• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제4권2호
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• pp.139-161
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• 2002

This study investigates the characteristics of Nordic sweaters works from a historical perspective. Specifically, this study deals with the following research topics: 1) development of Nordic sweaters, 2) the characteristics of Nordic sweaters industry according to the change of times, 3) the comparison of local knitting patterns, 4) the symbolic meaning of the designs in the Nordic sweaters and patterns. The results of the study are summarized as follows. 1. Knitted work developed mostly in Northern Europe, a cold area, and the barren, mountainous coastal areas where people frequently used woolen materials for clothes. It was also developed in Scandinavian regions which lead the fashion in modern days. Scandinavian knitting techniques have been diffused into the east coast of England and Northern Europe by Vikings. 2. Scandinavian countries are distinguished from other countries by their conservative but creative cultural tradition. Their knitting patterns are characterized by small geometric figures such as dots, triangles, squares, rhombuses, and crosses used often with stars and roses. Scandinavian knitting is also salient for its vertical stripes and simple motifs repeating at short intervals. 1) Norway ; Simple and geometric Norwegian patterns are classified into three groups of motifs: (a) the motifs of cross, diamond, X, and swastika (equation omitted). (b) the motifs of human figures, animals and birds, (c) floral motifs (especially eight-petal roses). Their use of color is also simple, and is limited to more than two colors. (2) Sweden ; Swedish patterns are colorful and geometric. They are characterized by features such as brocade, complex embroidery, and contrast of red and black colors. They also show Guernsey patterns. Initials and production years were knitted in sweaters which have different patterns in their trunks and sleeves. 3) Denmark ; The Danish pattern is the purl stitch knitted against the stockinette stitch. The technique is used to copy woven damask motifs. The patterns are seen most clearly when they are knit with smooth yarn. The Faeroe sweaters are the representative work of Danish knitting. Faeroe knitting, incorporates stranded pattern and is knit in the round, either with circular needles. 4) Finland ; Finnish patterns are similar to Norwegian patterns. Finnish knitted work show very colorful, variety and free-flowing geometric patterns. 5) Iceland ; Icelandic knitting shows original ribbon pattern. Lope sweater is the representative work. 3. The traditional knitting patterns not only carried symbolic meanings but also served as means of communication. First of all, patterns had incantatory meanings. Patterns were symbolic of one's social standing, too. The colors, motifs and their arrangements were very important features symbolizing one's social position or family line. People often communicated by certain pieces of knitted work or patterns. In short, the knitted work in the Nordic sweaters served the function of admiring the beauty of nature and symbolizing various meanings. The unique designs and colors of the knitted work reflected the characteristics of the culture those works belonged to. This study also turns our attention to the issue of how the traditional colors and designs of the knitted work can contribute to the development of modern designs, and by doing so, if makes us realize the importance of knitted works in modern society.

• 복식
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• 제60권10호
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• pp.16-27
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• 2010

Business Casual has been launched because of 'Friday Wear' in the 1990s and in Korea, the business casual has been settled under the influence of the five-day work week. The idea of business casual is that 'Business' and 'Casual wear' are combined. It is the attire that people should wear the jacket for formality and people can wear both on or off duty. As a result of the analysis, based on this, of the characteristics of men's business casual appeared in Seoul collections from 2009 till now, they can be classified in 'Classic & Traditional business casual', 'Modern business casual', 'Natural business casual', 'Feminine business casual' and 'Sporty business casual'. As a result of the analysis of the design characteristics of the Korean men's business casual and the trend, based on the content of the analysis of Seoul Collection, 'Classical Classic & the Traditional', 'Modern of the Contemporary design', 'Natural of the Natural design' and 'the Sporty business casual of the Separate Coordination' including jeans, have presented themselves. Also, as a result of the analysis of Korean business men's business casual according to the classification of the design characteristics in Chapter III, 'Classic & Traditional business casual' account for the majority and then 'Sporty', 'Modern' and 'Natural business casual' account for the rest in order. 'Feminine business casual' hasn't presented itself. As a result of the comparative analysis of the design characteristics in Chapter III & IV, Korean business men's business casual has been concentrated on 'Classical & Traditional' and the design characteristics have not appeared in variety. There has been no such audacious attempt, and items, the characteristics of coordination, colors and materials are not in variety compared to the collection. Meanwhile, as a result of the subsistent characteristics of Koran business men's business casual, the characteristics of business men's business casual can be said to represent themselves in "Separate Coordination with the previous items of formal suits".

• Human Ecology Research
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• 제62권1호
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• pp.121-135
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• 2024

By reviewing the cultural and historical literature on persimmon juice dyeing and Galot in Korea and Japan, this study aims to show the similarities and differences between the traditional and eco-friendly persimmon juice dyeing practices of these two countries and suggest a direction for the development of modern Galot. The root of persimmon dyeing in Korea is presumed to have begun around the 13^th or 14^th century; however, no documents or records have been found to support this notion. Meanwhile, there are records of persimmon dyeing in Japan that date back to around the 10^th century, but that fact is rarely mentioned. The historical and folk cultural significance of traditional persimmon dyeing in Japan and Korea was different in terms of the use of persimmon dye and the wearing of Galot. In other words, in Korea, Galot was mainly used as work clothes for farmers and fishermen, who took advantage of the garment's functional strength, while kaki-tannin in Japan was applied to fishing tools and industrial materials. Furthermore, Japanese traditional Galot (Kakigoromo) was worn by monks. This was a remarkable difference in that the garments were used as clothing by a special class within society. There were also differences between the two countries in terms of their use of modern persimmon juice dye and Galot. Korea is currently developing and releasing a variety of modern Galots. Meanwhile, Japan is attempting to develop a feeling of relaxation by using the natural colors of Kakisibu dyeing and applying sophisticated traditional pattern printing techniques to modern Galot.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.99-108
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• 2017

In modern society, the succession and development of tradition can be an enabler of the state in the flow of culture, and the process of modernizing traditional costumes is meaningful work. Neckties are essential in modern Korean men's wear, and they are an important part of men's ornamentation. Accordingly, this study aims to present a necktie design that applies the traditional men's ornaments such as the Ip, Ipyoung and Manggeonsik. The research method is based on a literature review and presents four Korean necktie designs via Adobe Illustrations. As a result of analyzing the beauty of the traditional Korean men's ornamentation, it was categorized into rhythmical beauty, emphasis beauty, and natural beauty. Applying this to necktie design, Design 1 imagined the silhouette of a man wearing a Got and Durumagi. This applied emphasis beauty. Design 2 applied the shaking images of Got and Got-kkeun to apply rhythmical and emphasis beauty. Design 3 applied a man's upper body silhouette and the shape of wearing a Got. This was to apply natural beauty and emphasis beauty. Design 4 applied the shape of Got-kkeun and Gwanja to rhythmical beauty and natural beauty. The significance of this study is that the development of necktie designs using formative Korean elements can be a part of efforts to recognize the possibility of traditional Korean culture and to explore developmental directions under the current situation in which Western clothing is accepted without thought. It is a good idea to suggest the possibility of the modern use of Korean men's ornaments.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권3호
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• pp.325-335
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• 2013

This work develops a motif design integrated with geometrical patterns in traditional ddeoksal and that can be applied to a scarf design so that traditional elements unique to Korean culture can be developed further for a modern application to various design fields. For the research method, literature reviews on op art and traditional ddeoksal were conducted with Adobe Illustrator CS3 and Adobe Photoshop CS3. As for the motif combination, such applications were taken as five pieces from the works of Victor Vasarely and some traditional ddeoksal shapes such as oblique line pattern, taegeuk pattern, and geometrical pattern. Abstract and geometrical images were borrowed from op art and ddeoksal for image expression. The total number of works selected was eleven. To realize the applied scarf design, a motif layout was performed with the scarf center or rim highlighted so that each design feature could be remarkable based on the motif combination. With the function of scaling, rotation, opacity control, filtering effect, the changed images were shown through motif distortion. In addition, this work applies a single combined motif to products for a possible transformation into handkerchiefs and boutique scarfs in the case of smaller sized scarfs.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제25권1호
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• pp.108-132
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• 2021

The objective of this study is to develop and present the modern men's hip-hop fashion designs using the design elements of Hanfu which is a traditional culture of China as a motif by applying the SCAMPER technique. In the research methods, this study conducted the literature review and work production. In the process of work development, first, after setting up the concept, a design map was produced. Second, the characteristics of hip-hop fashion style and the design elements of Hanfu were organized. Third, this study developed the hip-hop fashion designs reinterpreting the design elements of Hanfu into modern hip-hop styles by applying the SCAMPER conception list. Fourth, Fourth, of the developed designs, the finally decided upon designs were produced into real six articles, which included a T-shirt, shirt, zippered sweater, jumper, denim jacket, long jumper, denim pants, baggy pants, and short pants. This study offers the possibility of developing Chinese hip-hop fashion design targeting the emerging Chinese hip-hop fashion market by suggesting hip-hop fashion designs with the characteristics of Chinese traditional culture.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제27권1호
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• pp.109-116
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• 2018

Prairie style houses in first stages of Frank Lloyd Wright's architecture activity pay a leading role in the process of house modernization as reflecting social and economic circumstances of the time based on traditional house style of the States. Wright's first work after retiring from L. Sullivan's office, Winslow house in 1983 is pioneering work predicting prairie house. This is because this house has only one modern architecture language of Wright and follow no style prevailing of the time. So, a researcher analyse Winslow house within the framework of functional thinking and new formative value creation in the modernization process of western house. Through this, The goal of this study is to find out modern characteristics and the meaning of Winslow house in modernization process prior to the 1900s. Firstly, the followings are modern characteristics of Winslow house. First, Winslow house has original planning breaking from custom based on modern functional and reasonable thoughts, and has practical space reflecting resident's inner demand. Second, Winslow house has modern new plastic value through original exterior breaking from custom and integrated shape of inner-outer space and structure. Secondly, the followings are the meaning of Winslow house in modernization process prior to the 1900s. First, Wright intend to suggest directions of residence modernization through Winslow house before designing Prairie style houses in earnest. Second, mixing of modern vocabulary and eclecticism show a sign of residence modernization process on the time. Third, inner-outer flowing space, opening space concept of Winslow house has innovative meanings predicting spacial characteristics of modern architecture.

• 복식
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• 제35권
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• pp.91-109
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• 1997

This study was conducted to find a more rational way of inheriting and developing tra-ditional Korean HanBok children wear by means of looking at the color and shapes of traditional Korean HanBok and also to find a way to apply this to today's children HanBok wear. The process taken was first to study re-lated literature and its theories and to research museums to find what few traditional HanBok there are and then to compare these findings with new books and personal pieces kept by individuals. We also compared with HanBok children wear now sold at markets. The results of these findings show the fol-lowing conclusions and recommendations: We have found that modern children HanBok utilized the same yellow blouse and red skirt combination as before. These nearly in all cases represented the colors for girls. To most koreans these combination colors are a representation of traditional children wear nat-urally accepted by most koreans without any resistance. Also a definite relation with tra-ditional and modern children wear in the sense of color and shape wear hard to substantiate but we could find harmony between the two. In other words a mixture of modern shapes and traditional colors could be found or vice versa. This is an important factor to be con-sidered when trying to inherit traditional hanBok cuture. Modern times has seen great change in lifestyle feelings and social environ-ment,. In order to create harmony between tra-dition and present day customs a certain mix-ture is required. Therefore we need to maximize traditional flavor and design with present day design emotions. Another issue is that right now children hanBok is only being utilized on a restricted scale. It is a shame that in today's children HanBok that added to the skirt pants and overall wear that the head wear purse and other accessories are not being used. There-fore the HanBok culture especially for the correct succession of children hanBok must refrain from such restricted use of accessories and work to advertise the widespread use of proper Hanbok wear thereby upholding the rightful use of HanBok. As I have mentioned in my other studies it is ones momory of early HanBok wear which greatly affects a grown-up so we should wear hanBok in the right way from an early age and become accustome to its shapes and colors thereby become friendly with traditional HanBok wear. This I believe will lead to overcoming prejudice and disapproval of hanBok and to a more affirm-ative view towards our cultural heritage, Looking from a design point of view inter-national design of a nation's traditional wear can only come from a correct understanding of ones traditions this then becoming a foun-dation for creative design. Seen from these aspects a re-cretion through the meaningful activities of studying traditional shapes and colors of hanBok is the beat way to forming a true HanBok tradition.

• Journal of Ship and Ocean Technology
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2001

As Indonesia determines to increase its marine fishery production, the development of tradi-tional boatyards has to be included in the agenda as it will give the local fishing communities a better chance to compete with large capital intensive fishing companies. It will also spread job opportunities evenly throughout the country instead of concentration fishing vessel con- struction in a few large shipyards located primarily on the highly populated island of Java. However development every single boatyard in indonesia would not only be prohibitively ex-pensive, but it would also create social tensions as the introduced technology would not be immediately accepted by the rural societies whose own traditions are still culturally signif-icant. Both these problems can be reduced by developing a collaborative scheme between traditional boatyards and a larger shipyard. The shipyard, with modern facilities, can develop work packages containing knock down components which are then assembled in the tradi-tional boatyards. The work packages are planned and designed so that every component can be assembled with relatively simple tools. Radical changes can be avoided as new techniques can be introduced gradually, responding to the boatyard\\`s own requirements and aspirations. While this manufacturing procedure is conceptually straightforward its efficient implemen-tation is in practice complicated by the fact that each traditional boatyard has unique char-acteristics in terms of labour resources, technological capability, and transportation links. By developing a computer model to simulate the interaction between the main shipyard and small traditional a computer model to simulate the interaction between the main shipyard and small traditional boatyards work packages can be designed that ensure that activities at all manufacturing locations are efficient.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권6호
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• pp.613-625
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• 2007

Globalizing the Japanese fashion successfully, Hanae Mori's work awoke the western fashion world's nostalgia towards the East. Analyzing the aesthetic characteristics of Hanae Mori's clothes what kinds of aesthetic characteristic that her work had and what kinds of influences that she made in the modern fashion would provide substantial contribution of the world's modern fashion. This study provided forms and remarkable features of Japanese traditional custom, revealed Hanae Mori's life and her philosophies of fashion, and defined Hanae Mori's aesthetic characteristics by analyzing her work from 1970's until the retirement, July 2004. Methods of this study are completed by documentary records of Hanae Mori, research papers and fashion magazines that are published domestically and internationally, and collected materials from internet. The results of analysis are epitomized as below. Hanae Mori was the first Japanese fashion designer who expressed the characteristics of traditional Japanese custom with modernity sprit. In the 60's and 70's, especially in the U.S. and European fashion market, she inspired western fashion designers by her original sprit of art: combining Japanese tradition which showed distinctive color and spirit of nature and the western beauty. Hanae Mori created new dress molding from the Kimono's unstructured feature. Her layered look dressing, oblique adjustment and Obi, and others all enabled Mori to express Japanese image into modern fashion. Additionally, in terms of traditional Japanese image being acknowledged world-widely, she played a major contribution in world fashion by suggesting a new vision and raised several sensations in fashion artistry and modeling. Amongst her various patterns, Hanae Mori had butterfly patterns in most of her works, which was her representative symbol. This spoke for her strong will and senses of duty that wanting to inform beauty of Japanese women who were reflected in modern and graceful butterfly patterns. Flowers were another element that symbolized Mori. Using various flower motifs that bloomed in every different four seasons, she connected two images into her fashion; beauty of the nature and enlightening image of vibrating life. The aesthetic characteristics of Hanae Mori's clothes were defined as five: Japonism, naturalism, feminism, eroticism, and modernism. Japonism which is the spirit of Japanese, Mori used the concept to connect the East and the West. Naturalism represented harmony of the nature and the human. Feminism highlighted Eastern women's beauty. Eroticism emitted feminine attraction. Modernism represented simplicity and sophistication. Such aesthetic character illustrated Mori's original emotion that was based on Japanese spirit and she combined it with values of the East and the West. From the analysis of Mori's aesthetic characteristics, it is clearly recognizable her feministic beauty is emanated by her original emotion and sensibility.