• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.24 no.1
• /
• pp.146-155
• /
• 2022

We proposed a simple process of creating electroconductive textiles by using PEDOT:PSS(Poly(3,4-ethylenedioxythiophene):poly(styrenesulfonate))/non-oxidized graphene to coat polyamide or polyurethane knitted fabric for smart healthcare purposes. Electroconductive textiles were obtained through a coating process that used different amounts of PEDOT:PSS/non-oxidized graphene solutions on polyamide/polyurethane knitted fabric. Subsequently, the surface, electrical, chemical, weight change, and elongation properties were evaluated according to the ratio of PEDOT:PSS/non-oxidized graphene composite(1.3 wt%:1.0 wt%; 1.3 wt%:0.6 wt%; 1.3 wt%:0.3 wt%) and the number of applications(once, twice, or thrice). The specimens' surface morphology was observed by FE-SEM. Further, their chemical structures were characterized using FTIR and Raman spectroscopy. The electrical properties measurement (sheet resistance) of the specimens, which was conducted by four-point contacts, shows the increase in conductivity with non-oxidized graphene and the number of applications in the composite system. Moreover, a test of the fabrics' mechanical properties shows that PEDOT:PSS/non-oxidized graphene-treated fabrics exhibited less elongation and better ability to recover their original length than untreated samples. Furthermore, the PEDOT:PSS/non-oxidized graphene polyamide/polyurethane knitted fabric was tested by performing tensile operations 1,000 times with a tensile strength of 20%; Consequently, sensors maintained a constant resistance without noticeable damage. This indicates that PEDOT:PSS/non-oxidized graphene strain sensors have sufficient durability and conductivity to be used as smart wearable devices.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.25 no.1
• /
• pp.119-126
• /
• 2023

This study aimed to determine the effects of relative humidity and fiber properties on the moisture permeability of multilayer systems by measuring water vapor transmission in the overlapping condition of various fabrics. The results confirmed that the property of the fabric in contact with the humid environment affects the moisture permeability. If the layer facing the humid environment is hydrophobic and the layer facing the dry environment is superhydrophobic, water vapor transmission increases by up to 17.8% compared to the opposite conditions. Comparing the correction values of the water vapor transmission reflecting the thickness of the specimen under the multilayer condition showed that permeability was higher when the hydrophilic or hydrophobic layer was facing the humid environment. The opposite was true from the "push-pull" effect of absorption mechanism. In the case of moisture permeability, the more hydrophilic the surface facing the humid environment, the more permeable that water vapor diffuses and passes through. It was concluded that the "pull-push" effect, in which water vapor diffuses widely through the hydrophilic facing a humid environment and then passes through the hydrophobic layer, contributes to the improvement of permeability. Permeability differed according to the multilayer overlapping condition. When the relative humidity was high, the "pull-push" effect was insignificant. This is caused by water droplets absorption after the partial migration of water due to condensation. These results suggest that the overlapping conditions and properties of fabrics should vary depending on heavy sweating or not.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.62 no.7
• /
• pp.13-28
• /
• 2012

This study examines history of Korean peony patterns and characteristics of peony patterns on the fabric. It is classified according to expression methods, and it analyzes the characteristics of 71 kinds of peony woven on 66 Korean fabrics. First, it was observed that 38 of the 66 studied fabrics (57.6%) were relics from the 17th century, and from this it can be deduced that the peony patterns began to appear regularly around the latter half of the 16th century and were used habitually in the 17th century. Second, 71 kinds on 66 fabrics can be divided into Real Type, Design Type, and Abstraction Type according to expression methods. Among these types, 49 kinds of them are Real Types (69.0%), forming the greatest part and 19 kinds belonging to the Design Type (26.8%), and lastly, 3 kinds were under the Abstraction Type (4.2%). In particular, peony patterns of Design Types and Abstraction Types from the 17th century and from the 19th century to the 20th century were more prevalent, compared with those before the 16th century or the 18th century. Third, Real Types shown on the Korean fabrics are subdivided into 9 types, and the Real Type A among them, which describes to be as real as possible, is 12 kinds, the largest number of them. Therefore, real and natural pattern of peony is the favorite type in Korea, while rather emphasized pattern of peony is the more preferred pattern in China. And also Design Types are subdivided into 6 types again; There are 6 kinds of design type A, the largest part of Design Types. Patterns of Design Type A are most similar to real peony flowers, but more simplified than the Real Type A. This result also contrasted with the trend in China, where the Design Type C, expressed petals in detail was the favored pattern. Fourth, 9 kinds of unique types are found in Korean fabrics, especially Real Type M has not been shown on Chinese fabrics. Real type M, consisting of two parts, inner and outer, where two curve lines between two parts appear as antennas of a butterfly.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.23 no.4
• /
• pp.263-273
• /
• 2011

Digital textile printing(DTP) technology made considerable advances in recent years. In this study, a pre-treatment agent has been prepared for the better coloration of digital textile printing. The ink formulation contained three kinds of 5g thickener (CMC, Sodium alginate, Dextrin), 25g urea, 5g sodium carbonate, and 465g distilled water. The optimal sharpness of outline was found in the 1-3% concentration of the pre-treating agent with a viscosity of 10-15 cSt. Even if the color difference between untreated and treated samples was not apparent in the printing step, the color appearance increased after steaming. The color appearance of cyan, magenta, yellow, black reactive colorants increased in the order of CMC>Sodium alginate>Dextrin. Wash fastness to shade change and staining for the treated samples were 4-5 rating, while untreated sample was 1-2 rating. Also, the pre-treated sample with 1:1 mixtures had 4-5 rating. Both dry and wet rubbing fastness to shade change and staining were excellent in the treated samples, whereas rubbing fastness of untreated sample was 1-2 rating. With exception of 3 rating to black color, light fastness properties were 4 rating for the remaining three colors in the regardless of treatment condition and mixing of pre-treating agents. Dry cleaning fastness of all samples were also 4-5 rating irrespective of treatment condition and mixing of pre-treating agents.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
• /
• 2011.03a
• /
• pp.95-95
• /
• 2011

가방지 중에서 고급 브랜드의 핸드백은 근래의 세계적인 경기불황에서도 꾸준한 소비층을 형성하면서 매출 상승을 유도하고 있는데, 기존 40~50대 시니어들을 위한 전통적인 레자 또는 자카드 문양직물의 고유한 디자인 뿐만 아니라 20~30대의 젊은 층을 위한 다양한 칼라의 프린팅 문양 직물도 많이 개발되고 있는 실정이다. 본 연구는 잠재권축사와 고강력PET를 이용하여 이소재 복합 ATY를 제조하고 제직 및 날염을 통해 다양한 프린팅 문양을 발현할 수 있는 가방지용 직물 개발에 관한 것이다. 최근의 캐주얼 및 힙합룩은 물론, 베이직 정장 차림까지 트렌디한 우븐 백이 코디 아이템 1호로 떠오르고 있는데, 가방용 브랜드 중"레스포색"과 "키플링" 등이 급상승 기류를 타며 국내에 빠르게 정착하고 있으며 수입 브랜드인 경전상사의 "롱샴"도 폴딩백으로 인기를 누리고 있다. 핫 이슈인 스포티즘을 떠올리지 않더라도 최근의 변화는 소비자의 니즈를 적극 수용하려는 패션잡화 업체들의 움직임을 대변하고 있으며, 직물형태의 백이 합리적인 가격에서나 가볍고 편리한 실용적인 부분 모두 소비자의 니즈를 채워주기에 충분하고, 트렌드가 부각된 가방일수록 시즌에 따라 스피디하게 구매가 이뤄지고 있다는 장점이 있어서, 최신 트렌드의 디자인과 재료 효과를 극대화한 제품이 다수 선보이고 있다. 본 연구에서는 이러한 다양한 트렌드 디자인의 문양 발현을 위한 직물을 위해 PET Base의 잠재권축사와 PET 고강력사를 사용하였는데, 이때 사용되는 잠재권사는 Effect사로써 온도, Air압 등의 공정요소 제어를 통해 Soft한 touch을 위한 잔루프를 발현하도록 하였으며, PET 고강력사는 Core사로 사용함으로써 잠재권축사의 강도를 보강하여 가방지로써 요구되는 강력을 가질 수 있도록 하였다.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.6 no.2
• /
• pp.163-168
• /
• 2004

The domestic textile industry is currently making an active effort to present high value-added materials that can respond immediately to the wants and needs of consumers sensitive to the of originality of design and emotionally appealing fashion materials. This paper attempted to present the creative development of materials in the contemporary clothing culture in which consumers' needs are individualized and differentiated and the cycle of life in fashion materials is getting shorter. To be specific, the paper presented the texture of peculiar expression to diverse cotton materials using the Woolsmok technique in the processing of felt. The chosen Merino wool was felted to 8 kinds of cotton with different density and structure. The touch, texture, visibility and complex susceptibilities of new materials were presented as different materials of cotton and wool were transformed into one material. In felting cotton fiber through wool, the transformation of diverse textures was presented and compared in the method using the washing machine in an attempt to enhance the efficiency of the traditional craft technique and work. This study proposed the possibility of placing the new material made up of cotton and wool beyond the range of functionality of each simple material, activating it as the peculiar material and expanding it to the range of its use as fashion material in the clothing industry. It is expected that this material will become competitive material at home and abroad by being activated as the clothing material of artistry, workability and marketability that can satisfy the tastes of consumers who call for high quality and diversification.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.18 no.4
• /
• pp.45-65
• /
• 2014

The importance of the cultural identity of each country is emphasized among the new cultural paradigm of the 21st century. Leading world-wide trends, overseas licensed fashion magazines have expressed characteristics close to the culture and lifestyle of each country at the same time. The goal of this study was focused on finding out the differences and similarities between overseas licensed fashion magazine, or if the content would be compared to the aesthetic characteristics and criteria of the country they were published in. To accomplish this, we extracted the color, material and modifier from the scripts of the Korean and Japanese editions of VOGUE published during S/S in 2012 for comparative analysis of the aspects of color, fabrics and modifier between Japan and Korea. There were common but also unique characteristics, as the issues of VOGUE KOREA and VOGUE JAPAN published during the research period had modifier to fit each season and trend, the emergence of color and fabric. Especially, the kind and frequency of color, fabric and modifier could be considered as expressing their own unique fashion culture. In case of Korea, maximal with colorful and decorative image is especially strong, while in Japan the soft and gentle feminine image was rather strong.

• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
• /
• v.29 no.2
• /
• pp.217-224
• /
• 2010

Research has been conducted to examine the effects of mechanical and sound characteristics of fabrics on affective quality. The present study developed the Affective Quality Evaluation and Estimation System for Textiles (AQEEST) with distinguished features that can be effectively used in the affective research of fabric frictional sound. The AQEEST consists of three subsystems (affective quality evaluation, affective quality estimation, and audible distance estimation subsystems) and each subsystem consists of three to four modules (e.g., evaluation condition setup, evaluation experimentation, and textile database management modules) depending on its functional requirements. The affective quality evaluation subsystem was designed to help administer an experiment in a systematic manner and present acoustic and visual stimuli simultaneously in various gait conditions (walking, jogging, and running) to mimic a more realistic situation of textile frictional sound production. Next, the affective quality estimation subsystem was designed to estimate the sound characteristics, affective qualities, overall psychological satisfaction, and reference cluster of a textile using its mechanical and/or sound characteristic information. Lastly, the audible distance estimation subsystem was designed to estimate the just noticeable sound pressure levels and audible distances of a textile for various gait conditions using its mechanical characteristic information. The AQEEST can be upgraded by accommodating more affective quality study results for various textiles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.58 no.5
• /
• pp.153-165
• /
• 2008

The methods used in determining the weaving period of the textiles comprises not only radiocarbon dating but also discrimination of the motif and the textile structure. This study surveys the variation of the structure and the characteristics of the patterned textile of the Joseon dynasty to determine the weaving period. The number of twill gradually decreased in the Joseon dynasty while satin weave became more popular and the non-patterned twill almost vanished after 1600 A.D. The patterned plain weave was started to weave from the beginning of the Joseon dynasty but this has been shifted to twill, satin weave, floated weave, or the textiles with combined techniques more than 2 kinds after 1800 A.D. For the twist of threads, the number of the fabrics with Z-twisted thread in the warp and the non-twisted thread in the weft showed peak in 1600 A.D. and gradually decreased afterward. After 1600 A.D., the textile without twist became general trend.The satin weave started to appear with the 5-end satin in the beginning of the Joseon dynasty but the 8-end satin started to appear from the middle of 17th century and got more popularity with time. At the same period, the patterned textile on the ground of the satin weaved with the different techniques from the earlier period started to appear. The twist of the satin in the 1600 A.D. showed similar trends as twill, this general trend resulted from the fact that the non-twisted thread in the weaving became more popular with the time at that period.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.7 no.4
• /
• pp.121-128
• /
• 2003

A new textile material, poly(trimethylene terephthalate) polymer, has been introduced to the textile industry. The structure of PTT is similar to the PET, while the tensile deformation and subsequent recovery property is better than that of PET. In this study, the physical and mechanical properties of textile woven fabrics made of PTT, PET, and nylon 6 yarns as the filling yarn were determined using the Kawabata Evaluation System (KES), including tensile, bending, shearing, compression, and surface related parameters. On top of these measurements, the subjective ratings by evaluators were performed on the fabric samples. From the examination of the stress-strain behavior of the yarn specimens focused on the recovery mode, it was evident that the PTT specimen developed lower stress at 3% elongation. The subsequent recovery curve showed that the PTT has less stress-decay rate than the other specimens, implying that the recovery behavior of the PTT is recommendable for the end-uses including stretchable textile materials, sports wears, etc. The KES bending rigidity(B) value of the PTT sample fabric was lower than that of the PET sample fabric. Subjective evaluation of the fabric samples by the evaluators on the descriptive word pair "soft - not soft" showed similar tendency with the KES B determination of the fabric samples.