• 복식
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• 제59권5호
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• pp.41-52
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• 2009

In contemporary art, soft materials are used in various forms and ways as a medium expressing contingency beyond a simple nature of materials. In the late 1960's, the appearance of soft sculpture as a refusal of the stereotyped 'Erection' characteristic of traditional sculpture served as an opportunity for more attention to soft materials. Fashion is the reflection of age, and the mirror of society, culture and arts. In other words, soft sculpture and fashion are artistic behaviors in the same context, which have neither been fixed nor erected. This study finds its significance in analyzing correlation between soft sculpture and fashion, and the importance of contingency as artistic expression means in this age when boundaries between genres are obscure, and artistic values are given to fashion. By doing so, it aims to present the direction toward which fashion should face in the future, establishing a new aesthetic consciousness with which more creative and various expressions are available in fashion as well. This study presented as its theoretical background the concept of soft sculpture affected by Marcel Duchamp among representative examples of the contingency that started to appear in art starting in the early 20th century. It also analyzed the soft sculpture appeared in 1960s and the expression methods and features of contingency appeared in fashion after late 1990s through a new approach of piling up, hanging up, and tying, three categories classified by Maurice $Fr{\acute{e}}churet$. Common features of the contingency expressed in soft sculpture and fashion were derived in the analysis, which are intensive effects of energy, values given to physical properties themselves, and esthetics of anti-form.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제42권2호
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• pp.251-268
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• 2018

This study suggests a fashion design using aesthetic characteristics of works by Kate MccGwire, a modern sculptor paying attention to soft sculpture materials such as feathers. In this research on MccGwire works, their internal meanings may be derived as the dualism of familiarity, movement and consciousness. Works also have aesthetic characteristics of overlapping, fluidity and twist. Using such characteristics, 4 one piece dresses and 2 vest dresses were made. Research findings are as follows. First, aesthetic characteristics of MccGwire works could be expanded into expressive areas of silhouettes and details in fashion. Second, visual flow and concentration could be expressed by gradual coloration of feather colors. Third, dart manipulation could be applied naturally by details and curve silhouettes of fashion design. Fourth, touch of feather material could be expressed fully by leaving the edge of garments raw. Fifth, spatiality of fashion could be implemented partially by applying decorative saddle stitching to costume design details. This study explored a potential of soft sculpture occurred during a transitional process of objet pursued by 20th century's avant-garde artists applicable to fashion design ideas that suggested methods for contemporary creative design.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제5권5호
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• pp.65-76
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• 2001

The hat is the most flexible human head covering. Almost entirely enveloping the hair, it can be simple, pure, elegant and mysterious. Yet it is frequently a highly decorative form of dress. The hat also takes a part in the extension of the area of art as soft-sculpture. My purpose of this thesis is to present diverse artistic hats with natural images by nontraditional materials and natural resources. The reason why I select nature as them is that it is absolutely the origin of life and art. To develop the innovative hat design, I focus on the material to extend the range of art expression. I observe nontraditional materials such as wire, paper and so on that enhance heterogenetic feeling from natural images. The attempt is made to enhance the visual effect by harmonizing the disharmonious feeling. Natural resources such as moss, orange, feather and so on could be adapted to the hat and applied for unique design, which supplies new expression. Therefore, the harmony of natural images and natural resources could avoid dullness, bestow elegance and polish the unique beauty creation of the hat.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.1193-1204
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• 2011

As designs that simulate man's five wits are important, all five senses used are complex. Tactil value by Bernard Berenson means that the object in fine art makes the spectator feel like his or her finger is touching something, although the spectator is distant from the art piece. Especially as costumes have a relationship with the flexible skin and moving body, tactile modality and tactile value is more important. In order to analyze how Madeleine Vionnet realized a new femininity through the application of the principal of tactile value to dress design and in order to define tactile value in the field of fashion, this study examines the theory of tactile value, sculpture, painting, contemporary art, and product design as well as the design of Madeleine Vionnet from 1925 to 1937 because she was in the fashion business enlarging dress shops in New york during this period. The shape of Madeleine Vionnet's dresses made the concealed body alive through organic curves pressed against the body from cuts and dissections based on the anatomy of a supple body with curves and movement. In the garments, soft physical characteristics or the glossy touch of silk or pile textile imitated smooth skin while colors similar to a woman's eye, hair, and skin color continue the impression of the dress extending to the body through these design elements, Madeleine Vionnet's dresses reinforce the will to touch female body hidden under the dress by tactile values, not by the body's modification or visual exposure.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제13권3호
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• pp.69-80
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• 2000

Body has been high-lightened as one of the most important theme since the philosophy and the arts are focused on it in the late 20 century. Resurgence of interests in human body has been based on the skepticism on rapid digitalization and do-materialization currently undergoing in electronic media environments. Artists have been endeavoring more and more to find a synthesis which links the conceptual and the sensuous in their works as digitalization gets faster and faster. The Bodily-oriented art uses its visceral qualities, either literally or metaphorically, to engage our total being, not just our mental consciousness, in building a sensuous, evocative statement. Its transcendent ideas are inter- mixed with the fabric of the world. We are touched by this art not only because we understand it cognitively, but because we "feel"it. These characteristics of textile arts caused gradual increase of soft-sculpture works using textiles and implies possibilities of inter-grade of physical and mental world. Ann Hamilton, Magdalena Abakanowiz, Folly Apfelbaum and Pallid Dougherty are, for example, related to the fiber arts. It would be of worth to study the characteristics of contemporary faber-art works, especially done by Abakanowiz who has been regarded as a dominant pioneer in the contemporary fiber arts from the viewpoint of inter-grade of the physicals and the mental. This paper, therefore, deals with the Abaknowiz′works in the context of human body and body-signs. Life and works might be classified into 5 stages; first, learning period since her birth in 1930, second, creation period of Abakan, third, remodelling period of Abakan, fourth, composition and dissolution period of Abakan and the last and fifth, new transformation period of Abakan. ′Abakan′through her whole life as an artist has been a plastic language and based ultimately on external human body but in various materials and forms.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.163-180
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• 2019

A pattern is a symbolic mark of the psychological expression and ornamental desire of the human interior. In particular, plant patterns, from ancient times to modern times, express beauty across both the east and the west. The Joseon dynasty had a strong national will, and it was a time when the symbolism of Korea was established. Plant patterns were decorative and symbolic, filled with meaning in both the textile and craft sectors. This study looked at the frequency and figurative characteristics of the types of plant patterns in textiles, ceramics, woodworking, and metal craftsmanship of the Joseon dynasty. In addition, pattern designs were developed by extracting unit patterns to maintain the original shape, and by adding, magnifying, reducing, and superimposing flat steps and employing the four-fold sequence. The data collected was 826 examples in textiles and crafts, and 34 species of plants were analyzed as follows. In general, the flower patterns preferred soft flowers, flowers, apricot, and peony patterns, and fruit patterns emerged as decorative designs for pottery and woodwork from the 17th century, featuring pomegranates, grapes, fluorines, peaches, and walnut floss. Textiles and woodwork were arranged with many circular designs, while pottery and metal crafts were filled in many ways. Expressive types appeared to be the same as stylistic types for textiles and ceramics, and the construction types were the same in pottery and metal crafts. As such, it was found that even in the different areas of the sculpture, the same aesthetic values were reflected in the common figurative features today. Therefore, in this study, we developed a unique and competitive pattern design that accommodates the modern times and the Joseon dynasty. This development is expected to contribute not only to the development of cultural and tourism products in the future, but also to the tourism industry induced by the Korean wave.

• 과학기술학연구
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• 제4권2호
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• pp.67-101
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• 2004

인용에 대한 연구는 지식의 생산과 재생산 및 평가와 관련되어 있다는 점에서 중요한 의미가 있는 전통적인 과학사회학 테마임에도 불구하고, 경성과학과 연성과학의 인용패턴 차이에 대해서는 이론적 차원에서 논쟁되어 왔을 뿐 경험적 연구는 미답(未踏) 영역으로 남아있다. 경성과학과 연성과학의 중요한 인용패턴 차이로 제도주의와 구성주의는 각각 '내용에 따른(what one says)' 인용과 '저자의 속성에 따른(who one is)' 인용이라는 상반되는 이론적 해석을 내놓은 바 있는데, 이 논문은 이 '이론적 논쟁을 경성과학으로서의 물리학과 연성과학으로서의 사회학을 연구대상으로 삼아 '경험적' 수준에서 규명하려는 과학사회학적 연구이다. 분석 결과 물리학도 사회학과 마찬가지로 전임 여부에 따른 인용패턴이 나타났지만 박사학위 취득지역에 따른 인용패턴은 사회학에서만 나타남이 발견되었다. 전임 여부에 따른 인용패턴의 수준에서는 구성주의의 설명이, 박사학위 취득지역에 따른 인용패턴의 수준에서는 제도주의의 설명이 보다 현실 정합하게 나타나는 것이다. 이는 경성과학과 연성과학의 인용패턴이 전임 여부와 박사학위 취득지역의 차원에서 각각 상이하게 나타나는 복합성을 가짐을 의미하며, 이를 설명하는 이론틀 역시 제도주의와 구성주의의 배타적 적용이 아닌 상호보완적 적용의 필요성을 시사하고 있다. 결국 물리학도 사회학과 마찬가지로 '사회 속의 과학'으로서 사회적 맥락으로부터 자유롭지 못한 지식생산을 하고 있으며, 동시에 지식사회학적 맥락의 지역을 초월한 보편적 특성도 가지고 있음을 이 연구는 인용패턴의 비교분석을 통해 밝혀내고 있다. 미로의 비너스 조각은 대리석과 비너스 형태의 결합이다. 때문에 관객은 그 주변을 돌면서 우리 신체의 내적 공간과 시각에 의존하면서 그 작품의 중량감, 양감, 형태 등의 특질과 만나게 된다. 그러나 현대 추상조각과 개념조각은 이보다 좀 더 확장된 공간을 제시한다. 이것은 현대조각이 건축개념을 수용한 때문이며, 그것이 때로는 안 쪽에서 때로는 바깥 쪽에서 그 형태를 결정하며, 보고 듣고 느끼고 만져지고 왕래하는 등의 인식 영역인 관객의 오감체계에 직접적으로 관계하기 때문이다. 우리는 건축 공간에서, 시각 외에도 청각이나 촉각을 통해 지각한다. 대강 요약하자면 공간은 객관적 상태이기보다는 인식영역의 주관성을 통해 받아들여진 우리가 지나쳐온 것들이나 체험된 공간이다. 여기서 '받아들여지는' 일은 과거 경험들의 주체들, 언어와 문화에 의해서 이루어져야 한다. 건물, 즉 둘러싸고 있는 공간은 중앙이 아니다. 중앙은 바로 나, 둘러싸여진 나이다 나는 나의 동작에 따라 그 공간의 시스템을 변화시킬 수 있는 유동적인 중심이다 (이때의 나는 위치의 축을 변화시키는 것이 아니라, 그들을 탐색하는 것이다). 작품이 대형화되면서 이러한 건축공간개념이 현대 조각가들의 작품개념에 이용되었다고 본다. 현대미술에서 In situ작업과 특정한 장소를 위한 기획되어진 최근의 프로젝트 작업들은 대형화되어있으며, 건축에서처럼 특정한 장소를 만들어낸다. 로잘린드 크라우스(Rosalind Krauss)는 또한 '조각영역의 확장 (La sculpture dans le champ elargi)'에서 현대조각이 건축과 환경의 영역을 침범하고 있음을 지적한다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권8호
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• pp.1364-1377
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• 2010

Although the human body is a biological subject with definite and distinctive physical features, its actualization and perception differs among societies. The aesthetics of the human body are based on diverse cultural perceptions that must be considered prior to design development. This study establishes the foundations of newly adopted concepts of beauty that are presumed to have been established in the first half of the twentieth century that continue to affect our mindset even now. The research includes human figures in the articles of women's magazines and cosmetic advertisements in the early $20^{th}$ century. The results are as follows: First, the change of perception in the human body: Instead of being a subject of preservation, the body has become a subject of sculpture with emphasis on health in the 1920's and on beauty in the 1930's. The recognition of the importance of the body has created intensive attention on physical training and an increased sense of hygiene. The body exposed to the public perceives itself through the eyes of others that alter one's own perception of oneself as well as become a target of evaluation. There is an additional emphasis on the exotic eroticism of a passive subordinate. Western culture became the standard for modernization along with the dissociation of traditional standards and values. Through the effect of education and western thinking, the awareness of women's rights and self-appreciation was developed. Second, ideal beauty can be summarized as follows: Unprocessed natural beauty was extolled as ideal in the 1920's, but the 1930's, it highlighted big eyes and an aquiline nose that are the characteristics of western women. Taking care of one's appearance was recognized as an important value for every social class. Cosmetics and skin care treatments promised soft and white skin. In contrast to western cosmetics, dark and shiny hair was highly favored. Exercising and traveling, differing seasonal and regional skin treatments were also widely accepted. In its initial stages, the research had originally assumed that the beginning of the twentieth century would be a time in which traditional concepts of beauty and new, westernized aesthetics coexisted. However, as the research progressed, it was clear that the idea of beauty had already adopted occidental ideals by that time. Thus, it seems necessary to continue the study on the shifting paradigms of beauty that must have occurred in the nineteenth and late twentieth century.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제32권4호
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• pp.535-548
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• 2016

괘불탱은 불교에서 특별한 야외 법회 때 사용하는 대형 족자형 불화이다. 보관 시 괘불궤라는 보관상자에 보관한다. 괘불탱의 바탕재나 안료 등에 대한 연구 사례는 많으나 괘불탱의 괘불축과 괘불궤에 대한 연구는 미비한 실정이었다. 본 연구에서는 조선시대에 제작된 괘불탱을 중심으로 수종분석을 실시하였다. 대상은 보은 법주사, 공주 마곡사, 예산 수덕사, 부안 개암사, 영천 수도사, 상주 북장사, 곡성 도림사, 양산 통도사, 예산 대련사 등 총 10건을 선정하였으며 시료 81점에 대해서 수종분석을 실시하였다. 분석 결과 괘불축 및 괘불궤에 사용된 수종은 소나무류 51점, 피나무속 8점, 노간주나무속 6점, 잣나무류 5점, 솔송나무속 4점, 미송속 3점, 망개나무속 2점, 문배나무속 1점, 대나무아과 1점으로 확인되었다. 솔송나무속과 미송속은 외래수종이며 보수 및 수리 과정에서 사용된 것으로 사료된다. 전체적으로 소나무류를 이용하여 괘불탱과 괘불궤를 제작하였고 잣나무류도 사용되었다. 불교문화에서 상징성을 갖는 피나무속도 괘불궤를 제작하는데 사용된 것으로 사료되며, 망개나무속과 노간주나무속과 같이 목조각에서는 잘 사용되지 않는 수종도 식별되었다. 본 연구 결과를 토대로 향후 괘불탱 및 괘불궤에 진정성 있는 보존 연구에 활용될 것이라 기대한다.