• 동양고전연구
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• 제72호
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• pp.97-126
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• 2018

<변강쇠가>는 우리 문학 중에서도 성적인 요소의 활용이 대단히 많은 작품이다. 이런 특징 때문에 <변강쇠가>는 단순히 음란한 작품으로 치부되기도 하였다. 하지만 <변강쇠가>를 면밀히 살펴보면 그 음란함의 이면에 당대 현실에 대한 다양한 문제의식이 숨어 있음을 포착할 수 있다. 특히 강쇠와 장승의 대립을 통해 제시되는 유랑민과 지역 공동체 간의 갈등은 현실의 질곡을 드러내는 장치로 쓰인다. 다만 현실의 질곡을 야기한 존재들에 대한 비판이 성적 요소들 뒤로 숨어 그들에 대한 진정한 문제 제기를 불가능하게 만든다는 점이다. <변강쇠가>의 표면이 성적 요소들로 채워지면서 그 속에 문제들은 감춰지는 것이다. 이러한 <변강쇠가>의 성 표면화 전략은 미디어서사로의 전이 과정에서도 유사하게 드러난다. <변강쇠가>는 1980년대에 영화화된 이후 최근까지 계속해서 새롭게 재창작되고 있다. 다만 이들 작품들은 <변강쇠가>의 성적 요소들만 수용하여 극대화한 B급 에로영화의 수준에 머물고 있다. <변강쇠가> 속에 담긴 현실의 문제나 다양한 의미들은 사라진 채 더욱 원초적 자극을 불러일으키는 형태로만 전이된 것이다. 더욱이 이 과정에서 <변강쇠가> 자체의 의미나 내용은 사라지고 오로지 성적 요소의 이미지화만 남았다고 할 수 있다. 그런데 <변강쇠가>의 미디어서사로의 전이 과정에서 성적인 요소가 더욱 강조된 것은 당대 현실과도 관계가 있다. 군부에 의해 장악된 정치 환경에 대한 국민적 관심을 분산시키기 위해 많은 에로 영화가 창작되었던 시기이기 때문이다. 결국 <변강쇠가>에서 나타난 성의 표면화 전략이 미디어서사로 전이되는 과정에서 더욱 극대화되며, 당대 현실을 가리는 장치로 활용된 것이다. 하지만 이후 창극 <변강쇠 점 찍고 옹녀>처럼 새로운 작품들이 시도되고 있다. 이는 획일화된 <변강쇠가>의 기표를 넘어 작품에 대한 향유 방식이 새로운 방향으로 나아갈 수 있음을 확인할 수 있는 기회였다. 향후 <변강쇠가>에 대한 여러 새로운 해석이 더욱더 기대되는 바이다.

• 영어영문학
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• 제57권5호
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• pp.871-887
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• 2011

In Lacanian terms, the real, which is a non-representative Ding an sich, is indirectly approachable only in and through language. This 'speaking of the real' is made possible through a restoration of the missing link between one signifier, S1 and another signifier, S₂, as is manifested in the Lacanian formula of metaphor. In Freudian terms of textual metaphor, the missing link is restored by substituting a new edition for an old edition of one's historical text of life. This is what this essay means by the metaphorical/dualistic structure of the analytic/literary text. And this is a way of talking about an intertextuality between literature and psychoanalysis in the sense of the 'text as psyche' and the 'psyche as text.' Applying the 'signifying substitution' to the Oedipus complex, the Oedipal child can find a meaning(s), "my erotic indulgement with my Mom is wrong" by metaphorically substituting S₂: the Name of the Father for S1: the Desire of the Mother. This meaning leads to the constitution of the human subject and the formation of the incest taboo, one of the most significant distinctive features of the human being as distinguished from the animals. We can see a similar metaphorical structure of S1-S2 taking place in the literary texts such as Macbeth and "Dover Beach": in the course of the stage of life being substituted for the primal scene in the former, and the plain of Tucydides for a bed scene in the latter, respectively.

• 복식
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• 제56권4호
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• pp.1-14
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• 2006

This paper is a perspectiveon the reformative costume expressed by Gustav Klimt who led the Secession Movement as a great master in Vienna. Klimt actively expressed a new costume style in his paintings, which influenced heavily on the modern costume design. This paper may contribute to reestablish the constructive direction for the 21st century fashion design based on Klimt's pursuing holistic art concept. The reformative costume in Klimt's paintings has two characteristics; ornamentism, eroticism, and reformativeness. Ornamentism is expressed with fantastic colors, various motives, exotic features, simple style clothes, and so on. Klimt used independent ornaments to express carnal desires metaphorically, which set ornaments free to lead spectators to the dreamy or elusive state and even have spectators indulged in ecstasy. As the Secession Movement focused on reforming all areas of life artistically, the costumes of Klimt's paintings symbolically express the reformativeness; he portrayed the woman in the early 20th century and sought to reform its contemporary value as a visual sensuality. Klimt tried to disrupt from the former era by over-emphasizing eroticism. The erotic expression with the colors and the style of ornaments substitute naturally for suggestive eroticism of the feminine body. With has creativity, Klimt has spectators extract the various senses from the female image in his paintings. Klimt's creative spirit on the holistic art concept could be helpful to develop a unique design as a catalyst foreseeing over the present.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.159-171
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to compare the characteristic of Chanel style between modern and postmodern period. The documentary research method was used for this study. The modem period was limited from around 1920 through 1939 and the postmodern period from 1990 through present for this research. The results were summarized as follows: The characteristics of clothing style in modem period were 1) the preference of slim & straight body figure as ideal one and slim & straight clothing silhouette, 2) the high fashion image for the elite by simple & basic design, 3) the emphasis on the harmony by the unity, 4) the tendency of eliminating ornaments on clothing, 5) the discontinuation of traditional way of dress code & style, and 6) the modern style. The characteristics of clothing style in postmodern period were 1) the emphasis on erotic aspects of female body and sexy design, 2) the popularization of high fashion and certain social group's fashion, 3) the tendency of harmony by mix-match, 4) the preference of ornaments in clothing, 5) the preference of retro-fashion, and 6) the continuation of modem style.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.73-86
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• 2001

This study aims at reviewing the Kitsch aesthetics, grasping the relation between the Kitsch and consumption culture, and pursuing the intrincis meanings and expressive characteristics of Kitsch in the hair style and head dress in the 1990s. Kitsch generally implies a vulgarity, and a bad taste, and can be considered to be a kind of vicarious experience, the aesthetic deception and self-deception. In spite of these negative inplications of Kitsch, the aesthetic categories of Kitsch have been spread to public and been accepted by the public, with the help of the powerful promotion of the modern day mass media. 1. The intrincis meanings of Kitsch convey 1) escapism, 2) conformity, 3) amusements, 4) identification. 2. The expressive characteristics of Kitsch represent 1) aesthetic inadequacy: hair style and head dress showing the imperpectness, accumulation(superfluous ornaments), vulgarity, untidines. 2) resistance: hair style and head dress featuring deconstructional and violent forms revealing the uneasiness, and unsatisfaction of the given regularity. 3) humor: hair style and head dress featuring the innocence, humor, and fun for a relaxation and diversion. 4) hedonism: hair style and head dress with the erotic and sexual feelings. 5) retro, romantism: hair style and head dress featuring the elegance, femininity, folklore, ethnic, and nostalgia.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.531-539
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristic of men's costume in the Renaissance period. Fashion is a reflection of Zeitgeist. The ideal aesthetic values of each period create the concept of ideal beauty for that period. Costume represents the ideal beauty of a particular period. The aesthetic characteristic of men's costume in the age of Renaissance was analyzed in terms of four categories: the beauty of male body, sublime beauty, sensual beauty, and artistic beauty. First, for the beauty of male body, the men in the age of Renaissance enlarged their chests and shoulders by inserting a pad in them in order to express their masculine beauty of human body by emphasizing their sexual organ. Second, for the sublime beauty, men's costume was exaggerated by using a pad, a ruff collar and slash. In this period, men intended to represent their power and dignity through horizontal extension in their costume. Third, for the sensual beauty, erotic emphasis were made through physical elements. In order to show off sexual charms, men padded their costumes and introduced the codpiece. Last, for the artistic beauty in the age of the Renaissance, men's costume showed proportional, balanced and symmetrical beauty. And men's costume was made of rich brocades, which were embroidered and encrusted with jewels.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권4호
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• pp.62-82
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to investigate the Avant-garde's aesthetic values and expressoinal characteristic, and to find out(analysis) the design characteristic of Avant garde fashion since 1995. Expressoinal characteristics of Avant garde with the anti-aesthetic, radically pursuing newness, and open mind, are revealed dynamism, hostile innovation, and experimentalism. Futuristic images expressed in dynamism represent space style, body conscious style, cyborg style, kinetic style, and primitive style. And deconstructional images related to hostile innovation show punk style, grunge style, humor style, and abstractive style. Also surreal images related to experimentalism hold erotic style, depasemant style, deformation style, and collage style. The proper usage of newness offers the escape, the vividness, and the humour from the fatigue of the life and so, it is expected to offer the chance of transfering the active individuals and societies directly or indirectly By analyzing the instances for the images of avant-garde fashion since 1995, the contribution about the expectation of the design trends of the present and future is expected.

• 복식
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• 제65권4호
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• pp.137-153
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• 2015

This paper aims at developing an analytic model for examining fashion designer's creativity. This research developed the analytic model of fashion designer's creativity adding the specificity of the fashion area to The Systems Model of Creativity by Csikszentmihalyi & Gardener. The analytic model of fashion designer's creativity is composed of 3 elements: the fashion designer, the fashion domain and the fashion field. The detail factors to be examined by each of the elements are as follows. In the dimension of an individual fashion designer, detail factors influencing the manifestation of creativity contain cognitive and non-cognitive abilities (i.e: personality traits, erotic capital) and socio-psychological factors (i.e: family condition, sexual identity, marital status, health). In the dimension of the fashion domain, creativity factors are composed of socio-cultural contexts and paradigms. In the dimension of the fashion field, detail factors refer to a mentor, supporter, competitor and a follower. Fashion designer's creativity manifests itself when detail factors of an individual fashion designer, fashion domain and field interact with each other dynamically.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.1-12
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• 2009

As foundation wear, underwear is the starting point where a woman shapes her figure and constructs a female identity. In the late twentieth century, the use of underwear as outerwear was extensively adapted, so underwear as outerwear is the latest thing today. Based on literature review, this study aimed to examine how underwear was adopted for use as outerwear extensively in the late twentieth century. The result of this study can be summarized as follows. First, originally there was no border between underwear and outerwear at the start. With the change of female social and political status, the function of underwear and its design has been changed diversely. Also, its revealing and decoration has been linked with female sexual attraction. Second, by some precursor fashion designers such as Vivienne Westwood and Jean Paul Gaultier, underwear was redefined as outerwear with erotic but powerful meaning in the Twentieth century. Their idea had an enormous influence on contemporary fashion culture, and consequently has become popularized like lingerie look today. Third, the change of female social status led a big change in view on the female sexuality and the ideas of femininity in fashion culture in the Twentieth century. Dressed by Gaultier, Madonna's performance wearing corset costume played a role in redefining contemporary femininity in relation to sexuality and power, even though it is still under the controversy.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권5호
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• pp.903-916
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to analyze the eroticism of the exposed body and clothing style of Chinese foreign students in Korea and to provide basic information required to design and develop a niche market for the Chinese. A Chinese professor translated 52 questions, which formed a preliminary survey given to 30 Chinese students. Following this preliminary survey, some questions were then revised. The surveys were conducted during 3 weeks starting from the 5th of October. Only 289 of 330 questionnaires were selected for statistical analysis. Data were analyzed statistically through Frequency analysis, Chi-square test, T-test, and Regression analyses in SPSS 12.0. The results of this study were as follows. First, we should consider men's breast, back, and neck line in order to develop the design of men's clothes, and the leg and collarbones for women's clothing. Second, it was suggested that we pay attention to the following articles of clothing to expand the erotic market for Chinese women's clothes: mini-skirts, side slit skirts, and tight-skirts for bottoms; blouses or T-shirts with a neckline scooped out deeply for tops; and see-through one-piece dresses with deeply scooped out backs.