• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권1호
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• pp.158-170
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• 2016

This study analyzes historical drama costumes as a domain of popular culture through an examination of the changing process, factors, and design characteristics of historical drama costumes according to trend changes in historical dramas after the 2000s. Public interest in Korean traditional clothing has grown due to the historical drama fever. Research results are as follows. First, historical dramas are divided into: authentic historical dramas, popular dramas, and fusion dramas. Historical drama costumes show characters' status and roles to help viewers become absorbed in dramas and increase understanding the historical periods and knowledge. Second, the characteristics of TV historical drama costumes (according to changes of the historical dramas according to 2000) brought diversification as they are diversified by period, genre, and character and costumes which are suitable for them additionally resurfaced. Third, as for the design characteristics by type in TV historical costume after 2000s, authentic historical dramas' design was done by comparatively in-depth historical research based on historical materials to help public understand the past. Popular historical drama costumes are based on history, but the forms of costumes were emphasized (or exaggerated); in addition, colors, subjects, and patterns were modified to emphasize image beauty, dramas' atmosphere, and characters by reflecting intention. The fusion of historical dramas' costumes attracted the attention of the public about Korean designs that harmonized tradition with modernity to actively reflect current trends in past periods and show new types of creative design.

• 복식
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• 제61권9호
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• pp.131-147
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• 2011

This study puts the significance on the trends, the characteristics, the factors and background of the typical diversification of 2000's historical dramas and of their costume in conjunction with the popular culture. We analyzed the materials like the official web-sites, the articles and promotional photos based on 47 TV historical dramas and 21 historical movies. And we, approaching the characteristics of popular culture in connection with the social, cultural, economic, emotional and technical aspects, considered the trends of the historical dramas and their connection with the paradigms of the contemporary popular culture. The results of this analysis are summarized as follows. First, the 2000's historical dramas & their costume, in the process to widen communication with the public, rose the values of popular culture, economic values, traditional values. Second, the diversification of the costumes in historical dramas, derived from the diversification of the era Genre characters and this is related to the characteristics of popular culture in 2000's such as the diversity, the nature of mixture, flexibility and the orientation of variation. Third, the new media environment and the imaging technology of 2000's raised completeness of the historical dramas and their costume. As the technical background placed the emphasis on realistic representation. Fourth, the costume of historical dramas in 2000's reflected the intention of the production in consideration with the emotional aspects of popular culture.

• 한국산학기술학회논문지
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• 제22권5호
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• pp.343-353
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• 2021

사극 드라마는 더욱 극적인 전개를 원하는 대중들의 취향에 따라 퓨전 형태로 변화하고 있으며, 고증 의상 또한 현대적인 감각으로 표현되고 있다. 본 연구는 사극 드라마에 나타난 고증 의상의 현대화의 사례 탐색 및 학습자의 인식을 조명해보고, 향후 사극 드라마에서 고증 의상의 현대화에 대한 함의점을 제시해보는데 목적이 있다. 연구 방법은 이론적 연구와 사례 연구 및 하브루타 학습법을 통한 서술형 설문지 응답법을 병행하였다. 본 연구의 결과로 첫째, 사극 드라마에서 고증의상의 현대화에 대한 본질적인 문제는 사극 드라마의 역사적 사실을 저해하는 고증의상의 과도한 현대적 변용으로 나타났다. 둘째, 사극 드라마에서 고증의상의 현대화에 대한 대학생들의 부정적인 인식으로는 한국 고유의 정체성 상실, 드라마의 몰입도 저하, 미디어가 갖는 교육적 영향력의 견해가 주를 이루었다. 긍정적인 인식으로는 전통 문화의 인식 제고를 통한 관심 증대, 시대적 흐름의 변화에 대한 절충, 대중들의 시각적 유희 증대의 견해가 주를 이루었다. 셋째, 사극 드라마에서 고증의상의 효과적인 연출 방향에 대한 함의점은 사극 드라마 관계자들의 인식개선과 고증의상에 대한 의상디자이너의 철저한 사전 조사, 전통복식에 대한 심층적인 연구와 체계적이고 명확한 교육적 접근, 정부의 노력과 시청자들의 관심이 필요하다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제41권3호
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• pp.407-419
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• 2017

Based on clothing prohibition modelling characteristics, this paper studies historical costumes through the traditional Chinese historical dramas of the 'Kang-Qian' heyday during the 'Qing Dynasty'; represents the research object as a representative Chinese historical drama. This paper systematically analyzed the utilization and reflection of royal women clothing prohibition. The results of the study are as follows. The royal women clothing prohibition of this drama shows three aspects of characteristics found in traditional Chinese costume modeling. First, some special colors that integrated ancient and modern styles were mainly used in this drama such as champagne color, wine color, and macaron color. Second, it mainly utilized the modelling of modern artificial pigments and floral patterns that are different from Chinese traditional female costumes of the 'Qing Dynasty'. Third, stage costumes for this drama are focused more on using a personality method to reflect the beauty of each actress by the application of individual elements. This study analyzed and studied the clothing prohibition of female costume from to show the traditional Chinese costume prohibition in a Chinese historical drama as well as reveal a few aspects of traditional female costume characteristics in the 'Kang-Qian' heyday during the 'Qing Dynasty'. This study examined traditional female costumes characteristics in modern historical dramas based on different figures and dynasties as well as discussed the factors at a deeper level and from varied aspects.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권5호
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• pp.1102-1118
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to investigate the underwear design shown in historical dramas set in Europe between the $16^{th}$ and the $18^{th}$ century, woman's bodies were highly restricted, in order to analyze the symbolism of the movie costume and provide basic data for the future education of the department of movie costume design. For a study method, literature relating to movie costumes and underwear as well as captured images from 29 historical dramas set in Europe between the $16^{th}$ and the $18^{th}$ century was reviewed. Among them, data from 17 movies where underwear and crinoline were observed was analyzed. Historical movies, set in the $18^{th}$ century Europe exposed underwear more frequently and decisively than movies set in the $16^{th}$ and $17^{th}$ centuries. For the figure wearing underwear, its expression effect was maximized by the implication function of costumes. Underwear can easily express the time and space background and symbolize the character's social and economic position, attitudes, and values. In addition, the exposure of underwear can reveal characters' internal expressions, such as mental status, taste, temper, intention, mood, time and space display. The result of observing the underwear shown in movies reveals that underwear plays a subjective role in expressing ideal femininity as a woman of a particular age, modesty, social position symbolism and eroticism that depended on the situation. It is expected that the study will provide an opportunity to reconsider the function of underwear, which is different from the meaning of costume history, and its role as a means of communication by considering the change of underwear by age.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권3호
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• pp.554-565
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• 2016

This study analyzed expressive effects of King Henry VIII's costumes in films based on DeLong's (1988) theory. Theoretical analysis was done through a literature research of previous studies from both domestic and international. Empirical research was used as a research tool for visual media such as , , and . An analysis on movie costumes indicated that King Henry VIII's costume almost matched DeLong's (1998) expressive effect on excitement, calmness, strength, and delicacy. King Henry VIII's costumes in films based on DeLong's (1988) theory expressed significant of strength and excitement in terms of expressive effects with some elegance. King Henry VIII's costumes had their expressive effects different according to the intentions of film productions, even for the identical event scenes with the same purpose. The findings of this study can be used as basic data for the research of design and costumes as well as the production of drama stages for historical dramas during King Henry VIII's reign.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.273-286
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• 2016

Traditional Chinese operas are time-honored art form, they are vivid in expression, rich in content, embody social, thought-provoking, historical and artistic value. And as a splendid art form and part of China's brilliant traditional cultural heritage, traditional Chinese operas have been developed with Chinese history from generation to generation. Nowadays, with the comprehensive national strength increasingly growing, Chinese government is giving more and more importance to enhance people's awareness of protecting traditional Chinese opera. In actual fact, both Chinese scholars and the other scholars who have done some research in traditional Chinese operas and built up solid foundation for further study. Even though, traditional Chinese operas have not been fully understood by people outside the 5000-year-old civilization, especially what is the close relationship between the apparel and accessories and the names of dramas. Based on this condition, the paper selects and summarizes names of apparel and accessories in traditional Chinese dramas as its thesis, intending to explore the relationship between the apparel and accessories and the names of dramas, analyzing how such names in dramas highlight themes and promote the development of unique storylines. The paper will help Western readers further understand the meaning of traditional operas names' behind these costumes and promote Chinese traditional dramas spreading to abroad.

• 디지털융복합연구
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.369-378
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• 2022

본 연구는 중국 사극 드라마에서 캐릭터의 미적요소가 시청 몰입도와 재시청 의도에 미치는 영향에 대해 분석하였다. 실증조사를 위해 사극 드라마 <연희공략(延禧攻略)>을 시청한 중국인 330명의 설문을 바탕으로 SPSS 23.0을 사용하여 빈도분석, 요인분석, 신뢰도분석, 상관관계분석 및 회귀분석을 실시하였다. 연구결과 헤어스타일, 의상이 적용된 중국 사극의 캐릭터 미적요소는 시청몰입도, 재시청 의도에 정(+)의 영향을 미치는 것으로 확인되었다. 또한 미적요소와 재시청 의도 간의 관계에서 시청 몰입도는 매개효과가 있는 것으로 나타났다. 향후 드라마의 가치를 높이기 위한 헤어, 의상을 비롯한 다양한 미적요소를 통해 지속적인 캐릭터 창출을 기대할 수 있을 것으로 사료된다.

• 복식
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• 제55권8호
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• pp.85-98
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• 2005

This Study is to analyze characteristics of costume change of according to the status of character succeeding the investigation of the ceremonial costume change in historical TV dramas that The Empress Myungsung entered. For this study, the costume images among historical TV dramas, that Myungsung entered, '500 years of Chosun Dynastyv, Taewongun(1990, MBC)', 'The Glorious Dawn(1993, KBS1)', 'The Empress Myungsung(2001, KBS2)'were used: The characteristics of the costume change of main character are as follows. First, main character's costume has been increase gradually in number and item. Second, Especially in the last work,'The Empress Myungsung', the royal costume based on historical evidence in aspects of silhouette, but it didn't according to the historical costume in aspects of color and textile. Nevertheless the costume reveals the status of each person significantly. Third, the costumes of the recent historical drama appears as a optical symbol that represents historical view point and different interpretation of each drama. Therefore the costume according to the status of the character wrong from the historical point of view. Consequently, TV costume in historical drama Myungsung entered has been focused on the beauty of the screen and dramatic effect than historical viewpoint. So the costume have been to be an essential visual part by means of the symbol revealed the purpose.

• Human Ecology Research
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• 제55권5호
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• pp.481-490
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• 2017

This study considered the performing arts culture with a focus on Palgwanhoe Ceremony and various stunt-songs and dance (Baekhee-Gamoo) from the Goryeo period as well as examined the characteristics of performing arts' costume for Baekhee-Gamoo shown in Palgwanhoe Ceremony. The Baekhee-Gamoo shown in the Palgwanhoe Ceremony included acrobatics, traditions from comic dramas, puppet shows, mask plays, and four musical troupe flowers of youth in the Silla Dynasty, who excelled in beauty, bravery and the military arts (Sasun-Akboo). These were performed on a wagon ship with dragon, phoenix, and elephant animal masks (Yong-Bong-Sang-Mageosun). The characteristics of performing arts' costume for each performing arts are as follows. First, the general costume of the time was used for performing arts' costume. There were no special costumes for performing arts and it was just transformed or added for the efficiency of acrobatics. Second, the reality was improved by focusing on the historical research on costume suitable for characters and background of events in the performing arts to clearly deliver the purpose of the ceremony and quickly arouse audience's curiosity towards the performing arts' costume for the tradition of comic dramas and puppet shos in the Palgwanhoe Ceremony. Third, magical powers and symbolism were expressed through masks and performing arts' costumes. Palgwanhoe Ceremony aimed for magical powers that could protect weak human beings from threats and repel everything unfair while also symbolically showing the deified being through the performing arts' costume.