• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.99-113
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• 2018

In this study, the reality of international Gothic style was examined through the representative art of the period, such as paintings, architecture and tapestries. In particular zones of the body were examined by applying Harold Koda's methods of discussing extreme beauty to study the phenomena and characteristics of extremes in late Gothic costumes. This arrived at the following conclusions concerning the phenomena and characteristics of the extreme appearing in the late Gothic costumes. First, a mechanism of body transformation to reach the ideal and desired form of a human. Second, the complicated and various extremeness of the whole human body. Third, the reflection of 'elaborate and secular excess, decorative taste of international Gothic style. Fourth, a early advanced case of the Trickle-down fashion and international sensation. Fifth, the aesthetic insight into 'ugliness', ever pursued in 'extreme beauty'. The researcher expects that the results of this study will contribute to the preparation to renew the significance of, and to restore the status of the late Gothic costumes, in terms of costume history, that has been considered as an age of the bizarre tastes.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.127-138
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• 2011

The style which is created by grafting the characteristics of goth onto haute couture designer works is called 'Haute goth'. The purpose of this study is to analyze the modem Goth fashion style based on Goth's historical background and characteristics. Also, I investigated the aesthetic characteristics of haute goth style appeared from the work of haute couture designers. Goth means a member of East Germanic people who invaded and settled in the Roman Empire from the 3rd to the 5th century. Goth style had been developed to the medieval European architecture style or the literature style of 18th~19th centuries and later it was reappeared in the gothic band in the late 20th century. Goth fashion shows the characteristics of the medieval times and Victorian times mixed with punk and fetish style. Goth fashion is expressed with the images of fear, darkness, mystique, dandy and eroticism. 'Dark esthetics' is realized through black clothes, pale complexion and silver accessories. Many designers like Alexander McQueen and John Galliano designed 'haute goth fashion' in various ways. The characteristics of 'haute goth' can be summarized in four things. It creates new images, seeks various changes and pursuits newness. It upgrades a street look style gothic fashion to a luxury high fashion and the creative design with artistic value. It also shows an experimental sprit by using a unique shapes, silhouettes, different materials and extreme images or creating new combination through the mismatch of opposite objects or emotions. Although it is rooted in the past because of the influences by late medieval times, Victorian times and Edwardian times, it displays enough of future-oriented historicism designs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.5
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• pp.1-17
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• 2013

As style is the center of subcultural identity and the clothes and adornments are the most visible symbol of its membership, the style of Goth symbolizes the strong subcultural identity and acts as the practical basis to demonstrate commitment to the subculture. In the turn of the third millennium, fashion designers have drawn upon and extracted elements from many subcultures to use in their collections. High fashion designers have introduced the Goth style since its inception in the 1980s. The energy and authenticity of Goth has been considered to be desirable in high fashion. The aesthetic property of Goth subcultural style defeats the established notion of standardized fashion and stimulates new consciousness, which makes room for diversification and subdivision. This study attempts to forecast the trends of the 21st century via researching the diffusion of Goth style in high fashion. In order to investigate the aesthetics and styles of Gothic chic, along with literature research, this study investigates the fashion collections from the late 1990s to 2000s as well as the images of street fashion magazines.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.6 s.96
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• pp.159-171
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• 2005

The Goth style arouses Medieval syndrome, nostalgia and decadence, considering that Goth style shown in the contemporary fashion rend, tradition and fantasy that appeared in transition of the 21st century. This study is based on documents related to real Goth festivals and events to grasp various characteristics of Goth street style. The Goth style shown in high fashion classified the style on the basis of characteristics of camp culture from the viewpoint of bottom up from non-mainstream to mainstream with catwalk as the central figure. Considering appearance of Goth, property of subculture after the 1980s as alternative subculture as well phenomenon of latter subculture. Also it was possible to grasp attribute of lifestyle shown in music and fashion code from the viewpoint that alternative subculture was in pursuit of individual personality and autonomy. As an alternative subculture, Goth that appeared in UK from the late 1970s to the early 80s is considered new lifestyle, which means the scene of modern underground.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.161-172
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• 1994

This is part of a study on the origin of modernist forms and settings. Forms in Modern Architecture are totally new as though they seemed to be originated from some remote culture. Archaeological studies and Laugier's primitivist attitude to the classical architecture provided a way leading, in the end, to pure structures and abstract forms. An application of the classical elements was combined with the ultimate image of nobility, simplicity and rationality. What the seventeenth and eighteenth century theorists realized in the ruines of the classical structures were not the ones with their original organic vitality but the deteriorated, naked and abstracted ones. The essence of the classical structures has been the one of the main references of the modern white architecture. Ration and Nature were the quintessential terms in the design process of the Enlightenment architects of the late eighteenth and nineteenth centuries as they were in the twentieth century architecture. Pure geometric and symbolic forms were new inventions for the new revolutionary age after the development of architectural Styles, successive until Baroque and Roccoco, ceased to go on to the next phase. Many of their buildings appeared so modem in character, for they were omitted all but the essential structure and decoration. Other sides of rationality in the pre-modern age were evolved in terms of the paradigmatic research and the logic in structure. Durand developed a systematic typological approach to the forms. Geometry was the basis of his designs and his illustrations resembled endless simple geometrical problems. One of the other rational approaches was mainly developed by Viollet-le-Duc. To him, Gothic architecture was the model in which each members functioned actively and exerted counterpressure and the Middle Ages invented new fantastic forms. The several ways of rational approaches in architecture were led to the 'tabula rasa' planning in modern architecture. Nature was remained untouched and not deformed as Ledoux's houses in the $H{\hat{o}}tel$ de $Th{\acute{e}}lusson$ were setted on informal gardens. It is part of the modem image that Nature flows or interpenetrates through the white prisms of the strictest classical purity and machines.

• The Journal of the Institute of Internet, Broadcasting and Communication
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.159-163
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• 2008

Recently, typography in Korea has been varied. Among them, after 2005 a new trend caligraphy has appeared and in reality people discussed that this has been occurred as a coincidence. However, as a view of one who is interested in Hangeul typography, born of Hangeul caligraphy is not a coincidence. It is because computerizing of Hangeul has been later than U.S. or Japan. Korea was colonized by Japan and experienced the Korean War and economical independence got late and cultural independence got late as well. Our language, Hangeul was independenced in the beginning of 1990's after computer was introduce and original letter of Hangeul was scanned and basic standard was built. From the end of 80's there were many efforts for independence of Hangeul but there were problems on hardware side than software side. In the beginning of 90's basic fonts such as Myungjo or Gothic of Choi Jung-ho's fonts were set for computer hardware, but later 90's can be called as a time for distributing designed fonts for that new fonts that were planned and applying new ideas on fonts were done. In 2000 the two major font company in Korea Sandoll Communication and Yoon Design Institute made a fonts such as When branding had to be done by designer, typo must be written so adjusting size and moving baseline made old style and caligraphy fonts to be born. These cycling process has been natural motive for nowadays' caligraphy and these two major companies' role has made caligraphy to be popular.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.47 no.3
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• pp.188-207
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• 2014

Taking the concept of 'Invention of Tradition' by Hobsbawm, this paper examines the change of perspectives on the past and the attitudes toward connecting the past and the contemporary in the 19th century restoration of religious buildings in England. The Anglican society in the early 19th century argued that the catholic theology and rituals should be revived in their practice, which has formed the Oxford Movement. Such aspiration has stimulated to the society to execute its religious practice in a proper space, which has resulted in the Cambridge Camden Society in the middle of the century. Their publications on church buildings and arrangement had much affected to the restoration of many churches to rip off the previous Georgian furnitures and features of the fabric into Gothic, the style of middle age. The perspective on the past for anti-restoration movement in the late 19th century has moved into the one to respect all historical layers of previous spirit imprinted in the church buildings. Inspired by Ruskin and formulated by Morris, SPAB's Manifesto has reflected that the spirit of the first builder can not be reproduced or copied by the contemporaries, and therefore a daily maintenance is the best practice to extend the life of spirit rather than restoration. In addition the material remains is no longer belong to the religious entity but should be regarded as national heritage. By examining the change of perspectives on the past between the early and middle of 19th century and the late 19th century, this paper has argued that the various factors such as social, economic, political, art and commercial factors should be examined together in the understanding of conservation history.