Journal of the Korean Society of Costume (복식)

The Korean Society of Costume (한국복식학회)
권호 표지

Representation of the Body in Fashion (II) - Focusing on the Representation of Physicality -

복식에 표현된 몸의 재현성 [II] - 몸의 사실성 변질을 중심으로 -

  • Yim, Eun-Hyuk (Fashion Design Dept. of Samsung Art & Design Institute)
  • 임은혁 (Samsung Art & Design Institute 패션디자인과)
  • Published : 2006.12.29
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the representation of the body in fashion focusing on the representation of physicality. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in representing body in fashion, my study examines subjects from the 14th century European costumes to fashion collections of the 20th century. In fashion, representation of the body is visually analogous to the ideal boily shape and structure, including a realistic presentation of the body as well as reflection of aesthetic ideals. Manipulation of physicality entails the reconstruction of the ideal body image through the clothes that modify physicality into unnatural body. Ruff collar, gigot sleeve, crinoline, bustle, stomacher, and corset were all used to materialize the fictitious curves symbolizing femininity, authority, healthiness, maternity, virginity, socioeconomic status, and fertility. Accentuating specific clothing parts represents emphasizing the symbolism of the correspondent body parts. Consequently, in this phase signifiant is $signifi\'{e}$. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the firm of a dress. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

Keywords

References

  1. 김민자 (2004). 복식미학강의 2, 교문사, p. 14
  2. Laver, James (2002). Costume and Fashion. London: Thames & Hudson, p. 62
  3. Boultwood, Anne & Jerrard, Robert (2000), Ambivalence, and its relation to fashion and the body. Fashion theory, Volume 4, Issue 3, UK: Berg, p.302
  4. Reed, Herbert (1984). 조각이란 무엇인가, 이희숙 (역). 열화당, p. 43
  5. 김수경. 서양복식에 표현된 여성인체의 해석에 관한 고찰. 복식 37호, p. 163
  6. 김민자, 복식미학강의 2, 교문사, p. 13
  7. Rudofsky, Bernard (1974), The Unfashionable Human Body. New York: Anchor books, p. 93
  8. Laver, James (2002), Costume and Fashion. London: Thames & Hudson, p. 62
  9. Flugel, J.C. (1930). The Psychology of clothes. London: Hogarth Press, pp. 46-52
  10. Buxbaum, Gerda(ed.) (1999), Icons of Fashion: The 20th Century. Munich: London: New York: Prestel, p. 122
  11. Boucher, Francois (1987). 20,000 Years of Fashion: The History of Costume and Personal Adornment, New York: Harry N. Abrams, INC., Publishers, p. 255
  12. Koda, Harold (2001), Extreme beauty: The Body Transformed, New York: Metropolitan museum of art, p. 35
  13. Laver, James. Costume and Fashion. London: Thames & Hudson, p. 208
  14. Koda, Harold (2001), Extreme beauty: The Body Transformed, New York: Metropolitan museum of art, p. 42
  15. Husain, Humaira(ed.) (1998). Decades of Beauty. New York: Octopus Publishing Group, p. 178
  16. Koda, Harold (2001), Extreme beauty: The Body Transformed, New York: Metropolitan museum of art, p. 52
  17. Koda, Harold (2001), Extreme beauty: The Body Transformed, New York: Metropolitan museum of art, p. 53
  18. Husain. Humaira(ed.) (1998). Decades of Beauty. New York: Octopus Publishing Group, p. 40
  19. Koda, Harold (2001), Extreme beauty: The Body Transformed, New York: Metropolitan museum of art, p. 53
  20. Boucher, Francois (1987). 20,000 Years of Fashion: The History of Costume and Personal Adornment, New York: Harry N. Abrams, INC., Publishers, p. 227
  21. Laver, James. Costume and Fashion. London: Thames & Hudson, pp. 95-97
  22. Glynn, Prudence (1982), Skin to Skin. New York: Oxford University Press. p, 31
  23. Steele, Valerie (2001), The Corset: A Cultural History. New Haven: Yale University Press. p. 4
  24. Koda, Harold. (2001), Extreme beauty: The Body Transformed, New York: Metropolitan museum of art, p. 72
  25. Koda, Harold. (2001), Extreme beauty: The Body Transformed, New York: Metropolitan museum of art, pp. 73-80
  26. Watson. Linda (1999). Vogue: Twentieth Century Fashion, London: Carlton, p. 12
  27. Brownmiller. Susan (1986). Femininity. New York and London: Simon and Schuster. p. 19
  28. Koda, Harold. (2001), Extreme beauty: The Body Transformed, New York: Metropolitan museum of art, p. 104
  29. Boucher. Francois. (1987). 20,000 Years of Fashion: The History of Costume and Personal Adornment, New York: Harry N. Abrams, INC., Publishers, p. 227
  30. Laver. James. Costume and Fashion. London: Thames & Hudson, p. 98
  31. Laver. James. Costume and Fashion. London: Thames & Hudson, p. 130
  32. Koda, Harold. (2001), Extreme beauty: The Body Transformed, New York: Metropolitan museum of art, p. 113
  33. Martin, Richard & Koda. Harold (1993). Infra-Apparel, New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art. p. 64
  34. Fukai, Akiko et al. (2002), Fashion: A History from the 18th to the 20th Century. Koln: Taschen, p. 152
  35. Fukai, Akiko et al. (2002), Fashion: A History from the 18th to the 20th Century. Koln: Taschen, p. 152
  36. Koda, Harold. (2001), Extreme beauty: The Body Transformed, New York: Metropolitan museum of art, p. 130
  37. Koda, Harold. (2001), Extreme beauty: The Body Transformed, New York: Metropolitan museum of art, p. 16
  38. Laver, James. Costume and Fashion. London: Thames & Hudson, p. 91
  39. Boucher, Francois. (1987). 20,000 Years of Fashion: The History of Costume and Personal Adornment, New York: Harry N. Abrams, INC., Publishers, pp. 227-231
  40. Koda, Harold. (2001), Extreme beauty: The Body Transformed, New York: Metropolitan museum of art, p. 23
  41. Kohler, Carl (1963). A History of Costume. New York: Dover Publications, INC., p. 320
  42. Koda, Harold. (2001), Extreme beauty: The Body Transformed, New York: Metropolitan museum of art, p, 72
  43. Koda, Harold. (2001), Extreme beauty: The Body Transformed, New York: Metropolitan museum of art, p. 73
  44. 김민자. 복식미학강의 2, 교문사, p. 212
  45. Koda, Harold. (2001), Extreme beauty: The Body Transformed, New York: Metropolitan museum of art, p. 155
  46. Koda, Harold. (2001), Extreme beauty: The Body Transformed, New York: Metropolitan museum of art, p. 141
  47. Arnheim, Rudolf (1982). 미술과 시지각. 김춘일(역). 홍성사, p. 548
  48. 최수현 (2003). 복식에 표현된 숭고미에 관한 연구. 서울대학교 대학원 박사학위논문
  49. 김민자. 복식미학강의 2, 교문사, pp. 212-213
  50. Hollander, Anne (1993). Seeing Through Clothes. Berkeley: University of California Press. p. x iii
  51. Koda, Harold. (2001), Extreme beauty: The Body Transformed, New York: Metropolitan museum of art, p. 52
  52. Veblen, T. (1983). The Theory of Leisure Class. 정수용(역), 유한계급론, 동녘
  53. Fukai, Akiko (2005). (Visions of the body 2005) 전시 카탈로그, 서울시립미술관, p. 115
  54. Steele, Valerie. The Corset: A Cultural History. New Haven: Yale University Press. p. 143
  55. Laver, James. Costume and Fashion. London: Thames & Hudson, p. 184
  56. Koda, Harold. (2001), Extreme beauty: The Body Transformed, New York: Metropolitan museum of art, p. 145
  57. Koda, Harold. (2001), Extreme beauty: The Body Transformed, New York: Metropolitan museum of art, p. 141