• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.35-45
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• 2007

This study examined how to create 2D basic pattern of individuals by means of 3-D body figure, which is to develop a flat of individual basic pattern directly from the 3-D body scan data of each subject using that of the upper body of a male adult. In terms of methodology, this study adopted 3D body scan data on system and body to make examinations in the following steps: 1. Standard point and line were set on human body, along with 3-D definition points(feature points). 2. PB was created by modifying horizontal and longitudinal section of scan data. 3. Ways to set reserve were established in the findings of PB planar development. Respective developed flat patterns were compared with pattern findings in previous studies by means of sensory evaluation. As a result, it was found that both system and body model are basic pattern and belong to appropriate pattern as semi-tight-fit basic pattern with overall appropriate tolerances. Thus, this study came to a conclusion that it is feasible and valid to develop theories for flat development as considered herein.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.530-537
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to develop the measuring tool that can grasp the relationship between body and pattern, the result can be directly digitalized and developed as the pattern as body form is. There are 6 measurements; 1) the width of front and rear neck 2) the slant degree of shoulder 3) the degree of protrusion of breasts and scapulae 4) the separation of front and rear board 5) space between body and clothes 6) vertical strand in the clothes Developed measuring tool is handy in un. in which points of body to be measured are small, and it has the capability of designing the high fitness for body. The measurer developed through this study is named as $\ulcorner$Somato-pattern Measurer$\lrcorner$, size paper is named$\ulcorner$Somato-pattern Paper$\lrcorner$and the pattern made by$\ulcorner$Somato-pattern Measurer$\lrcorner$is named$\ulcorner$Somato-pattern$\lrcorner$respectively by our team. The result of this study is thought to make a great contribution to solving the various problems which can be derived in the time of pattern design because of the difference of physical forms in the same size as well as the difference between the factor of size and that of form in body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.3
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• pp.312-324
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• 2011

This investigates the type of pants preferred by Korean men in their 20s through a subjective wear test. Six types of men's pants were developed as experimental garments. The male subjects were university students between the ages of 20 and 24. Subjective wear sensations of the experimental pants were rated using seven Likert scales. A 7-point Likert-type scale was used for the evaluation, with 7 indicating the best fit. As a result, a basic men's sloper for lower body clothing was developed based on SizeKorea 2004 anthropometric measurements surveyed between 2003 and 2004. A basic pattern (A) was manipulated to tight-fit pants (E) and loose-fit pants (D, L, M, and N) by considering the ease at hip level and the style. Among the six pants, pants D and L (4cm ease at hip level) were found to be superior to others in terms of comfort, fitting, and crotch depth. With regard to ease and comfort of the crotch part, pants E and A (0cm ease at hip level) were found to be the least preferred.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.4 s.103
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• pp.65-81
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• 2006

This is the study on the costumes of Parthian Period in Persia which had powerful influences on the Occidental and Western cultures in B.C 3 to A.D 3. With different types of Parthian costumes in each period, this study shows what types of costumes people used to wear and how they were co-related with its surrounding cultures. The ancient costumes of Korea had something to do with the elements of the Northern part at that time. To make an intensive study of Korean ancient costumes, these Parthian costumes which are known to those of northern nomadic tribes are studied to provide basis elements for study between the Korean styles and the exotic styles. The basic forms of the Parthian styles were jackets and trousers. They consisted of three kinds of jackets such as those to be adjusted In the front, tunics and coats. As for trousers, they were divided into three types such as those with horizontal pleats, round-side pleats and vertical pleats. 1) The jacket to be adjusted in the front was long enough to reach the hip and fit the body reasonably tight, and its neckline was shaped into V-type. It was a very popular style among the people of high and low classes. 2) The tunics had narrow sleeves. It was a one-piece pattern which reached the knees. It was settled with a belt on the waist. Its neckline was shaped into the round but its slit was not cleat. Its styles were into tight-fit and drapery ones. 3) The coats were almost similar to the jacket to be adjusted in the front with short length, but they were entirely long and open. They appeared later than the short jackets and the people of high class seemed to wear these styles. 4) 1'rousers with horizontal pleats - They had almost horizontal pleats on them, and they were a little tight. They seemed to be the early style in the Parthian period. 5) Trousers with round side-pleats - With saggy side pleats on them, these trousers had round pleats like a drapery style. This pattern was also considered Hellenistic elements shown in the Parthian costumes. The trousers consisted of the underdrawers and the leggings (called salwar or shalwar), which is thought to emphasize its functionality for its wearer to mount a horse with more ease. 6) Trousers with vertical pleats - With straight vertical pleats on them, these trousers had some volumes and bias decorations in the middle of them. These styles were thought to be worn by the ruling class of the Parthia from early to late period.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.801-811
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• 2007

This study attempts to propose a pattern design of snug fitting midi briefs for women. Each briefs made of two kinds of fabric, cotton 40's and cotton 40's spandex, was produced for the research in a different shrinkage rate. The result of wearing test of the briefs-sold-in-the-market (BSM) and the briefs-specially-made-for-this-research (BSMR) were as follows: BSMR showed a higher mark than that of BSM in the sense of close fit on the torso, comfortableness, sense of being tight, satisfaction and beauty. In particular, the back design line of BSM gave a lower satisfaction to test wearers, while that of BSMR gave a more comfortableness to them, making their hip comfortably being wrapped by making smoother the angle of the straight line linking sidelines with clutch part, and making sidelines into curve. In a forward research, further studies about grading and other patterns but midi pattern of briefs would be examined.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.315-324
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• 2022

This study aims to verify the sewing technology and the expression of the virtual garment program by comparing the appearance similarity between the real and the virtual power shoulder jacket. To this end, the H and the X silhouettes of the power shoulder jacket were selected as the reference designs. After making the reference designs into real jackets by applying the human body dimensions of women in their twenties, virtual avatars and jackets were produced using CLO 3D programs. The results showed that the H-type with only expanded shoulders and less design variation had a high similarity between the reference photo and real garment, the real and virtual garment, and the reference photo and virtual garment. The power shoulder jacket of the reference picture was well reproduced in the real and virtual garments. Conversely, the X-type jacket, which is a tight fit and has many design variations, showed somewhat low similarity in the circumference items and the basic construction line. Especially in tight-fitted power shoulder jackets, the fact that shoulder angles and the essential items for pattern making cannot be reflected in reproducing virtual models was found to be a limitation in increasing the similarity of virtual clothing. Furthermore, the sewing system gap between the real and the virtual clothing exposed a difference in the appearance of virtual clothing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.130-139
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• 2009

This study was conducted to reproduce the Leg of Mutton Sleeve pattern of the ladies' costume of the 1890's for Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size. Nineteen Leg of Mutton Sleeve patterns of the ladies' costume of the 1890's were collected and drawn to actual size. Nineteen Leg of Mutton Sleeve patterns of the ladies' costume of the 1890's were classified into three groups(S1~S3) by the pattern pieces and the bend of the lower part of the elbow line. The S1 was one-piece sleeve pattern and the lower part of the elbow line of S1 was not bent. The gathers volume of sleeve cap of S1 was smaller than S2 and S3. The S2 was one-piece sleeve pattern and the lower part of the elbow line of S2 was bent. The S2 pattern had typical characteristics of the Leg of Mutton Sleeve that the gathers volume of sleeve cap was large and the lower part of elbow line was tight. The S3 was two-piece sleeve pattern and the lower part of the elbow line of S3 was bent. The gathers volume of sleeve cap of S3 was similar with S2. The study patterns of three groups of the Leg of Mutton Sleeve which had the characteristics and the silhouette of the Leg of Mutton Sleeve pattern of the ladies' costume of the 1890's were designed like for Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size through modifications based on the evaluation of dressing on two occasions. The study pattern of three groups of the Leg of Mutton Sleeve were evaluated to have the silhouette of the Leg of Mutton Sleeve of the 1890's and to fit Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size with the sensory test.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.39-48
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• 2011

There still is a limitation in the usage of 3D clothes model in the production line due to the lack of compatibility between 3D modeling software, and its accurate 2D pattern making software, especially for free formed dress with tight fitted zone and draped part. In this study, obstacles in the 3D direct dress design process was overcome by solving the compatibility among each step of 3D virtual design process as well as adopting 3D-2D direct pattern development program called 2C-AN. Efficacy of making 2D pattern from 3D dress design using 2C-AN program developed by the authors was examined during the course of actual dress making process. Accurate ease over the fitted dress part was examined by 3D scanning technology, and the actual appearance of the draped part was compared with the simulation image of dress model. It was confirmed that the entire 3D design process and direct 2D pattern development proposed in this study was accurate enough to use in the 3D design process.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.813-820
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• 2019

This study identified actual wearing and size dissatisfaction with jeans worn by upper grade elementary school girls. A survey was conducted on 147 10~12-year-old girls in order to collect basic data to design a slim fit jeans pattern for upper grade elementary school girls. The result of the study are as follows. Upper grade elementary school girls wore jeans at least once a week, 46.9% were 1~2 times, 31.3% were 3~4 times and 21.8% were more than 5 times per week. The size of the jeans they wear was often one size or two sizes larger than the actual height section. Upper grade elementary school girls preferred jeans that fit well and allow for a full range of motion; in addition, waist and hip measurements were important criteria when selecting size. The preferred length of jeans was those that go to the ankle along with slim-style jeans made of "cotton+spandex". In terms of dissatisfaction with jeans, upper grade elementary school girls showed discomfort when the lower back waistline slipped when sitting and when there was a tight crotch area. In addition, cases of exchange or return were found to be due to fit, including waist, hip or thigh measurements even when the area most repaired is was the pant length.ired is pant length, cases of exchange or return were found to be due to fit, including waist, hip, or thigh measurements.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.44 no.9
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• pp.31-39
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• 2006

This study was conducted to reproduce the two-piece sleeve pattern of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's for Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size. Fourteen two-piece sleeve patterns of the ladies 'jacket of the 1890's were collected and drawn to actual size. The length and width proportion of the upper-sleeve and under-sleeve pattern of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's were similar to the two-piece sleeve pattern of jacket which we see now. The elbow line of the two-piece sleeve pattern of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's was lower than the two-piece sleeve of jacket of today. The cap of the sleeve of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's was gathered and this gave volume to the upper part of sleeve but the lower part of the sleeve was tight. The study pattern of two-piece sleeve pattern which had the characteristics of the sleeve pattern of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's was designed like for Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size through modifications based on the evaluation of dressing on two occasions. The study pattern was evaluated to have the silhouette of the sleeve of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's and to fit Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size with the sensory test.