• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.337-343
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• 2009

This study systematically investigated a method for extraction of safflower (Carthamus tinctorius Linnaeus) colorants by ultrasonic treatment. Compared to pigments productivity and cell wall structures of safflower after general and ultrasonic method, the ultrasonic method showed high extraction efficiency of safflower pigments due to destruction of safflower cell wall caused by high vibration energies. Microscopic analysis confirmed the hypothesis that the ultrasonic treatment of safflower caused its cell wall structure loosened and made efficient extraction of safflower pigments. And also, LC-MS/MS analysis revealed that productivities of the yellow and red safflower pigments by ultrasonic method were 21.9% and 14.6% higher, respectively, than those of pigments extracted by general method. The ultrasonic extracted yellow and red colorants could be used to dye not only natural fibers like cotton, silk and wool, but also synthetic fiber like nylon, and generally gave a better color tone than the general extracted colorants from safflower due to the affinities of red and yellow colorant on different fibers. As the yellow and red colorant were extracted by ultrasonic treatment in water, the K/S value on of 550/440nm of cotton and rayon was increased but in the case of silk and wool the change of this value was almost not detected. Finally, this technique might provide a solution to establish reproducibility and standardization for the extraction and dyeing methods on fabrics.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.434-445
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• 2014

The meaning of this research is to make recognition for necessity of ergonomic fashion design research. And the purpose is to provide the guidelines for ergonomic fashion product development. For this, literature research and analysis of empirical illustration of product design indicating ergonomics characteristic are implemented. Among the body-conscious active sportswear, cycle wear, swim suit, and skin scuba wet suit were selected and analyzed. Then they were explained according to the ergonomics characteristics arranged previously. Lastly, the features of ergonomic fashion design were arranged by composition elements of the clothing such as pattern, sewing, material and detail. The characteristics of ergonomic design derived from literature and advanced researches are efficiency, usability, functionality and safety. Through research and analysis, the characteristics of ergonomic fashion design are as followings. In pattern, it is related to the 3D structure division pattern, the reduction pattern design, the closing & opening part design for easy detachment, the receipt and the changeable design. In sewing, it is related to the use of latest sewing techniques and the finish using silicon or rubber band. In material, it is related to the use of high performance fabrics and the proper arrangement of these. In detail, it is related to the convenient detail, the storage detail, the adjustable detail, and the body protection detail.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권5호
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• pp.472-477
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• 2007

This study was intended to identify the constructing factors and hierarchy of images in the gathered skirts, which is expected to be helpful in shape classification. The gathered skirts were made by different gathering conditions: three kinds of the gathers ratio(1.5T, 2.0T, 2.5T) and different fabrics(cotton, mixed wool, polyester). 45 undergraduate and graduate women students responded to the nine gathered skirts during December in 2004 to February in 2005. 184 words expressing gathered skirt were collected through the investigation and analysis of questionnaires. 32 words arranged in based on the standard form with frequency before conducting factor analysis to identify the constructing factors of gathered skirt images. As a result of factors analysis, 2 factors-H shape, A shape were found out as constructing factors of gathered skirts. To explain the hierarchy of gathered skirt images, cluster analysis was applied. To observe the association of 32 words, dendrogram was introduced, and to interpret the result, five sub clusters were determined. This 5 clusters were continuously combined according to their frequency, based on the factors marks. Two major division of image clusters were 'simple and neat image', and 'fairly good and feminine image'.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제27권4호
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• pp.309-317
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• 2015

This study is the high contraction processing conditions set by the method of the CPB process. And the ultimate goal of this study is the high contraction of the CPB processing test method that can solve the problems of the high-contraction fabric processing method of the current jet dyeing machine. Non-coating process(CPB process) developed by the expression of a soft touch, light weight, functional and to develop excellent breathable nylon fabric. The nylon fabrics established the optimum processing conditions through the high contraction of the various test conditions, the CPB system.(The benzyl alcohol was used as the main constrictor.) At this time, the warp and weft contraction of nylon fabric was about 20%. And it established the constrictor concentration, the treatment temperature, time of a variety of tests. Also non-coating process(CPB process) can develop soft touch, lightweight, excellent air permeability. As a result, we developed a high contraction nylon fabric having a uniform surface. Manufactured fabric is used for Wind-proof and Down-proof.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제26권3호
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• pp.201-208
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• 2014

The high value-added functionality for synthetic fiber can be considered through a plasma enhanced treatment. In this study, PET(Polyethyleneterephthalate) was treated with a glow plasma and corona treatment. Surface characteristics of treated fabric were investigated using electron scanning microscopy(SEM), contact angle, X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy(XPS), tensile and adhesion strength. It was found that the contact angle showed $85.5^{\circ}$ for untreated fabric, $0^{\circ}$ for plasma and corona treatment at the condition of 200W for 7min. By XPS analysis, atomic ratio of O 1s/C 1s was increased from 0.27 to 0.43 by glow plasma and 0.27 to 0.41 by corona treatment at 200W for 7min, respectively. Glow plasma and corona treatment did not significantly change the tensile strength of PET fabric. Adhesion strength showed a substantial enhancement for the surface treated with the glow plasma, while corona treatment was adversely affected.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제29권3호
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• pp.139-147
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• 2017

In this study, interesting area of development is retro-reflective thin film and then slitting to form retro-reflective material to be conbined with other fibers to form having retro-reflective characteristics, which slitting yarn can then be to provide fabrics. Glass beads are microscopic spherical size with diameters ranging from several microns to several millimeters. Applying the effects of optical property, glass beads are consumed for road safety used to make traffic signs, safety clothing and others. Glass beads retro-reflective films can be turned into slit yarns through slitting yarn process. The slit yarns can be combined into textiles using diverse methods such as weaving to provide a fabric having retro-reflective characteristics. Lightness and Luminance was increased with decreasing of interval of slit yarn in the fabric. Also, the hue is shifted greenish and bluish with interval of slit yarn.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.60-70
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• 2003

Textile scientists have regarded the material appearance of natural fibers, especially that of silk or wool fibers, as the benchmark for reinventing the look and feel of the long term, friendly companion of mankind. The appearances or textures of the materials surrounding us in everyday life have long been interesting topics to many people.from scholars to painters. Even the simplest questions may require careful pondering. Why is the silk fabric so lustrous with subtlety? Recently, appearance models have become increasingly important in textile products. They are needed to model and simulate different models. In this study, the optical characteristics of filament yarns and knitted fabrics were investigated using images taken at various angles and illumination conditions. Then the images were analyzed using some image analysis techniques, such as thresholding and measuring luster blobs. The anisotropic nature of the filamentous specimens was studied based on the images acquired at different incident illumination and observing angles with several alignment positions of the fabric specimens. A few cylindrical models were generated using commercially available software, Rhinoceros, and then on the models, a ray-tracing algorithm based on a software, POV-Ray, was applied to simulate the appearance or lustrous images of the monofilament models.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권5호
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• pp.1061-1074
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• 2011

This study was conducted based on a comparative analysis of design-specific features prevalent in the Women's Wear Collection S/S 2011. As the method of this study, the denim styles were classified by various fashion design factors consisting of silhouette, fit, color, and textile fabric, which were extracted from an image database. The properties of denim fabrics associated with each fashion image were investigated to inform fabric development and washing. The results of the study show that the dense and glossy surface of the denim fabric represent a modern trend, which can be achieved by blending lyocell, tencel and rayon or by using different textiles, such as lightweight plain weave and satin instead of twill. For casual look, various washing effects were utilized jean's casual feeling like freedom and activities, while in a modern image, washing effects was restricted. And a glossy textile offers a simple modern look. The Modern image represents a simple H-silhouette and wide or straight fit in bottoms as well. Brightness can be adjusted by washing-induced bleaching. High brightness gives an elegant image, while low brightness makes a casual image. The purpose of this study is to configure a database for the development of design in the growing women's casual wear market. In addition, This study, in which the elements for specific fashion image-making were analyzed, can be used as a reference for developing denim style and fabric.

• 한국문화재보존과학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국문화재보존과학회 2004년도 제20회 발표논문집
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• pp.109-114
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• 2004

The purpose of this study lies in analyzing the characteristics of the carbonized textile fabrics and to know the carbonizing mechanism. Samples were Jiyo excavated from the grave of Mrs. Hansan Lee as the wife of Jinju Kang at Daeduk-gu, Daejon, and black fragements assumed as of the outside material of cotton skirt and black dusts collected out of Jikryung for official dress. The composition and status of the fiber were clarified by means of Microscopic FT-IR and both cross sectioanl and side parts of the fiber were observed using the technique of scanning electron microscopy(SEM). Finally EDS analysis was carried out to qualitatively analyze inorganic ingredients contained in the carbonized fiber. As a result of FT-IR measurement, characteristic peak was very strong around $1625cm^{-1}$ and could be found even between 2500 and $2300cm^{-1}$ because of a high-molecule pigmental substance, melanine. When SEM photography was applied to the fractions, the tissues were identified as silk fiborine through the observation of their side and cross sectional parts. SEM-EDS measurement indicated that both the cotton skirt and Jikryung for official dress contained a high proportion of inorganic substances such as Si, Ca suggesting the existence of silicide and calcium carbonate.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권3호
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• pp.467-476
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• 2013

This study investigates the dyeability and the fastness of flame retardant polyester fabric developed by a thermal bonding with a low melting component of flame retardant bicomponent filament (LMFRPC). The fabrics were prepared with flame retardant polyester filaments (FRP) as warp and blended filaments of FRP and LMFRPC as weft. The LMFRPC have a sheath and a core where the core comprises a flame retardant polyester and the sheath comprises a thermoplastic polyester with a low-melting point. The thermal bonding of fabric was conducted in a pin tenter at $170^{\circ}C$ for 60 seconds. Fabric dyeing was conducted with an infrared dyeing machine at various dyeing temperatures and dyeing times. The dyestuffs used in this study were CI disperse Yellow 54, Red 60 and Blue 56 of E-type dyestuff and Orange 30, Red 167 and Blue 79 of S-type dyestuff. This study investigated the morphology of thermal bonded fabric, dyeability and fastness of dyed fabric. Dyeability increased with an increased dyeing temperature. The thermal bonded area increased with the increased LMFRPC content. The dyeability of S-type dyestuff was higher than E-type dyestuff; in addition, the saturated dyeing time was about 20minutes at $130^{\circ}C$ for E and S-type dyestuff. The fastness to washing and rubbing were excellent at a 4-5 Grade.