• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.5
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• pp.741-751
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• 2009

In order to design and develop the various silhouette of pants pattern for standardized pants patterns, this study is to classify the pants style by the silhouette and to characterize each pants pattern which are classified. Recent 37 ready-made pants patterns of various style were collected in order to analyze their silhouette from April to July 2007. Measurement of each region of the pants pattern were compared and analysed. After analyse the standard deviation, coefficient of variance, minimum, maximum, range about the measurement of each region of the pants pattern, major pattern design factors were extracted. Five major factors are the angle of center front line and center back line, the crotch extension, the position of center back line against center front line, the curvature of center back line, and amount of waist dart. As a result, pants style were grouped as the culottes, formal, basic and tight style after considering the extracted design factors, and analysing correlation, degree of dispersion of the measurement by part. As the silhouette of pants classification from culotte to tight, the fits are closer to the figure, crotch depth increases, crotch extensions are shorter, and angle of the center back increases. The shape of the connected front and back center lines is U-shape for culotte and is closer to V-shape as the silhouette becomes tight.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.42 no.4
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• pp.45-54
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• 2004

The Purpose of this study was to research and develop a Pattern of tight Pants, featuring excellent appearance, movement and suitability for the lower body, which are widely used as a basic item for modem dance, aerobic dance and dance sports, and to provide manufacturing data for the pants. This study was carried out with 118 People who majored in dance, using questionnaires asking questions about their understanding and preference of dancewear The experimental dancewear was produced, using 5 kinds of patterns for tight pants on the market, to find out the most excellent pattern in appearance and movement performance. Then, the most excellent pattern was again improved to produce a pattern for this study. The result of this study is summarized as follows. 1. Regarding shops where they purchased dancewear exclusive shops accounted for 97%, their average price was ￦30,000 to ￦50,000(51%), and dancewear separated between the upper and lower halves was most preferred(56%). Cotton span was preferably used for a dancewear material(71%), and their dissatisfaction of a fit accounted for 38% which appeared to be highly unsatisfied with its suitability. 2. When S types of experimental dancewear prepared with a comparative pattern were tested by the senses, it was shown that the comparative pattern of experimental wear number 5 with a strip w3s excellent in movement functions and appearance. 3. The basic items necessary to design the tight pants' study pattern were categorized into waist circumference, hip circumference, crotch depth and slacks length. The shrinkages of 15% in width, 10% in crotch length md 20% in inside leg length were applied, respectively, referring to previous studies and the experimental dancewears' comparative patterns. 4. When the improved study pattern for this study was tested by the senses, it showed higher scores in movement functions and appearance than the comparative pattern did, which confirmed the study pattern's improvement of functions and appearance.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.253-262
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was improvement of the pants fit for obese women. The results were as follows; 5 obese women in their 20s and 30s were selected for the testing 3D body. They showed no significant differences in all items, comparing with the data of 5th Size Korea body dimensions. The average waist circumstance of the subjects' 3D body dimensions was 87.0 cm and hip circumstance was 102.4 cm, and their obese body types had similar mean values. Based on the survey results and the 3D body dimensions of 5th Size Korea body dimensions, a pants pattern to supplement their body type and improve a fit was designed with waist circumference(88 cm), hip circumference(103 cm), crotch length(27.1 cm), thigh circumference(62 cm), pants length(97 cm), pants hem line circumference(44 cm). Based on the detailed design of ready made pants and the study results of young obese women's preference for pants design, pants of straight silhouette and semi-tight fit which have waist line lowered by 3.5 cm from the waist circumference line, 3.5 cm belt width, no front dart and one back dart, were manufactured with 100% black cotton and cotton spandex mixed fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.97-113
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• 2016

This study develops pant patterns using body shape, measurement and shell mesh data to decide optimal women's pants according to styles with excellent size, fit and shape for different individuals and silhouettes. Standard landmarks, lines, triangles and structures were set on a 3D scanned lower body shell to represent women in their twenties and flattened as a 2D pattern. Patterns were created and analyzed according to culotte, formal, slacks and tight type considering crotch shape, location of the crotch point, and adjusting waist darts. Flattened patterns were rotated to compare existing methods. The crease lines were then set through the hip protrusion point and compared. The main factor of the pant pattern were extracted, total rise, crotch depth, crotch width, angle of center line, shape of the center line curve, the thigh width, the amount of waist dart, and crease line position. With going tight style from the culotte, the fits are closer to the figure with minimized thigh circumference, the dart amount decreases, the crotch depth increases, the crotch extensions were shorter, and the angle of the center back increased. The total rise is U shape for culotte and is closer to V shape as the silhouette tightens. T-test of appearance evaluation of the developed pant pattern were conducted after analyzing measurements and shapes of each styles. The results of the developed patterns were superior to existing patterns in accordance to hip line between body and pants as well as appearance evaluation. We found systematic mechanisms among pattern factors that create various pant silhouettes. Evidence on classification of the silhouettes of traditional types of pants were explained objectively through the process of playing out 3D forms.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.116-136
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• 2014

The purpose of this study was to select patterns for slim fit pants, for the following main research, to develop new pants patterns that are suitable and preferable for men in their 20s. We compared and analyzed the patterns of which are currently in the market. We compared 10 different slim pants pattern drafting and analyzed their differences. Then, we examined their appearances and functionalities thru a male model test fitting 10 different samples of the pants. The conclusions of the research results were as follows. We listed the patterns in the following order based on the numbers of items each pattern has, which are statistically considerable for the evaluation to the optimum satisfactory level among the total of 35 testing categories: J > B=I > F=H > A > C=G > D > E. In the functionality test of the pants, we found that it was too tight around the waist and abdomen area with Pattern D, where-as it was too loose around the waist with Pattern C:,-, yet, both of the patterns indicated that it is a good fit in over-all. Therefore, we chose Pattern E, D, C, and G as the existing pants patterns that could be used for further research and for educational purposes to develop a slim pants pattern for men in their 20s.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.4
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• pp.443-455
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• 2012

In this research, a woman matched to the average Korean standard size specification of 21-24 years of age was scanned using Cyberware. Rapidform 2004 was used to separate the body zone into fit zone, action zone and design zone, depending on the function of the lower body. Each divided body zone expanded radially using 'offset' by 1.60mm at the cross section of the waist, and 6.36mm at the hip level. Resultant ease values were 1cm and 4cm along the waistline and hipline (respectively), as recommended in previous research. 2C-AN program and Yuka CAD was used to develop a pant pattern from the enlarged 3D body surface blocks. A total of five pants were constructed using conventional fabrics for light weight formal pants. The appearance of the experimental pants were evaluated by five clothing-major evaluators using a questionnaire that consisted of 21 questions. In addition, functional aspects of the experimental pants were also evaluated by wearer while performing five postures for the measurement of ease of movement. It was found that, the method of regional offset and suggested 3D to 2D pattern development generate reasonably good pant patterns. Among the pattern block arrangements, the method B was evaluated as the best way to generate formal pants from the tight-fit pattern, which fit smoothly over the lower body for maintaining ease of movement.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.5-13
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• 2004

This study was performed to investigate the characteristics of denim pants preferred by Korean women in their 20's through the analysis of the sensory test(appearance) and garment space length. Four kinds of ready-made denim pants of national and licensed brand on sale in Korea were used as the experimental garment. The results were as follows: 1. The significant difference among brands were found in the appropriateness of ease in the part of waist belt(front), knee (front), ankle(back) and the total silhouette. 2. In the analysis of garment space length. the significant difference among brands was shown in waist belt part $(FL60^{\circ})$, hip $(FL0^{\circ},\;FL30^{\circ})$, crotch(SRR) and knee(BR60^{\circ}). However, total average was not significant difference. 3. According to analysis of pattern size, the brand N was out of balance in crotch depth and girth. by which it can be said that N got the lowest score in sensory test (appearance). On the other hand, Brand GU was large in circumference with short crotch length. 4. Therefore, the most preferred denim pants pattern of Korean women in their 20's was fit in waist belt. hip. crotch circumference and a little bit tight in crotch depth and length. As the design was limited as straight style. more design and brands must be included for future study.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.1 no.3
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• pp.19-34
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• 1997

The role of fashion image in modern society is being diversified from product planning to consumer satisfaction. In this research, after surveying female college students, the diversified modern fashion image was patterned. On the analogy of the relationship between these patterned image and design factors, the following conclusion was obtained. 1. The most popular styles are jacket and pants suits, three-piece outfits, tight mini-skirts and X-silhouette. Little decoration is used in general. simplicity is shown as trend by utility fabrics in single color-black, brown, beige and blue-with no pattern. Various materials such as wool, cotton, wool or cotton blended with other materials, silk, satin, knit, lace, vinyl and leather are used. 2. Fashion image is divided into four factors; factors that show fad, dignity, activity and simplicity. 3. Factors that show fad; style of tops, material of bottoms and length of bottoms reflect fad. blousons, three-piece outfits, pants rather than skirts, X-silhouette and mini-skirts are prevailing. Vinyl, leather, knit, lace and satin are the materials well used. 4. Factors that show dignity; Style and material of tops, the way of top and bottom pieces are matched and length of bottom or pieces reveal the characteristics. Jackets, blouses, half-coats and one-piece outfits rather than two-pieces are popular. Tight skirts in natural or midi length or pleated skirts are common. Wool, wool blended with other materials, leather and X-silhouette are design factors that reveal dignity well. 5. Design factors that show active image; Straight pants, three-piece outfits, T-shirts, shirt -blouses, vests, and blausons are popular. Knit and lace are used for tops, leather and vinyl are used for bottom pieces and cotton is widely used. Y- or H-silhouette are used to show active image.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.47 no.2
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• pp.111-123
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• 2009

This study is to explore the usability of a pattern making software 'Looks tailor X' developed recently by the Digital Fashion in line with the cloth simulation software 'DressingSim'. When the software engineers develop software for clothes and clothing simulations, most often they lose touch of real-world craftsmanship of pattern making. As such, the software evaluation of the functionality and the usability is a crucial step in the field of virtual clothing. We carried out a detailed evaluation of the software via the process of making some basic types of pattern including tight skirts, pants, jackets, and one-piece dress. In this paper, we documented a step-by-step scenarios of making clothes using the Looks tailor X, and listed both the advantages and limitations of the software from the perspective of an enduser, i.e., a professional fashion designer. We also briefed suggestions on the refinement of the future software in the field.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.5
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• pp.675-689
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• 2014

This study developed an ideal jeggings pattern with an improved body fit for 20-24 year old females. The results of the study are as follows. First, samples for wearing test were made using jegging patterns from three manufacturers; subsequently, one pattern with a relatively outstanding body fit was selected from the first test. The selected pattern suggested a tight knee, belly, and crotch, high front waist line, and low back waist line. The side lines were also lean to the front; consequently, the front hip width was extended for 0.5cm for more space around the belly and the extended front knee part for 0.2cm to increase moving suitability to fix the leaning side lines. A 1cm front waist line was extended for 0.5cm to fix it lower; in addition, the back waist line 3.0cm was extended for 0.5cm to heighten it. The crotch width was also extended for 0.5cm to add more space. The second wearing test for the fixed forms were evaluated for their outstanding features in appearance as well as moving functions that were proposed as final jeggings forms. The results of the study suggested a jeggings pattern with a better body fit using manufacturer patterns that can be used as basic data for pant patterns with better fitting using various stretch fabrics.