• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
• /
• v.29 no.1
• /
• pp.57-63
• /
• 1987

견직물의 정련에 있어서 관행 정련제인 비누와 이태리 견직업계에서 사용하고 있는 3종의 화학정련제를 비교 시험하였다. 정련 견직물의 강신도와 염색성은 비누 정련과 화학정련제 간에 차이가 없었으나 견직유질의 변성과 관련되는 점도 및 아미노기(-NH2) 함량은 비누정련견이 화학정련제 정련견에 비하여 약간 증가 및 감소되었으며 표면 미세구조에 있어서도 비누 정련견이 비교적 불순물의 잔류가 적었고 3종의 화학정련제 중에서는 정련제 "S"에 의한 정련견에 불순물의 잔류가 가장 적게 보였다.가장 적게 보였다.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.12 no.3
• /
• pp.159-165
• /
• 2000

This study surveys the fabric mechanical properties according to the weaving design & finishing conditions of wool fabrics for quality control in the process. For this purpose, 8 kinds of Twill groups and 3 kinds of Plain groups weave fabrics, totally 428 woven fabrics are prepared with change of the yarn count, density and finishing method. Fabric thickness, bending rigidity, extensibility, shear rigidity, formability of the fabrics were measured and discussed with weaving design & finishing conditions.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.20 no.5
• /
• pp.592-599
• /
• 2018

The purpose of this study is to investigate consumer needs, image sensibility and preference of bedding fabric according to size and spacing of dot pattern. 18 kinds of dot pattern fabrics were designed with different diameters(6, 8, 10cm) and distances(4, 7, 10cm) in regular arrangement of diamond figure. The subjects were 162 male and female university students. The data were analyzed by SPSS 24.0. Fabrics were assessed subjectively using a 5-point scale 17 consumer needs and 33 sensory descriptors. The most consumer's needs for bedding fabric was shown to be functionality of bedding including hygiene, touch, warmth, ease of washing and management, air permeability, and hygroscopicity. The other parameters of consumer's needs were shown to be physical property and design parameter. The results of analysis of the dimension of image sensibility for fabrics with different size and spacing of dots are derived from six factors including joyfulness, coziness, uniqueness, charm, femininity, and complexity. As a result of analysis of preference with fabric kinds, there was a significant difference in preference with fabrics. The preferred fabrics were characterized by the pattern and the base fabric being striking three-dimensionally with 1/3 twill and 3/1 twill fabric. Sensory descriptors related to joyful image and unique image were analyzed as evaluation terms that can distinguish the preferences of fabrics. Correlation analysis showed the fabrics are preferred as the difference in luminance and reflectance between the base and pattern of the fabric become larger and the spacing of patterns become closer.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.13 no.5
• /
• pp.787-798
• /
• 2004

This research was designed to compare clothing fabric images between on- and off-line by fabric types and its characteristics. 125 subjects who have a fashion design major evaluated the fabric image of various 16 kinds of specimens on- and off-line. Frequency, x2-test, t-test, and Pearson correlation were used for statistical analysis by SPSS WIN 11.0. The results of this study are as follows: 1. The advantage of on-line shopping includes low price and purchasing convenience, etc. On-line shoppers mostly purchase clothing items, such as T-shirt and slacks. In most cases, texture of fabrics provides a main cause for the shoppers' discontentment with internet shopping. 2. The results of t-test for the difference of the evaluation score show that plain or pile weave and highly thick or thin fabrics-for example, Organdy, Corduroy, Nylon Taffeta, Plush, etc.-have a large difference between on-and off-line image. On the other hand, medium-thick twill weave-for example, Tweed, Flannel, etc.-or patterned weave-Chiffon, Dobby fabric, etc.-shows a small difference. 3. The results of correlation of the evaluation score indicate that wool twill fabrics like Tweed, Saxony, and Polafleece show a high correlation between two kinds of evaluation score. In texture preference, no correlation exists between on-line and off-line. 4. With an analysis on fabric image evaluation by fabric characteristics, smooth, shiny pink Satin was found the most positively-evaluated item in all evaluation fields except in pattern preference and individuality. On the other hand, thick olive green Corduroy was evaluated most negatively in the fields of elegance, luxury, and feminine. 5. When compared with real ones, thin fabrics provide a different on-line fabric image. For example, Nylon Taffeta and Organdy were evaluated positively on-line because of luster and pastel tone color. However, lusterless uneven cotton Seersucker was evaluated negatively. 6. Real fabrics preference is more negative than on-line ones. In addition, patterned or unique fabrics display a high agreement between the two kinds of images.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.53 no.4
• /
• pp.113-129
• /
• 2003

This study examined textiles used for the ancient costumes that are excavated from tombs of the Chosun dynasty, focusing especially on Po(overcoat). The result of the study is that silk occupies 79.8% of all the textiles used for Po, and cotton and linen follow. The weaving method of silk was primarily plain and satin weaves. However the use of twill, gauze, and double weave, that had led weaving methods of silk during the Koryo dynasty, are considerably decreased in Chosun dynasty. Danlyeong(단령) and Cheollik(첩리) had been made of various textile fabrics like cotton, linen, silk and blended fabric before Imjinwaeran(임진왜란). After the war, they were simplified in gauze weaved silk or satin weaved silk, And also patterned fabric were widely used for them than other Po. Simple fabrics like cotton, linen and plain weaved silk had been used for Aekjureum(액주름) and Jiklyeong(직령) before Imjinwaeran. After the war, Jiklyeong was used as underwears of Danlyeong, so it was made of high quality patterned silk. Dopo(도포) and Changuiryu(창의류) were mainly excavated from tombs after the war, high quality plain weaved silk are used than gorgeous Patterned silk. For the Dopho(답호) and Bansuui(반수의), before the war, they were made with various textiles such as plain weaved silk, twill weaved silk, satin weaved silk, cotton, linen, and blended fabric. But after the war plain weave was mainly used. In Jangui(장의), since it was mostly for women, many kinds of women's patterned silk were used in than any other Po. There were only a few excavation of Simui(심의) and most of them were made of ramie and were hemmed in black satin without pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.36
• /
• pp.53-75
• /
• 1998

The kind, the structure, and the motif of the Chosun dynasty's fabrics found mainfy within the Buddhist statues were studied. The total of 62 pieces of fabrice can be classified chronologically as follows ; 27 pieces in the year of 1431, 20 pieces of 1550, 9 pieces of 1664, and 6 pieces of 1735. These 62 fabrics also categorized by the weaving method as follows; 27 plain weaved, 17 twill weaved, 10 pieces of satine weaved, 7 pieces of Leno weaved, and 1 piece of double weaved fabrics. Most of the studied fabrics were silk, the rest were 2 pieces of yam and 1 piece of cotton, Kyun, Chu, and Cho were the plain weaved silk as Nung and Ki were the twill weaved silk, Satine weaved silk was called as Dan and double weaved silk was called Chikum in the Chosun dynasty. 1. The antique fabrics were composed of mainly silk. This is believed due to the utmost devotion to the buddhist statue as an object of worship. 2. In the fabric's structural point of view, th ecrossed 4-ply threads of warp yarn which is one of Leno weaved can be observed fre-quently in the period of Korea dynasty's fabrics. But it started to disappear in the beginning of Chosun dynasty, since only one piece of Ra could be found in the 1431's fabrics. Keum, one of the double weaved structure is assumed to be extinct from the Korea dynasty. Satin weaved fabrics started to be woven from the latter period of Korea dynasty and was very popular in Chosun dynasty. 3. The widths of fabrics in the Chosun dynasty gradually decreased compared with those of Korea dynasty.

• Composites Research
• /
• v.31 no.5
• /
• pp.276-281
• /
• 2018

In this paper, elastic behavior of woven fabric composites with various fiber yarn structure were predicted through a theoretical calculation model. A representative volume elements (RVE) that can represent the mechanical properties of the woven composites were selected and crimp angle of the weave yarn was defined by several sinusoidal functions. The effective material properties of the woven composite such as young's modulus, shear modulus and poisson's ratio was predicted by classical laminate theory (CLT). The fiber volume fractions were calculated according to the shape and pattern (plain, twill weave) of the fiber yarn, and the elastic behavior of each woven composite was obtained through a theoretical calculation model. Also, to verify the theoretical predictions, woven composite specimens of plain and twill weave were fabricated by vacuum assisted resin transfer molding (VARTM) process and then mechanical test was conducted. As a results, a good correlation between theoretical and experimental results for the elastic behavior of woven composites could be achieved.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.50 no.8
• /
• pp.5-16
• /
• 2000

This study attempts to examine compound weave among silk fabrics of Cho-Sun Dynasty. These silk fabrics have colorful patterns. They can be classified into two types by their texture structure one is called polychrome woven silk of which structure is plain or twill fabric : another is called satan damask of which structure is stain fabric. Their texture structure consist of warp and weft. In addition. there are other types of warp and weft for pattern structure ; various twill structures were used for patterns. A variety of colorful threads, including gold and silver ones. are used fur patterns in them. The brocaded-type fabric was primarily developed during Won Era of China. It was most developed in Ko-Rye Kingdom. During that era flat strip was used the most but its length was usually not long enough to finish one pattern. However, wrapped thread was increasingly used during the middle and later period of Cho-Sun Dynasty due to the development of weaving technology for gold thread. The brocaded-type fabric was produced in Korea and it was also Imported from China according to some record. There are some domestic empirical documents that show the names of imported Satin Samite, Brocaded satin and these are good evidence to prove the nationwide use of the cloth during Cho-Sun Dynasty. The density ratio of warp and weft is almost same except Samite in the third and Satin with flower motif in the second period is most density among them. C·F of Brocaded satin with Mang motif in the third period values the highest price. Brocaded satin, used with both gold and silver threads, is thickest.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.43 no.5 s.207
• /
• pp.43-55
• /
• 2005

This research was designed to investigate and compare the characteristics of preferred clothing textiles for slacks and skirt of college students. One hundred five subjects majoring in fashion design were surveyed and the subjects selected three favorite materials among 120 samples presented in a swatch book. The subject's weighted frequencies were added tv order of preference. The results of this study were as follows: 1. In the spring and fall seasons, black twill cotton drill was preferred foremost as a textile for slacks, and medium gray basket weaved cotton pinhead with stripe pattern was preferred as a textile for skirts. 2. In summer, dark bluish gray plain linen crash was the most preferred material for slacks, and pale yellow plain linen tropical cloth was preferred for skirts. 3. In winter, olive gray cotton corduroy was the most favorite textile for slacks, and moderate brown twill wool hound check was preferred for the skirt. 4. In thickness and weight, textiles for winter were thicker and heavier than those chosen for other seasons, and textiles for skirts showed various thicknesses and weights as compared with those of slacks. 5. In fiber content, natural fibers such as cotton and wool were preferred for an seasons. 6. In the weave of textiles, twiu we,3ve was preferred for spring, fall and winter season, and plain weave was preferred for summer. 7 The most preferred colors for slacks were B and PB, and those for the skirts were YR and PB. For color characteristics, solid fabrics were generally preferred, and patterned fabrics were preferred for skirts as compared with slacks.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.40 no.6
• /
• pp.1025-1033
• /
• 2016

It is important to compare and analyze digital camouflage from different countries to promote the continuous development of a camouflage combat uniform. This effort should lead to developing a camouflage pattern suitable for the domestic environment and expand its performance of night camouflage. This study investigates digital camouflage by comparing camouflage fabrics sampled from Korea and eight other countries (USA, UK, Singapore, Croatia, Colombia, and Mongolia) in terms of textile, near-infrared reflectivity of colors, and color distribution. First, the fabric construction of camouflage from Korea, UK, US, Singapore, Span, and Croatia were all characterized by derivative plain weaves, while derivative twill weaves were generally used in Croatia and Mongolia. It is assumed that derivative plain weaves are adopted to improve the tearing strength of fine yarns. However, twill weaves enhance the flexibility of coarse yarn fabrics. Next, reflectivity change was analyzed based on camouflage color. The reflectivity of a combat uniform in Korea, Colombia, Croatia, and UK increased before 780nm in the visible light range, but remained consistent from 800nm which falls under the near-infrared range. In contrast, camouflage samples in Mongolia, Span, Singapore and USA showed a gradual increase of reflectivity in the near-infrared range. Finally, the color distribution analysis of digital camouflage found that camouflage of countries with desert or woodland combat settings dominantly contained brown colors. It indicates the color pattern consideration of different geographic regions is important to determine camouflage performance. This research involves basic study that will have implications for developing patterns and colors suitable for the South Korean environment and expand its use as night camouflage that helps achieve continuous improved camouflage performance.