of Korean-style school uniforms. The design options were presented to the students as in the form of 10 different types jackets and 6 different types of pants. Using the results of the second survey as a guideline, the designs of Korean style school uniforms were developed. 3. In order to make the test garments, a block bodice pattern for the Korean style school uniforms was developed. Using the developed bodice block pattern, 6 designs were made of wool. The 6 test designs consisted of 3 different types of jackets and 3 different types of pants. 4. Incorporating the most preferred design features, school boy Korean style school uniform designs were developed. The characteristics of the design include neck line opening and its finishing, AH and sleeve shape, embroidered traditional patterns and fastenings. In this study we were able to develop comfortable clothing, which expressed the traditional aesthetics of Korean clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.57 no.7
• /
• pp.30-44
• /
• 2007

The culture includes every possible objective forms created by humans and their shared aspects of ideas, feelings, and behaviors, beliefs and etc. The dress and its ornaments are part of the culture that expresses the relationships in objective ways and in formless immaterial ways. The school uniform represents significant meanings to the students in their school years, and it is the way of expressing their individuality and full filling their needs for self-presentation. Therefore, understanding and analyzing youth culture means understanding students' school uniform along with fast changing twenty first century civilization. Korea and Japan are very close nations to each other. Both Korean and Japanese girls' school uniform style were adopted western clothing style and went through many changes based on cultural differences between two countries. They are affected by different peculiarities between two nations and youth cultures from different cities. Therefore, this research is on analyzing how different visual values of girl's high school uniforms in Seoul and Tokyo and understanding youth cultures through macro-analysis. The youth cultures in Korea and Japan are mostly similar but there is special development on animation in Japan and possibly can find many styles of girl's high school uniform. Both nations are varying to be opened to sexual culture of adolescents but Japan is more uninhibited than Korea. In Japan, sailor-uniform can be found in fetish way in public culture. On one hand, because of most private girl's high schools in Tokyo takes an entrance examination, top-ranking students are very proud of their school uniforms and even students from other public high schools get private high school uniforms to attend school festival. This analysis showed that private girl's high school uniform in Seoul appealed as slim fitted silhouette which is close to modem woman's suit style while in Tokyo appealed as boxy style matched with short pleated skirt or sailor-uniform style. Comparing that to school uniform photos taken on the street, we can find that alikeness or more extreme styles as examples. These are influenced by different youth cultures in Seoul and Tokyo and cultural differences stands for different aesthetic norm being accepted or rejected.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.21 no.1
• /
• pp.31-41
• /
• 2013

By researching Western equestrian clothing, this study investigated the process in which styles of menswear are introduced into women's sportswear. In addition to women's equestrian clothing shown in paintings and illustrations kept in overseas museums, this study also analyzed books addressing 200 years of Western dress style history, from the late $17^{th}$ century to the $19^{th}$ century. The analysis data present the design characteristics of women's equestrian clothing according to different periods. A total of 21 works were used as research data: two from periods prior to the $17^{th}$ century, three from the $17^{th}$ century, ten from the $18^{th}$ century, and six from the $19^{th}$ century. The research results show that items of trendy menswear were commonly used in women's equestrian clothing during the late $17^{th}$ century - to be specific, in all forms of clothing worn on the upper body, including coat and cravat, tricomhat, and accessories. Women's equestrian clothing after the $18^{th}$ century took the form of menswear. However, the uniform was also generally worn with a fitted, tailored redingote on top of the robe, along with pants. In the $19^{th}$ century, women's equestrian clothing became longer in length, like men's styles. The uniform gradually lost volume, and the jacket became shorter and narrower. In addition, the drawers were replaced with pants that came down to the ankles, which were similar to men's trousers. Breeches also became knee - length, thus following the style of menswear. These results show that women's equestrian clothing, worn during horseback riding, a sport previously enjoyed by Western aristocrats, were similar to what men wore. Also, in contrast to the distinct differences seen between men's and women's daily clothing, the equestrian uniforms of women showed a tendency to follow the clothing style of men.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.54 no.2
• /
• pp.121-133
• /
• 2004

This study is about japanese national suit. women's standard dress, and mompe, which were used as a means of controlling people's life and simplifying people's clothing during the chinese-japanese war(1937) and the pacific war(1941-1945). National suit was a semi-military uniform for men and it was the western style suit composed of jacket, under shirt, and pants. National suit was not popular during the early war, but it became popular afterward. Women's standard dress had the two kinds of styles : the kimono and the western style. Women's standard dress was not popularly distributed. Instead, many japanese women wore mompe, the active wear of standard dress. Almost all of japanese women wore mompe by the end of war because of its practical use. The effects of national suit, standard dress, and mompe on the rapid westernization of postwar japanese clothing can be summarized as follows. First, national suit and standard dress contributed to the official acceptance of the western clothes as japanese daily clothes. Second, national suit, standard dress, and mompe changed the traditional view of japanese on clothing and caused the rapid westernization of japanese clothing with the high emphasis on the practical and functional use of clothing. Especially, as japanese women wore mompe as the outer garment, mompe affected the view of japanese on women's body and it served as an important stimulus to speed the westernization of japanese women's clothing.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.6 no.3
• /
• pp.153-167
• /
• 2004

Korea had suffered the colony of Japanese imperialism and the Korean War from the invasion of the external circumstances. Such special situation made new influences on the clothing habits. The types of Korean women clothing could escape from the traditional style that had been maintained for thousands of years. The foreign clothes for Korean women had undergone various changes from the Liberation in 1945. The jackets that had been introduced to Korea at the Enlightenment period had become popular outfits for men. The jackets made big influences on the changes such as the social advances for women from the times background of the Liberation. The jackets possess very important meaning for the changes in the diffusion of feminism and fashion. Therefore, this research tries to investigate the forms, silhouettes, changes and structures of the jackets such as the locations of the collar, the sleeve, and the waste line. The process of the changes in the style of women jackets is also analyzed from the silhouette and the structure method. The development and changes will be understood of Korean women's jackets. The Korean women's jackets should also be examined further with the history of foreign clothing from now on. The fashion to be introduced from important society cultural phenomena and the Western Europe has been reflected into the changes in the style of Korean female jackets. Also, dramatic changes in the style of clothing indicate that the society had experienced a great deal of changes. It is verified that foreign clothes have been interacted with the stream of times worldwide. After the Liberation, the female jackets become a uniform style which just followed the Western European style. However, a season trend has been announced from the SFAA since 1990. Since then trendy jackets have been detailed more with this chance.