• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.634-640
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• 2004

Nowadays, the use of apparel CAD system is important to the mass production of ready to wear. Especially, computer-based grading is the most important process to improve the fitness of clothes and to reduce the time needed to make various size pattern. The purpose of this study was to suggest a standard sizing system for high school boys' pants and to suggest a grading method according to the sizing systems. The subjects were 217 high school boys of 16 to 18 year-old. The size intervals of waist girth and hip girth were 3 cm and 4 cm respectively. The sizing system, which had frequencies more than 4%, was classified 8 cases. Among them, 71-92 and 71-88 size were the most frequent size and were adopted the basic size for the two types of grading. According to the sizing system, hand-made patterns were manufactured. By measure of the each part of the slacks, 4 size's new grading-rule patterns were developed by each size. This result will contribute to clothing fitness of consumer and the amount of production.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.102-115
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• 2015

Due to the diversification of lifestyles and the rapid growth of Internet environments since the 1990s, mass customization has been recently accepted as an important trend in the area of clothing and all other areas. In response to mass customized clothing products, global clothing product brands are introducing systems for mass customization such as the application of digital fashion systems that introduced IT technologies such as CAD and 3D scanners. However, studies of planning factors for clothing products applied with digital fashion systems in the area of mass production of clothing products are insufficient. Therefore, this study was intended to analyze the lifestyles of 20-30s that are expected to have the highest demand for clothing applied with digital fashion systems and present basic planning factors according to lifestyles. Through the analysis, three groups that have one of fashion pursuing type, sensory information pursuing type, and practical function pursuing type lifestyles were derived. Based on this result, consumer demand for digital fashion systems and basic factors for product planning were analyzed to present basic planning factors for digital fashion system based customized clothing by lifestyle group. This study is meaningful in that it provided basic data for product planning through digital fashion systems by analyzing the awareness, preference, necessity, and planning factors of digital fashion systems through the analysis of lifestyle types.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.3 s.151
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• pp.412-424
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• 2006

This paper starts out with a review of the concepts of naturalism and natural clothes. Based on these concepts, the paper aims to create nature-friendly and high-value modem designs by grafting natural images from butterflies into human bodies. The images of butterflies are combined to show distinguished luxury and diversity with natural materials such as denim. As for the design technology, Adove Illustrator 10, Photoshop 7.0, and Prima Vision Textile Design System are used since they are very popular in the CAD system. The followings are the main findings of our research. Naturalism displays its objectivity based on its inherent interest in human nature and its factual description in scientific approaches with an intention to find a true meaning of human life in nature. Natural clothes can be defined as the clothes of natural silhouette which are made of pure materials in natural colors and dyes from natural motifs such as animals, plants or natural phenomena. We have realized that the visually distinguished looks of butterflies are indeed far more luxurious than those of any other insects and this visual distinction can be utilized to attract the attention from designers. Lastly, it turns out that the digital printing technique can create more variety in colors and design forms than the manual printing, thereby providing designers with more options and practicality.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.33-43
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to eximine the effect of different yam twisting methods on mechanical properties and 3D CAD images of plain knitted fabrics made of composite yarns. Six yams were used in this study: four different composite yams of the six consist of acetate and functional polyester (Poly-m) with the ratio of 70:30, and the rest two are the original acetate $100\%$ yam and the poly-m $100\%$ yarn. The four kinds of composite yarns were processed in combinations of twisting processes such as interlacing, false twisting, two for one twisting, combined twisting and single covering, and the two original yams were knitted without any twisting process. Sixteen mechanical properties of all the six knitted fabrics, knitted under the same knitting conditions, were measured by KES-FB system with the outer knit condition. The results were as follows; 1) When the sample applied with the false twisting process at the temperature as high as $220^{\circ}C$, ENT, B, HB, G and RC values of samples increased which leads to increasing dimensional stability. 2) To gain the high bending and shear properties in the single covering process, selecting the core yarn with such properties is the most important factor. 3) Interlacing process effected to increase RC value. 4) False twisting process after interlacing process gave bulkiness and un-interlaced part in yam was increased SMD value. The SMD value of the kilted fabric of the composite yarn, which was put through the combined twist process, was higher than those of which simple process such as the two for one twist or the single covering process applied. In order to achieve the silk-like surface feel of knitted fabric, the sin91e covering process is recommended. 5) Examining the simulation images of the knifed fabrics of composite yarn, which were generated by the 3D CAD system based on the mechanical properties of the fabric, led that appearance could be changed as different twisting methods were applied.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.103-114
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• 2011

During a wearer's movement, the apparel fabric layers collide each other in a highly complicated manner. The collision involves cloth-cloth, and cloth-body collision. The diversity of the textile fabrics, including silk, wool, cotton, and other synthetic fibers, together with the complex details of the apparel construction, makes the collision and other calculation procedure involved in the 3-dimensional clothing software system much more complicated. Therefore, there is a need to measure the behavior of the fabrics during the fabric collision cycles. In this study, as a first step, static measurements pertinent to the factors governing the appearance of the apparel fabrics were implemented. The drape profile, stiffness(Sd and Sf), tensile properties, thickness, and the air permeability were measured. The correlation between the parameters were calculated and reviewed. It is found that there is a high correlation of 0.97 between the actual fabric drape parameters and the 3D virtual fabric drape parameters. The measured drape coefficients of the fabrics show relatively good correlation with the measured fabric stiffness.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2012.03a
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• pp.99-99
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• 2012

소비자의 기호가 다양화되면서 다품종 소량생산에 따른 대량 맞춤화에 대한 관심이 높아지고 있으며, 1990년대 후반부터 급격히 확산되고 있는 인터넷의 발달 및 디지털 기기의 확산에 따라 인터넷을 기반으로 한 전자상거래 환경에서의 대량 맞춤화 프로세스는 최근 의류 분야에서 주요한 경향으로 받아들여지고 있다. 대량 맞춤화 의류 제품의 수요는 인터넷 등 IT 기술의 발달과 맞물려 최근 개인의 특성과 취향을 고려한 인터넷 맞춤서비스를 기반으로 증가추세에 있으며, CAD 등의 테크놀러지의 활용을 통하여 디자인, 패턴제작, 재단 등의 자동 시스템을 도입함으로써 그 영역을 확장하고 있다. 이에 발맞추어 국내에서는 '디지털 패션 시스템'을 통해 3차원 바디 스캔, 3차원 컴퓨터 그래픽스, 3차원 Simulation, DID, DTP, 맞춤주문형 제품의 대량 생산기술 등의 단위 기술이 기업단위로 활용되는 등 가상현실을 이용한 3차원 가상쇼핑 등을 포함하는 기술로서 차세대 섬유패션 산업의 창출에 기여하고 있다. 그 중, 디지털 텍스타일 프린팅은 디자인에서부터 날염까지 전체 공정을 컴퓨터로 처리하여 기존의 복잡한 날염 공정을 단축하여 다품종 소량생산이 가능한 날염 방식으로, 대량 맞춤형 프로세스를 지원하며, 프로슈머(prosumer)로서의 소비자가 직접 참여하여 그들의 욕구를 최대화 할 수 있는 소비자 만족을 극대화 시킬 수 있는 대량 맞춤화 프로세스 중 하나의 단계로 소비자의 수요 반영하는 요소로 작용하고 있다. 즉, 디지털 패션 시스템에서의 디지털 텍스타일 프린팅은 대량 맞춤형 의류 제품에 있어 소비자 만족도와 직결되는 요인으로 분석된다. 따라서, 본 연구에서는 디지털 패션 시스템 기반의 대량맞춤형 섬유제품 및 디지털 텍스타일 프린팅 적용 섬유제품에 대한 기초 평가 문항을 제시하고, 소비자 태도를 분석하여 제시하였다. 또한, 분석된 기초 소비자 태도를 반영하여, 디지털 패션 시스템 기반의 디지털 텍스타일 프린팅(Digital Textile Printing) 의류 제품의 선호도, 인지도, 수요도 및 구입의향을 분석하여 최종적으로 디지털 패션 시스템에 적용된 디지털 텍스타일 프린팅 의류 제품의 수요 경향을 제시하였다.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.124-133
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• 2016

Currently the fashion industry is developing to create a novel culture due to the very sensitive and knowledge-oriented advancement of the IT industry. With fast turnover of information, consumers have come to have a more diverse desire for purchasing. Cubical expression techniques, which empathizes formativeness, can be a creative expression method adjusting into the trend of this era. Along with functional aspects of consumers, even in a textile manufacturing sector, new materials are required to meet sensitive and emotional aspects. Consumers' desire for new and creative designs and the development and adoption of new materials are essential to meet their emotions. The IT industry and fashion industry are forced to combine and a 3D apparel CAD system has been developed, enabling virtual clothing to be represented within a computer virtual space. All processes such as design, pattern creation, sewing and simulation are possible in 3D level. Digital clothing can shorten the production process time and is very effective in that it can reduce clothing waste generated during the sample production. This paper reviewed the works of Dutch designer, Iris van Herpen, who has developed formative designs. She tries to build, construct, and sculpt employing diversified materials other than soft textile materials, as shown in her series of fashion shows. The materials include films, 3D printed polymers, stiff and sheer organza, and artificial leather textiles. A few characteristics of her works have been selected in order to prepare patterns exhibiting the traits. The paper further focused on the physical features of the textile materials used to express similar techniques and its various forms were reviewed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.7
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• pp.1160-1168
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• 2008

The purpose of the study was to examine the effect of motif categories and motif colors on evaluating impressions of dress wearers. The research was conducted on a quasi experimental basis, with subjects numbering 187 male and 207 female college students. Data were collected in the period from march 19th to march 31st, 2007. A set of stimuli of dress wearers and semantic differential scales were developed. The stimuli were thirteen photographs editing by Youngwoo CAD system. Variables included; (a) motif colour(red, blue, achromatic and white) (b) motif categories(flower, paisley, stripes, zebra effect and plain). The semantic differential scale to measure impressions of dress wearer stimuli included 22 sets of hi-polar adjectives. The data were analysed by factor analysis and ANOVA and the major finding were as follows. Four factors emerged to account for dimension of impression. There were salience, attractiveness, comfort and femininity. The motif category effected on the four impression dimensions while the motif color effected on salience, comfort and softness sensory dimensions, and the results supported the gestalt theory of the impression perception.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.303-309
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• 2006

This study intended to compare and analyze marking efficiencies of basic slacks, based on different cloth and production conditions, the width of cloth, the number of marking pieces and the direction for marking deployment and proposed an efficient marking method. The results were as follows. On the whole, the marking efficiencies increased with increasing cloth widths. In the case of small number of marking pieces, the efficiency increased with increasing cloth widths, while, for large number of marking pieces, there was no differences in the efficiency with the cloth widths. From the result of the comparison of the marking efficiencies with the number of marking pieces, it was shown that, in the case of small cloth width, the efficiency increased considerably with increasing number of marking pieces, while, in the case of large cloth width over two markers, there was no distinct effect of the number of markers on the marking efficiency. Thought there were some differences of the marking efficiencies with the marker directions, bi-direction marker was the most efficient marker, followed by one-direction for each size marker and one-direction marker.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.28-43
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• 2013

Recent trends toward the collaborations among various sectors of academia and research areas have brought interests and significances in new activities especially in the fashion and textile areas. One of the collaboration examples is the recent research projects on 3D virtual clothing systems based on the 3D CAD software. The 3D virtual clothing systems provide simulated apparels with high degrees of fidelity in terms of color, texture, and structural details. However, since real fabrics exhibit strong nonlinearity, anisotropy, viscoelasticity, and hysteresis, the 3D virtual clothing systems need fine tuning parameters for the simulation process. In this study, characteristics of silk fabrics, which are woven by using degummed silk and raw silk yarns, are being analyzed and compared. Anisotropic properties may be measured as warp and filling direction properties separately in woven fabrics, such as warp tensile stress or filling bending rigidity. Hysteretic properties may be measured as bending hysteresis or shear hysteresis by using KES measurements. These data provide deformation-force relationships of the fabric specimen. Three-dimensional effects obtained when using these characteristic fabrics are also analyzed. The methods to control the three-dimensional appearance of the sewn fabric specimens when utilizing a programmable microprocessor-based motor device, as prepared in this study, are presented. Based on the physical and mechanical properties measured when using the KES equipment, the property parameters are being into a 3-dimensional virtual digital clothing system, in order to generate a virtual clothing product based on the measured silk fabric properties.