• Journal of the Korean Wood Science and Technology
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• v.37 no.4
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• pp.406-413
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• 2009

This study was carried out to investigate the natural dyeing characteristics of Korean traditional hand-made paper (Hanji). The Hanji was dyed black with extractive of gallnut (Rbusjavanica L), leaves of Amur maple (Acer ginnala), nutshell of chestnut (Castania crenata), and persimmon juice and Chinese ink. And moreover, the Hanji was dyed not only using single and combination of dyestuff but also changing mordants and mordanting procedure. And we estimated the relationship between dyeing characteristics and dyestuff concentration (o.w.f.). The gallnut was the most principal material dyeing black. The procedure of mordanting from copper acetate to Iron (II) chloride and dyeing from gallnut to Amur maple dyestuffs were the best dyeing method for the Hanji to black. The K/S value of dyed Hanji increased with increasing concentration of dyestuff.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.120-130
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• 2011

This study is a fundamental research on the natural Polygoum tinctoria dyeing to quantify scientifically and satisfy the reproducibility of the procedure. By dyeing the silk fabrics, the establishment of accurate dyeing method was sought. At the same time, we tried to modify the traditional dyeing methods, broaden the methods, and apply the dyeing variously. The dyeability and color changes were compared and reviewed according to the changes in the reducing temperature, reducing time, concentration of the reducing agent, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, concentration of NaOH, and the number of repetition of dyeing. The optimum conditions in the dyeing procedure are as follows: Added concentration of the reducing agent is 3g/${\ell}$. Reducing temperature is $60^{\circ}C$. Reducing time is 40minutes. Dyeing temperature is $30^{\circ}C$. Added concentration of NaOH is 1g/${\ell}$. Dyeing time is 30minutes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.59-63
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• 2003

This study aims at developing of textile design expressed not only Korean natural image but also modern sensibility using fabrics dyed by tie dyeing with various natural dyes. And it attempts to practicality of high value-added goods revived traditional beauty. With the aqueous extract of various natural dyes, i.e., indigo, amur cock tree, onion's peel, citrus peel, mugwort, gromwell, sappan wood silk fabrics dyed by tie dyeing. Also various color changes were examined by mordants, i.e., aluminium sulfate, cupric acetate mono hydrate, ferrous chloride. With these fabrics, I made works using the techniques of applique, mola, fabric's connection and weaving. I think the developed textile design gave expression to natural image of Korean nation.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.561-569
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• 2020

In this study, the dyeing of Chrysanthemum indicum Linne alone and the combined dyeing of Chrysanthemum indicum Linne and onion shell were first performed to compare dyeing properties. A combination extract of Chrysanthemum indicum Linne and onion shell can be expected to improve coloration. A Hanbok design for children used a natural dyeing fashion dyeing method to make the Chrysanthemum pattern. Chrysanthemum indicum Linne is a type of wild chrysanthemum with various medicinal effects for headache and stress relief, skin diseases, insomnia and depression. Widely used onion shells have medicinal properties that help prevent and treat various adult diseases. The colors of silk dyed exclusively by Chrysanthemum indicum Linne, and the colors of silk dyed by Chrysanthemum indicum Linne and onion shell extract are yellow; in addition, silk dyed by Chrysanthemum indicum Linne and onion shell extracts were almost all unchanged. Four hanboks, which are comfortable for children to wear and use, were produced using Chrysanthemum indicum Linne and onion shell extracts. If children wear hanbok fashion products with auspicious patterns, they can provide a chance to simultaneously experience the traditional symbolism of Korean patterns and culture. In addition, it is expected to develop pride in traditional dress culture.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.44 no.2
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• pp.93-98
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• 2002

Effect of reducing agent sodium hydrosulfite on the natural indigo on the silk fabrics were examined to improve traditional dyeing method. K/S values of dyed fabrics was monitored with various dyeing temperature time, amount of dye and reducing agent. The dyeability of silk fabrics was improved by using reducing agent, sodium hydrosulfite; K/S value (7.20) was higher then that (1.09) of traditional method at the frist dyeing. Natural indigo dye extracted from dyed silk fabrics are composed of isomer, indigo (67.3%) and indirubin (32.5%). However, silk fabrics showed excellent anti-microbial activity regardless of the dyeing methods.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.1053-1062
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• 2007

This study purposed to restructure representative traditional patterns formatively, manufacture actual cultural products with traditional dyeing technique using persimmon, and commercialize the results of the research. Traditionally in Korea, the dying of natural fiber such as cotton, flax and silk with persimmon was called Galmul dyeing, and clothes made through Galmul dyeing were called Galot. Galot was very useful because it is strong, does not pick up dirt easily, dries easily, and is cool in summer. In addition, cloth dyed with persimmon becomes stiff, so it does not need to be starched or ironed after washing. Moreover, it does not transmit heat under direct rays and is highly air-permeable, so it is cool and useful for standing the heat. In this study, we used traditional persimmon dyeing technique, printing traditional patterns fit for contemporary people's aesthetic sense not through dip-dying but through printing. When persimmon dyeing is used in expressing patterns, it produces not only visual effect but also embossing effect due to the characteristic of persimmon that makes printed patterns stiff, so we can obtain unique texture distinguished from other printing methods. We chose seven motive patterns, which were lotus pattern symbolizing eternal life, peony pattern symbolizing wealth and rank and prosperity, character Su(壽) pattern widely used as a symbol of health, bird and cloud pattern in the Goryeo Dynasty, Sahapyeoeuisohwa(四合如意小花) pattern printed on brocade in the Goryeo Dynasty, lattice pattern, cloth pattern on wall paintings from the Period of the Three Kingdoms. From each pattern chosen as a motive was extracted unit patterns and the original pattern was restored using Adobe Illustrator. Restored patterns were restructured to be applied to cultural products fit for contemporary formative sense. Fabrics used in dyeing were cotton, linen, ramie, silk, and polyester. Although the same persimmon dyeing was applied, we produced different feelings of patterns using various fabrics and in some cases gold and silver powder was added for the effect of gloss in addition to the embossing of patterns. Using printed fabrics we manufactured tea pads, place mats, cushions, wrapping cloth for gifts, wallet, lampshades.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.5
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• pp.51-61
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• 2015

This study examines the types and forms of underwear worn during the Joseon Dynasty period, and the purpose of this study is to apply the Joseon underwear design elements into designs of modern clothes, and make clothes that have practical use. In addition, it examines natural dyeing in the production of works, using a dye that contains tannin to increase color fastness. This study, first, looked into the types of female underwear during the late-Joseon Dynasty period through literature research and literature study. Second, the study chose artificial silk material (rayon), which was applied with dye containing tannin, and then with indigo (Jjok) and a different dye. Also, the study tested color fastness by washing the material, and rubbing fastness was tested if the material was either dyed with indigo. if it was dyed first with dye stuff containing tannin, and then with indigo dyeing color. Third, using the underwear types in the Joseon Dynasty period, the study developed and produced a dress, a skirt and pants that could be worn in modern life on a daily basis by applying Mujigi-chima (underwearskirt), Dan-sokgot (slip), Salchang-gojaengi (loosedrawers) and Sok-baji (bloomers) forms. Dresses applying underwear skirt using naturally-dyed artificial silk, dresses applying Salchang-gojaengi, dresses applying Dan-sokgot, skirt without a crotch designed in the form of pant swith an open crotch, and pant skirt with a crotch-applying pants with an open crotch were produced. In the future, hopefully, various studies of collaborations of Korean traditional clothing, and natural dyeing will continue to kee) the tradition alive.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.3 s.102
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• pp.73-80
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• 2006

This study is aimed to produce natural dyeing garments, which contain the sentiments and color sense of Koreans, by using various household supplies, with a view to increase the values added and utilization of natural dyeing. The dyes mainly used for this study are multi-colored ones which are durable after dyeing and can represent various colors. They include Lithodpermum officinale, Caesalpinia sappan, Rubia Cordifolia, Pellodendron Bak, Curcuma Longa L., fallen Ginkgo Biloba, Artemisia Princeps, and Quereus acutissima carr shell. Considering water pollution and other things, aluminum acetate and ferrous chloride were used as mordants. Cheap and practical materials such as cotton cloth and those with traditional patterns and elegance such as silk and ramie fabrics were used to produce baby goods, household supplies, clothes, and accessories. The produced supplies closely contact with our body, so they may have a great effect on human body. The household supplies produced include rug, bedclothes, room bedclothes, curtain, bedding set, cushion, and sunlight blind, in consideration of the functionality or medical actions of the goods which are closely related to the human skin. The infant supplies produced include longcloth for newborn baby, bedding set, gauze handkerchief, and doll. The clothes include night gown, shirt, bath gown, and Korean traditional clothes. The accessories include tablecloth, cup pad, bag, wrapping cloth, mouse and keyboard cushion, and scarf. Nowadays, consumers prefer environment-friendly naturally dyed garments and products. In order to control the naturally dyed garments and products which are traded in the domestic market, it is urgent to introduce such ecological marks as 'Toxproof' and 'Ecoproof.' Currently, many ordinary persons, who are not experts, have interest and participate in natural dyeing, but they simply produce naturally dyed garments, not artistic works or everyday supplies. The present author expects this study will contribute to the production of household goods by such persons. The author also hopes that they will develop and commercialize such designs as suit to modern tastes and senses based on the unique cultural assets of Koreans, so that Korean naturally dyed products may be recognized as reliable commodities equipped with international competitiveness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.3
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• pp.359-370
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• 2011

This study analyzes the textiles design of natural indigo dyed products in Korea and Japan. In this study, a total of 556 Korean natural indigo dyed products, and 2,730 Japanese natural indigo dyed products were used for analysis. The subjects of this study were 556 natural indigo dyed products and 2,730 Japanese natural indigo dyed products selling natural indigo dyed products which were found using search engine keywords of natural indigo dyeing and natural dyeing. Research and analysis was treated regarding the products, items, patterns, and the representation techniques of the patterns. The results of this study are as follows. In the pattern used for natural indigo dyed products, 71.4% of Korean products have no pattern, but 77.1% of Japanese products have patterns. On the representation techniques of the patterns, Korean products used tie-dyeing and a dip patterned fabric. While in the Japanese products, the most frequent patterning techniques were paraffin dye, followed by tie-dyeing, yarn-dyed and weaving, screen printing, and yarn-dyed and knitting. Regarding the kinds of patterns for natural indigo dyed products, only 8 kinds of patterns were used in Korean products; however, over 50 kinds of various patterns were used in Japanese products. Most patterns in the Korean products were ion patterns made by tie-dyeing. While in the Japanese products, the most frequent patterns were stripe patterns, followed by flower, dot, and ion patterns. Based on these research results, the problems of the textile design of Korean natural indigo dyed products were that most of the products have no pattern, and even though there were patterns, they lacked variations between the products. While in the case of Japan, they used the traditional and modem patterns of various textile representation techniques.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.47-54
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• 1995

Safflower is natural red dye largely used for dyeing on cotton. It contains yellowish safflower yellow and reddish carthamin, whose constitution is known. Safflower yellow is water-soluble dye and carthamin is solved in alkaline condition. Carthamon obtained by adding acidic solution to a carthamin shows the original hue of safflower. In present study, the dyeing behavior of natural dye known as safflower are examined in an aqueous acidic medium by use of the different dyeing methods such as traditional, modern and purifide-powder method. The relationship between the dye-uptake of cotton fabric investigated by the three methods and the various dyeing conditions is discussed.