• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.345-369
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• 2017

The ocean environment offshore West Africa is considered to be mild. However, the generated swell from distant North and South Atlantic during austral winter and summer can reach high wave amplitudes with relatively low wave periods or low wave amplitudes with long wave periods, the later can be a crucial scenario to consider when the assessment of vessel resonance is of importance. Most offshore operations, which include offshore drilling, and installation in West Africa, are carried out from floating systems. The response of these systems and performance are governed by characteristics, such as amplitude and frequency of the wave and swell seas. It is therefore important to fully understand the sea conditions offshore Nigeria. This study covers the description of the swell sea offshore Nigeria using Bonga offshore wave measurements collected from the directional wave-rider (DWR), positioned at the Bonga site off the coast of Nigeria.

• 한국방재학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2009.02b
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• pp.125.1-125.1
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• 2009

• International Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology Speciallssue:Selected Papers
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.22-30
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• 2001

A new concept wave absorber is proposed. It is a net type wave absorber. Its efficiency was reported in another publication. Since it is based on new concept, the traditional wave absorber theory is not applicable. It is modeled by introducing damping terms in linearized free surface boundary conditions in this study. The length and the thickness of the wave absorber are modeled by the length and the coefficient of the damping terms. Series of experiments are carried out to get the data for the coefficients of the damping term. The boundary element method is adopted to solve the system. The predicted wave heights show excellent agreement with those of experiments when the lengths of the incoming waves are within the length of the wave absorber.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Hazard Mitigation
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.187-197
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• 2007

Experimental study for a submerged structure was conducted to protect coastal structures and shorelines. The rectangular submerged structure known as the most efficient shape among various submerged structures in the literature was fabricated at the nose of a rubble mound breakwater. The reflection coefficients and the run-up heights along the slope of a breakwater were measured for different significant wave heights and periods. It is found in this study that the reflection coefficient is affected more relatively by the significant wave period than the significant wave height and the run-up heights are reduced approximately 28% in terms of ${^{RU}}_{2%}$ and 26% in terms of ${^{RU}}_{33%}$, respectively, by the installation of a submerged structure inducing the interception and breaking of waves.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.14-21
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• 2013

This study examined the field application of a 3-D numerical model (LES-WASS-3D) to the estimation of the nearshore current at Songdo beach, Busan. The wave and tide conditions observed at Songdo beach during Typhoon Ewiniar (July 10, 2006) were used in a numerical simulation. The numerical wave heights were in good agreement with the field data. The spatial distributions of the wave heights, mean water levels, and mean flows obtained from the numerical simulation are discussed in relation to the bottom topographical change near Songdo beach before and after Typhoon Ewiniar. The results revealed that LES-WASS-3D is a powerful tool for estimating the nearshore current in the field.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.38 no.11
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• pp.947-954
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• 2005

In this study, laboratory measurements are presented for run-up heights and overtopping of water waves on slopes of rubble-mound breakwaters armored with tetrapods. The effects of wave steepness, surf similarity and wave period on the run-up height and overtopping are investigated in detail. A measurements. A very reasonable agreement is observed. A slopes of breakwaters become milder, run-up heights become smaller. The overtopping rate also is considerably rate also is considerably affected by wave steepness and period.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.88-93
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• 1994

This study is concerned with an analytic derivation of the probability density function applicable for wave heights in finite water depth using two different methods. As the first method of the study, a probability density function is developed by applying a series of polynomials which is orthogonal with respect to Rayleigh probability density function. The newly derived probability density function is compared with the histogram constructed from wave data obtained in finite water depth which indicate strong non-Gaussian characteristics. Although the probability density represents the histogram very well. it has negative density at large values. Although the magnitude of the negative density is small. it negates the use of the distribution function fer estimating extreme values. As the second method of the study, a probability density function of wave height is developed by applying the maximum entropy method. The probability density function thusly derived agrees very well with the wave height distribution in shallow water, and appears to be useful in estimating extreme values and statistical properties of wave heights in finite water depth. However, a functional relationship between the probability distribution and the non-Gaussian characteristics of the data cannot be obtained by applying the maximum entropy method.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.34 no.3
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• pp.873-883
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• 2014

This study proposed an estimation method of allowable wave height for loading and unloading of the ship considering ship motion that is affected by ship sizes, mooring conditions, wave periods and directions. The method was examined validity by comparison with wave field data at pier $8^{th}$ in Pohang new harbor. The wave field data obtained with wave height of 0.10~0.75m and wave period of 7~13s in ship sizes of 800~35,000ton when a downtimes have occurred. On the other hand, the results of allowable wave height for loading and unloading of the ship in this method have obtained with wave heights of 0.19~0.50m and wave periods of 8~12s for ship sizes of 5,000, 10,000 and 30,000ton. Thus this method well reproduced the field data respond to various a ship sizes and wave periods. And the results of this method tended to decrease in 16~62% when have considered long wave, and it is decreased in 0~46% when didn't consider long wave than design standards in case of the ship sizes of 5,000~30,000ton, wave period of 12s and wave angle of $75^{\circ}C$. The allowable wave heights for loading and unloading of the ship proposed by design standards are didn't respond to various the ship sizes and wave periods, and we have found that the design standards has overestimated on smaller than 10,000ton.

• International Journal of Ocean System Engineering
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• v.2 no.4
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• pp.250-258
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• 2012

The distribution of wave heights is assumed to be a Rayleigh distribution, based on the assumption of a narrow band and Gaussian distribution of wave elevation. The present study was started with doubts about the narrow band assumption. We selected the wave spectra widely used to simulate irregular random waves. The wave spectra used in this study included the Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum, Bretschneider-Mitsuyasu spectrum, and JONSWAP spectrum. The directionality of the waves was considered. The cosine 2-l type directional spreading function and mixed form of the half-cosine 2-s type with Mitsuyasu type directional spreading are considered here to investigate the effects of a directional spreading function on random waves. The simulated wave height distribution is compared with a Rayleigh distribution.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.39-46
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• 2010

The calmness inside a harbor plays an important role in the appropriate disposition of harbor structures. However, it is not easy to acquire accurate computational results because these are affected by many factors concerned with wave transformation. Recently, numerical model tests, which are quicker and more economical than hydraulic model experiments, were carried out for the purpose of analyzing wave height distributions in harbors. This paper presents a numerical model that is able to calculate wave heights inside a harbor. It is based on a time-dependent mild slope involving wave refraction, diffraction, shoaling effect, and reflection. In particular, arbitrary reflectivity is used at the boundary in order to simulate the real harbor reflection condition. The proposed numerical model is applied to Samcheon new-harbor in order to investigate harbor calmness.