• 한국컴퓨터그래픽스학회논문지
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.37-45
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• 2002

본 논문은 매우 안정적이며 동시에 사실적인 직물 시뮬레이션 기법을 제안한다. 제안된 방법을 통해 안정성을 향상시킴으로써 고정된 큰 시간 간격을 사용할 수 있게 되었고, 따라서 복잡한 옷감의 변형 및 움직임을 효율적으로 시뮬레이션 할 수 있었다. 또한 제안된 방법은 직물의 가장 중요한 특성중의 하나인 주름 현상을 자연스럽게 표현한다. 안정성과 사실성에서 동시에 큰 향상을 가져올 수 있었던 것은, 수치적 안정성 외에 옷감의 좌굴 후 거동시의 불안정성을 극복함으로써 가능했다. 좌굴에 의한 불안정성은 직물의 구조적 불안정성으로부터 기인하며 단순히 암시적 시적분 방법을 사용함으로써 해결되지 않는다. 그러한 불안정성은 감쇠력을 더하여 안정성을 회복할 수 있으나 직물의 움직임을 둔화 시켜 사실적인 움직임을 얻을 수 없게 한다. 본 논문에서는 즉좌굴(immediate buckling) 가정에 기반 한 새로운 직물의 좌굴 모형을 제시한다. 즉좌굴 가정은 직물이 좌굴되는 순간 안정한 상태로 곧바로 변형되는 것을 의미하며, 이러한 가정을 통해 가상적인 감쇠력을 더하지 않고도 안정적으로 직물을 시뮬레이션 할 수 있다. 결과적으로 즉좌굴 모델은 직물의 고유한 좌굴 현상을 적절히 모델링하여 안정성을 향상시킬 뿐 아니라 외부 힘에 민감하게 반응하는 직물의 움직임을 사실적으로 생성할 수 있도록 한다.

• International Journal of Human Ecology
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.43-52
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• 2006

This study analyzed and compared the color characteristics of preferred textiles for blouses and shirts of college students. After the survey of preference in fabrics for blouses and shirts of college students according to season, colors of preferred fabrics were analyzed. Spectral data were measured and a chromaticity diagram was drawn. The color of shirt fabric that college students preferred in the spring/fall was PB (Purple-Blue) and light shades, and in summer, PB color and pale shades. Generally achromatic black or a simple color that is close to an achromatic color, light and soft shades were preferred. For blouse fabric, PB, d (dull) and g (grayish) tones were preferred in spring/fall, G (Green) and It., d. were preferred in summer. Achromatic white and medium, soft shaded chromatic especially greenish colors were preferred. In spring fall, regardless of the clothing item, PB was the most preferred color. Y (Yellow) was the most preferred color for shirts, and for blouses, R (Red) was the most preferred. For achromatic color, black is preferred for shirts, white is preferred for blouses. In summer, the color of preferred shirt fabric was PB, and blouse fabric had a lot of G color. College students prefer simple colors which are close to achromatic colors, and light and soft color were preferred for shirt fabric and they preferred various, medium shaded and closer to pure colors for blouses because college students tend to consider the aesthetic side as important and usually wear blouses less often than shirts.

• 복식
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• 제53권4호
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• pp.113-129
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• 2003

This study examined textiles used for the ancient costumes that are excavated from tombs of the Chosun dynasty, focusing especially on Po(overcoat). The result of the study is that silk occupies 79.8% of all the textiles used for Po, and cotton and linen follow. The weaving method of silk was primarily plain and satin weaves. However the use of twill, gauze, and double weave, that had led weaving methods of silk during the Koryo dynasty, are considerably decreased in Chosun dynasty. Danlyeong(단령) and Cheollik(첩리) had been made of various textile fabrics like cotton, linen, silk and blended fabric before Imjinwaeran(임진왜란). After the war, they were simplified in gauze weaved silk or satin weaved silk, And also patterned fabric were widely used for them than other Po. Simple fabrics like cotton, linen and plain weaved silk had been used for Aekjureum(액주름) and Jiklyeong(직령) before Imjinwaeran. After the war, Jiklyeong was used as underwears of Danlyeong, so it was made of high quality patterned silk. Dopo(도포) and Changuiryu(창의류) were mainly excavated from tombs after the war, high quality plain weaved silk are used than gorgeous Patterned silk. For the Dopho(답호) and Bansuui(반수의), before the war, they were made with various textiles such as plain weaved silk, twill weaved silk, satin weaved silk, cotton, linen, and blended fabric. But after the war plain weave was mainly used. In Jangui(장의), since it was mostly for women, many kinds of women's patterned silk were used in than any other Po. There were only a few excavation of Simui(심의) and most of them were made of ramie and were hemmed in black satin without pattern.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권11호
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• pp.1792-1801
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• 2008

This study was to develope the pesticide-proof clothes(PPC) for fruit-grower which has been well known over applied agricultural chemicals. The ergonomic evaluation of PPC were tested in two ways. Male adults volunteered the tests to evaluate the safety to pesticide in the field and the thermal comforts in the climate-chamber($30^{\circ}C$, 60%R.H.). PPC were made of 4 different fabrics. Two of them were on the market(coated non-woven and coated nylon). Others were water-repellent treatment and coated waterproof film by developed polyester. The field study was conducted for farmers growing apples to evaluate pesticide exposure. In this experiment, we collected data with patch test on the head, chest, back, right upperarm, right forearm, left thigh and left calf. From the results, the developed PPC showed the more excellent comfort than an existing PPC with nylon coated polyurethane. But the developed PPC of water-repellent fabric was penetrated into the PPC. Therefore, we designed the functional pesticide-proof clothes of 2 different developed polyester fabrics(water-repellent treatment in chest, abdomen, the lower of back, waist, and calf; coated waterproof film in head, shoulder, the upper of back, the crotch, hip, upper arm and thigh).

• 감성과학
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.93-104
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• 2014

본 연구는 수분감응형섬유와 이들로 만들어진 니트의 흡습성, 건조특성 그리고 수분자발신장성과 같은 물성과 이들 니트소재의 여러 가지 염색시간과 온도에 따른 염색특성을 조사한다. 이를 위해서 HEF와 spandex를 심사로 사용하고 일반 PET와 aerocool 필라멘트를 커버링사로 사용한 3가지의 커버링사 시료를 준비하고 이들을 사용하여 3가지의 니트시료를 편직하고 이들을 염색온도와 시간을 달리하여 염색을 실시하였다. 3가지 니트시료의 흡습성, 건조특성 그리고 가역적 수축현상 등의 물성을 측정하고 실의 특성과 함께 분석하였으며 이들 니트시료의 용성을 FAST 시스템을 사용하여 측정하고 분석하였다. 그리고 이들 니트시료의 염착성, 색차 그리고 세탁견뢰도 등과 같은 염색특성을 측정하고 수분감응형 니트소재의 염색공정특성을 알아보기 위해 염색시간과 온도에 따른 이들 염착특성을 분석하였다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.102-120
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• 2005

Three Jang-Ue's and eleven drapery were investigated in the excavated costume in Ue-Ryeong, Gyeong-Sang-Nam-Do. Three Jang-Ue's have three different colors. the length, the width, and the wide of quilting are different as well. The outer collar of a coat is a double collar while the inturned collar is a single collar. In case of Dark blue and Pink Jang-Ue. The large section of cloth forming the body of a Korean coat is getting narrower while the reinforcing cloth strip is getting wider as the time is passing by. All the three Jang-Ue's have the different handling methods of a attached to the top border of a Korean coat, and Pink Jang-Ue doesn't have a attached to the tip border of a Korean coat. The handling method of the hemline are all different. And the handling method of the cuffs are all different. The silk is main in the woven goods, partly hemp, mixed fabrics and cotton. Especially complex gauze with supplementary wefts that were found unusually in Cho-Sun Dynasty are very import to study the complex gauze. The fond relics of the Jeon-Ui Lee family reveal various formational methods and specific characters of the excavated costume. There fore these that bring the Jang-Ue shape and the textile's feature in Gyeong-Sang-Nam-Do region, from 16th to 17th are very valuable.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.16-24
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• 1999

The effects of two-step fixation of steaming and baking on the dischargeability of cotton fabrics dyed with C.I. Reactive Black 5(Bl-5) were investigated when the concentrations of $K_2CO_3$ and benzaldehyde sodium bisulfite(BASB) were increased over 120/kg. Remarkably increased dischargeability resulted from baking for 3 min or more at 160t after steaming for 8 min or more at $102^\circ{C}$, but 120g/kg or more amounts of $K_2CO_3$ and BASB(50%) had little influence on dischargeability. Therefore the discharge mechanism can be suggested that covalent bonds between cellulose and Bl-5 undergo $S_N2$ attack by hydroxide ion formed by the reaction of $K_2CO_3$ and water in steaming at $102^\circ{C}$ first and then, through transition states they are cleavaged in baking at 160t to yield hydrolyzed Bl-S and compounds of BASB and Bl-5 isolated from fiber, which are undyeable and removed by washing. The effect of urea, one of the hydrotrope agents, on discharge printing was also studied. The result which dischargeability was greatly improved by increasing the steaming time from 8 min to 15 min at $102^\circ{C}$ or by increasing the amount of urea obviously shows that water in steaming and urea in print paste play an important role in discharge printing. And as an increase of the baking time from 5 min to 7 min at $160^\circ{C}$ makes it possible to improve dischargeability, it is once more confirmed that high temperature of about 160t is exactly required to discharge the dyed Bl-5. The colored discharge printing demands a more amount of urea because urea contributes to the putting color fixation as well as the discharge reaction.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.83-89
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• 1996

Carbon black has been used as a particulate soil to prepare artificial soiled fabrics for detergent study but it has two major defects. The one is the difficulty of quantitative analysis of carbon black for evaluate the detergency, the other is that there is no reliable correlation between the removal of carbon black and oily soil which is the major component of natural soil. In this study ferric oxinate was used as a particulate soil since it is in black color and can be soiled on fabric by suspension in water or by solution in chloroform and it is easily analysed quantitatively by extracting it from soiled fabric with chloroform to get correct value of soil removal. The characteristics of soil removal of ferric oxinate were compared with that of carbon black and Sudan black, an oil soluble dye, which had been proved that it's detergency correlated with that of oily soil The soil removal of ferric oxinate and Sudan black estimated from quantitative analysis and from K/S value were in good agreement whereas the result calculated by simple reflectance was consistently low. The soil removal of ferric oxinate was exceeded from that of carbon black without regard to surfactants, Triton and Las, but the effect of washing conditions such as temperature and washing time on soil removal of both soils with different suffactants showed no considerable difference. Though the soil removal of Sudan black was little effected by the conditions, the soil removal in Triton exceeded considerably that of in Las, which is the characteristic of oily soil. Thus the soil removal of Sudan black was in good agreement with ferric oxinate in Triton, a non-ionic surfactant, and with carbon black in Las, an artionic surfactant. We concluded that ferric oxinate is a more realistic model particulate soil for artificial soiled cotton fabric washed with non-ionic surfactant than carbon black.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.314-326
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• 2013

The purpose of this research is to analyze the effects of Dansam and Sappan wood extract to perform combination dyeing on silk fabrics, with respect to color changes, fastness (washing, dry cleaning, perspiration, rubbing and light fastness), and functionality (antibacterial activity and deodorization). Combination dyeing was performed by first combining Dansam with Sappan wood, then Sappan wood with Dansam, in these orders. Given the changes in the combination ratio, pre-mordant treatment was performed. Looking at the surface colors of each dye, Dansam generally produces YR color series, while Sappan wood produces YR, R, and RP color series. The effects of changing the order in which combination dying was performed on the surface colors were as follows. First, combination dyeing (A) was performed by using Dansam before Sappan wood, to produce YR and R color series. Then combination dyeing (B) was performed by using Sappan wood before Dansam, to produce YR, R, and RP color series. By visual inspections, more similar color changes of the combination dyeing were noticed with the post-dyeing material rather than the pre-dyeing material. Therefore, it was presumably confirmed that surface color changes of combination dyeing were greatly influenced by the post-dyeing color. Individual dyeing tests for fastness showed that Dansam was comparatively superior to Sappan wood, which demonstrated lower fastness to washing, dry cleaning, perspiration, and light, relatively. The fastness of combination dyed samples was shown middle, but similar fastness to the post-dye material, The fastness of (B) method was higher than (A) method in the washing and light fastness. This confirms that color fastness from combination dyeing was considerably influenced by the post-dye material. It was found that all dyed samples had a very high bacterial reduction rate of 99.9% and high deodorization rate of 95%.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제21권4호
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• pp.23-32
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• 2009

The objective of this study is to investigate the efficacy of leaf powder colorants as substitutes for traditional indigo dyeing. Leaf powder colorants were prepared by hot air($50^{\circ}C$) and room temperanrre($25^{\circ}C$) drying methods from fresh leaves. The presence of indigo in the leaf powder colorants was confirmed by UV/Visible absorption spectra. All the powder colorants showed broad absorption at 602 nm as same as synthetic indigo. Dyeing was done by reduction method with sodium hydrosulfite and sodium hydroxide. Leaf powder colorants produced blue color on silk fabrics, showing similar color to the one dyed traditionally with fresh juice extract. The powder colorants prepared at room temperature drying were more stable for long term storage than that prepared by hot air drying. Thus, the powder colorants prepared by room temperature drying was reduced and dyed in one-step process without sodium hydroxide in the dyebath for further investigate dyeing properties. K/S value of the fabric dyed without sodium hydroxide was much higher than one dyed with sodium hydroxide. Regardless of the addition of sodium hydroxide, rubbing fastness was fairly good showing above 4 rating. Fastness to dry cleaning and light of the fabrics dyed without sodium hydroxide were mote higher than that dyed in alkaline condition.