• Title/Summary/Keyword: the erotic

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The Aesthetic Qualities Featured in Vivienne Westwood's Works (비비안 웨스트우드(Vivienne Westwood)의 작품세계와 미적특성)

  • 염혜정
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.37
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    • pp.71-88
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    • 1998
  • This study will analyze the aesthetic qual-ities revealed in the work of Vivienne Wes-twood in order to gain an understanding of the development process and uniqueness of modern avant-garde fashion. Westwood gained worldwide recognition in the 1970s as the Punk movement emerged in London. Although her works have often been described as decadent and anti-establishment, her anarchic view of fashion has had a considerable influence on other designers, both in England and around the world. Vivienne Westwood's works can be divided into three periods. In the first period(1971∼78). Westwood design demonstrated elements which were variations of the subcultural Punk style. The noteworthy designs of this period included ripped T-shirts, bondage clothes, and fetishist accoutrements. In the second period(1979∼83), her designs expressed elements from ethnic and primitive tribal societies through the 'Pirate', 'Savages', 'Buffalo Girls', 'Witches' collections, which inspired New Romanticism movement. In the third period (1985∼ ), through works such as 'Mini-Crini'collection, her works identified elements from the old west and used materials such as crinoline and Harris tweed and contemporized them by rearranging the innovative technique. In the end the news synthesis helped formulate new ideas. The aesthetic qualities in Vivienne Wes-twood's works can bed identified with the following themes : Punkature, Erotic Intelligent-sia, Anarchic Collage. First, within Punkature, Westwood's ideas are at the forefront as her impact on the cut of clothes and creative detailing have been considerable. Also, while her ideas can be extreme, her clothes are wear-able, resulting in the synthesis of Punk and couture. Second, as Erotic Intelligentsia, Vivienne Westwood does not present sexuality as a straight forward attribute that fashion so often tends to do, but instead as a matter for inquiry, exploration and debate. She asserts that sexuality is always an interplay between the polarities of masculine and feminine, of dress and undress. Third, as Anarchic Collage, she has taken, juxtaposed, and transformed objects and symbols from dominant culture, like every modern subversive movement from Dada to Punk. She has continued this form of anarchic collage, mixing styles from various times and places, taking them out of their traditional context. From thiss viewpoint, Vivienne Westwood's works can be considered to be made up of past themes merged with is contemporary. The usage of contrasting elements such as Punk and couture to communicate her ideas visually or technically.

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A Study on the Blistery of Western Shoes and Their Aesthetic Value (서양신발의 사적 고찰과 미적 가치 I)

  • 김민자;최현숙;이현주
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.51 no.5
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    • pp.157-173
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    • 2001
  • In fashion, there are various cultural aspects that exist in complexity, where according to the era, even fashion items newly develop and prevail into various designs in the organic function with reality of related cultural phenomenon and aesthetic aim. Among the fashion items, the shoe is historically considered as the shield from lust and also the provision of praise against the most emotional incitement. Mankind has started wearing shoes out of the functional purpose of protection since the ancient Egyptian times. Thereafter humankind has been creating shoes artistically in respect to shape, color, and quality of material, etc, as an expression of aesthetical awareness and introspective desire for beauty. As modern fashion increasingly regards the total fashion image much more important than each items consisting the whole outfit, the role of shoe became essential more than ever. Contrary to its relative importance, little academic attention was given to this area yet, while prestigious museums and galleries in Europe and the USA have held exhibitions of shoes in view of both historical and artistic aspects. This study aims to make a historical inquiry of western shoes. through which their aesthetic values can be drawn. Literature on this subject including aesthetics, history of costume and arts were referred. Fashion magazines and catalogues were investigated for additional information. The process and results of this study are meant to be a suggestion not only to further studies but also to artistic and creative shoe design. Originated for the functional purpose, shoes have evolved in various shapes with different meanings attached to it. When the technological development made the satisfaction for functional needs possible, the intrinsic attribute, the aesthetic value was pursued. The historical contemplations of shoes from Egyptian times to the 1990's led to the results that the intrinsic aesthetic value of shoes can be summarized as follows: 1) protection and extension of body, 2) need for decoration, 3) erotic expression, 4) symbol of dignity and class, 5) fashion.

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An Analysis of Fashion Images and Design Components of the Sexy Look Evening Dresses in Haute Couture (오뜨꾸뛰르 이브닝드레스 섹시 룩의 패션이미지와 디자인 특성 분석)

  • Peng, Xiao Chun;Yoo, Youngsun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.65 no.3
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    • pp.117-130
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    • 2015
  • The purpose of this study is to investigate the 'sexy look' of the Paris Haute Couture evening dresses of the past 10 years from 2005 to 2014. The results are as follows: According to the occurrence frequency analysis of the fashion images of sexy look evening dress, the type of sexy look that appeared the most is the romantic sexy look, followed by erotic sexy look, ethnic sexy look, minimal sexy look and avant-garde sexy, respectively. According to the design component-specific analysis of evening dress for each Haute Couture house, 7 Haute Couture houses have used H-line silhouette over the past 10 years, each H-line silhouette being different. In terms of material, Valentino, Elie Saab, Givenchy, Chanel and Dior have shown a trend of favoring see-through material, Gaultier and Armani showed a lot to combine different materials. In terms of color, Valentino, Chanel, Dior, Gaultier, Armani have shown a general trend in the last 10 years to express sexy look by using attractive and mystical black tones, Elie Saab has shown skin color a lot by using brown family colors and Givenchy has used white family colors. According to the design components analysis for each sexy look fashion image, the H-line silhouette showed the most frequency to represent sexy looks. In terms of material, avant-garde sexy look, ethnic sexy look and minimal sexy look showed a lot to combine different materials to express sexy looks, but erotic sexy look and romantic sexy look are characterized by using thin see-through material. As for the color, black series has been most represented in the last 10 years for the Haute Couture evening dress sexy look.

Application of Fashion Design to Mobile-Phone Game Character's Dress Design (모바일폰 게임 캐릭터 의상 디자인을 위한 패션 디자인 활용연구)

  • Lee, Min-Sun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.57 no.3 s.112
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    • pp.63-77
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    • 2007
  • The purpose of this study is to apply fashion design to developing dress design of mobile-phone game characters. As for the research methodology, first, market research has been carried out to extract main images from dress designs of game characters and to understand their socio-cultural meanings. Second, the fashion design, which ran be compared to the extracted images of game characters were selected. Third, analyses were done to find out the gap between the game character's dress designs and the fashion designs. The main images of game characters are revealed as erotic, romantic, heroic, grotesque. These images have been formed by psychological and socio-cultural effects such as stimulation, empathy, compensation, increase of female game player. The differences between the game character's dresses and the fashion designs are as follows; With regard to style, game dresses have silhouette distinguished from background, but fashion collection have blurred silhouette. In the aspect of color, while strong colors are mainly used in game dress, neutral rotors are preferred in fashion collection. As for texture, the expression of 'textures in game character's dress is so far limited due to the insufficient level of the concerned technology. However, the fashion design applying drape of fabrics are well-developed. Mobile-phone game players want reality in game design. Therefore, the effort to overcome the gaps between game dress and fashion design can contribute to the growth of game character design.

The Study on the Oxidative Stability of Mixed Rapeseed oil with Palm oil (팜유 혼합유채유의 산화안정성에 관한 연구)

  • 현영희;안명수
    • Korean journal of food and cookery science
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    • v.9 no.4
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    • pp.317-322
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    • 1993
  • Two kinds of simple and interesterfying mixed rapeseed oil were prepared according to add 30%, 50% and 70% of coconut and palm oil, then the physicochemical propecties such as the tedency of oxidation, foaming activity were Investigated. The initial AV and POV of interesterifyung mixed rape-seed oils were higher than those of simple mixed oils, but the tendencies of oxidation were similar. The intial value of IV interesterfied rapeseed oils was added in simple mixed rapeseed oil, Induction period were increased about 2.4~4 times. Induction period of intereterifyng mixed oils added palm ell increased about 2~3.2 times. While the foaming Buantity of interesterifing mixed rapeseed oils with palm oil were lower about 28~40% than those of the simple mixed rapeseed oils.

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Autonomic and Frontal Electrocortical Responses That Differentiate Emotions elicited by the Affective Visual Stimulation

  • Sohn, Jin-Hun;Lee, Kyung-Hwa;Park, Mi-Kyung;Eunhey Jang;Estate Sokhadze
    • Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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    • 2000.04a
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    • pp.15-25
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    • 2000
  • Cardiac, respiratory, electrodermal and frontal (F3, F4) EEG responses were analyzed and compared during to slides of International Affective Picture System (IAPS) in the study on 42 students. Physiological responses during 20s of exposure to slides intended to elicit happiness (nurturant and erotic), sadness, disgust, surprise, fear or anger emotions were quite similar and were expressed in heart rate (HR) deceleration, decreased HR variability (HRV), specific SCR, increased non-specific SCR frequency (N-SCR), and EEG changes exhibited in theta increase, alpha-blocking and increased beta activity, and frontal asymmetry. However, some emotions demonstrated variations of the response magnitudes, enabling to differentiate some paris of emotions by several physiological parameters. The profiles showed higher magnitudes of HRV and EEG responses in exciting (i.e., erotic) and higher cardiac and respiratory responses in surprise. The most different pairs were exciting-surprise (by HR, HRV, theta, and alpha asymmetry), exciting-sadness (by theta, alpha, and alpha asymmetry), and exciting-fear (by HRV, theta, F3 alpha, and alpha asymmetry). Nurturant happiness yielded the least differentiation. Differences were found as well within negative emotions, e.g., anger-sadness were differentiated by HRV and theta asymmetry, while disgust-fear by N-SCR and beta asymmetry. Obtained results suggest that magnitudes of profiles of physiological variables differentiate emotions evoked by affective pictures, despite that the patterns of most responses were featured by qualitative similarity in given passive viewing context.

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A Study on the Men′s Underclothes of Baroque Age (바로크 시대의 남성 속옷에 관한 고찰)

  • 김주애
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.6 no.4
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    • pp.203-212
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    • 1998
  • During the Baroque Ages, the underclothes of both sexs developed a new significance. They ceased altogether to be merely utilitarian in function, and were exploited, to a striking degree, to indicate class distinction and sex attraction. Up to this period, as e have seen, the underclothes of men and women had very much the same significance, but from now on there is a division. The male garments are designed mainly to express social rank, the female mainly to attract. The man's shirt is an integral part of the visible costume of the find gentleman. After 1660, The fashion portrayed by the men, exhibiting the shirt extruding between the bottom of the waistcoat and the top of the breeches is still more remarkable and significant. The period is important in that it was the last time that the male attempted to give his under clothing an erotic suggestion. It was their experience that silk and linen garments next to the skin were less liable than wool to harbour lice. Until the era of physical cleanliness opened a century later, woollen undergarments were rarely worn. the nineteenth century accepted cleanliness as a sign of class distinction.

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A Study on the Expression of eroticism and Modern Costume -Surrealism, Pop Art, Post Modernism- (현대복식과 에로티시즘(Eroticism)적 표현에 관한 연구 -초현실주의, 팝아트, 포스트 모티니즘-)

  • 김명주;김분숙
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.18 no.4
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    • pp.460-472
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    • 1994
  • The Purpose of this study was to find in the art the basis of originality appeared on the fashion design and investigating the erotic expression appeared on the ornaments how art surrealism, pop art, post moderninism-formularize in the modern fashion. This study about the expression of eroticism and modren costume, through the source of pictures contained in art books and mode magazine and documents investingation has resulted as follows: First, the formality and contents that related art and fashion shows us a various aspect. That based on modeled characteristic and various technique of the art. Second, the expression of eroticism in fashion expressed differently in style, material and expression method that is more strongly, sometimes metaphorically with spirit of the time's. Third, the expression of eroticism in fashion whether direct way or symbolic way has appeared as partial exposure of the body. It is appearing to the course that can display individuality of each person over the taboo of the part and the previous limitation of fashion.

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A Study on the Characteristics of Women's Costumes in the Ends of Centuries (근세이후 여성복식에 나타난 세기말 현상에 관한 연구)

  • 배수정
    • Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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    • v.2 no.1
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    • pp.114-128
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    • 1999
  • In a turn a century, the skepticism, mysticism and eroticism used to prevail, the people becoming anxious, expectative and doubtful about an oncoming age. The costumes tend to become more exciting and erotic in the fashion. This thesis is on understanding “What would 21 century's clothes be\ulcorner” after analyzing the specific points in an end of the century. The characteristics found from 16th century to 20th century are going to the extremes in the shapes, consistent appearance of bustle style costumes and excessive ornaments which are closely interrelated with one another. I expect the fashion in 21st century would be changed in two ways. Firstly, going to the extremes and stressing on the buttock would be going down in the end of 1999. Secondly, the comfortable clothes highest in function and technology, and also friendly to the environment, might be the main stream, rather then outwardly good looking clothes, because spirit and environment is much more emphasized than the mode by the social impact or pressure in the next era. (Korean J Human Ecology 2(1) : 114~128, 1999)

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A Study on the Formative Features of Black Fetish Fashion (블랙 페티시 패션의 조셩성에 관한 연구)

  • 이민경;한명숙
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.7 no.2
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    • pp.323-333
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    • 1999
  • The purpose of this study was to analyze the meaning and formative features of the black color reflected on the fetish fashion. This study was proceeded mainly by analyzing with references and plates of magazine. The results of the study were as follows ; First, the sexual liberation and revolution have certainly led to a reassessment of sexual deviations, which changed the meaning of fetishism that has been only regarded as sexual perversion, so that it symbolied a new sexual perception and identification. As the result, black in fetish fashion was symbolized a new fetishism\`s definition which refused to distinguish male from female, and also reflected the meaning to express the second sex that wanted to express themselves. Second, the formative features of black color in fetish fashion have appeared tightness and bareness in form, and in material, glancing materials changed by the effect of light, and elasticity materials-leather, rubber, PVC, and laycra. By these features, black fetish fashion has drawn a higher attention on human body than the dress itself as a symbol about the psychology of erotic sensations and sexual images of the self appearing in black color.

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