• Title/Summary/Keyword: swells

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On the Feasibility of Freak Waves Formation within the Harbor Due to the Presence of Infra-Gravity Waves of Bound Mode Underlying the Ever-Present Swells (Bound Mode의 외중력파에 의한 항내 이상파 생성가능성에 대하여)

  • Cho, Yong Jun;Bae, Jung Hyun
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.31 no.1
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    • pp.17-27
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    • 2019
  • We carry out the numerical simulation to test a hypothesis that freak waves can be triggered by the infragravity waves of bound mode underlying the ever-present swells and its constructive interaction with swells using the Tool Box called the ihFoam that has its roots on the OpenFoam, and Bi-spectrum. Numerical simulation is implemented for the SamChcuk LNG Plant where freak waves have been reported in front of the private wharf during its construction phase due to the uncompleted northern breakwater. Infra-gravity waves of bound mode is generated using the difference wave-wave interaction between the local wind waves of 7 s and a swell of 11.4 s based on the Bi-spectrum. For the sake of comparison, numerical simulation for infra-gravity waves of free mode is also carried out. Numerical results show that stem waves along the private wharf for SamChcuk LNG Plant can be triggered by the infra-gravity waves of bound mode coming from the north, which eventually leads to freak waves when encounters the reflected waves from the south jetty.

A Study on the Predictability of Eastern Winter Storm Waves Using Operational Wind Forecasts of KMA (기상청 현업 예보 바람자료를 이용한 동해안 동계 파랑 예측 재현도 연구)

  • Do, Kideok;Kim, Jinah
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.30 no.5
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    • pp.223-233
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    • 2018
  • The predictability of winter storm waves using KMA's operational wind forecasts has been studied to predict wind waves and swells in the East coast of Korea using SWAN. The nested model were employed along the East coast of Korea to simulate the wave transformation in the coastal area and wave dissipation term of whitecapping is optimized to improve swell prediction accuracy. In this study, KMA's operational meteorological models (RDAPS and LDAPS) are used as input wind fields. In order to evaluate model accuracy, we also simulate wind waves and swells using ECMWF reanalysis and KIOST WRF wind and they are compared with the KMA's operational wave model and the wave measurement data on the offshore and onshore stations. As a result, it has the lowest RMSE and the highest correlation coefficient in the onshore when the input wind fields are KMA's operational meteorological forecasts. In the offshore, all of the simulate results shows good agreements with similar error statistics. It means that it is very feasible to use SWAN model with the modified whitecapping factor and KMA's operational meteorological forecasts for predicting the wind waves and swells in the East coast of Korea.

Backshore Erosion due to High Swell Waves (너울성고파랑에 기인한 후빈 배후 침식)

  • Kim, Kyu Han;Shim, Kyu Tae
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.24 no.5
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    • pp.366-371
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    • 2012
  • High swell has been known for the one of the main causes of beach erosion in the east coast of Korea. In this study, coastal topography changes due to high swells are simulated to find its effect on the backshore by using movable bed experiments and numerical experiments. Sea bottom topographical changes due to various incident waves were investigated using CSHORE model in the numerical experiments. Furthermore, the mechanism and the phenomena of beach erosion due to waves and high swells on the foreshore and backshore were analyzed and compared with movable bed hydraulic experiments.

Wavelet Analysis of Swells in the East Sea (동해 너울에 대한 웨이블릿 분석)

  • Kim, Tae-Rim;Lee, Dong-Young
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.20 no.6
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    • pp.583-588
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    • 2008
  • Swell data observed in the East Sea in February, 2008 were analyzed using wavelet method. The wavelet analyzed results show detailed time series variation of wave group, peak frequency and spectrum. The comparison of time averaged wavelet spectrum with fourier spectrum turn out to be very similar in terms of spectrum shape and peak frequency evolution but the peak frequency wave energy and the significant wave height show discrepancies. Wavelet analysis can detect the change of spectrum in time as well as in frequency and very efficient to study transient and irregular phenomena such as freak waves and abnormal swells in the ocean. More analysis with more wave data are needed for future application.

Numerical Analysis of the Hydraulic Characteristics of a Boundary Layer Streaming over Beach Cusps Surf-Zone Using LES and One Equation Dynamic Smagorinsky Turbulence Model (LES와 One Equation Dynamic Smagorinsky 난류모형을 이용한 Beach Cusps 쇄파역에서의 경계층 Streaming 수치해석)

  • Cho, Yong Jun
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.32 no.1
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    • pp.55-68
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    • 2020
  • In order to investigate the hydraulic characteristics of a boundary layer streaming over the beach cusps appeared in swells prevailing mild seas, we numerically simulated the shoaling process of Edge waves over the beach cusp. Synchronous Edge waves known to sustain the beach cusps could successfully be duplicated by generating two obliquely colliding Edge waves in front of beach cusps. The amplitude AB and length LB of Beach Cusp were elected to be 1.25 m and 18 m, respectively based on the measured data along the Mang-Bang beach. Numerical results show that boundary layer streaming was formed at every phase of shoaling process without exception, and the maximum boundary layer streaming was observed to occur at the crest of sand bar. In RUN 1 where the shortest waves were deployed, the maximum boundary layer streaming was observed to be around 0.32 m/s, which far exceeds the amplitude of free stream by two times. It is also noted that the maximum boundary layer streaming mentioned above greatly differs from the analytical solution by Longuet-Higgins (1957) based on wave Reynolds stress. In doing so, we also identify the recovery procedure of natural beaches in swells prevailing mild seas, which can be summarized such as: as the infra-gravity waves formed in swells by the resonance wave-wave interaction arrives near the breaking line, the sediments ascending near the free surface by the Phase II waves orbital motion were carried toward the pinnacle of foreshore by the shoreward flow commenced at the steep front of breaking waves, and were deposited near the pinnacle of foreshore due to the infiltration.

Injectable Hydrogel as an Artificial Nucleus Pulposus in a Degenerative Intervertebral Disc (Injectable Hydrogel을 이용한 인공 Nucleus Pulposus의 제조)

  • Park, Jin-Hyun
    • Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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    • 2002.04a
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    • pp.13-16
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    • 2002
  • The Intervertebral disc is a composite structure made up of the nucleus pulposus (NP) core surrounded by the multi-layered fibers of the annulus fibrosis (AF)[1]. Water is drawn into the NP by the presence of hydrophilic proteins called proteoglycans [2]. The AF, with successive layers oriented in alternating directions, surrounds the NP. These layers are placed under tension as the NP absorbs water and swells [3]. (omitted)

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A Study of Pourer Quality Disturbance Compensation using dq Transformation (dq 좌표변환을 이용한 전력외란 보상 연구)

  • Lee, Kyo-Sung;Lee, Yong-Jae;Kim, Do-Hun;Kim, Yang-Mo
    • Proceedings of the KIEE Conference
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    • 2002.11c
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    • pp.286-289
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    • 2002
  • In this paper, we use the PI dual control using do transformation(dq stationary frame and dq synchronous rotating frame) for series voltage sag and swell compensation algorithm. Analysis, simulation results are presented for voltage sags and swells on a three-phase unbalanced voltage source.

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Runup and Reflection of Waves on Impermeable Slopes of Coastal Structures (불투수성 경사면에서 파의 처오름과 반사)

  • Lee, Cheol-Eung
    • Journal of Industrial Technology
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    • v.21 no.B
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    • pp.175-185
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    • 2001
  • A numerical model is represented to calculate the reflected waves, the runup of waves and the wave induced velocities on impermeable slopes for the normally incident wave trains of nonlinear monochromatic wave and solitary wave. The finite amplitude shallow water equations with the effects of bottom friction are solved numerically in time domain using an explicit dissipative Lax-Wendroff finite difference method. The numerical model is verified by comparisons with the other numerical results, the measured data and asymptotic results. It is found that the uprushing and downrushing of incident waves may be accurately predicted by the present numerical model. Therefore, the present numerical model can be applicable to swells as well as long waves.

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Controller Design for Dynamic Voltage Restorers by use of PQR Power Theory I - Reference Wave Generation (PQR 순시전력이론에 의한 Dynamic Voltage Restorer의 제어기 설계 I -기준전압 파형의 발생)

  • Kim H.S.;Lee S.J.;Sul S.K.
    • Proceedings of the KIPE Conference
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    • 2003.07a
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    • pp.398-403
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    • 2003
  • Dynamic Voltage Restorers (DVR)s are known as the best effective and economic means to compensate for voltage sags and swells [1]-[11]. This paper proposes a novel method to generate reference voltages synchronized with the grid whether the line voltages are distorted by a fault or not. The proposed reference wave generator (RWC) looks for the original wave forms from the corrupted line voltages and synthesizes the expected positive sequence reference waves for DVRs. There is no transient problem on the generated reference waves when the line voltages are distorted by the fault.

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A COMPUTATIONAL MODEL FOR OSMOSIS PHENOMENA OF CELLS THROUGH SEMI-PERMEABLE MEMBRANES

  • Kim, Im-Bunm;Ha, Tae-Young;Sheen, Dong-Woo
    • Journal of the Korean Society for Industrial and Applied Mathematics
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    • v.13 no.2
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    • pp.123-140
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    • 2009
  • The effect of a solute concentration difference on the osmotic transport of water through the semi-permeable membrane of a simple cell model is investigated. So far, most studies on osmotic phenomena are described by simple diffusion-type equations ignoring all fluid motion or described by Stokes flow. In our work, as the governing equations, we consider the coupled full Navier-Stokes equations which describe the fluid motion and the full transport equation that takes into account of convection and diffusion effects. A two dimensional finite difference model has been developed to simulate the velocity field, concentration field, and semi-permeable membrane movement. It is shown that the cell swells to regions of lower solute concentration due to the uneven water flux through the semi-permeable membrane. The simulation is applied on a red blood cell geometry and the relevant results are presented.

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