• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.1
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• pp.11-21
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• 2004

This study examined the kinds, shape, technique, and arrangement of pattern for the Korean traditional women costume between 1995 and 2002. The sources used this study were collected from the magazine “HANBOK, ONGOJISHIN, BEAUTIFUL OUR DRESS” Results were as follows 1) In the kinds of pattern, the most pattern of use was the flower pattern, and the geometric pattern showed the trend of increase. these results mean the use of pattern lately is progressed by the new direction. 2) In the shape of pattern, the style shapes were decreased gradually and the geometric shapes were increased. these results show that the modern beauty is chased. 3) In the technique of pattern. the results viewed that the embroidery technique used in the meantime decreased and the JOGAKBO technique increased. 4) In the arrangement of pattern, the modern arrangement was most superior in the most of year. That is estimated the arrangement of pattern have been chased the modern beauty than the others of pattern.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.1-17
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• 2008

This research analyzes the patterns in modernization of costume that reflects the attitude of accepting the Western culture and the differences in perception, during modernization period (1850-early 1910) in Japan. The Japanese attitude toward the Western costume can be roughly classified into three periods: impetuous acceptance in the early Restoration of Imperial Regime(1867-1883), aggressive acceptance in Rokumeikan period(1883-1887), and the coexistence of traditional and modern costumes after Meiji 20(1887-1910). A Western costume symbolizes wealth and power until Rokumeikan period, however, as it becomes more common, it is considered as an ordinary dress rather than a ceremonial dress. The exact opposite phenomenon occurs to traditional costume. Although Japanese modernization is initially forced by western ideology of power, positive reactions to western culture and changes in perception toward China leads to more active importation of western culture. This reflects the governmental effort such as the Foreigners Employment Policy in the early Meiji period, and the public also became receptive toward change. However, acceptance of the Western culture is only limited to academic and technological areas, while the traditional Japanese ethos(the Emperor system, Shintoism, patriarchism) is obstinately protected. Therefore, it can be inferred that such extreme polarization of modernization and traditional inheritance enabled both perspectives to retain their own characteristics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.5
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• pp.109-127
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• 2002

As modern fashion trends show oriental motif since the transition of post-modernism, a number of great fashion designers such as Givenchy and Jean-Paul Gautier applied the concept of Orientalism to their fashion design. Total fashion is a trend in which make-up, hair-style, and accessories. together with clothing itself are considered a complete fashion as a whole, and sometimes appeals much to consumers. Given that the previous studies on Orientalism have focused only on clothing. this research aims at examining Orientalism with a total fashion approach to simultaneously study make-up, hair-style, accessories, and clothing, and showing that traditional oriental beauty is expressed by total fashion in which the past appeared again through the process of creative application. We analyzed the Orientalism total fashion from 1990 through 2001 and summarized the national differences among these countries in the following. First, China has a uniformed clothing. make-up, and hair-style as shown its traditional play, "KyungKeuk" and traditional costume, Chipao. Second, Japanese unique traditional costume has been passed on through its traditional costume, Kimono, and traditional play, "Kabuki" Finally, in Korea, make-up, hair-style and the design of the traditional costume. Hanbok, as appeared in "Myindo(means a picture of a beauty) Painted in the Chosun Era are applied and reappeared without much change. It is advised to note that the Orientalism fashion to be discussed in this study is limited to China, Japan, and Korea in Asia.Japan, and Korea in Asia.

• The Journal of Natural Sciences
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.123-131
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• 1998

This research was investigated the improved changes of Korean traditional costume after introducing the western costumes in this society. For this study microfilms of Chosun llbo, the popular newspaper since 1920s, and costume magazines for 1950s and 1960s were examined. The periods of the improved changing of Korean traditional costume were divided by the characteristics of qualitative and quantitative changes. Those were two, such as passive period and active period of change. At passive period, the change was not far from the original from of traditional costume and it was limited to the waist of skirt, length and width. But at active period, there was distinctive change from the previous period. Active period is divided by 2 sub-period again. In 1950s, the concept of darts of western costume was accepted to Korean costume and there was the western clothing for everyday costume, the characteristics of Korean costume were added to the base of the western clothing. It was named 'Arirang dress'. Original Korean costume had worn for special occasions since late 1950s.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.564-573
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to investigate decoration techniques applied to the Korean traditional costume of modern style which are shown in special monthly magazines relevant to the traditional magazine. Findings of the study can be summarized as follows. The types of decoration techniques applied to the Korean traditional costume are largely classified into single and composite types. In the traditional costume of the former type, a quite many of gold and silver foils and embroideries are found. While, in that of the latter type, a combination of two different decorations, embroideries and seonchigi or multi-colored stripes and seonchigi is often used. These decoration techniques are usually applied to some parts of the costume like git, kkeutdong or cuffs, somae or sleeves, seop, goreum or coat strings, jacket or jeogori, the lower hem of the skirt and between joined parts in the skirt. Used together with the techniques, patterns are usually applied onto embroideries and gold or silver foils. Most of the patterns are flower in shape. The main material of the Korean traditional costume is fabrics that have no pattern on the surface and are commercially available irrespective of season. Git used for jeogori is largely classified into dangko git and donggrae git in type. Its color is in most cases same as the main color of jeogori. Keutdong for jeogori is usually 4 to 5.5 cm in breadth, classified as type II. Its color is in most cases white. Goreum for jeogori is usually large in length. Its color is most cases same as that of jegori or reddish purple or blackish red purple.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.7
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• pp.167-177
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• 2002

This study revolves around the costume of the Naadam festival worn in the opening ceremony. during competition and the costume of the public. their purpose are two fold. First they are to be the main reference for the diverse Mongolian costumes that have been researched. Secondly, they will help us understand better the culture that revolves around Mongolian costumes. The results are as follows : 1) The opening ceremony costume, The opening ceremony starts with a procession of soldiers with 9 flags. The flags are made from the hairs of white horses and they signify peace and tranquility, ever since the beginning of Chinggis Khans time. The costumes resemble a European military uniform 2) The costumes for competition. $\circled1$ Wrestlers' costume comprises of a jacket with sleeves but no front and shorty shorts of red or blue colored silk, a traditional hat and traditional boots. $\circled2$ Archers' costume comprises of their traditional costume, deel, hat and boots. $\circled3$ Horse riders who are usually children wear a comfortable and simple jacket and pants. 3) The costume of the public : The general public that attended the festival were dressed in a western fashion but differ according to different age groups $\circled1$ The costumes of the younger Mongolian : The majority of the men wore traditional costumes that were appropriate to the festival, the women did not as they were more prone to the influence of fads of western cultures and dressed in a more daring fashion. In addition. the children also dressed in a more modem western fashion. $\circled2$ The costumes of the elderly Mongolian : The elderly, oblivious of whatever season it was, were dressed in a more traditional fashion which is the deel.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.5
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• pp.808-820
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• 2008

The costume of Islam cultural area has been affected by the strict social structure, formed by religion, and traditional costume of Islam has been maintained up to these days under the influence of religion. Islam Traditional Costume, which is the succession of the traditional costume of southwest Asia region, became armed with the form of closed costume due to the chastity and oppression. There are figurative features of Islam Folk Costume; first, the dimensional form due to the ampleness, covering the body, second, the reinforcement of closed form such as chador and burqa, third, the symbolism such as the adornment or incantational ornament, which has been inherited from the former times of Islam era, fourth, the color, simplified with black and white. The aesthetic values of Islam folk costume are represented with 'The beauty of abstinency', suppressing the ornamentation and color, caused by the strict social atmosphere under the influence of the form of traditional costume and religion, 'The beauty of concealment' due to the closeness, with affluent costume forms, covering the body and even concealing the face, and 'The beauty of symbol' which is demonstrated with incantational ornamentation of face and interior decoration. In some nations amongst Islam nations, the wearing of hijab is strictly regulated but black chador and burqa are regarded as negative symbols, representing the closeness and oppression of Islam. It is the product of Orientalism from the western perspective. The Islam Hijab culture is the symbol of oppression towards women, but, on the other hand, it is the device to protect women and the traditional culture, symbolizing the identity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.3 s.112
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• pp.165-175
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• 2007

Religion affects all the dimension of human beings, and at the same time it forms one dimension of human beings. Costume Is considered as a result that reflects the phases of the time and the characteristics of a wearer. Costume, also, has been influenced by religion that has led one's belief, social spirit and culture for a long period of time. The Eastern aesthetics has expanded the area of thoughts with the concepts that originated from Buddhism, Taoism, and Confucianism. Among the concepts, Non-Dualistic Theory is the core idea of Buddhism.'rho theory contains the moaning that one should not lean to one side between existence and nonexistence and should not be obsessed with the center. It was the most powerful Buddhistic idea that had an influence on Asian aesthetics. Korean traditional costume is not an exception. This study has a significance that it was conducted to understand the relation between religious principle and traditional custom through mainly using documentary records. The formative characteristics of Korean traditional costume influenced by Non-Dualistic Theory ran be summarized as non-structure like, indeterminate forms, amorphousness and anti-decoration such as plainness, temperance and achromatic color. Aesthetic value was expressed through 'the aesthetic of emptiness', 'the aesthetic of hiding', and 'the aesthetic of nature'. Although the appearance of a religious symbol can change, an essential element in religion lasts as human society remains. Although our clothing culture has converted to western style, Korean traditional aesthetics is placed deep inside of 'the Koreans' spirit and has a consistent effect on our overall culture of clothing.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.123-132
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• 2009

Our government has declared the "Synthetic Project for Promoting Han-style" to industrialize and globalize the original form of Korea traditional culture. Han-bok, our traditional folk costume is one of the main subject of this project. However it is the global trend not to wear their traditional folk costume. And so, the number of people wearing Han-bok, our traditional folk costume is also getting gradually decreased in Korea. For Han-style Promoting Project in the future, it is one of the most efficient way for the middle and high school students to motivate and increase the interest about Han-style and Han-bok as the middle and high school uniforms. Adolescent middle and high school students think very important their appearance. Especially, Korean middle and high school students spend a lot of time in school, and so school uniforms are very influential in their mental and physical aspects. Fabrics for this study, they were woven twill with 3 kinds of fabric patterns from the motif of Baekje relics. The colors of fabrics is the blue and brown used in general school uniform, the yellow and red used in Han-bok. Considering the school uniforms, fabric patterns adapted the similar color matching method for not to be found cleary and designed the fabric pattern's one-repeat size is $4{\times}4cm$.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.289-306
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• 2021

The study aims to define the Korean Wave as global attention to Korea's unique culture and consider the specificity of traditional Korean fashion images in Korean Wave content. The research method of this study is a case study through literature research. In order to collect Korean Wave content on YouTube, 24 channels with the highest number of views were selected from among content uploaded from 2018 to the present through keyword search, and up to two channels with high views showing traditional Korean fashion images. As a result of selecting the analysis target, 41 Korean Wave videos and 368 costumes were selected and analyzed based on fashion style elements, including item, color, detail, motif, styling, silhouette, and accessory. As a result of the study, music, broadcast, fashion, and other content were found in the Korean Wave content fields in which Korean fashion style appeared, and the characteristics of each field were derived. Music content was characterized by fashion style excluding stereotypes about traditional Korean costume, broadcast and fashion content was characterized by fashion style inherited from traditional costume, and other content was characterized by symbolic fashion style of traditional culture. This study is meaningful in revealing the formative characteristics of traditional Korean design elements recently shared online through the study of Korean traditional fashion images in Korean Wave content.