• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.35
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• pp.45-66
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• 1997

This thesis is a study on the kaftan styles iin Asia. The purpose of he study was to examine the origin o the kaftan concentrating on the history and cultural backgrounds of nomads in he Western Central and North Eastern Asia. Secondly for more thorough study and expla-nation on how these kaftans contributed to East-West trade along the silk road. wall paintings and miniature illuminations along Oasis roads persia and Saracen period were compared, Also real kaftans were compared and analyzed the characteristics of Western (Turkey palestine) Central(Kazakistan Uz-bekistan Tadzhistan Qyrgyztan Turkmenistan) and the North Eastern Asian(Mongol) area. Thirdly an attempt has been made to provide the North Eastern Asian(Mongol) area. Thirdly an attempt has been made to provide the style classifications according to their peculiarities of the various kaftans as well as how kaftan gave important influences on custumes of different religious sects. The kaftan is a long coat-like garment with front openings fastened with long sash having an extra long sleeves which were worn by middle and high class nomadics throughout the West Central and North Eastern Asia This type of kaftans were a basic clothing for nomadics since they were constantly moving fromone to another areas on their horse back riding. They also wore tight trousers with boots. Kaftans seem to be originated from nomads of Steppe around B.C. 800 On B. C 400 west asian areas such as Solokha Kul-oba Kulogan had pictures sculptues on vases showing kaftans of half coat type length with front opening tied with band. Also the materials used were the products of animals such as wool or felt with animal designs showing Scythian nomads. In the North Eastern Asia Hsiung-Nu were active in Kazakha North Altai and Mongol The Clothing and fabrics exfavated near Noin-ula Pazyrik showed many samples of kaftan with trousers with other interment be-longings with a corpse around B.C 300 to A. D 100 when trades along the silk roads were proven by many historians Kaftans excavated in this area wore red front opening silk materials which suggesting settling down of nomads. in he central Asia Dol-gull near Altai mountain area were mainly miners who later had many trades with Persia and Bizantine. After Dol-gull Bezeklik temple Samarkant Kizil cow Budda sculture wall paintings of Astana tomb showed typical kaftan of this re-gion. These were both hip covered length as well as long coat with narrow sleeves. Es-pecially they had different color band fron the main kaftan with grogeously and splendously designed silk. In perusia during A. D 1400 to 1600 minia-ture illumination showed kaftan as a high class symbol more than clothing purpose. They had best quality silk with extra long sleeves draping and had a layers of kaftans one on top of anther as a symbol of wealth These Kaftans with different colors and designs were even more beautiful with their effective combinations and contrast of colors. On the other hand the lower class common people and servants wore simple kaftan with the front part of the kaftan were slipped into the belt in order to be more active and con-venient to work, The real kaftans discovered at Topkapi Saray palace of Turkey from A. D 1300 to 1900 were also compared. These kaftans were very numerous in numbers as well as designs The materials and designs used were also vari-ous such as Chinese to Italian silk. The shaped and pattern itself were not much different from the previous nomad's Kaftans. The Palestian kaftans remained were from the beginning of 19th and 20th century. Since this area is hot and dry desert they used black and navy blue colors mostly in order to exclude the sun lights. The patterns used were similar to Nomads and Bedouin with cross stiches and patch work decorations. In the central Asia they had similar life style and natural environmental cnditions with Turkish tribe which resulted in similar kaftan styles as nomads. Mongols conserved basic patterns of kaftan since Cinggis Khan with deep folding in order to keep warm. At last the kaftans studided in this thesis were classified in to four such as half coat long coat jacket and vest style. A pattern used in the Central Asia were zigzag and ani-mal design whereas in the West Asia were floral plant arabesk and circle pattern. As I discussed previously kaftan styles of nomads in the Asia maintained its basic pat-tern throughout the history except slight changes in color gusset sleeve shapes. These slight changes were made according to the need to adapt the need of environmental natu-ral conditions, The reason for aboriginality of kaftan in Asia was its simplicity and con-venience Most interesting fact is that for all these years Mongols are still wearing kaftan in their life ensuring us that they art the preserves of old kaftan. Since this thesis dealt enormous Asian regions I had a limitation of not being able to cover the Far Esatern asian areas such as Korea China and Japan how these kaftans were influenced in their clothing history as well as Eastern and Western culture. This topic along with the studies on materials and designs of patterns of kaftan will be another research project in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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• v.36 no.5
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• pp.82-93
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• 2008

This research focused on the process in which 'the same scenery' is recognized and represented as 'a different landscape' to determine the symbols and meaning of the scenery and landscape included in real-scenery landscape paintings of the 18th-19th centuries. As a result of analyzing the visual points, the content and expressions of 25 real-scenery landscape paintings of Chong Seok Jeong(叢石亭), it can be seen that the transmission of a kind of semiotic landscape on the basis of a specific symbol was accomplished naturally through imitation and representation for the purpose of the expression of Chong Seok Jeong-like idealized scenery. This shows that the unique images of Chong Seok Jeong have long been passed down after taking root as a unique benchmark The meaningful symbol of 'a strange Saseonbong(四仙峰)', which is broken by the spray after rising high, and 'a pine forest' have both been transmitted as being in the manner of Chong Seok Jeong. This has been equipped with the stereo-type scene by being a collective symbolization as the psycho-scenes in memory element of Chong Seok Jeong. Through the pictures of both Gyeomjae(謙齋) and Danweon(檀園), the process by which a specific painter's pictures become acculturated is highly interesting. The scenery expressed in these pictures was clearly that of a landscape of which its particularly emotions and remembrances were repainted through the experience of several places and original sketches. This can be explained as the concept in which the image from 'a specific scenery' gained through actual experience, that is, a personal feeling, has been expressed. The picture that was expressed as a different figure even at the same visual point for the same scenery is the result that was redefined through the scenery subject's recognition. Also, the modification of the scenery object can be colorful through meditation and Sachu(邪推: guessing with wicked doubt). The scenery recognized newly through adoption, omission and emphasis, it is 'the specific scenery' in the heart and is a figure having been more similar to 'a landscape' if the objective life reproduction before being acculturated is a figure similar to the scenery. So, the concept looks like being very persuasive that 'the nature with objectivity captured sensuously' simply is the scenery, and that 'the subjective phenomenon having acquired the cultural nature by being introspected in the method of aesthetic nostalgia is a landscape'.

• Archives of design research
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• v.18 no.1 s.59
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• pp.167-174
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• 2005

This study is to objectively support the emotional and intuitional decision making of the designer by means of developing the supporting models and tools of color coordination. Based on the color grouping system and representative vocabularies suggested in the precedent 'Study on the Grouping System of Fabric Color,' this study suggested the manufacture of the supporting model of color coordination that could be used practically through the design of coloring group. The results of this study can be summarized as below. Firstly, 687 colors in total have been collected from the four world famous collections, the street fashion of 2002 F/W 2003 S/S Season and the representative brands in each group for five years from 1999 to 2003 in order to single out the basic colors for the purpose of composing the color groups. Secondly, 687 collected colors have been grouped into 144 colors in total through the three-step process for the extraction of coloring groups. Thirdly, the final extracted colors have been divided into , , , group by the grouping system specified in the precedent study and the said four large groups have been again subdivided into 12 small groups. Fourthly, the suggested colors in each group have established a color coordination system by introducing the concept of the crossover coordination that could be matched with other groups as well as the coordination within the group. Fifthly, we have dyed 144 colors in total that have consisted of the coloring system of four representative groups (twelve subgroups) in each methodical tone as in the above in cotton yarn, one of the representative materials in fabric fashion design industry. Besides, we have specified the symbol of the Pantone Color Book and CMYK values in each color that has consisted of the system considering the industrial characteristics of fashion as a global business and the compatibility with the related design industry. Sixthly, we have packed the completed yam made of fabrics in the designed container for the easy use of cross-coordination and have completed a color coordination system that could be easily utilized for the fashion-related working-level staffs.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.46 no.2
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• pp.46-69
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• 2013

The results of study on the meaning landscape and environmental design techniques of the Byulup, Yoohoedang garden(Hageowon) based on the story in the collection of Kwon Yi-jin (Yoohoedangjip, 有懷堂集), are as below. First, Yoohoedang Kwon Yi-jin (有懷堂 權以鎭 : 1668~1734) constructed a Byulup garden consisting of ancestor grave, Byulup, garden, and a school, through 3 steps for 20 years in the back hill area of Moosoo-dong village, south of Mountain Bomun in Daejeon. In other words, he built the Byulup(別業, Yoohoedang) by placing his father's grave in the back hill of the village, and then constructed Yoegeongam(餘慶菴) and Geoupjae(居業齋) for protection of the pond(Napoji, 納汚池), garden(Banhwanwon, 盤桓園), and ancestor graves, and descendants' studying in the middle stage. He built an extension in Yoohoedang and finally completed the large-size garden (Hageowon) by extending the east area. Second, in terms of geomancy sense, Yoohoedang Byulup located in Moosoo-dong village area is the representative example including all space elements such as main living house (the head family house of Andong Kwon family), Byulup (Yoohoedang), ancestor graves, Hagoewon (garden) and Yoegeongam (cemetery management and school) which byulup type Byulseo should be equipped with. Thirdly, there are various meaning landscape elements combining the value system of Confucianism, Buddhism and Taoism value, including; (1) remembering parents, (2) harmonious family, (3) integrity, (4) virtue, (5) noble personality, (6) good luck, (7) hermit life, (8) family prosperity and learning development, (9) grace from ancestors, (10) fairyland, (11) guarding ancestor graves, and (12) living ever-young. Fourth, after he arranged ancestor graveyard in the back of the village, he used surrounding natural landscapes to construct Hagoewon garden with water garden consisting of 4 mountain streams and 3 ponds for 13 years, and finally completed a beautiful fairyland with 5 platforms, 3 bamboo forests, as well as the Seokgasan(石假山, artificial hill). Fifth, he adopted landscape plantation (28 kinds; pine, maple, royal azalea, azalea, persimmon tree, bamboo, willow, pomegranate tree, rose, chinensis, chaenomeles speciosa, Japanese azalea, peach tree, lotus, chrysanthemum, peony, and Paeonia suffruticosa, etc.) to apply romance from poetic affection, symbol and ideal from personification, as well as plantation plan considering seasonal landscapes. Landscape rocks were used by intact use of natural rocks, connecting with water elements, garden ornament method using Seokyeonji and flower steps, and mountain Seokga method showing the essence of landscape meanings. In addition, waterscape are characterized by active use of water considering natural streams and physio-graphic condition (eastern valley), ecological corridor role that rhythmically connects each space of the garden and waterways following routes, landscape meaning introduction connecting 'gaining knowledge by the study of things' values including Hwalsoodam(活水潭, pond), Mongjeong(蒙井, spring), Hosoo(濠水, stream), and Boksoo(?水, stream), and sensuous experience space construction with auditory and visualization using properties of landscape matters.

• Cartoon and Animation Studies
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• s.50
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• pp.349-382
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• 2018

China is a great civilization which is a combination of various ethnic groups with long history change. As one of these important components of traditional culture, the lucky shape has been going through the ideological upheaval of the history change of China. Up to now, it has become the important parts which can stimulate the emotion of Chinese nation. The lucky shape becomes the basis of the rich traditional culture by long history of the Chinese nation. Even say it is the centre of this traditional culture resource. The lucky shape is a way of expressing the Chinese history and national emotions. It is the important part of people's living habits, emotion, as well as the cultural background. What's more, it has the value of beliefs of Surname totem. Meanwhile, it also has the function of passing on information. The symbol of information finally was created by the being of lucky shape to indicate its conceptual content. There are various kinds of lucky shapes. It will have its limitations when researching all kinds of them professionally. So, here the lucky shape of FISH will be researched. The shape of fish is the first good shape created by the Chinese nation. It is about 6000 years. Its special shape and lucky meaning embody the peculiar inherent culture and intension of the Chinese nation. It's the important component of the Chinese traditional culture. The traditional shape of fish was focused on the continuation of history and the patterns recognition, etc. It seldom indicated the meaning of the shape into the using of the modern design. So by searching the lucky meaning & the way of fish shape, the purpose of the search is to explore the real analysis of value of the fish shape in the modern enterprise identity design. The way of search is through the development of the history, the evolvement and the meaning of lucky of the traditional fish shape to analyse the symbolic meaning and the cultural meaning from all levels in nation, culture, art and life, etc. And by using the huge living example of the enterprise identity design of the traditional shape of the fish to analyse that how it works in positive way by those enterprise which is based on the trust with good image. In the modern Chinese enterprise identity design, the lucky image will be reinterpreted in the modern way. It will be proofed by the national perceptual knowledge of the consumer and the way of enlarge the goodwill of corporate image. It will be the conclusion. The traditional fish shape is the important core of modern design.So this search is taken through the instance of the design of enterprise image of the traditional fish shape to analysis the idea of the majority Chinese people of the traditional luck and the influence of corporation which based on trust and credibility. In modern image design of Chinese corporation, the auspicious sign reappear. The question survey is taken by people through the perceptual knowledge of the consumer and the cognition the enterprise image. According the result, people can speculate the improvement of consumer's recognition and the possibility of development of traditional concept.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Traditional Landscape Architecture
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.76-89
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• 2012

This study aimed at carrying out a semantic interpretation of the core Design language that seemed to influence deeply in the creation of the ChwuiseokJeong wonlim of Gochang. Especially, this paper aimed at inferring how the spiritual culture of seclusion of the 16th century influenced the creation of the wonlim by understanding the metaphor and symbolism by grasping the transmission meaning and reception meaning of the creators and the people concerned with keywords like Eunil(隱逸: seclusion), Chwuiseok(醉石), and Chilseongam(七星巖). 'Building up a wall' was intentionally carried out in order to represent 'Seven Stars(The Big Dipper)' inside of the wonlim. This is a kind of two-dimensional 'enframement', and a result of active creation of a meaningful landscape. From Chilseongam that was created by assembling, we presumed that Kyung-Hee Kim, Nohgye(蘆溪), the creator showed the recognition and thoughts of astronomy as a Confucian scholar that the ChwuiseokJeong Wonlim where he secluded is the center of the universe. The interpretation of words in Nohgyezip, an anthology, showed that the articles and writtings of Nohgye, his decsendants, and the people of ChwuiseokJeong included alcohols, Chwuiseok, Yeon-Myung Do, and Yuli(栗里) where Do secluded; this means that Nohgye ranked himself with Do because Nohgye also lived in peace by drinking alcohols and enjoying nature like Do did. 'Drinking' was what expressed the mind of Nohgye who wanted to be free and have the joy of enjoying mountains, water, and their landscape like Do did. In other words, 'Drinking' is the symbol of freedom that makes him forget himself and equate himself with nature. These are the representation, imitation, and mimesis of respecting Yeon-Myung Do. As the alegory of 'speaking something with other things' suggested, it is possible to read 'Chwuiseok', came from the story of Yeon-Myung Do, in multiple ways; it superficially points out 'a rock on which he laid when he was drinking', but it also can be interpreted as 'an object' that made him forget his personal troubles. In addition, it means freewill protecting unselfish mind with the spiritual aberration of drinking, 'Chwui(醉)', mentally; also, it can be interpreted metaphorically and broadly as a tool that makes Nohgye reach to the state of nature by the satisfied mind of Yeon-Myung Do. 'Chwuiseok' was a design language that showed the situation of Nohgye by comparing his mind with the mind of Yeon-Myung Do from the Confucian point of view, and a kind of behavioral mimesis based on his respect to Do and 'aesthetic representation of objective reality.' It is not coincidental that this mimesis was shown in the engraved words on Chwuiseok and the creation of ChwuiseokJeong that has the same name with Chwuiseok in Korea and China.

• 지역과문화
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.79-105
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• 2019

In the Geumseongsan Tumulus of the Uiseong area where the Jomunguk was existed in the Three Han Period, many relics such as metal craft ornaments and Uiseong-style earthernware were excavated. However, it is hard to find cases where the excavated relics were used to develop cultural products. In this study, symbolic relics which can express the culture of Uiseong Jomunguk were selected from excavated relics. Then, the basic design that can be applied to various cultural products were derived from symbolic relics. In order to select symbolic relics, the formative characteristics of the metal craft relics excavated from the Tablili Tumulus and the Dali Tumulus were examined. As a result, a gilt-bronze crown excavated from the Tablili Tumulus was selected as a symbolic relics. And then the basic desin was derived from the gilt-bronze crown. The basic design is expressed in the form of birds based on the bird's feather shape at the edge of the standing ornaments and the record of the Bongdae(鳳臺), the phoenix's habitat. And the application design that changed the expression of the birds' face was presented. The earthenware excavated from the Uiseong area was designed as a soil pot and applied various indoor air purification plants. The result of this study, which reinterprets and reconstructs the historical and cultural resources of the region in accordance with the modern sense, can be used as useful data for the development of cultural products of Jomunguk. Furthermore, if the design derived from the Jomunguk relics is used as a representative symbol of the area, it will be possible to derive an image of a differentiated region from other regions. Finally, it is expected that the result of this study will be a chance to re-evaluate the value of the historical and cultural resources in the region.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.71-75
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• 1998

The Miaos who is the minority people mainly living in the southwestern part of China, expressed their indicator and solidarity through the costume in order to maintain their racial character while experiencing numerous adversities over thousands of years, where the costume has served as a source of cohesion as well as a primitive religious thought, and also showed their faith, desire, longing and aspiration. This study examined the Miao's traditional costume by classifying it into the following; hair style, headdress, upper and lower garments, and other costume. And the silver ornaments used for attire and their symbolic meaning were examined. The result of the study is summarized as follows. 1. The reason that types of the costume has been diversified is because there was promise of ancestors who intended to differently express the type of a kind as symbol of the racial branch that is the Miao's special type of society. Thus, the costume type could tell where a tribe live. Another reason is because only marriage between families with different surname but the same type of costume was accepted. 2. As women made and wore the costume themselves, it also served as a means of being proud of their skill or wealth, they tried to make it more beautiful and it was also used as a token of marriage or love between relatively enlightened men and women. 3. The design used on the costume was expressed as a symbolic meaning of indicator to strengthen the racial solidarity because it connoted worship to ancestors who had experienced lots of adversities. 4. The hair style was expressed in various styles by using Kache such as Chukye, Byunbal and Kokye. It is likely that ornaments used on the head of women in the form of cow's horn or silver crown were used as one of the methods to stress the valuableness of the cattle that were essential to agricultural life. In addition, various styles of turbans were used to indicate the respective regions. 5. Cock's feather ornaments or silver ornaments in the form of pheasant's feather on the edge of women's skirts, peasant's feathers that men wore on their head, or Baekjoui and men wore resulted from the Miaos' thought of adoration for birds, which implied a primitive religious meaning. 6. As the region where the Miaos live yields much silver, the silver ornaments were mostly used to be proud of wealth, which symbolized light and pureness.

• Korean Journal of Biological Psychiatry
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.176-188
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• 1999

Objective : The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effects of alcohol on neurocognitive function, psychomotor performance and subjective response in healthy Korean adults with different ALDH2 genotypes. Method : A total of 24 males, half with active $ALDH2^*1/2^*1$ and the other with inactive $ALDH2^*1/2^*2$, was selected through genotyping using restriction fragment length polymorphism. In a double-blind, placebo-controlled cross-over design, each subject consumed 0.5g/kg dose of alcohol, given as a mixture of 40% vodka and orange juice, and placebo(orange juice) on two separate occasions on an average of weekly intervals. The blood alcohol concentrations(BACs) were measured using a breath analyzer at baseline and at 30, 60 minutes after drinking. P300s were measured at baseline and at 30 minutes after alcohol and placebo intake. Vital signs and psychomotor performance[Critical Flicker Fusion Threshold(CFFT), Choice Reaction Time (CRT), Digit Symbol Substitution(DSS)] were measured at baseline and at 60 minutes after alcohol and placebo intake. Subjective responses were measured at the end of the study. The statistical analysis focused on whether there were any differences between groups with different ALDH2 genotypes. Results : The major results are as follows. 1) BACs in the inactive group were overall equivalent to those in the active group. Only in terms of time, BACs were significantly higher overall at 30 minutes than at 60 minutes after alcohol intake. 2) Pulse rates were significantly increased after alcohol intake compared with placebo, and the increase was greater in the inactive than in the active group. 3) P300 latencies in leads Fz(frontal), Cz(cental) and Pz(parietal) were significantly increased after alcohol intake compared to placebo, and the increase was greater in the inactive than in the active group. P300 amplitudes in leads Cz and Pz were significantly decreased overall after alcohol intake compared to placebo. 4) Compared with placebo, alcohol produced significant effect on the psychomotor performance : impairment in the inactive group, improvement in the active group. 5) Compared with placebo, alcohol significantly induced a negative or an intense effect on the subjective responses in the inactive group, but little negative and even a somewhat positive effect in the active group. Conclusions : These results suggest that ALDH isozyme variance might be an important factor to determine the effects of acute dose of alcohol on the various psychobehavioural functions and also to determine the alcohol use pattern and to predict the future development of alcohol overuse and/or abuse.

• 대한공업교육학회지
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.105-120
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• 2015

The purpose of this study was to extract of Sub-elements of technological communication skills and to construct of a system model. In order to achieve the goal of the study, it was carried out in two steps: (1)Extraction sub-elements and definitions of technological communication skills, (2)Development of a system model of technological communication skills. Obtained conclusions by the process of this research were as follows. First, sub-elements of the technological communication skills were extracted and they were images, sketches, flowcharts, drawings, prototyping, symbols tables graphs and presentations. Second, using the 'technological communication tools' based on the "collaborative activities in online and offline', technological communication skills were defined as communication skills to be raised through the process of 'Idea through the Communication', 'Realization through the Communication', 'Wrap up through the Communication'. Third, technological communication skills were described as the system, in which 'Idea through the Communication(images, sketches, flowcharts)', 'Realization through the Communication(design, prototyping)', 'Wrap up through the Communication(symbol table graph, presentation)' were collaboratively activated. Fourth, checking tool for the technological communication skills was developed, based on checking tool for the existing communication skills and system model for technological communication skills. And it was improved by the expert validity test.