• 디자인학연구
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• 제13권3호
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• pp.271-280
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• 2000

복식은 조형적 구성의 측면에서 그시대의 예술양식을 수용, 표출한다. 최근에 이르러서는 복식과 예술분야가 통합적 조형양식으로 존재하면서 동시대적 사상이나 이슈를 반영할 뿐 아니라 여타 문화현상들과 상호의존적 또는 상호수정보완적 관계를 유지하고 있다. 따라서 일련의 전위적인 디자이너들에 의해 시도되고 있는 아방가르드적 현상으로서 해체주의적 현상을 밝힘은 그동안 논의되왔던 조형양식적 측면과 미학적 측면에서의 복식을 재조명하는 그 의의가 있다. 해체주의 패션은 모더니즘적 양식을 반박하여 형식이나 구성에 있어 전위가 몰형식과 비구조화의 형태를 띄고 있으며 그것은 외형적 구조로서만이 아니라 인식론이나 내재론적 측면에서도 이성적 주체관, 현전의 형이상학, 이분법적 사고의 붕괴 둥을 의미하는 것으로 현대패션이라는 커다란 흐름을 고유함으로써 상호보완적인 역할을 수행하고 있다. 즉 양식의 이종교배, 과거양식의 인식, 복합성과 모호성, 다양한 매체의 이용 등과 같은 패션 트랜드 속에서 재해석되고 변경, 수용되어 존재하고 있다고 할 수 있다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제7권6호
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• pp.98-115
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• 1999

As sports infiltrates each field of modern society and becomes familiar, sports wear was changed functionally and was introduced and enveloped into everyday dress. Modern sports wear has been the settled in everyday life deeply and become the clothes of life which are worn regardless of place, time and age. The aim of this paper was to clarify what kind of fashion of sports style would be given to the modern people. In this study, sports wear which has become everyday dress classified from a gender point of view. It was divided into masculine image, feminine image, and neutral image. Sports wear of masculine image generated a silhouette which emphasized the shoulder with the aspiration for youth and health. Wide shoulder was considered as the symbol of masculine beauty and the expression of healthy beauty. It was reflected well in body conscious look. And owing to the development of up-to-data materials, innovation of design, and the study of human body technology, the functional character was settled in the sports wear which showed masculine image. Sports wear of feminine image was represented fashion of body exposure, body feet with body conscious look, and romantic mode. This image was expressed fashion as comforts, pleasant, active design, materials, color, and romantic feminine beauty. Sports wear of neutral image was expressed into unisex clothes. This cloths have no difference in gender, age, and class. It was used as casual sports wear. In the 1960s, young generation participated in such street sports as street basketball and skate. They usually sore the sports wears of neutral image such as cycling, skating, and ski. In the materials of sports, the development of up-to-data material like lycra made the sayings lifelike, “up-to-data material is the second skin” It show that glamorous feminine image and strong masculine image coexisted. The contemporary concept of sportswear is no longer limited to those clothes for sports found in such places like tennis court or swimming pool. Now, the sports wear become more like casual activity wear all classes of people can enjoy in their life regardless of where they are, when they wear, and even how old they are.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.287-296
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• 2007

최근 우리나라 여성들의 패션경향은 단순히 유행을 따르던 시대를 지나 자신만의 개성적이고 독창적인 미를 살리려는 방향으로 흐르고 있다. 이러한 시대적 요구에 부응하여 패션 디자인에 있어서 새로운 아이디어를 개발해야 함은 당연한 일일 것이다. 본 연구는 1960년대 팝 아트의 대표적인 작가인 로이 리히텐슈타인의 작품세계를 연구하고 이를 현대적 감각에 맞는 의상과 접목시킴으로써 예술세계의 실용화와 더불어 의상세계의 예술화를 추구하였다. 연구의 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 로이 리히텐슈타인은 만화를 비롯한 인쇄 매체물에 환등기의 기계적인 기법을 도입하여 벤데이(Ben Day)점들을 창안해 내었다. 본 연구는 그의 작품을 응용하여 의상을 제작함에 있어 그 작품의 특징 중 벤데이 점과 사선, 삼원색의 기본색 사용, 단순화된 평면 형태에 주목하였다. 둘째, 그의 작품의 대표적인 특징인 벤데이 점은 의상에 응용하여 다양한 모양과 크기와 색의 다트(Dot) 문양으로 응용하여 표현하였다. 그리고 그의 사선은 다양한 크기와 색의 스트라잎(Stripe) 문양으로 표현하였다. 셋째, 그의 작품에 사용된 삼원색과 무채색을 의상의 기본 색상으로 사용하였으며, 단순화된 평면 형태의 조형적 특징을 활용하여 단순하고 대담한 스타일의 의상을 디자인 하였다. 로이 리히텐슈타인의 만화적 이미지의 이용, 망점 스크린과 사선, 강렬한 색채 등은 더욱 다양한 방법으로 연구되어지고 미래 많은 패션 디자이너에게도 무한한 디자인 영감을 제공해 줄 것으로 기대된다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.657-669
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• 2006

This study is to investigate the previous cases of plural eclecticism through the works of Vivienne Westwood, who contributed to the spread of innovative and eclectic English fashion out to the world as well as to review plurality and its phenomena since the 20th century more systematically. In terms of research methodology, the phenomena of plural eclecticism were examined from social and cultural perspectives, whereas bibliographic research and case study were performed for the phenomena of eclecticism in fashion. From the perspective of plural eclecticism, the results from analyzing the works of Vivienne Westwood by the divisions of temporal eclecticism, spatial eclecticism, and contingent eclecticism are described in the following. First, Vivienne Westwood emphasized historicism tendency of temporal eclecticism. Her efforts to try to modernize history went beyond ages and social classes including men's clothing, prostitutes' costumes, craft items, and dresses for royal family. Second, her spatial eclecticism was reflected on the first collection themes inspired by the American Indians or borrowed from the names of Voodoo in the Tropics. Finally, infra-fashion as an expression of contingent eclecticism of Vivienne Westwood's works can be interpreted as plural eclecticism which shows contingent eclecticism and historic eclecticism at the same time. This study aimed at proving preceding implications concerning recent plural eclecticism through the analysis of the works of Vivienne Westwood who tried a radical design of plural eclecticism in an effort to modernize the tradition of England in the circumstances where a number of trends and styles exist together, with their own uniqueness and values.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.74-90
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• 2010

The history of contemporary art in the 20th century can be said the history of changes. Today the variety of objects destroy the boundaries of each genre. This study aims to understand the relationship between fashion and art that becomes closer by examining contemporary art in the Gwangju Biennale 2008 to enlarge the range of understanding of mutual communication between contemporary art and fabrics which are the object of fashion. The research method was to investigate the characteristics and expression methods of object fabrics shown in contemporary art through the review of papers published at home and abroad, related literatures, and Internet materials. Also, the meaning, technique, and methods of fabrics were analyzed from works introduced in the Gwangju Biennale 2008. In order to achieve this purpose, fabric was examined as the object of work in Gwangju Biennale 2008. As a result, it is found that fabric plays an important role in changing environment newly with more dynamic, abundant, and comfortable and softer feeling than any other artistic materials and enlarging the boundaries of artistic materials by exploring formative possibility. Furthermore, its multi-dimensional expression characteristic presents unbounded possibility. Fabric which has long formed close relationship with human life has taken its place as one genre now. It departs from the past principles of fabric handicraft and the restriction of a classical norm and becomes characteristic of very wide-ranging selection of materials and free expression. Its soft and warm texture provides emotional stability for a human. Although the peculiarity of fabric as an active concept to human environment and new materials and technique based on the aesthetic consciousness of a human rely on the high development of industry, it is significant that artists' liberation from their concept and material sense is accompanied by the expression of freedom.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.41-51
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• 2002

The author of the paper investigated the changes of hairstyle along the developments in hairdressing industry in the 20th century. The development process of hairdressing industry was divided into four periods of introduction, origination, growth, and establishment. The corresponding changes of hairstyle were analyzed and the findings are as follows. 1. Hairstyle could be classified into such typical ones as traditional style, cut, bob, wave, permanent wave, up style, and hair coloring. 2. Fashion leaders affected the changes of hairstyle. 3. Whenever hairdressing appliances were introduced, new hairstyle was practiced as follows with the use of the appliances. (1) Introduction Period - Traditional Style : Chignon, pigtail ribbon $\rightarrow$ Variations were designed in hair length or split due to the limited availability of appliances. - Up Style : Pompadour, thick and up hair, encircling hair $\rightarrow$ Padding was used for sweep-up. (2) Origination Period - Bob Style : Women's first bob style. - Wave style : Wave with bob, close-cropped hair, up style $\rightarrow$ Iron, set, permanent devices were used. (3) Development Period - Wave Style : Wind wave, easily manageable wave $\rightarrow$ Blow dry, body permanent were used. (4) Establishment Period - Straight Style : Use of straight permanent. - Thick Wave Style : Development of various kinds of rod. - Hair Coloring : Advent of diverse fashion hair coloring, apart from the coloring of white hair, with the introduction of color TV. - Bob Style : Romantic bob style $^{\circ}\hat{E}$ Use of clippers and thinning scissors. Thus, the changes of hairstyle according to the development in hairdressing industry had close relationship with the improvement in hairdressing appliances.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제4권
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• pp.21-45
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• 2004

The rapid development of science technology during the 20th century has greatly lowered the hours for labour, thus giving members of society extra time for leisure. With the increasement of leisure activities, sports casual wear has become one of the foremost leading items in the fashion industry, and among such sports casual, down wear has become the F/W season's most popular item. Because it generates high profits, many recognize it as a very important factor in lady's wear. Since the 1990's, down wear was widely applied to various sections of lady's, men's, and children's wear, and it has ceased to be limited to sports casual only. The purpose of this study was to fully understand the characteristics of down, and to develop crossover garments design desired not only in the F/W season but also the S/S season. It has been taken into consideration that many restrictions in sewing technique and material selection in manufacturing down as a fashion product exist when choosing a means of manufacture. That was why this study focused on the history and characteristics of down while analysing the works of domestic and foreign designers to concretely applicate them in fashion products. This study has divided the resulting down wear products according to consumer preference： vest, jacket, coat, one-piece, and skirt to applicate design manufacture of lady's wear in general, while designing and making artistically expressed down wear. There were 48 works developed as a result of this study, of which 41 were ready-to-wear, and the remaining 7 works were creative art wear.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권8호
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• pp.1029-1043
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• 2013

The pearl is a highly valuable gem that has historically represented wealth and power. Pearl necklaces have developed intro various types and represent an essential status item for modern women. This study first examines the symbolic and various meanings of pearls. Second, this study examines wearing types and pearl necklace patterns based on historical figures and modern fashion icons famous for personal displays of pearls. This study examines and analyzes various specialty publications about jewels, history of costumes, fashion magazines, academic research data, and internet search results. The conclusion of this study is as follows. Pearls have various symbolic meanings that are unlike other gems. Pearls represent purity, innocence, marital fidelity, an intimate relationship with the moon, frozen tears of God, solitude, triumph over adversity, wisdom, and sensual attraction. The societies and people traditionally famous for pearls were the Roman Empire, Queen Cleopatra of Egypt, Queen Theodora of the Byzantine Empire, Queen Elizabeth I, Queen Marie Antoinette, Empress of Eugenie Napoleon III, and Queen Alexandra. They showed a special affection for pearl necklaces and various wearing patterns unique to the time. Their pearl necklaces became a historic and symbolic legacy. Reestablished through the costume jewelry of cultivated pearls designed by Coco Chanel in the $20^{th}$ century, the pearl necklace has showed a variety of fashion trends in addition to a traditional symbolism of wealth and power. Josephine Baker, Louise Brooks, Marilyn Monroe, Elizabeth Taylor, Jacqueline Kennedy, Queen Elizabeth II, Princess Diana, Michelle Obama and Sarah Jessica Parker have worn notable pearl necklaces and established an individual style that utilizes the adornment of fashionable and stylish pearl necklaces. They have worn pearl necklaces while applying various fashion trend motifs to symbolic pearl features of that have changed the perception of the pearl and themselves.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제23권1호
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• pp.49-63
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to examine the characteristics of modular design observed in Korean traditional clothing. Modular design, which is one of the noticeable characteristics of modern fashion design emerged in the 20th century. This study analyzed the Korean traditional culture to investigate the characteristics that show similarities to the modular system in design. A traditional Korean house is composed of small structures called 'chae'. A traditional Korean building is composed of a basic unit space called 'kan', and the rooms are divided and recombined. Korean traditional interior design shows furniture, bedding and art works that could be used, folded then stored. Korean cuisine is served in combination with small dishes. Korean letters are combined in square shaped form to make writing and printing easy. Korean traditional clothing has a way of washing where clothing are disassembled, washed and then re-stitched. The pattern pieces are made to be rectangular shaped so that the fabric pieces can be kept in shape during washing. The rectangular shaped pattern pieces can be replaced and reused after washing. Tops and bottoms could be interchanged for color-coordination, because the shapes of the clothing were standardized. These features exhibit modular system in Korean traditional clothing design. Modular system design has common characteristics which have basic modules, pursue practical purpose, have interchangeability adapted to circumstances, and could be disassembled and re-combined. Korean traditional clothing illustrates different ways of practicing modular system, but has some common features to contemporary modular fashion design.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제18권6호
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• pp.100-115
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• 2014

This study examined the history of nail art in 20th century, defined characteristics of many techniques used on nails, and analyzed how those techniques have been utilized in recent nail art works. For the method of the study, books and previous studies on nail art were examined as primary sources, and newspaper articles on nail art were studied as references. Then, the case studies were conducted on photographs of nail art works published in Nail Holic in 2012. As a result of analyzing expression techniques of nail art featured on Nail Holic, there had been a total of 517 works created using a single technique. The reason why hand painting is used very frequently is because artists can draw unique images of their own to create various designs according to their tastes. Rhine stone is also very popular, because stones are easy to apply and various in their shapes and colors. There were a total of 555 works created using two or more techniques. The most important point to examine is that hand painting, rhine stone, and 3D art were most popular among all techniques. These works featured highly various effects and images by combining flat effect of hand painting with three-dimensional effects of rhine stone or 3D art. The tendency can also be found in the fact that there have been many works using techniques of flat effects such as decal or marbling combined with techniques of three-dimensional effects such as rhine stone or 3D art.