• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제20권3호
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• pp.99-113
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• 2018

In this study, the reality of international Gothic style was examined through the representative art of the period, such as paintings, architecture and tapestries. In particular zones of the body were examined by applying Harold Koda's methods of discussing extreme beauty to study the phenomena and characteristics of extremes in late Gothic costumes. This arrived at the following conclusions concerning the phenomena and characteristics of the extreme appearing in the late Gothic costumes. First, a mechanism of body transformation to reach the ideal and desired form of a human. Second, the complicated and various extremeness of the whole human body. Third, the reflection of 'elaborate and secular excess, decorative taste of international Gothic style. Fourth, a early advanced case of the Trickle-down fashion and international sensation. Fifth, the aesthetic insight into 'ugliness', ever pursued in 'extreme beauty'. The researcher expects that the results of this study will contribute to the preparation to renew the significance of, and to restore the status of the late Gothic costumes, in terms of costume history, that has been considered as an age of the bizarre tastes.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.127-138
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• 2011

The style which is created by grafting the characteristics of goth onto haute couture designer works is called 'Haute goth'. The purpose of this study is to analyze the modem Goth fashion style based on Goth's historical background and characteristics. Also, I investigated the aesthetic characteristics of haute goth style appeared from the work of haute couture designers. Goth means a member of East Germanic people who invaded and settled in the Roman Empire from the 3rd to the 5th century. Goth style had been developed to the medieval European architecture style or the literature style of 18th~19th centuries and later it was reappeared in the gothic band in the late 20th century. Goth fashion shows the characteristics of the medieval times and Victorian times mixed with punk and fetish style. Goth fashion is expressed with the images of fear, darkness, mystique, dandy and eroticism. 'Dark esthetics' is realized through black clothes, pale complexion and silver accessories. Many designers like Alexander McQueen and John Galliano designed 'haute goth fashion' in various ways. The characteristics of 'haute goth' can be summarized in four things. It creates new images, seeks various changes and pursuits newness. It upgrades a street look style gothic fashion to a luxury high fashion and the creative design with artistic value. It also shows an experimental sprit by using a unique shapes, silhouettes, different materials and extreme images or creating new combination through the mismatch of opposite objects or emotions. Although it is rooted in the past because of the influences by late medieval times, Victorian times and Edwardian times, it displays enough of future-oriented historicism designs.

• 복식
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• 제63권5호
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• pp.1-17
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• 2013

As style is the center of subcultural identity and the clothes and adornments are the most visible symbol of its membership, the style of Goth symbolizes the strong subcultural identity and acts as the practical basis to demonstrate commitment to the subculture. In the turn of the third millennium, fashion designers have drawn upon and extracted elements from many subcultures to use in their collections. High fashion designers have introduced the Goth style since its inception in the 1980s. The energy and authenticity of Goth has been considered to be desirable in high fashion. The aesthetic property of Goth subcultural style defeats the established notion of standardized fashion and stimulates new consciousness, which makes room for diversification and subdivision. This study attempts to forecast the trends of the 21st century via researching the diffusion of Goth style in high fashion. In order to investigate the aesthetics and styles of Gothic chic, along with literature research, this study investigates the fashion collections from the late 1990s to 2000s as well as the images of street fashion magazines.

• 복식
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• 제55권6호
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• pp.159-171
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• 2005

The Goth style arouses Medieval syndrome, nostalgia and decadence, considering that Goth style shown in the contemporary fashion rend, tradition and fantasy that appeared in transition of the 21st century. This study is based on documents related to real Goth festivals and events to grasp various characteristics of Goth street style. The Goth style shown in high fashion classified the style on the basis of characteristics of camp culture from the viewpoint of bottom up from non-mainstream to mainstream with catwalk as the central figure. Considering appearance of Goth, property of subculture after the 1980s as alternative subculture as well phenomenon of latter subculture. Also it was possible to grasp attribute of lifestyle shown in music and fashion code from the viewpoint that alternative subculture was in pursuit of individual personality and autonomy. As an alternative subculture, Goth that appeared in UK from the late 1970s to the early 80s is considered new lifestyle, which means the scene of modern underground.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.161-172
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• 1994

This is part of a study on the origin of modernist forms and settings. Forms in Modern Architecture are totally new as though they seemed to be originated from some remote culture. Archaeological studies and Laugier's primitivist attitude to the classical architecture provided a way leading, in the end, to pure structures and abstract forms. An application of the classical elements was combined with the ultimate image of nobility, simplicity and rationality. What the seventeenth and eighteenth century theorists realized in the ruines of the classical structures were not the ones with their original organic vitality but the deteriorated, naked and abstracted ones. The essence of the classical structures has been the one of the main references of the modern white architecture. Ration and Nature were the quintessential terms in the design process of the Enlightenment architects of the late eighteenth and nineteenth centuries as they were in the twentieth century architecture. Pure geometric and symbolic forms were new inventions for the new revolutionary age after the development of architectural Styles, successive until Baroque and Roccoco, ceased to go on to the next phase. Many of their buildings appeared so modem in character, for they were omitted all but the essential structure and decoration. Other sides of rationality in the pre-modern age were evolved in terms of the paradigmatic research and the logic in structure. Durand developed a systematic typological approach to the forms. Geometry was the basis of his designs and his illustrations resembled endless simple geometrical problems. One of the other rational approaches was mainly developed by Viollet-le-Duc. To him, Gothic architecture was the model in which each members functioned actively and exerted counterpressure and the Middle Ages invented new fantastic forms. The several ways of rational approaches in architecture were led to the 'tabula rasa' planning in modern architecture. Nature was remained untouched and not deformed as Ledoux's houses in the $H{\hat{o}}tel$ de $Th{\acute{e}}lusson$ were setted on informal gardens. It is part of the modem image that Nature flows or interpenetrates through the white prisms of the strictest classical purity and machines.

• 한국인터넷방송통신학회논문지
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• 제8권6호
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• pp.159-163
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• 2008

최근의 우리나라 타이포그래피의 트랜드가 다양해지고 있다. 그 중에서 2005년 이후에 나타난 트랜드가 캘리그라피인데 일반적인 담론은 우연의 현상으로 보고 있는 것이 현실이다. 그러나 한글캘리그래피의 태동은 한글타이포그라피에 관심이 있어 지켜보는 관점에서는 전혀 그렇지가 않다. 그 이유는 한글의 기계화가 미국이나 일본보다 늦어서이다. 우리나라는 일본에 병합되고 6.25민족동란을 겪으면서 경제적 자립이 늦어지고 그에 맞는 문화적인 발전도 늦어졌다. 우리글인 한글이 자립한 시점도 1990년 초반으로 컴퓨터의 도입과 함께 한글의 원도를 스캔하여 기본적인 기틀을 구축함과 시기를 같이한다. 80년대 후반부터 한글에 자주화에 많은 노력이 있었으나 소프트웨어적인 문제보다 한글은 하드웨어적인 부분의 어려움을 겪었다. 90년대 초반에는 주로 기본적인 글자생활을 하기위한 명조나 고딕체등 최정호의 서체를 컴퓨터라는 하드웨어에 끼워 맞추는 것이 전부였다면 그 이후 90년대 후반까지는 새로운 아이디어와 기획되어진 서체를 디자인적으로 양식화된 서체를 만들어 보급하는데 중점을 두었던 시대라 할 수 있다. 2000년대에 들어서서는 한국서체회사의 양대 메이저라고 할 수 있는 산돌글자은행과 윤디자인연구소가 새롭게 만들어 선보인 서체들이 산돌글자은행의 '옛멋글씨'(주로 한글개발이후 목판본)를 윤디자인연구소는 서예느낌이 나는 '필' 시리즈를 내놓음으로 손 글씨의 맛을 디자인 시장에 맛보였다. 이러한 반복된 과정은 지금의 캘리그래프로 나가는 자연스러운 원동력이 되었고 이 양대 메이저의 회사의 역할은 지금의 캘리그래피의 시대를 낳는 자연스러운 산파역할을 했다.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제47권3호
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• pp.188-207
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• 2014

홈스봄의 '만들어진 전통'은 최근에 등장한 역사인식의 한 방법론이다. 그에 따르면 만들어진 전통의 특수성은 과거와의 연속성을 인위적으로 내세우려 하는 것이며, 그 과정에서 전통들을 구성하는 데 낡은 재료들을 이용한다. 또한 그는 만들어진 전통은 사회화나 신념, 가치체계, 행위규범을 주입하는 데에 그 목표가 있다고 보았다. 본 논문은 그러한 인식틀을 가지고 19세기의 문화재 보존에 대하여 고찰하였다. 그리고 단순히 이를 적용하는 데에 그치지 않고 한 단계 더 발전적으로 나아가 그러한 현상들의 사상적 배경은 무엇이며, 그러한 현상을 만들어내는 데 있어서 과거에 대한 인식이 어떻게 작용했는지를 사례를 통해 분석하였다. 19세기 중반에 카톨릭의 교리와 의례를 새로운 신념과 가치체계로 주입하여 영국 국교의 종교적인 부활을 이루고자 했던 옥스퍼드 운동과 이를 실천하기 위한 행위규범으로 고딕양식을 종교적 공간에 재현하고자 한 캠브리지캄덴협회의 활동은 홈스봄이 제시한 전통을 만드는 행위에 있어서 핵심적인 요소이다. 그리고 그것이 종교건축의 보존에 있어서 그대로 적용되고 실천되었다는 점에서 전통과 보존은 같은 축 선상에 존재한다. 당시에 과거는 종교적 목적을 실천하기에 적합한 특정시대와 특정한 건축양식으로만 이해하는 단층적인 재료였으며, 과거를 인식하는 틀 역시 종교적인 목적이나 사회적, 정치적인 이념에 크게 영향을 받았다. 19세기 후반의 반복원 운동은 전대의 무분별한 양식적 복원을 막고자 했던 행위이다. 그리고 그 사상적 배경에는 변화된 과거 인식의 틀이 존재한다. 복원이라는 행위에 대한 개념정의가 보다 구체적으로 논의되기 시작하면서, 행위의 속성을 인식하는 관점에서 전대의 과거에 대한 인식이 수정되었다. 전통은, 혹은 과거는 현재에 되살려야 하는 대상이 아니고 현재에도 살아있는 생명체이며, 복원은 그러한 생명력을 오히려 빼앗는 행위라는 관점으로 과거에 대한 인식이 변화된 것이다. 즉, 있는 그대로의 과거, 다양한 가치가 존재하는 과거로 인식하게 되었으며, 그러한 태도가 문화재 보수에 적용되기 시작하는 시대이다. 이러한 고찰을 토대로 향후, 국내에서도 보다 다면적인 관점과 충분한 자료를 축적하여 우리의 문화재 보존사를 이해하고 분석하는 것이 필요할 것이다.