• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.412-423
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• 2016

This paper explores the possibility, and suggests an experimental procedure, of industrial application of traditional textile design techniques, such as hand silkprinting and natural dyeing. Theoretical and traditional background of this study is William Morris and his followers' Arts and Crafts Movement from the late 19th century to the early 20th century, which laid the philosophical as well as technical foundations of modern textile design tradition. Based on the basic understanding of the design philosophy, and starting from the design techniques of Morris and his successors, I made some experimental and systematic color plans reflecting and exploiting the physical traits and structure of jacquard woven silk material fabrics. And I applied hand silkscreen printing techniques on the jacquard silk fabrics of my own making, while testing various color combinations of natural dyes. After finishing final processing of design samples, I could get textile design products which met the criteria of my original expectation, i.e., eco-friendly and aesthetic design samples that can also be produced in automatized mass production system of contemporary textile industry. The conclusion of this experimental study is that I can expect the natural dyeing techniques, jacquard silk fabrics design techniques, silkprinting techniques, and the basic processes used in this study to be safely applied for contemporary commercial textile industry utilizing automatized silkscreen printing system and digital printing devices.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.844-859
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• 2013

This study investigated the characteristics and changes of cotton and silk textile production in Honam district, especially in Gurye, Jella Province from the 1930s to the 1980s. To do this, research method in this study was both literature and fieldwork research and results were as follows. First, in terms of cotton fiber cultivation of Gurye, Chinese Cotton(在來綿) has been substituted for America Cotton(陸地綿) and additionally, Yellow Cotton (黃綿) has been cultivated in the 1930s. Also, in terms of silk fiber cultivation of Gurye, Joseon Silkworm has been substituted for Japanese Silkworm by inflowing the Japanese mulberry tree. Second, in terms of spinning method, cotton spinning has been conducted at every house by an individual tool from the 1930s to the 1950s and has been gradually changed to mechanization by market shop equipped with mechanized cotton gin and cotton whipping tool. However, there have been no changes in silk spinning method from the 1930s to the 1980s. Third, loom type has been changed from the traditional Korean back-strap loom to the treadle loom between the 1930s and the 1940s. Fourth, dyeing was conducted by chemical dyestuff after weaving. The circulation of textile was done through the joint market by Japan in the 1930s~1950s and has changed to the market sales by producers since the 1950s. Fifth, since the 1970s, the outputs of cotton and silk textile of Gurye have been reduced. This was connected with the westernization and the inflow of the synthetic fiber and cloth in cotton and was related to the changes of the nation policy and silk fiber inflow from the china to the Korean farm villages.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.6 s.165
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• pp.985-996
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to analyze the symbolism of traditional Korean patterns which reflect an emotional cultural background of Korean people, to apply modernized and developed patterns to Textile Design for fashion cultural products, and to explore productive direction of developing designs of fashion cultural products. The process of developing Textile Design of fashion cultural products which applied symbolism of traditional Korean patterns was conducted as follows. Firstly, based on '05 S/S-'07 S/S fashion trends, a design concept wat decided(man-urban ethnic style, woman-romantic ethnic style). Secondly, motive was abstracted from selected traditional patterns to develop into modem patterns. Thirdly, items were selected according to symbolic meaning of traditional Korean patterns. Man's items included shirts, necktie, and handkerchief which were highly preferred by Korean and foreign visitors. Finally, developed textile designs were diagrammed by item using textile CAD and an illustrator 10 and presented as images. The following results were obtained. First, textile designs for fashion cultural products, in which apply traditional patterns may reflect the understanding of traditional aesthetic beauty and philosophical approach by applying symbolic significance inherent in patterns as well as the aesthetics of the patterns. Second, traditional patterns have been recognized as old fashioned to consumers because they have been often used for traditional handicrafts or folk products. If their unique shapes are changed or simplified, emphasizing images, and trend styles and colors are used, they will be recreated as a modem design. Third, textile designs using traditional patterns may provide various images and visual effects according to techniques and production methods. Then, the method will be applied to many items. Finally, since traditional patterns in fashion cultural products can be used as our unique design elements, they can be utilized as the source of design inspiration for the development of value-added products.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.43 no.6
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• pp.891-909
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• 2019

This study uses a documentary survey, field survey and textile's characteristics to understand the history of the Punggi Viscose Rayon. Punggi's textile industry grew as people migrated from Pyeongan Province in the 1900s. Little is known regarding early production conditions, but documents show cottage industries in the 1940s made union cloth using silk and rayon. The Punggi weaving industry peaked after the Korean War and declined in the late 1950s. Punggi rayon at that time was mainly used for lingerie or lining, with miliary or polka dot patterns. The industry regained momentum when the power loom was introduced in the 1960s. Manufacturers also started weaving union cloth with synthetic fibers and rayon. In the 1990s, jacquard looms enabled the weaving of elaborately colored and patterned textiles for outer fabric that made Punggi rayon famous. Most Punggi rayon looms have developed in the order of manual handlooms, semiautomatic looms, Jokdapgi, to power looms. Looms equipped with dobbies or jacquard devices also changed from wooden dobby looms to wooden jacquard looms and then to iron jacquard looms. Punggi Rayon currently has its own trademark and tag, but lacks specific regulations on the blending of fibers.

• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
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• v.39 no.2 s.120
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• pp.68-77
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• 2007

It is necessary to recognize philosophical and scientific depth, contained in traditional culture in a correct fashion, in order to succeed and develop our excellent traditional culture. Some studies on storage, circulation, and package design of traditional food will multiple the added value of traditional culture. So this research was carried out for making packing cases of kinds of Korean dried confectionery using Hanji by traditional manufacturing method, Hanji textile, charcoal Hanji and jade Hanji, and for developing environmental-friendly Korean dried confectionery package as more luxurious packaging papers by putting an exterior design on the surface. The results measured physical properties, air permeability and anti-mold activity of Hanji, and designing Korean dried confectionery are as follows. The physical properties and air permeability used to manufacture Korean dried confectionery package, turned out to be no affection to the food packaging Hanji. In order to avoid the monotonousness of Korean dried confectionery package, it was designed with Hanji textile together with elegant traditional pattern. It is estimated to increase the value of Korean dried food and to make the anti-mold activity of Hanji added charcoal and jade effective. In conclusion, by developing individual properties of traditional food and proper packaging paper as well as packaging design according to circulating situation, it is considered that the taste and the fancy can be maximized. After all, by applying excellent traits contained in our race's culture, it is possible to develop the package cases into competitive ones. And it would be able to increase utilization of Hanji. Namely, production of high quality traditional food package with Hanji is expected for new valuable industry of Hanji.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.153-164
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• 2023

As interest in the environment and sustainability increases, a tendency to pursue eco-design is emerging. Sustainable design coincides with the Korean aesthetic sense of applying the principle of the circulation of nature. This study examined Korean traditional furniture, Bandaji, from the perspective of historical and cultural sustainability and extracted and adopted a sustainability-related motif. The purpose of this study was to develop a creative bag design that reflects Korean tradition and strengthens artistry. First, a bag was produced based on the morphological characteristics of Gyeonggi-do Bandaji. Second, though the original overall design was maintained, the decorative patterns were modified by, for example, increasing the number of ear decorations on the surface of the bag and reducing the number of traps. Third, a new geometric pattern was created for the surface of the bag; this entailed moving the position of the handle-shaped ear ornament and the leather. Fourth, new decorative patterns were drawn on the surface. This study is meaningful in that it presents a sustainable bag production methodology that reflects Korean aesthetics. It also showcases a designer's unique, creative, and artistic bag design. It is expected that design work inspired by Korean formative beauty will be an opportunity to simultaneously utilize and support various Korean cultural assets and artworks.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.85-100
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• 2020

Recently, 3D printing technology, which is suitable for small-volume production of many varieties, has become considered a key manufacturing technology in the 4th industrial revolution. However, the nature of 3D printing technology means it is not yet able to be applied to traditional textiles due to Fabric Flexibility. The aim of this study is to investigate Textile Structural Design by finding the optimal yarn thickness for Selective Laser Sintering (SLS) 3D printed structures on geogrid dobby woven fabric that gives the optimal flexibility and tensile strength in the final product. The test results for tensile load strength of the 3D printed test samples, using 1.0mm, 0.8mm, 0.6mm and 0.4mm yarn thicknesses, showed that all were found to be above 250N, this higher than the tensile strength of 180N that is recommended for textile products. Based on these results, the four dobby structural patterns with 3D printing produced had four yarn thicknesses: 1.0mm, 0.8mm, 0.6mm, and 0.4mm. The thinner the yarn, the more flexible the fabric; as such the optimal conditions to produce SLS-based 3D printed textiles with suitable strength and flexibility used a thickness of yarn in the range of 0.4mm to 0.6mm.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.17-31
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• 2024

The purpose of this study is to propose a modern use of traditional culture by developing creative fashion designs that combine modern and traditional styles based on an analysis of traditional costumes of women in the Tang Dynasty of China. The characteristics of the Tang Dynasty women's costume are as follows. The Tang Dynasty women's costume consists of a short coat (衫, Shan), skirt (裙, Qun), half-arm shawl (半臂, Banbi), and short embroidered cape (帔, Pei). The colors are succinct and elegant, commonly red, yellow, green and navy blue in its entirety. It may be classified by pattern that blend plant patterns, animal patterns, geometric patterns, and two or more mixed patterns. On the basis of the characteristics for traditional women's costume during the Tang Dynasty, the CLO 3D program is employed to develop digital fashion design for four pairs of 3D digital clothing and the production of two pairs of work product. The results are as follows. First, the development of fashion design reflecting the design characteristics of traditional women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty of China could be expressed as fashion design reflecting unique values while connecting tradition and modernity. Second, the 3D virtual clothing program displays an extremely important effect in design deployment and pattern arrangement by having efficiency and convenience in clothing production. The CLO 3D program is closely combined with the 2D design and 3D effect and heightened efficiency while being appropriate to realize sustainability while saving processing time and energy for the sample products. Third, the production of an actual product by facilitating the 3D virtual clothing design may lead to time savings and an effective economy and may allow for the comparison of digital fashion design and actual products as well as confirming the effects of digital fashion design.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.100-114
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• 2009

In Honam province, the cultural prototype are largely unknown to the people, also the research on this subject are scarce, the artistic excellence, somewhat under evaluated, both in our country and internationally. It is imperative that we develop the modern design using this prototype. thereby apply it to many areas of cultural products. We should extend the dimension not only to the local festival but also to the mass production resulting in the commercial gains. The Unjusa Buddha festival for promoting the public relation would be greatly benefited by using the concept of the temple, the local prototype, by which we expect to create a ingenious textile design pattern, coinciding with the main purpose of this study. The ancient material around Unjusa come to be the subject of our textile design by way of selecting the most remarkable ones of heritage among the materials of Unjusa. In the long run, the harmonious contrast of both traditional and modern image were sought in this study. Designed patterns were edited using Adobe Photoshop CS3, a multi-purpose graphic program and were simulated in the towel for visual presentation. The design is of two kinds, the one is of the free style using combinations of reclining Buddha, stone Buddha, stone pagoda, and geometric patterns freely not to be standardized. The other one is mixing of lotus pattern, reclining Buddha, and geometric patterns. These designs were applied delicately on the towel, necktie and handkerchief, and the various colors were suggested by the 6 color ways. The brilliance of our traditional cultural property should be noted by these designs and I hope that this study would be a help to develop our cultural prototype and make a product of using the outstanding heritage.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.7
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• pp.67-79
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• 2011

This study is to design a ball-jointed doll costume with historical research in clay female doll's costume from Hwangsung-dong tomb of the Silla Dynasty[新羅] in 7C. This clay female doll's costume was characterized by slim silhouette, long sleeves, no neckline, side slit, high waistline, and bun on the back neck of representative of the early era. According to literature of 7-8C and textile relics, it is presumed that she wore short Jeogori[短衣, Dan-eui] with long sleeves and two layered skirt, and Dan-ryeong(團領) could be added as attachment that is reflective of the time era. For making design costume, Ra[羅, silk gauze] was used for long Dan-ryeong, plain silk and brocade[錦, Geum] for Dan-eui and skirt as a special textile of this period. Waist dart and small snap were added to the costume of ball-jointed doll because of hardness and curvy shape of doll's body, without contradicting traditional value. For better use of this study and cost reduction purposes, development of production system for traditional doll costumes should be considered.