• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.130-144
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• 2008

A recent concern about Goguryeo era reflects the efforts to find out our spiritual roots, which have descended from the ancient times; Goguryeo clothing study leads to analysis of our national spirit in terms of form. This study aims to analyze formal property and intrinsic meaning of Goguryeo clothing for Korean ramie clothing design and draw traditional images to derive design elements applicable to ramie clothing. On the basis of technical books, newspaper article, internet and precedent studies, theoretical study on Goguryeo clothing and ramie property was followed up with positive study to analyze the clothing on the Goguryeo ancient tomb mural. The results are as follows: First, a progressive spirit is to progress and develop anything actively; This spirit represents Goguryeo people's ambition and racial characteristic as horse-riding people; The rigidity of ramie fabric is suitable for expressing straight silhouettes and detail in Goguryeo dress. Second, a fluidity means flowing property in opposition to fixation; in the case of clothing, it has a tendency to change form according to body motions; The extensibility and crease-resistance of ramie fabric is suitable to express pleated skirts and holds high design value for modern people who tend to regard clothing as important individuality expression. Third, a universal property to introduce and receive; as Goguryeo was a prosperous country established by conquering an open plain, the period formed a society that recognized diversity by introducing foreign cultures freely; a universality suggests the direction of modernization of traditional ramie clothing and stimulates us to discovert new design through compromise between various cultures rather than to stick to traditional style. Considering the fact that precedent studies on traditional clothing are concentrated upon the Joseon period and also limited to formal analysis, this study aims to derive design elements for actual clothing making. These results are expected to be used as basic material for study as well as reference for designers who wish to design modern Korean clothing.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제51권4호
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• pp.84-107
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• 2018

첨모직은 표면에 짧은 파일이 나타나는 것으로 조선시대 후기에는 첨모직 깔개를 지칭하는 용어로 채담이 사용되었으며, 20세기 초에는 융전과 단통, 양탄자 등으로 불리었다. 조선 말기 이후의 여러 문헌이나 신문기사, 그리고 각종 사진자료를 통해 첨모직 깔개가 왕실뿐만 아니라 일반인도 사용하였고 당시 국내에서 제작하였다는 것이 확인되었다. 본 연구에서는 조선 말기 이후의 첨모직 깔개 6점을 실물 조사하였는데 5점은 페르시아매듭의 컷파일이며 1점은 루프파일의 기법으로 제작되었다. 컷파일의 깔개는 크기가 가로 72~98 ${\times}$ 세로 150~156cm의 직사각형이며, 나비, 사슴, 호랑이, 그리고 십장생 등의 주 무늬를 중앙에 배치하고 卍자를 가장자리에 배치하였다. 컷파일의 소재는 지경사는 모두 면사이며 지위사는 3점은 면사, 1점은 모사, 그리고 1점은 면사와 비스코스레이온의 혼섬사이다. 지위사는 4점이 S꼬임의 실 여러 올을 합쳐 Z방향으로 합사한 실을 사용했다. 파일위사는 4~6가지의 색이 사용되었는데 홍색을 제외하고 모두 염색을 하지 않은 자연색 그대로의 모섬유가 사용되었다. 그리고 S나 Z꼬임의 모사를 2올 이상 합하여 반대방향으로 꼬임을 주었는데 굵기에 맞춰 올수를 합하였다. 깔개의 위아래 가장자리는 위사를 6올 이상 넣고 남은 지경사는 몇 올씩을 한데 묶어서 정리하였으며, 좌우 가장자리는 3올 이상의 면사를 가운데 놓고 수평으로 감아 마치 둥근 막대처럼 만들며, 가장자리에서 2~3번째 지경사를 징거서 튼튼하게 고정하였다. 루프파일은 경사방향으로 고리를 만든 경첨모직이며 지경사와 지위사는 면사, 파일경사는 모사로 추정된다. 소재의 성분 분석이 가능했던 깔개는 3점으로 파일위사는 판단이 불명한 것을 제외하고 염소와 비미종 양으로 판명되어 첨모직 깔개에 다양한 종류의 동물털이 사용되었을 가능성이 있다고 본다. 본 연구에서 조사한 6점의 깔개는 1800년대 말부터 1900년대 초에 제작되었다고 추정된다. 깔개의 정확한 제작지는 확인할 수 없었으나 당시 국내에서 첨모직 깔개를 제작하고 있다는 문헌기록과 깔개의 문양의 조형성을 고려한다면 우리나라에서 제작된 것으로 본다.

• 복식
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• 제55권1호
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• pp.25-42
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• 2005

Costume is a formative art expressed by active human unlike the field of other living formativeness, and an expression of social actions based on a style of culture in a period. Therefore, costume has a deep connection with a mode of living and is recognized as a 'culture for living', and is more characteristic culture than all metaphysical cultures including architecture, craft, painting, and sculpture. Therefore, it expresses wearer's status or social standing, and furthermore, ideas and values of the times with aesthetic features in their form, color, materials, and pattern, so it is expressed as a mirror reflecting the phases of the times as. Korean costume had been dressed until the period of the Joseon Dynasty without a great change and started to be simplified in a simple style on the grounds of inconvenience in behaviors with the opening of an interchange of Western culture in the civilized period. And, this movement had been continued and Korean costume had been applied as an everyday dress under the name of 'Reformed Korean Costume'. Since the middle phase of 1980s, it aroused many people's interests with the introduction of designs focused on activity and convenience. In 1990's, many people had taken a growing interest in Korean costume with development of various designs keeping pace with the internationalization period and Korean Costume had been revitalized under the name of 'The Modernized Korean Costume'. And, since the 21st century, the advanced communication and full-scaled import of Western fashion have made the introduction of many fashion information in the world into Korea, affected greatly the fashion market, led consumers' sensitivity on a trend to be increased. Therefore, a design accepting a trend 'The Modernized Korean Costume' with fashions has risen. Second, this study is an attempt to suggest a revitalization method of domestic casual Korean costume brands by developing and suggesting competitive and highly value-added products with connection of practicality, variety, and highly sensitive fashion styles. For theoretical study, domestic and foreign literatures, academic journals, professional monthly magazines, and newspapers were examined. And, a process of change and features of the Korean fashion since the civilization period, and concept, features and images of casual Korean costume were analyzed, On the basis of analyzing image, features, and consumers' preference of the modernized Korean costume, a design development plan was established and 10 suits of costume were designed and made.

• 복식
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• 제59권8호
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• pp.132-151
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• 2009

All of 132 kinds of fabrics are used in excavated costume from the Dongrae Jung's Tomb. Classified by its materials, it is divided into small groups as follows: 58 pieces of silk tabby 43.9%, 2 of filament silk tabby 1.5%, 14 of thin filament silk tabby 10.6%, 19 of spun yarn silk 14.4%, 4 of twill without a pattern 3.0%, 8 of patterned silk tabby 6.1%, 23 of satin damask 17.4%, 1 of damask with supplementary gold thread 0.8%, 2 of mixture fabric with silk and cotton 1.5%, and 1 of ramie fabric 0.8%. Classified by ways of weaving: 96 pieces of plain weave 73%, 23 of satin weave 17%, 8 of patterned silk tabby consisting of plain weave material and twill weave pattern-6%, 4 of twill weave 3%, and 1 of compound weave 1 %. In point of patterns, the most often used ones are plant patterns such as lotus patterns, peony patterns, plum blossom patterns, flowers representing seasons patterns, and small flower patterns. For animal patterns, it has phoenix patterns designed together with flowers representing seasons patterns. And for natural scenery patterns, it shows cloud patterns with treasures patterns together. For object patterns, it also shows treasures patterns mixed with cloud or lotus together. For geometrical patterns, it has rhomboid patterns and 卍 character patterns; some show only rhomboid patterns and others show material patterns of 卍 character patterns blended together with fruit, lotus, etc.

• 복식
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• 제59권3호
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• pp.131-144
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• 2009

This study is about single-layered $Chog{\breve{a}}ri$ excavated from SongHyosang(宋效商, 1430-1490, SHS hereafter), SongHeeJong(宋喜從, the late 1500s, SHJ hereafter) tombs. There are 7 single-layered $Chog{\breve{a}}ris$ for men. We focus on comparison of their design and sowing method. 1. Design: Investigating collar, $Chog{\breve{a}}ris$ from SHS have MokpanGit and $Chog{\breve{a}}ris$ from SHJ have KalGit. KalGit has been seen from SHJ to 17th, 18th and 19th centuries. After the late 1500s, there is no MokpanGit single-laTered $Chog{\breve{a}}ri$ for men. Side panel under arm has various shapes(triangle, trapezoid, triangle+trapezoid) in 15th century. After the late 1500s, It changes into no side panel. Two $Chog{\breve{a}}ris$ with no side panel from SHJ reveals that the late 1500s is a period of transition. 2. Sewing method: First, researching lengthwise grainline of the fly, the left fly has lengthwise grainline outside In four, inside in three. The right fly has lengthwise grainline outside in just one, the others have lengthwise grainline inside. Compared with today's way, there is a great difference, but in those times there isn't an established rule. This is true of side panel under arm. The sewing method are backstitch, running stitch, and hemming. Researching the construction method of seam, in putting two selvages together, open seam and plain seam are used. In putting selvage and bias, bias and bias together, flat felled seam and french seam are used. This study shows that single-layered $Chog{\breve{a}}ri$ far men from 15C. to 16C. has changes of design such as collar(Git) and side panel undo. arm. But there is little change in sewing method.

• 한국패션뷰티학회지
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.28-38
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• 2008

Balhae was an ancient Korean kingdom that existed almost 1,300 years ago. It was a dynamic time in the Korean history when the national strength was building up in terms of politics, economy and culture, thereby called as "Haedongseongguk, the powerhouse in the East". Balhae had dominated parts of Manchuria and the northern part of the Korean peninsula between the late 7th century and the 10th century, occupying the center stage of the northern Korean history. It serves as a window to the East Asia in the present as well as in the past. Yet, due to its geography spanning from the North Korea to Kilin Province of China to part of Heilongjiang Province and to the Littoral Province of Siberia, Balhae has been the center of historical disputes among neighboring countries that insist it is part of each of their own history. China argues that it was a prefecture of the Tang Dynasty, established by the Mohe, not a successor to Goguryeo, which is a China-oriented viewpoint of history. In addition, Russia recognizes Balhae as their first-ever medieval feudal state since the Littoral Province is now under their sovereignty. Therefore, the restoration of Balhae history is in line with the veritable establishment of the ancient Korean history. For this, it is necessary to embrace inter-disciplinary achievements and to continue efforts to adopt them rather than to blame the shortage of historical documents and the difficulty of the excavation of relics. If fashion is "a visual symbol" of our society, beauty culture serve as a mirror to reflect our civilization and culture directly or indirectly. Still, it is not easy to draw similarities by analyzing and comparing the attributes of various cultures and civilizations party because the essence of culture lies in diversity. Nevertheless, it is believed that cultural liaison as well as geographical liaison can be a medium to compensate for the limits of the foreign exchange history of Southeast Asia in proving the relationship between Goguryeo and Balhae, by examining and speculating beauty culture that reflect their period. It was confirmed by various documents regarding Goguryeo out of relics, historical sites and documents. Mural paintings showed how the people of Balhae wore and accessorized themselves. They also allowed us to speculate their way of living. As the contemporary historians can assert that Balhae is part of the Korean history thanks to the realism scholars in the late Joseon Dynasty, who rediscovered the Balhae history and conducted practical researches, it is expected that researchers who study beauty culture contribute to completing the restoration of the Balhae history by thoroughly examining our history, costume and beauty culture.