Abstract
This study is about single-layered $Chog{\breve{a}}ri$ excavated from SongHyosang(宋效商, 1430-1490, SHS hereafter), SongHeeJong(宋喜從, the late 1500s, SHJ hereafter) tombs. There are 7 single-layered $Chog{\breve{a}}ris$ for men. We focus on comparison of their design and sowing method. 1. Design: Investigating collar, $Chog{\breve{a}}ris$ from SHS have MokpanGit and $Chog{\breve{a}}ris$ from SHJ have KalGit. KalGit has been seen from SHJ to 17th, 18th and 19th centuries. After the late 1500s, there is no MokpanGit single-laTered $Chog{\breve{a}}ri$ for men. Side panel under arm has various shapes(triangle, trapezoid, triangle+trapezoid) in 15th century. After the late 1500s, It changes into no side panel. Two $Chog{\breve{a}}ris$ with no side panel from SHJ reveals that the late 1500s is a period of transition. 2. Sewing method: First, researching lengthwise grainline of the fly, the left fly has lengthwise grainline outside In four, inside in three. The right fly has lengthwise grainline outside in just one, the others have lengthwise grainline inside. Compared with today's way, there is a great difference, but in those times there isn't an established rule. This is true of side panel under arm. The sewing method are backstitch, running stitch, and hemming. Researching the construction method of seam, in putting two selvages together, open seam and plain seam are used. In putting selvage and bias, bias and bias together, flat felled seam and french seam are used. This study shows that single-layered $Chog{\breve{a}}ri$ far men from 15C. to 16C. has changes of design such as collar(Git) and side panel undo. arm. But there is little change in sewing method.
