• 제목/요약/키워드: symbolism of costumes

검색결과 59건 처리시간 0.023초

한국 복식의 미적 가치에 대한 고찰 -조선 복식을 중심으로- (The Aesthetic Values of the Korean Traditional Costume)

  • 김윤희
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제21권5호
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    • pp.946-955
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    • 1997
  • The purpose of this study is to present the aesthetic values of the Korean traditional costume for developing 'Korean' fashion design can be accepted in general in the modern times. For this purpose, documentary studies about the aesthetic values of the Korean traditional art and Korean traditional costume were preceded. And the perception of the Korean traditional costume were studied according to Belong's two criteria, body priority/ clothes priority and open/closed. Next, the aesthetic values of the Korean traditional costume were re-defined. The results can be summarized as follows; 1) The aesthetic values of the Korean traditional art are the beauty of nature, the purity, and the pleasantry. As the beauty of nature is the important one, the purity is caused by the love of nature. The pleasantry is as a way of expression. 2) The aesthetic values of the Korean traditional costume through the documentary studies stand for as the beauty of nature, the purity, the beauty of evil's eye, the beauty of symbolism, the beauty of personality, the beauty of tragedy and the beauty of tradition. 3) Korean traditional costume are perceived as clothes priority and open. 4) The aesthetic values of the Korean traditional costume can be re-defined as the beauty of nature, the purity, and the pleasantry. The beauty of nature comes from the 'natural' look, the exposure of the fabric as itself and the organic lines of the Korean traditional costume. The purity comes from the geometrical squared clothing form of Korean traditional costume which doesn't revive the human body form. The Pleasantry is seen the colors and motifs of costumes that have the human's hope and incantation and the exaggeration and distortion of human body form.

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Study on Flow and Symbolism of Elvis Aaron Presley Fashion

  • Yum, Hae-Jung;Kim, Eun-Jun;Kim, Ji-Sun;Kim, Cho-Long
    • International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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    • 제10권1호
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    • pp.67-79
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    • 2010
  • Cultural sensation by appearance of Elvis Aaron Presley is thought to have been greatly influenced by spread of popular culture beginning to form with the development of mess media in USA that was changed rapidly after the war, changing aspect of popular music in U.S.A through the media development and teenager culture of USA that has rapidly emerged. Elvis intended to change into 'music to be seen' deviating from 'music to be simply listened to' with expressing the conversion of sexual consciousness, defiance to older generation and a sense of value on wealth, and the like, and also suggested a new culture and style to the young people at that time. Flow of Elvis's fashion may be categorized into the classifications such as the fashion in the period. First, Formative period(before 1954) distinguished by pimp look and sideburns with tough image and wild clothes. Second, Establishment period(1954-57) may be categorized into the hot rockabilly style which showed a glittering fashion by brilliant and colorful costumes, the cool rockabilly style which changed him to a fashionable star of modem image(1958-60). Third, re-heyday(after 1968) where a brilliant and bold decoration was displayed. In Elvis fashion, the masculine sensualism, defiance to main value and expression of luxury and consuming culture, etc. are included as a unique aesthetic consciousness. 'Expression of masculine sensualism' represented the sensualism through sexual objectification of men's body by men's sexual ostentation which was prohibited. 'Defiance to main value' means that attempts of non-mainstream image for social class are expressed with an exercise of power by young people through the public. Although the Elvis look has fanned an anti-culture, it was expressed and accepted as having a normally capitalistic appearance. In addition, it being thought of as the standard, symbolizing a success and a wealth through the presentation of image which accepted this material benefit, we may classify this into 'expression of luxury and consuming culture'.

중국 청조(淸朝)의 복식 문양과 18세기 프랑스 복식 문양 비교연구 (A Comparative Analysis on the Costume Patterns Between 18th Century France and Chinese Qing Dynasty)

  • 김명은;배수정
    • 복식
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    • 제64권7호
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    • pp.29-44
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    • 2014
  • This thesis aims to compare the representative costume patterns of the Chinese Qing dynasty and contemporary $18^{th}$ century French costumes. As a research method, qualitative research was performed to compare and analyze the patterns of the flowers, the birds and pagoda shown in Qing dynasty and France. The results are as follows: The Chinese flower patterns used the embroidery technique for 3-step gradation colors to decorate flowers with less than 10 petals. Also, the forms of the flowers were large and simple in China. The flower patterns of the 18th century France is more similar to those of Qing dynasty than to the traditional French flower patterns. They used the drawing technique for the gradation colors and completed the work by embroidery. In the case of bird patterns, the crane on menswear, and the phoenix on women's wear were applied to signify the symbolic feature of the Chinese symbolism. On the other hand, those in France were used solely for the division of the gender. As a result the clear form of the birds in China contrasted with the unclear forms of birds in France. During the influx of mandarine square to France from China, the application of crane and phoenix according to gender seems to be stressed emphatically without considering their symbolic meaning. In light of the pagoda pattern, Qing dynasty showed interest only in the form of pagoda, denoting the simple two-tier structure without detailed description. Whereas in France, the pagodas were three or four tiers, with gorgeous colors and much more detail than those of Qing dynasty. In conclusion, the main determinants of influences on the patterns of France from China would be forms, colors, constructions and technique of embroidery, along with the disregard for symbolic significance.

복식에 표현된 몸의 재현성 [II] - 몸의 사실성 변질을 중심으로 - (Representation of the Body in Fashion (II) - Focusing on the Representation of Physicality -)

  • 임은혁
    • 복식
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    • 제56권9호
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    • pp.66-82
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    • 2006
  • Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the representation of the body in fashion focusing on the representation of physicality. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in representing body in fashion, my study examines subjects from the 14th century European costumes to fashion collections of the 20th century. In fashion, representation of the body is visually analogous to the ideal boily shape and structure, including a realistic presentation of the body as well as reflection of aesthetic ideals. Manipulation of physicality entails the reconstruction of the ideal body image through the clothes that modify physicality into unnatural body. Ruff collar, gigot sleeve, crinoline, bustle, stomacher, and corset were all used to materialize the fictitious curves symbolizing femininity, authority, healthiness, maternity, virginity, socioeconomic status, and fertility. Accentuating specific clothing parts represents emphasizing the symbolism of the correspondent body parts. Consequently, in this phase signifiant is $signifi\'{e}$. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the firm of a dress. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

진주목걸이의 상징적 특성과 착용유형에 대한 연구 (A Study on the Symbolic Features and Wearing Types of Pearl Necklaces)

  • 조정미
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제37권8호
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    • pp.1029-1043
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    • 2013
  • The pearl is a highly valuable gem that has historically represented wealth and power. Pearl necklaces have developed intro various types and represent an essential status item for modern women. This study first examines the symbolic and various meanings of pearls. Second, this study examines wearing types and pearl necklace patterns based on historical figures and modern fashion icons famous for personal displays of pearls. This study examines and analyzes various specialty publications about jewels, history of costumes, fashion magazines, academic research data, and internet search results. The conclusion of this study is as follows. Pearls have various symbolic meanings that are unlike other gems. Pearls represent purity, innocence, marital fidelity, an intimate relationship with the moon, frozen tears of God, solitude, triumph over adversity, wisdom, and sensual attraction. The societies and people traditionally famous for pearls were the Roman Empire, Queen Cleopatra of Egypt, Queen Theodora of the Byzantine Empire, Queen Elizabeth I, Queen Marie Antoinette, Empress of Eugenie Napoleon III, and Queen Alexandra. They showed a special affection for pearl necklaces and various wearing patterns unique to the time. Their pearl necklaces became a historic and symbolic legacy. Reestablished through the costume jewelry of cultivated pearls designed by Coco Chanel in the $20^{th}$ century, the pearl necklace has showed a variety of fashion trends in addition to a traditional symbolism of wealth and power. Josephine Baker, Louise Brooks, Marilyn Monroe, Elizabeth Taylor, Jacqueline Kennedy, Queen Elizabeth II, Princess Diana, Michelle Obama and Sarah Jessica Parker have worn notable pearl necklaces and established an individual style that utilizes the adornment of fashionable and stylish pearl necklaces. They have worn pearl necklaces while applying various fashion trend motifs to symbolic pearl features of that have changed the perception of the pearl and themselves.

조선중기 이후 가사(袈裟)의 유형과 변천 (The Types and Transition of Kasaya since the Mid Joseon Dynasty)

  • 강선정;조우현
    • 복식
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    • 제64권2호
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    • pp.17-34
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    • 2014
  • This is a theoretical and empirical study on Kasaya, the Buddhist monk's robe, which is one of the traditional Korean costumes that has kept it original form, as well as it being the most symbolic ritual costume in Buddhism. The purpose of the study is to see the different types of Kasaya, and the transitions it has gone through since Mid Joseon Dynasty. The analysis was performed after categorizing Kasaya in the following manner: layers, the way to wear, symbolism in construction, sewing, etc. Having a variety of Ilwolguangcheop(日月光貼) is a feature of Korean Red Kasaya. In the beginning, Its shape was very similar to shape of Hyungbae(胸背), and this was a royal gift and had the same meaning as an official uniform for a Buddhist monk. So designs of the Cheop(貼) could have been transformed from those of Hyungbae with a Buddhist twist. The conclusion of the study is as follows: Double layered Kasaya shows its transition from double layer to single layer. The fastening ornaments have been simplified in all materials from Yeongja(纓子). The latch type and three-paired Yeongja type transformed into hook type and one-paired Yeongja type. Color is the most common feature above all, and it is mainly in red. The form of Korean Kasaya has a significant relation with development of Buddhism. The integration of the Zen sect would have influenced the integration of Kasaya, which shows diversity throughout the period.

서양 복식사에 나타난 의상장식에 관한 연구 (A Study on the Ornaments in Western Dress History)

  • 이순홍
    • 복식문화연구
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    • 제11권1호
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    • pp.20-46
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    • 2003
  • This study analyzes the garment decorations in the history of western costume based on their kinds and techniques, and consider the beginning and the development of costume decoration. The purpose is to promote a historical understanding of modern ornamentation. Based on the theoretical background concerning the origin and purpose of costume decoration, its symbolism and its relationship with images, this study classified the techniques and kinds of ornament and considered each costumes by their decoration. 1. The ornament was originated from the primitive custom of coloring the skin for the purpose of protecting the body, symbolizing the tribe, indicating the class, and threatening the enemies. As this custom changed into the decoration on the body as a form of tattoos or physical transformations, the practice of ornament seems to begin as a display of one's authority and wealth as well as a human instinct to decorate oneself beautifully. 2. The basic purpose of ornament is to look attractive by decorating oneself with ornaments. Addition of decorative design to the garment tends to complement the practical aspects of the whole clothing, and elevate its value and originality. 3. From the past, ornament has been used as a symbol of wealth and status. Originated from the desire to display one´s authority and power and to receive respect from others, the people's interest in ornament have rising. 4. The kinds and techniques of ornament can be classified into the structural and applied decorations. The former is decorating a part of a garment, such as the neckline, cellar, cuffs, or pockets. The latter includes braids, laces and embroideries. These ornament are diverse in their details and techniques, and should consider both functional aspects of clothing and its decorative functions emphasizing the aesthetic expressions. In the above considerations, we can see that costume ornament was most splendid in the premodern times and it was the simplest in the ancient times. And we also saw the possibility that decorative techniques could be created almost limitlessly.

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알렉산더 맥퀸(Alexander McQueen) 작품에 나타난 죽음의 미학 (A Study on the Aesthetics of death in Alexander McQueen's works)

  • 왕형우;김현주
    • 디지털융복합연구
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    • 제18권5호
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    • pp.455-463
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    • 2020
  • 본 연구자는 선행 연구를 통해 태초부터 전개된 인류의 예술에 내포된 죽음의 미학의 전개 과정을 정리한 바 있다. 본 연구는 해당 연구를 심화시킨 후속 연구로, 알렉산더 맥퀸의 패션 작품에 담긴 죽음의 미학적 의미를 연구하였는데, 먼저 죽음의 미학적 특성을 분류하고, 이를 근거로 알렉산더 맥퀸의 의상 작품에서의 죽음의 미학적 특성을 분석 정리하였다. 본 연구의 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 죽음의 미학적 표현은 죽음의 재현성, 상징성, 및 종교성의 세 가지로 나뉜다. 재현성 표현은 실질적 대상 재현과 상상의 대상 재현을 포함하며. 상징적 표현은 외면적 표현과 내면적 표현 두 가지를 포함한다. 둘째, 알렉산더 맥퀸의 작품에서 죽음의 재현성은 주로 가상의 무대 장면과 복장을 통해 구현하였다. 셋째, 죽음의 상징성은 육체적인 죽음과 직결된 해골, 혈액 등뿐만 아니라 죽음에 따른 다양한 정서와 심리상태도 보여준다. 넷째, 죽음의 종교성은 알렉산더 맥퀸의 작품에서 십자가 등의 모티브로 종교적 내용을 재현한 것으로 표현한 것을 알 수 있었다.

조선시대(朝鮮時代) 유교사상(儒敎思想)과 의예복연구(儀禮服硏究) - 남자(男子) 포(袍)를 중심(中心)으로 - (A study on ceremonial costume and Confucianism is Chosun Dynasty - Focusing on Men's Po -)

  • 이선재
    • 복식
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    • 제16권
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    • pp.221-229
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    • 1991
  • This thesis aims at reviewing the wearing aspect and formation of Chosun ceremonial dresses for meal and finding out the thought reflected by them from the standpoint that dresses themselves should be taken as one of the phenomena in culture. That is men's ceremonial costumes and confucian costumes of the royal family and the gentry family in Chosun is reviewed focused on the formation and the wearing aspect of Po, Which is a kind of them. And in the context of the phase of the times. I also considered the thoughts reflected on the clothes such as confucianism, Ying & Yang Theory, and the symbol and the thoughts of patterns in relation to the clothes. Confucian influence was the main force for the Chosun prohibitions for clothes. The major reasons for the prohibitions for clothes were as follows. First, they reflected confucian Chung myoung chooui(the principle that everything should be where it belongs). That is the prohibitions for clothes were used in the means to maintain feudalistic social order. influenced by social rank system. Second, they reflected confucian ethics in the means to recover social disciplines with the maintenance of traditional customs. This shows well in the restriction of luxurious items in dressing included the prohibitions for clothes. Third, they reflected Chosun's toadysm toward China. With the influx of Chinese style of dressing then government even changed the style of uniforms for public officials into that of Chinese resulting in dual styles of dressing. Ying & Yan Theory greatly affected the colors of Korean clothes and reflected toadysm toward China. too. The theory was embodied by prohibition of such colors for clothes as white, gray, and jade green. I reviewed the twelve patterns on Myunpok, Ten-Longivity patterns and Four-Gracious plants patterns in order to analyze the symbolism and thoughts of patterns for clothes. Nansam, Dopo, and Shimui worn by confucian scholars ensures that those clothes bears confucianism and philosopical factors. As shimui was worn by many people it appears in Chosun scholars' studies and a Chinese book called "Yeki". I reviewed the origin, procession, and ornaments of four ceremonial clothes and tried to find out the confucianism in them. First, In Kwanrei (the coming-of-age ceremony) remained ancestor worship and respect for manners. The clothes for this ceremony granted the rights and responsibilities of and adult to the wearer. The royal Kwanreipok had different dresses for each rank. As Samgapok, the crown prince wore Iksunkwan and Konryongpo for the first ritual, Wonryukwan and Kangsapo for the second, and Myunrukwan and Konpok for the third. The rank of the King's grandson was lower than the crown prince's. This example shows that Chosun people respected manners and thought the basic confucianism "God and people are equal." at the Royal court. Second, as Honreipok(wedding gown), the crown prince wore Myunrukwan and Konpok for Daereipok, Wonyukwan and Kangsapo for Napjing and Tongwoo, and Iksunkwan and Konryongpo for Chekbinui. But common people were allowed to wear an official outfit only for wedding in the means of congratulation on the most important day of their life. Wedding gowns which reflected Ying and Yang Theory emphasized the thought that union of a man and a wife is the most important event in life. Third, Sangrei(funeral) was the last ritual of a human being to send off the deceased. The mourning dresses expressed lamentation of the people left behind. Five-Dress-System for each the relative degree of familarity showed the solemnity and formality, which represented the formality of confucianism and ancestor worship. I reviewed the mourning dresses by dividing them into royal, Yangban's, and commons. They were featured by the fact that there was only one style for every walk of life. It is construed that anyone in mourning can wear the same clothes since he feels the same way regardless of his social rank. Fourth, Chereipok(sacrificial rite dresses) had different styles for each social rank. The King wore Myunpok(Kuryumyun and Kujangpok) were recorded to be worn first in the fourth year of King Taecho's ruling. The crown prince wore Palryumyun and Chiljangpok for sacrificial rite dress which was finally settled when King Sejong was in power. Common people wore Dopo, Shimui for the rite dress in the beginning of the Chosun Era and wore Dopo after Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592. In conclusion, confucianism played the main role in ceremonial dress system of Chosun and that was because it emphasized the ethics of action in life, which was different from other religions. It is true that cause-oriented thoughts and Chung myoung chooui in confucianism drove all ceremonies to extreme manners, discriminating the people who belonged to the lower social rank, and resulting in extremly luxurious life style. However, they also created a unique trend and clothes culture in the Chosun Era. I wish that this thesis provieds important information and direction for furthur studies in the future.

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