• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2004.08a
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• pp.285-288
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• 2004

• Proceedings of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association Conference
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• 2005.06a
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• pp.37-40
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• 2005

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.3 s.56
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• pp.503-512
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• 2005

This study is to analyze the social symbolism of the dress described in the traditional Korean folktale focusing on the Chosen Dynasty. As references, An outline of the Korean oral literature: 82 volumes in total and written Korean narrative:7 volumes in total written by Kim Hyen Ryong were selected. As regards method of study, first, the social symbolism of the dress described in the traditional folktale has been extracted: afterwards, those were classified and summarized according to theme of a clothing, hairstyle, and belt, etc. And the social symbolism of the dress has been analyzed based on the theory of symbolism. As a result of the analysis, following conclusion has been obtained. First, political relationship and ideology represented through costumes. Second, old customary clothing behaviour represented. Third, sex and age symbolism were represented through protagonists. Fourth, married or unmarried symbolim represented.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.1
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• pp.43-55
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• 2001

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.1-11
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• 2016

Traditional costumes have evolved while reflecting the social, cultural and psychological values of the era. Costumes gain meaning by being worn that also allows their various symbolic meanings to be derived. Costumes worn in festivals by specific societies and organizations have especially apparent symbolism pertaining to their purpose. Most countries have traditional festivals that embody the country's distinct culture, history and traditions. These festivals are acts of consciousness expressing a special meaning of the community. Costumes represent a glimpse of life and culture during a festival period; in addition, the costume's style, color elements and decorations are expressions of community values and a distinct symbolic mechanism. Totemism (a significant element of these festivals) has been passed down for many generations. The current costumes for Totemism are distinct (compared to normal festival costumes) and embody a more symbolic meaning. This study deduces the exaggerated style, the concealment and disguise of the human body, and the pursuit of pleasure expressed in the Totemism costumes of regional European festivals. The symbolization theories of C. G. Jung and an analysis of Totemism costumes allow an understanding of their existential significance, their role as the medium between consciousness and unconsciousness, their meaning of symbolic transcendental unity, and their meaning of giving consciousness to the mind.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.73-87
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• 2000

The purpose of this thesis is to make clear the symbolism expressed by the gorgeous costume elements in the portraits of Elizabeth 1. After English paintings in 16th century and the Portraits of Elizabeth I being investigated in view of its characteristics, the symbolism in the costume of the portraits was studied in analysis. The flowers, the pearls and the sieve denoting a pure virgin predominantly appeared, snake for discretion and wisdom, phoenix for eternal youth and renewal, pelican for motherhood, and eyes and ears for almightiness and sound judgement as an utmost power was found. The color was mainly of black or white and sometimes of these two mixtures. The white means a purity and black, eternity and the mixture of them signifies a virtue of purity. This thesis may help people understand the gorgeous costume of Elizabeth 1. not as an external extravagance, but as an internal emblem or signs delivering its specific significance.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.879-888
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• 2003

Song is a significant message with organic combination of relics and melody. As such, songs could be an important way to deliver messages in the relics and melodies. Among the several kinds of songs ‘popular song’ is the most common and has the strongest effect on the public. On this purpose, total 700 songs published from 1995 to 2001 popular songs have been researched after extracting 100 songs chronologically in regards of broadcasting times, popularity rankings and records of yearly awards during its production year. These selected popular songs have been collected and studied before sampling the expression of the costume included in the relics. Clothes, hair styling, make-up, shoes & purses, accessaries and body figure, etc. are covered In this study. As the recent symbolism embedded in the relics of popular songs is closely related with our generation background, public preference & dislike and the change of modem costume, it shows the symbolism of costumes evidently again.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.4
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• pp.111-123
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to correctly understand the shaping process of Mongolian women's costumes, which had close connection with Korean costumes. 'Nomadic' factors of Mongol costumes are trousers and jacket, with deel(袍) pleated in the waistline for horse riding, and knee-covering narrow-sleeved long dress for men and women alike for protection against the cold. However, Married women wore bogthag(gogo: ) containing symbols derived from nomadic way of life. 'Foreign' factors are divided into two kinds; foreign culture applied to Mongolian costumes(woven stuff, Koryo style), and transformation in costumes to adjust to the environmental alteration owing to extended territory(pigap(比甲), Jacket and skirt), the last of which served as the chief distinction between nomadic and Y an fashions. 'Religious' factors are unique patterns and colors while retaining their symbolism. Some aspects(mongke tengri or eternal sky) of Shamanism is reflected in avoidance of washing, while positive effect of Lamanism is evidenced in yellow cosmetic applied on the forehead and 16 sky devil dance clothes.dance clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.26
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• pp.251-264
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• 1995

The purpose of this study is to introduce and research the traditional Korean costume collections of Dr. McCune who was born in Pyung-Yang in 1907 and resided until her marriage to George S. McCune in about 1930. Her collections consist of three categories : children's costumes, adults' costumes, access-ories. The characteristics of collections are summorized as follows : 1. Deep wrappings are found at the front part of the top clothing when worn. The front gusset (SUB) has been dramaticaly tilted due to the difference in lengths of the top and bottom parts of the front gusset. 2. Assymetry was one of the principles of decorating Korean costumes. The assymetry were repeated at the GIT and SUB of CHOGORE with patchwork patterns. 3. Primary colors were favored in Korean costume. Hue contrast in color combinations was prefered as well, such as : yellow CHOGORE and purple blue CUFFS, a red SUN pattern matched with green embroidery. 4. Surface patterns were not so popular in Korean costumes, while the most colorful and fabulous patterns were shown through the various embroidery artifacts. Patterns were used as a way of expressing of their desires or longings in Korean costumes. The main themes of the patterns were longevity and happiness. The patterns such as peony, lotus, chrysanthemum, bamboo and bat were implying symbolism at that time. 5. Natural materials were prefered for the garments, Silk and cotton were used as the main materials of the costume collections. Studies of Korean Costume collections owned by international collectors are meaningful to boost the arena of Korean Costumes as well as fill up the vacancy left by lost costume artifacts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.2
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• pp.93-106
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• 2008

Asia Folk Costumes are certainly different from the Western Costumes. This distinction is based upon the effect of environment, technology, and social structure, and especially, which was generated by religion, ideology, and philosophy. The ideas of fundamental ground of this eastern features are religions such as Buddhism, Taoism, and Confucianism. The religion of the East has determined the form of traditional costumes, affecting the costume up to now. This study aims at the investigation of the effect of religion on the formation of East Asia Traditional Costumes around Korea, China, and Japan and its figurative beauty. Study was carried out by chiefly referring to literatures. Eastern Aesthetics was formed by accepting aesthetic concepts, acquired from the idea of Three Religions. Especially, the ideas of non-duality(不二), emptiness(空), five aggregates(五蘊), mind control(心法), derived by Buddhism, and nature theory(自然論) and creationism(創造論) of Taoism, and abstinence theory(節制論) and decorum(禮法) and the principles of Yin and Yang(陰陽) of confucianism have had great effect on the aesthetics of costume. The figurative features of costume, affected by three religions are described by the factors; First, non structural feature, second, the beauty of abstinence and chastity of ample silhouette, third, the feature of natural color and achromatic color, fourth, the figurative feature of costume by the principles of Yin and Yang, and fifth, bright ornaments. The aesthetic values of the East Asia Costume are 'A Beauty of Vacancy', 'A Beauty of Concealment', 'A Beauty of Nature', and 'A Beauty of Symbolism'. As philosophy, culture, and ethnics itself, the religions of Asia have had effect on the overall culture, which is inclusive of social structure, as well as art and aesthetics, and have decided the style of costume.