• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.247-260
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• 2021

While it is an important element of clothing construction, research has so far been very limited on the similarities between virtual and real clothing in terms of the type of neckline. The purpose of this study is to verify the similarity, accuracy of virtualization, and actuality of neckline, which all play an important role in individual impressions and image formation, and require considerable modification when fitting real samples. A total of 5 neckline models were selected through the analysis of dress composition textbooks. The selected designs were then planned and manufactured in muslin. The specimen clothes were then tested on a female model in her 20s. 2 kinds of virtual bodies were created in order to compare the real and the virtual dressing. The first virtual body was made through an Artec 3D Eva scan of the model, and the other was made by entering the model's measurements in a CLO 3D program. A visual image of the front, side, and back image of both the real and virtual dressing were subsequently collected. The collected images were then evaluated by 20 professional fashion workers who checked the similarity between the real and the virtual versions. The current study found that the similarity between the actual and virtual wearing of the five neckline designs with reality appeared higher with the virtual wearing image using the 3D-scanned body. The results of this study could provide further information on the selection of appropriate avatars to clothing companies that check the fit of clothing by utilizing 3D virtualized programs.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.122-142
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• 2018

In the virtual fitting system, the use of a 3D avatar is not a simple garment model, but it should be able to reproduce the size and shape of the customer using a fitting system. Although various virtual fitting systems have their own 3D avatar sizing systems and provide 3D avatars that match the size of the customer, there are limitations in realizing the actual body shape in actual use by the consumer. The purpose of this study is to realize a 3D avatar with excellent size and conformity for customer use. Therefore, this study aims to provide basic data for the formation of a 3D standard avatar of Korean women aged in their 20's, by comparing and analyzing the degree of the consumer user friendly system change of a body type, and the consumer's ability in selecting a consumer representative body type. Based on the survey data of 'Size Korea' conducted from 2004 to 2015 at three times, we examined the change of body shape over 10 years. Then, based on the results of 6th and 7th data, 4 factors of the concurrent body shape change of women of the consumer demographic studied were selected through the use of a factor analysis. Following this analysis, the 4 extracted factors were clustered again and finally released 7 representative body types, which were obtained based on height and weight. The size of each representative figure is derived by the use of a regression analysis, and it is used as a basic data for 3D avatar formation of the virtual fitting system.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.5
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• pp.640-650
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• 2023

This study aimed to suggest a suitable collar pattern by visually evaluating the appearance of the amount of collar drape by the starting position of the lapel line of a double-breasted tailored jacket using a 3d virtual fitting program. It created an avatar based on the mean size of women in their 20s (the 8th Size Korea) using clo network (double fastening: 10cm, collar width: 4.5cm, collar stand: 3cm, and lapel width: 8.5cm). The starting of the lapel twist line was waistline level, the 1/2 level of bustline and waistline, or bustline level, and collar laying amount was 4.5, 5.5, 6.5, or 7.5cm. It was evaluated by garment construction experts using 5, 6, and 4 items on the front, sides, and back, respectively. Descriptive statistics, F-test, Duncan-test, and reliability analysis were conducted using SPSS 22. When collar laying amount was 6.5cm, it was best rated regardless of the starting point. Under waist line, when collar laying amount was 6.5cm, it was best rated regardless of the starting point. When collar laying amount was large, the collar's outline length increased, resulting in unnecessary wrinkles from the neckline to the lapel, affecting the overall collar appearance. When collar laying amount was the smallest, the collar was lifted and the width was narrowed, exposing the seam connecting the collar and neckline. The length of the collar's outline varied depending on collar laying amount, which was important to make the outline sit comfortably on the body.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.69-79
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• 2017

The purpose of this study was to compare fitting of the upper garment by brassiere cup size and types of bodice block. This study conducted a 3D virtual garment system by applying three types of bodice block (I, II, III) and experimental pattern of the bodice block to 3D avatars of four individuals with the following measurements: under bust circumference of 73.5 cm and bust circumferences of 83.5 cm, 86.0 cm, 88.5 cm, and 91.0cm. The results of the study were as follows. First, for 83.5 cm bust circumference (A Cup), appearance of the three types of bodice block (I, II, III) was appropriate. However, as bust circumference increased in size, shape became inappropriate. The depth and width of the armhole, within 15 cm and 11 cm, respectively, were found to be appropriate. In case of 91.0 cm bust circumference (D Cup), all three bodices (I, II, III) were inappropriate. Second, the results of the draft of the experimental patterns of the bodice block of bust circumference measuring 83.5 cm, 86.0 cm, 88.5 cm, and 91.0 cm in the 3D avatars of the four individuals revealed similarities in the frontal view of the silhouette in the four avatars; in the case of the lateral view of the silhouette, lateral width grew wider as bust circumference of the silhouette became larger, but the shape of armhole showed no changes. The depth of the armhole showed little changes from 15.1 cm to 15.22 cm, and the height of sleeve (armscye depth 13.6 cm within +2 cm) remained similar. The difference in width of the armhole from 11.26 cm to 11.37 cm was rather small. The width of the upper sleeve (8.97 cm) seemed to be appropriate as it remained within the 2-3 cm boundary.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.5
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• pp.586-606
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• 2023

This study initiated research aligned with the body positivity movement, aiming to explore size diversity for groups facing relative size discrimination due to their deviation from average body types. Using KS adult women's apparel dimensions as a reference, jackets were developed for women in their 20s to 30s who belong to the small petite-size (S[P]) category, which is characterized by a height under 155cm (petite) and a bust-circumference from 72cm to less than 82cm (small). Using 3D virtual-fitting, we conducted experiment-pattern production and refinement and subsequent real-fitting evaluations by participants to objectively validate aesthetics and comfort. The study's findings are as follows: First, utilizing a 3D virtual-fitting program by identifying 'creases' and 'garment pressure points' in the jacket appearance, experiment patterns were refined and real jackets were produced. This approach addressed challenges in recruiting participants with specific body types and allowed for efficient research in terms of cost and time. Second, through real-fitting evaluations, basic-fit and slim-fit jackets labeled as <79-88-150> were developed for the S(P) size. we presented 'size spec' and 'ease allowance' for jackets by waist fit. Both fits received positive evaluations with approximately 53.5cm sleeve length, and 11.7cm shoulder length. The ease allowances for the basic-fit jacket were approximately 9.2cm at the bust circumference, 12.8cm at the waist circumference, and 6cm at the hip circumference. Similarly, the slim-fit jacket exhibited ease allowances of about 4.8cm at the bust circumference, 4cm at the waist circumference, and 4cm at the hip circumference, receiving positive evaluations for aesthetics and comfort.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.163-178
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• 2014

In America, where obesity rate ranks no.1 in the world, the plus size market is rapidly expanding with various American brands adding plus size lines in a way to diversify their products. As obesity is expanding throughout the younger generation, the necessity to develop products according to different characteristics of body shape that can fulfill the needs of young plus size consumers is being emphasized. In this study of young plus size, our focus is on providing wider spectrum of design choices for consumers by analyzing different body shapes, categorizing them, and then identifying the differences of design among them. More specifically, the object of this study is to analyze the elements that differentiate the designs from each other by virtually trying out the same item on avatars of various body shapes. Thus, we can identify the elements that needs to be differentiated according to different body shapes after implementing virtual fitting program on plus size shapes that are rather difficult considering the reality of domestic fashion companies. In this way, we are able to provide fundamental data for American plus size fashion market and design development for Korean fashion companies that are under way of entering or planning to enter the American market. Furthermore, this will demonstrate the actual details of the designs that will eventually help the development of specialized product for the globalization of Korean fashion industry.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.73-87
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• 2021

This study aimed to develop fashion designs by applying the PO (Provocative Operation) method as a 3D virtual clothing program and to derive the PO application method in fashion design. The first T-shirt design was presented as an existing thinking method, and the second design was developed by applying escape, reversal, exaggeration, distortion, and hopeful thinking techniques, which are techniques for 'provocation' of the PO method, to the first design. Thus, 18 T-shirt designs were developed as 3D virtual clothing, with 3 sets of 6 designs, including the 1st and 2nd designs. The method of using the 'provocation' techniques of the PO method in the development of fashion design derived from this was as follows. First, the 'escape' technique was designed in such a way that a part of the detail or structure was deleted, or a part of the structure or expression element of another item was applied. Second, the 'inversion' technique was expressed by inverting the position or shape of a detail or structure up, down, left, and right; fitting the structural detail or reversing the shape; or converting the structure and form. Third, the 'exaggeration' technique exaggerated the size, length, and volume of a structure's form or detail. Fourth, the 'distortion' technique was expressed as a distortion of lines or shapes or a visual distortion using the Trompe l'oeil technique. Fifth, the 'hopeful thinking' technique was developed and expressed from the idea of an hypothetical 'if' it was absurd, irrational, and unrealistic.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.46-60
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• 2008

Lyocell is a regenerated cellulosic fiber manufactured by an environmentally friendly process. The major advantages of lyocell are the excellent drape forming property, the genuine bulkiness, smooth surface, and high dry/wet tenacities. However, one drawback of lyocell is its fibrillation property, which would degrade its aesthetic quality and lower the consumer satisfaction. In our previous studies, lyocell was treated with epichlorohydrin, a non-formalin based crosslinker, to reduce its fibrillation tendency. To investigate the changes of physical properties upon ECH-treatment, the hand characteristics of ECH-treated fabric were observed using KES-FB system and the 3D-virtual sewing image of the fabrics were obtained using 3D CAD simulation system in this study. Since epichlorohydrin(ECH) treatment was conducted in the alkaline medium, the weight reduction was observed in all treated lyocell. The treated lyocell became light, smooth and flexible in spite of ECH crosslinker application. LT and RT in tensile property upon the ECH treatment did not change significantly, however, EMT and WT in the tensile property increased. The significant decrease in bending rigidity was resulted in all ECH-treated lyocell, which is the result of the weight loss upon the alkali condition of ECH treatment. The bending rigidity increased again in the ECH 30% treated lyocell, however, the B value is still lower than the original. Therefore, the ECH-treated lyocell would be more stretchable and softer than the original. Shear rigidity was also decreased in all ECH-treated lyocell, which would result in more drape and body fitting when it is made as a garment. The ECH-treated fabric showed the softer smoother surface according to SMD value from KES evaluation. The virtual 3D sewing image of the ECH-treated lyocell did not show a significant change from that of the original except ECH 30% treated lyocell. ECH 30% treated lyocell showed a stiffer and more puckered image than the original.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.448-457
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• 2017

This study aims to analyze the changes in the mechanical properties of interlock fabrics knitted with three types of fibers (i.e., cotton, wool, and polyester) by bonding fusible interlinings with varying deniers (i.e., 10D, 20D, and 30D) for a 3D virtual try-on system. We experimented with four properties and thicknesses of twelve specimens of interlining bonded knitted fabrics including face fabrics and interlinings. The results showed that the tensile property changed values (i.e., LT increased, and WT and RT decreased) according to the denier of interlinings; however, the change was slight. On the other hand, the bending property increased significantly as the denier of the interlining increased on both the wale and the course. Among shearing properties, the value of G increased as the denier of the interlining increased on both the wale and the weft; however, 2HG decreased. Additionally, changes in the compression property varied according to the fibers and the denier of the interlinings. The thickness of the knitted fabrics increased or decreased slightly by bonding the interlining. based on these results, we conclude that the 3D virtual system users need to reflect these numerical changes of interlock fabrics by bonding interlinings when they perform fitting tasks on the screen to accurately express the to accurately express the manufacturing conditions of the real garment.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.102-114
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to enable a scientific and rational approach for future research agenda setting in the clothing construction field. Through analysis of research papers on clothing construction published in domestic academic journals during the recent decade, the research trend of clothing construction in respective academic journals, research subjects, and research contents were grasped thoroughly. From all domestic academic associations' publication on garment/clothing and textiles/fashion, 7 academic journals were selected as subjects of research, in order to compare and analyze the research trend in the last ten years. The ten-year period ranged from April 2006 to March 2016, and a total of 735 papers published on clothing construction were used for analysis. The number of publications in the clothing construction area during the last decade has decreased, which is due to the increase in the number of clothing and textiles fashion-related academic journals, other than the 7 journals analyzed, and since the number of papers published in international academic journals has also increased. Body type, patterns, fitting test, and functional clothing accounted for the highest proportion of research themes in clothing construction. In terms of body type, there was an increasing tendency towards usage of 3D body measurement. In the patterns area, the 3D virtual dressing system was actively used. For functional clothing, sportswear, protective clothes, and innerwear were most widely researched, and ergonomic design together with smartwear was actively studied.