• 한국안전학회지
• /
• 제31권2호
• /
• pp.70-75
• /
• 2016

Recently, coastal erosion has been widely in progress and the erosion level becomes also serious in the world wide, espeically in East Sea in Korea. Since it would threaten the life, economics and security risk, it is necessary to much comprehend the reason why coastal erosion has occurred according to the geographical characteristics. Meanwhile, analysis about hydrodynamics of the solitary wave such as tunami in swash zone is needed for the best management practice of coastal erosion. Solitary wave is nonlinear wave and can be reproduced in the laboratoy scale by openning suddenly a sluice gate with water head difference, of which methodology was found in the literature, since it could be simply determined by a significant wave height. Thus, in this sutdy the generation of solitary wave was experimentalized using the sluice gate. Experimental conditions were classified by angles of a beach slope, a water level in a beach slope and a difference of water level between in a headtank and a channel bed. Two kinds of dimensionless analyses based from experimental results in this study were presented; the first analysis indicates nondimensionalization between the wave height and the water level in a beach slope in order to investigate characteristics of solitary wave approaching the beach. The second shows the other nondimensionalization between dynamic pressure and static pressure on a beach slope to investigate the relationship between wave breaking and wave pressure. Under the same conditions as laboratory experiments, the numerical results computed with a SWAN model embedded in FLOW 3D were compared in terms of wave height, and pressure on the beach slope, which shows good agreement with each other. Overall results from this study could provide fundamental hydraulic data for the reliabile verification of numerical simulation results about coastal erosion in swash zone caused by solitary waves.

• 대한원격탐사학회지
• /
• 제25권3호
• /
• pp.225-231
• /
• 2009

The characteristics of morphological shapes, wave heights, tidal ranges and sediment sizes are observed and compared between intertidal beach and mudflat. The Mohang sand beach, southwest coast of Korea, is located just next to the large mudflat and has tidal range over 5 meters. Wave measurements are conducted at each entrance of the beach and mudflat as well as at the outside waters representing the incident waves to these different coastal environments. The morphological characteristics are also examined including the sediment size and the slope of the bathymetry, For the observation of morphological shapes, camera monitoring technique is used to measure the spatial information of intertidal bathymetry. The water lines moving on the intertidal flat/beach durinq a flood indicate depth contours between low and high water lines. The water lines extracted from the consecutive images are rectified to get the ground coordinates of each depth contours and integrated to provide three dimensional information of intertidal topography. The wave data show that sand beach is in the condition of severer wave forcing but tidal range is almost identical in both environment. The slope of the mudflat is much milder than the sand beach with finer sediment.

• 한국전산유체공학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 한국전산유체공학회 2004년도 춘계 학술대회논문집
• /
• pp.119-125
• /
• 2004

Unsteady nonlinear wave motions on the free surface over a plane beach of constant slope are numerically simulated using a finite difference method in rectangular grid system. Two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations and the continuity equation are used for the computations. Irregular leg lengths and stars are employed near the boundaries of body and free surface to satisfy the boundary conditions. Also, the free surface which consists of markers or segments is determined every time step with the satisfaction of kinematic and dynamic free surface conditions. Moreover, marker-density method is also adopted to allow plunging jets impinging on the free surface. The second-order Stokes wave theory and solitary wave theory are employed for the generation of waves on the inflow boundary. For the simulation of wave breaking phenomena, the computations are carried out with the plane beach of constant slope in surf zone. The results are compared with each other. The marker-density method is better then the hybrid method. Also they are compared with other existing experimental results. The Agreement between the experimental data and the computation results is good.

• 해양환경안전학회지
• /
• 제6권2호
• /
• pp.47-56
• /
• 2000

This paper describes a simple prediction method of beach recession induced by storm surge. In order to evaluate the severest beach erosion, it is assumed that maximum beach recession occurs at the coming of storm surge overlapped with spring tide. Consequently, total surge lev디 becomes the sum of storm surge level and tidal range. Generally, storm surge level around Korea is small compared with tidal range. Therefore total surge can be expressed as the series of surges, which have same duration as tide. Through the case studies, the author Investigates correlation between tidal range, duration, wave condition, beach slope and beach recession.

• 산업기술연구
• /
• 제8권
• /
• pp.3-11
• /
• 1988

Shock pressure of wave breaking on vertical wall is studied experimentally with beaches, which have four different slopes (1/4.02, 1/7.05, 1/10, 1 /13.5). This results is summerized as follows: 1. Maximum impact presures are occured where the wave break directly on the wall rather than breaking in front of the wall. 2. Deep water steepness, and the beach slope are the two Quantities governing the magnitude and location of maximum dimensionless impact pressure from wave breaking directly on the wall, also, the greatest pressure is produced with a beach slope of 1/10. 3. This study is clearly shown that the location of maximum pressure can be presented above still water level under respectively experimental condition. The dimensionless elevation of maximum Pressure is greatest on a beach slope of 1/10.

• Journal of Ship and Ocean Technology
• /
• 제8권2호
• /
• pp.61-69
• /
• 2004

Unsteady nonlinear wave motions on the free surface over a plane beach of constant slope are numerically simulated using a finite difference method in rectangular grid system. Two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations and the continuity equation are used for the computations. Irregular leg lengths and stars are employed near the boundaries of body and free surface to satisfy the boundary conditions. Also, the free surface which consists of markers or segments is determined every time step with the satisfaction of kinematic and dynamic free surface conditions. Moreover, marker-density method is also adopted to allow plunging jets impinging on the free surface. The second-order Stokes wave theory is employed for the generation of waves on the inflow boundary. For the simulation of wave breaking phenomena, the computations are carried out with the plane beach of constant slope in surf zone. The results are compared with other existing experimental results. Agreement between the experimental data and the computation results is good.

• 한국해양공학회지
• /
• 제1권1호
• /
• pp.84-93
• /
• 1987

A beach nourishment method can be used as one of the beach erosion protection methods which may keep coastal environments whithout constructing coastal structures on the HAE UN DAE beach. The beach nourishmens is affected by a natural condition and artificial condition;a natural condition includes conditions of bottom slope, diameter of bottom materials and waves, and artificial conditions include deposit position, method, diameter and quantity of the nourishing sand. It has accomplished to obtain the deposit position and the best diameter of the nourishing sand from a two-dimensional hydraulic model test, which simulates the erosional HAE UN DAE beach. In this study, the protection of the beach erosion can be maximized when the nourishing sand of 3.3mm in diameter, which is about 5.5.times of the bottom materials in diameter, is deposited layerly in front of the breaker zone which has a water depth of 4.6m.

• 한국해양공학회지
• /
• 제2권1호
• /
• pp.163-169
• /
• 1988

A beach nourishment method can be used as one of the beach. The beach nourishment is affected br a natural condition and an artificial condition; a natural condtion include conditions of bottom slope, diameter of bottom materials and wave, and an artificial condition include deposit position, method, diameter and quantity of the nourishing sand. To obtain and the best diameter of the nourishing sand a two-dimensional hydraulic model test, which simulates the erosional beach, has been accmplished. In this study the protection of the beach erosion can be maximized when the nourishing sand of 0.84mm in diameter, which is about 2.5-3.5 times of the natural bottom materials in diameter.

• 한국해양환경ㆍ에너지학회지
• /
• 제4권3호
• /
• pp.53-64
• /
• 2001

해수욕장은 여름철에 사람들이 쉽게 접근할 수 있는 해양성 리조트의 하나이다. 제주도 3개 해수욕장에서 해안공학적 기법을 사용하여 자연환경 조건과 해수욕객의 앙케이트 조사를 수행하였다. 또한 입경, 파고, 수온, 투명도, 해저경사 등에 관한 만족도가 조사되었다. 이 연구로부터 얻어진 결과는 앞으로 새로운 인공 해수욕장을 만드는데 이용할 수 있을 것이다.

• 한국지형학회지
• /
• 제19권4호
• /
• pp.59-71
• /
• 2012

이 연구는 다중시기 원격탐사 영상과 GPS 측량자료 및 입도분석 자료를 이용하여 부산 송정해수욕장의 장기간 해안지형 변화와 원인을 규명하였다. 연구결과, 다중시기 원격탐사 영상 분석에서는 2000년대 초까지 해빈이 전체적으로 안정 상태였으나, 2000년 이후 해안을 따라 호안도로가 건설되면서 전반적으로 침식이 진행되었다. DEM 변화 분석에서는 해빈을 따라 호안도로가 건설된 이후 전체적으로 해빈의 고도가 낮아지고 범의 경사가 급해지는 것으로 보아 침식환경이 우세한 것으로 나타났다. 하지만 세부적으로는 북쪽 해빈지역에서 침식보다는 오히려 퇴적환경이 약간 우세하여 범의 경사가 다소 완만해진 것으로 나타났다. 현장시료의 입도분석에서는 해빈의 남동부 지역(E측선)이 가장 조립화 경향을 보였는데, 이러한 결과는 이 지역이 비교적 외해로부터 유입되는 강한 파랑에너지에 직접적으로 노출되었기 때문이다. 결과적으로 최근 연구지역 내 해빈 침식의 주요 원인은 해안을 따라 건설된 호안도로에 의해 사구로부터의 모래 공급원 차단과 남동쪽 해안에서의 파랑에너지 강화에 따른 세굴 현상 등에 기인한다. 따라서 향후 지형변화나 인위적인 변화가 없을 경우 지속적으로 침식이 될 가능성이 높아 이에 대한 대책수립이 필요하다.