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A Study on Victorian Wedding Dress Design and Making Techniques of America (미국 빅토리안 웨딩드레스의 디자인과 제작기법 연구)

  • Lee, Sang-Rye
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.57 no.9
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    • pp.161-176
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    • 2007
  • The objectives of this study are to select and analyze unpublished wedding dresses in the 19th century, to investigate the design characteristics and making techniques of Victorian wedding dresses, and to examine the correlation between the wedding dress style and the fashion style in those days and the influence of the wedding dress style on contemporary's styles. The materials of this study were 9 wedding dresses owned by the Historical Costume and Textile Collection at the University of Connecticut in USA. The dresses were made during the mid and late Victorian Age. As for silhouette, the bustle style was popular in the 1870s and 1880s, and the hourglass style in the 1890s, and different from contemporary dresses there were no big differences in structural pattern and details between ordinary dresses and wedding dresses. In addition, colored wedding dresses were used until the mid and late Victorian Age, but since the wedding ceremony of Queen Victoria in 1840, white wedding dress was widely accepted and settled as the tradition of today's wedding dresses. While the Western dress style had been basically a one piece style, there appeared simple two piece designs in which the upper garment was separated from the lower one, from the mid Victorian Age. This is considered the reflection of those days' pragmatic social trend in dress style. It seems around 1875 when asymmetric design was first introduced in the Western dress style, which had been mostly symmetric. The asymmetric style that pursued atypical beauty, though not common during the late Victorian Age, shows a change in the typical Western dress style. With regard to dress making techniques, sewing machines were distributed widely during the early Victorian Age but they were not used in all parts of dress. Most of details and trimming works were done manually and some parts were attached and detached by hand sewing. In addition, not like today, there were no generalized rules of making such as the form of closings and composition.

A Study of the 'Hobokko' (I) (호복고 독해 연구(1))

  • Park, Chun-Sun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.58 no.7
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    • pp.60-75
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    • 2008
  • A history of Chinese Costume is that of the accept and the struggle between the 'Shen- Yi' of Han(漢) race and 'Ho-Bok' of foreign races. There are the 'Shen-Yi Ko' and the 'Ho-Bok Ko' in their representative documentary. They are quite significant materials for the researchers of the Oriental costume. The purpose of this study about comparing and analyzing the 'Shen-Yi Ko' and the 'Ho-Bok Ko' give a guidance to Chinese costume's researchers. The results of study are as follows: The 'Shen-Yi', having made a dress joined an upper to the low clothing together(上衣下裳) and deeply covered the parts of all the bodies, was named, had appeared the Spring-Autumn & warring state period(春秋戰國時代) and later the former Han Dynasty(前漢). Not only everyone in spite of men and women, without distinction of rank, high and low alike but also even the court dress(朝服) and from latter Han Dynasty(後漢) only the housewives could have worn it. The 'Shen- Yi Ko' disappeared its records and remains and at present nothing leave behind. The 'Ho-Bok' is a costume of the nomadic horse-riding people among the foreign races, then influenced upon the Chinese costume. The style of the Chinese costume consists of 'Yi Sang'(衣裳) and the 'Ho-bok' of foreign races, 'Yi Ko'(衣袴). The 'Yi Ko'((衣袴), derived from the King Muryoung of Cho Dynasty, had greatly been changed the chinese men's clothing and After that 'Ko Sup'(袴褶). The Chinese have enjoyably and familiarly the accepted 'Ho Bok' for a long time.

A Study on Properties of the Glass Fiber Reinforced PPS Composites for Automotive Headlight Source Module (자동차 전조등 광원 모듈용 유리섬유강화 PPS 복합재료 특성 연구)

  • Heo, Kwang-Yeol;Park, Sung-Min;Lee, Eun-Soo;Kim, Myung-Soon;Sim, Ji-Hyun;Bae, Jin-Seok
    • Composites Research
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    • v.29 no.5
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    • pp.293-298
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    • 2016
  • In this paper, Glass Fiber Reinforced Thermoplastic (GFRTP) for automotive headlight source module was fabricated by compounding and injection molding using PPS (Poly Phenylene Sulfide) resin with glass fiber which has three cross section (round type, cocoon type, flat type). Tensile, flexural, impact properties were investigated on effect of cross section, glass fiber contents. And it was observed flatness, dimensional stability, fluidity depending on glass fiber cross section. As a result, flat glass fiber reinforced thermoplastic's mechanical properties were most excellent. Also, dimensional stability and flatness showed better results when using flat glass fiber.

A Study on Purchasing Behavior and Fit Satisfaction on the Direct Imported-U.S. Apparel Brand and Products - Focusing on Korean Female University Students in 20s - (미국 직수입 의류 브랜드와 제품에 대한 구매 행동과 맞음새 만족도 조사 - 20대 한국 여대생을 대상으로 -)

  • Choi, Sun-Yoon;Chun, Jong-Suk
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.18 no.6
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    • pp.1127-1137
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    • 2010
  • As directly imported apparel brands are actively entering the domestic market, studies of the marketing aspects of these imported apparel products and their overall consumption trend have been done. However, studies of whether are not the directly imported apparel products provide Korean consumers with an appropriate fit are not as common. Therefore, this study investigates the satisfaction with and problems associated with the fit along with the recognition of and preference for directly imported US apparel brands. 100 female college students who purchased directly imported US apparel brands participated in a survey. The results of this survey showed that their recognition of, preference for, possession rate of and satisfaction with the directly imported US apparel brands tend to be high. The major purchasing motivations were the excellent 'design' and 'color' of the products. The subjects reported that they were satisfied with the quality of 'materials' and 'sewing condition'. However, they were not satisfied with the 'comfort' or the 'size'. Their level of satisfaction with the fit of these products differed depending on the specific item. Their level of satisfaction with the fit of T-shirts and knits was high, whereas the level for pants was relatively low. They complained mostly about the sleeve length and garment length of upper-body garments and coats. They were not satisfied with how the pants fit. The areas of dissatisfaction regarding the pants were the waist girth, the crotch length and the pants length.

Comparative analysis of men's slim pants patterns - Using a 3D CLO virtual garment system - (남성 슬림 팬츠 패턴 비교 분석 - 3D CLO 가상착의 시스템을 활용하여 -)

  • Kim, Kyung-A;Hong, Eun-Hee;Uh, Mi-Kyung
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.22 no.4
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    • pp.605-618
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    • 2014
  • This study aims to compare the ease of men's slim pants patterns, and to analyze the fit and appearance through the 3D virtual garment system. The study selected four educational materials and one industrial pattern of slim pants for a total of five items. The CLO 3D Modelist program was utilized to carry out the appearance evaluation through virtual wearing and opacity, and a comparison was performed regarding the clothing pressure when the virtual model was standing and walking. The results of our comparison of the patternmaking for slim pants showed that pattern C pants had the greatest ease on the waist circumference, while B pants showed no ease. The C and E pants also had the most ease on the hip measurement. In the appearance evaluation, A pants received the most favorable results, followed by D, E, B, and C, in descending order. The clothing pressure appeared to be mainly red on the waist, crotch, and hem when standing in all pants, so the clothing pressure was high. While walking, the stress appeared to be different for the left and right parts of the body, and the most significant difference was observed on the thigh area.

An Experimental Study on the Thermal Physiological Response in the Pesticide Proof Clothing Textile Materials for a Fruit-grower (과수용 농약방제복 소재 특성에 따른 인체생리반응에 관한 연구)

  • Hwang, Kyoung-Sook;Kim, Kyung-Ran;Lee, Kyung-Suk;Kim, Hyo-Cher;Baek, Yoon-Jeong
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.32 no.11
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    • pp.1792-1801
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    • 2008
  • This study was to develope the pesticide-proof clothes(PPC) for fruit-grower which has been well known over applied agricultural chemicals. The ergonomic evaluation of PPC were tested in two ways. Male adults volunteered the tests to evaluate the safety to pesticide in the field and the thermal comforts in the climate-chamber($30^{\circ}C$, 60%R.H.). PPC were made of 4 different fabrics. Two of them were on the market(coated non-woven and coated nylon). Others were water-repellent treatment and coated waterproof film by developed polyester. The field study was conducted for farmers growing apples to evaluate pesticide exposure. In this experiment, we collected data with patch test on the head, chest, back, right upperarm, right forearm, left thigh and left calf. From the results, the developed PPC showed the more excellent comfort than an existing PPC with nylon coated polyurethane. But the developed PPC of water-repellent fabric was penetrated into the PPC. Therefore, we designed the functional pesticide-proof clothes of 2 different developed polyester fabrics(water-repellent treatment in chest, abdomen, the lower of back, waist, and calf; coated waterproof film in head, shoulder, the upper of back, the crotch, hip, upper arm and thigh).

A Brief Research on the Ten Years of China Fashion Week

  • Luo, Yuexi;Lu, Yue;Geum, Key-Sook
    • International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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    • v.6 no.2
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    • pp.55-61
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    • 2006
  • China became the largest costume industry and export country since 1994. The fashion market in China has been changed from seller's market to buyer's market. During this period, brand has taken an important part. The fashion industry in China is developing on outlook, function, materials and categories. I want to do this brief research on the ten years of China Fashion Week to review the development of China Fashion Week, which is the symbol of China fashion industry. I hope it can be reference for being comprehended by Chinese and other foreign countries. In 1997, China Fashion Week was called Fashion Design exhibition. The title was modified to be China Fashion Week in 2000. In 2003. the title was developed to China Fashion Week (Spring/Summer Collection) and China Fashion Week (Autumn/Winter Collection). In the past ten years, there have been 300 fashion collections, with 600 fashion designers who joined in the competitions, and thousands of models, reporters and photographers, who took part in China Fashion Week. Recently 200 login fashion brands, 300 fashion designers, more than 500 reporters and 50 model management companies have made a relationship with China Fashion Week. The first moment of China Fashion Week- "famous designer project": paying attention to the relationship between the level of fashion designers and the style of brands. Quite a good deal of fashion design became more practical. The second moment of China Fashion Week- "improving Chinese fashion brands ": fashion show was not a kind of stage art but the business dealing for brand during that period. The situation of China Fashion Week now: Chinese Haute Couture is showed wonderfully during China Fashion Week. Fashion contest became the character of China Fashion Week. The contests were for adult fashion designers, new designers, models, and photographers. According to the development between different countries on fashion, the international communication of China Fashion Week became more and more popular and wide. Fashion designers from France, Italy, New York, Korea and Japan had fashion shows in China Fashion Week. The Chinese top fashion designers were showing their work during Paris, Milan and New York fashion shows.

Study on the Current Situation of Shroud Design, and Direction for the Development of Hanji Shroud Designs (수의(壽衣)현황 및 한지수의(韓紙壽衣)디자인 방향에 관한 연구)

  • Jeon, Yang-Bae;Geum, Key-Sook
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.61 no.4
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    • pp.92-102
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    • 2011
  • This study researches the current status of shrouds and analyzes the current status of the Hanji shrouds and sets its goal on suggesting the direction for a futuristic shroud design, suitable for the changing funeral culture. For this, the characteristics of traditional shrouds were studied, standard shrouds' and Hanji shrouds' current statuses were researched and analyzed to suggest the development diretion for design of Hanji shrouds. The results of the research showed that the Hanji shrouds are superior in cremation and burial, and the design expressions were more effective. Also the previously established shrouds were shown to have an increase in value through use of different materials, changing designs through various patterns, or through the added symbolic value. Thus the direction of shroud development designs based on the advantages of Hanji have been drawn out to as follows: First, traditional shrouds used the ceremonial dresses, such as official uniforms or wedding dresses, from the Tang dynasty which made it multicolored. Afterwards colors were limited with the use of hemp clothes shrouds but with the appearance of Hanji shrouds, the possibility for mulitcolors and patterns became larger. Second, Hanji is superior in its expression of colors and patterns, making designs with symbolic sides such as religion possible, to meet the demands of the customers. Third, Hanji shrouds are more environmentaly friendly than the standard shrouds in cremation and burial, and it presents a much better image of shrouds for the future society. Such development of Hanji shrouds design developments satisfies the distinct and gentrified demands of the customers and it looks to be able to suggest an opportunity for environmentaly friendly actions while preparing itself for the chaning market demands and values.

Preparation and Properties of Bio-inspired Waterborne Polyurethanes Containing Different Amount of Paraffin Wax

  • Kim, Hye-Lin;Kim, Ae-Li;Lee, Young-Hee;Kim, Sung Yeol;Park, Cha-Cheol;Rahman, Mohammad Mizanur;Kim, Han-Do
    • Textile Coloration and Finishing
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    • v.30 no.1
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    • pp.9-19
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    • 2018
  • To prepare bio-inspired antifouling coating materials having similar structure with lotus, self-crosslinkable waterborne polyurethanes emulsions containing paraffin wax (CWPU/P0, 0.25, 0.5, 1.0, 1.5, 2.0, the number indicated the wt% of wax) were prepared by an emulsifier-free/solvent free prepolymer mixing process. The as-polymerized CWPU/P emulsions containing 0 - 1.00wt% of paraffin wax were found to be stable after 4 months, however, CWPU/P emulsions containing 1.50 and 2.00wt% of paraffin wax were unstable within 1 month storage. Considering the stability of emulsions, the optimum paraffin wax content was found to be about 1wt% to obtain stable antifouling coating emulsion material. The surface topology of CWPU/P film samples was characterized by atomic force microscopy (AFM). This study examined the effect of paraffin wax content on the surface roughness, water contact angle/surface energy, water swelling, light transmittance and tensile properties of CWPU/P film samples.

Development of Source Profiles for Asbestos and Non-asbestos Fibers by SEM/EDX (SEM/EDX를 이용한 석면 및 비석명의 오염원분류표 개발)

  • Choi, Young-A;Lee, Tae-Jung;Kim, Dong-Sool
    • Journal of Korean Society for Atmospheric Environment
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    • v.23 no.6
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    • pp.718-726
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    • 2007
  • There are many varieties of asbestos: chrysotile, crocidolite, amosite, tremolite, actinolite, and anthophylite. These are widely used in construction materials, brake lining, textile, and so on. Even though non-asbestos fibers such as glassfiber and rockwool have manufactured because asbestos causes asbestosis, lung cancer, mesothelioma, etc., some bad effects of non-asbestos have been also reported. PCM (phase contrast microscopy) and PLM (polarized light microscopy) have been used to qualitatively analyze asbestoses. These techniques have serious drawbacks when identifying and separating various asbestoses. Recently scanning electron microscopy (SEM) equipped with energy dispersive X-ray analysis (EDX) has been known as an useful tool to analyze airborne particle since it provides physical and chemical information simultaneously. The purpose of the study was to classify both asbestos and non-asbestos fibers and finally to develop their source profiles by using the SEM/EDX. The source profiles characterized by 6 different types of asbestos fibers and 2 types of non-asbestos fibers had been developed by analyzing a total of 380 fibers. Analytical parameters used in this study were length, width, aspect ratio, and shape as physical information, and Na, Mg, Al, Si, K, Ca, Cr, Mn, Fe, and Cu as chemical information. All the parameters were intensively reviewed.