• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.33-43
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• 2001

In this study, both kinds of materials, that is, leather and woolen fabrics, which have similar thickness, have been adopted. To determine proper length of ease, not only sleeve cap height but also sleeve width has been adjusted mainly based on 5cm length of the ease, which follows maximum sleeve cap height, and then different length of ease, for example, 4cm, 3cm, 2cm and 1cm of ease, have been made. As a result, eighteen kinds in total of sleeves have been made: In other words, each nine kinds of both leather and woolen fabrics have different ease lengths. In addition, each sleeve has been inspected visually and functionally. Following conclusion has been gotten based on outcome of the study: 1. Proper ease length for manufacture of leather garment is said to be 1∼2 cm. As a result, ease length with higher sleeve cap height shall be 1∼2cm, while the length with lower sleeve cap height shall be 1cm or less. 2. Wider sleeve width has better function. Considering relations with sleeve cap height, sleeve width shall exceed +4cm of bicep line. 3. to satisfy a variety of those conditions while manufacturing leather garment, sleeve cap height, which is used for the manufacture of full dress and street wear garment, To lessen the ease length, body A.H shall be relatively loose under the arms, or pad shall be supplemented on the shoulder, so that the difference had better be lessened to solve such problems.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.189-198
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• 2012

This study aim was to understand the effects of the change of the sleeve cap height on the sleeve cap line and the sleeve appearance by making nine different sleeve cap height patterns. When a subject sews the virtual and real garments with this, it provides data base through which she can make the suitable sleeve by conducting a comparative analysis of the appearance and cross-sectional diagram and grasping the relation between the sleeve cap line ease and the shape of the sleeve. As a result of the analysis of the image of 3D virtual garment, the shape of the armscye and the position of the bust line and sleeve baseline, the sleeve cap height and the sewing ease of the sleeve cap line affect on the shape of the sleeve and the armscye. Although the real garment is slightly different from the virtual garment they have shown similar tendency. Therefore, if the 3D virtual clothing system is used appropriately, it is possible to expect various study results in the apparel field without making real garments.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.183-196
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• 2015

This study aims to develop sleeve pattern of tailored jacket which shows seamlessly beauty of females in their twenties who have relatively smaller change of body compared people of other ages and has outstanding functional operation. So we selected a pattern of manufacturer who received highest score after evaluating wearing condition of three types of jacket in the industry, whose targets are career women in their twenties and then tested its appearance and functional operation of 6 experimental jackets with armhole depth of B/4 and B/4-1(cm) along with sleeve cap height of A.H/3, A.H/3+1, A.H/3+2. As a result, the pattern which has good result of external appearance evaluation were sleeve with armhole depth of B/4-1 and sleeve cap height of A.H/3+2 as well as sleeve with armhole depth of B/4-1 and sleeve cap height of A.H/3+1. The pattern of good result for movement adaptation were sleeve with armhole depth of B/4-1 and sleeve cap height of A.H/3 as well as sleeve with armhole depth of B/4 and sleeve cap height of A.H/3. So we could find that the larger is the armhole depth and height of sleeve, the better influence on adaptability of jacket it makes and that the smaller is the armhole depth and height of sleeve, the better influence on movement adaptability of jacket it makes. It has been proved that armhole depth of tailored jacket of females in their twenties doesn't affect significantly on its appearance when designing it but it makes good influence on movement adaptability when experimental clothing has armhole depth of B/4-1and that sleeve cap height of A.H/3 that is 1cm shorter than A.H/3+1 which is used in industry makes good influence on appearance and functional operation.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.1-11
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• 1986

The subject, in the blouses that sleeve caps and sleeve lengthes are different from, did sensory test by right arm movement and both arms movement. This sensory test which is used in fabric good, is Shef's. RESULTS : 1) The ease of bust size is very significant by cap height, at 5%, 1% level by sleeve length. 2) The front area of arm hole is affected by cap height, sleeve length movements more than the back and the under area of arm hole are 3) Sleeve width is affected by cap height, sleeve length both arms movement. That is, they should be designed according to the use because they affect the ease of blouse very much. Especially bust size should be considered with sleeve pattern because the ease bust becomes different with sleeve pattern.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.123-137
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to suggest sleeve cap height with a satisfying wearing sensation and appearance on jackets for women in their twenties so that high-consumer demand jackets can be produced. Five experimental jackets with sleeve cap heights of [(AH/3)-1cm], [(AH/3)-0.5cm], [AH/3], [(AH/3)+0.5cm] and [(AH/3)+0.8cm] were made for 30 subjects to try on after which the subjects were then surveyed for their assessment of appearance, wearing sensation and preference. On the basis of the results, the optimum height of the sleeve cap has been proposed along with the following contents and results of this research. 1. [AH/3] [(AH/3)+0.8cm] of sleeve cap height was assessed to beof desirable appearance. 2. [AH/3] of sleeve cap height garnered a high opinion in terms of intuitive wearing sensation, while [(AH/3)-1cm] [AH/3] were the heights with overall satisfaction of intuitive and movement wearing sensations. If discomfort in the upper sleeve at 'straight arm' posture can be tolerated, the sleeve cap height can be set to [(AH/3)-1cm]~[(AH/3)+0.5cm]. 3. [AH/3] and [(AH/3)+0.5cm] were found to have a high preference among wearers, which indicated that the women in their twenties prefer a slim type of sleeve, putting appearance above wearing sensation. Consequently, [AH/3] is desirable when appearance, wearing sensation and preference are considered, [(AH/3)+0.5cm] is fit for business uniform for static duties or formal dress focused on aesthetic impression and [(AH/3)-1cm]~[AH/3] are desirable for work clothes when considering active duties.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.8
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• pp.1181-1189
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• 2009

This research analyzes the relationship between the height of the sleeve cap and the mobility of arm movement. Ten Korean women participated as subjects. For test clothes, the AH/4+3, AH/4+1, and AH/4-1 height of the sleeve cap were varied. The sleeve circumference was adjusted according to the variation of the height of the sleeve cap. To analyze test clothing objectively, the range-of-motion of two selected movements (Arm Adduction/Abduction and Arm Flexion/Extension) was measured by Leighton flexometer and goniometer. Also, a wearer acceptability rating was examined for acceptance by the subject. Anova and Duncan's multiple range tests are used for statistical analysis. According to the results, the mobility of test clothing 2 and 3 improved 14.9% and 27.7% in Arm Adduction/Abduction, and 12.7% and 31.9% in Arm Flexion/Extension compared to the test clothing 1.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.170-185
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• 2013

The suitability of the pattern manufactured with the development figure was considered by reviewing the development conditions that can be directly connected to the basic pattern in the human body surface development figure with the cast bandage method. The method to prepare the sleeve basic pattern was based on the cylindrical surface development method, and the sleeve basic pattern covering the 45 and 90 degrees momentum of the arm-movement was made by using the cast-type body surface development figure prepared with the horizontal line of the sleeve hem placed horizontally in the plan and by combining the cast-type body surface development figure in the standing position with the figure in the moving position. The test clothing was prepared with the sleeve pattern adding the bodice pattern in the standing position and the momentum and was worn on the FRP replica. The relationship theory of the body surface development figure with the pattern was derived by reviewing the suitability from the wearing state. The sleeve-cap height of the sleeve basic pattern resulted in about 80% in the standing position when the needs for a physical activity are 45 degrees and the about 50% when the needs for a physical activity are 90 degrees. The additional size of the diagonal length of the sleeve-cap could be set as "0" if the sleeve-cap height is low by 50% and as 50% of the additional size in the standing position if the sleeve-cap height is 80%.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.12 no.2 s.27
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• pp.237-248
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• 1988

To access the appropriate height of sleeve cap which is required for the basic sleeve pattern according to arm movements, plaster gypsum experiment was performed. Arm movements were 5types ($0^{\circ},\;45^{\circ},\;90^{\circ},\;135^{\circ},\;180^{\circ}$) to the vertical directions in the front. The appropriateness of the pattern was analyzed by measuring clothing pressure. The results obtained were as follows: 1. Increasing the movement angle, sleeve width increased but height of sleeve cap and armhole girth decreased. 2. Increasing the movement angle, the acromion moved to the front part of bodice. 3. On the basis of the result of the height of sleeve cap, the $\frac{AH}{4} +2.5cm$ sleeve basic 4 pattern is suitable for the direction $M_1(0^{\circ}),\;M_2(45^{\circ})$, and the $\frac{AH}{5}$sleeve basic pattern is suitable for the direction $M_3(90^{\circ}),\;M_4(135^{\circ})$, and $M_5(180^{\circ})$. 4. As the movement angle and height of sleevecap increased, the part which receive high pressure increased and the difference between the hightest and the lowest clothing pressure increased. 5. By the variation of movement angle and height of sleevecap, clothing pressure of upperarm was affected more than that of shoulder blade. 6. The clothing pressure of upperarm and shoulder blades were more affected by the height of sleeve cap than the ease of breast area. 7. Considering the clothing pressure of various arm movement, the most appropriate height of sleeve cap for $M_1(0^{\circ}),\;M_2(45^{\circ})$ positions was to use the $\frac{AH}{4}$+2.5cm, and for $M_3(90^{\circ}),\;M_4(135^{\circ})$, and $M_5(180^{\circ})$, was $\frac{AH}{5}$.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.11
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• pp.1502-1513
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to find relations between construction factors and adaptability on the 5 available raglan sleeve patterns through the drafting method. Also it was to suggest a functional sleeve pattern according to appearance and adaptability test. Three women in her twenties who have standard figure was selected as subjects. Raglan sleeves of 5 experimental clothes were rated by the appearance test and adaptability test. The major conclusions of this study are as follows. 1. The construction factors of the raglan sleeve are sleeve slant, sleeve cap height, biceps line, breast width. Bicep lines increased and sleeve cap height decreased as the sleeve slant decreased. The higher adaptability scores of raglan sleeves were, the lower sleeve slants were. 2. According to the appearance evaluation, B type was recorded the highest score 3. According to the adaptability scores, A type was recorded the highest score. In the pulled length of the waist-line, A type was the lowest movements among the pattern type. In the pulled length of the sleeve-line, A type was the lowest movements among the pattern types. Therefore A type was evaluated by the bort functional sleeve pattern type. Through the experiments, it was known that appearance and adaptability of the raglan sleeve patterns were effected by construction factor.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.13 no.1 s.29
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• pp.49-58
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• 1989

A clothing-erogonomics study was performed to investigate the difference of the upper arm skin skin surface and the relationship among the three aspects of upper arm (height of sleeve rap, sleeve width and armhole girth) by changing arm movements. Plaster cast was used for this experimental research. Arm movements consist of 9 types; just carmly standing on ($0^{\circ}$), and each 4 types ($45^{\circ},\;90^{\circ},\;135^{\circ},\;180^{\circ}$) to the vertical direction in front and in side. The results were as follows; 1) As the arm-movement angle increased, the height of sleeve cap decreased and that ratio was largest in the portion A-B3. 2) The steeve width was enlarged with the increment of movement angle in all portions of upper arm except B1-B5. 3) As increasing the movement angle, the whole armhole girth decreased and the ratio o(front armhole girth (F-A) was larger than that of back. 4) In the vertical direction in front, the height o( the sleeve caps was larger, the sleeve widths were smaller than in the vertical direction in side in all movement types, but there was no significant difference in arm-hole girth between the two cases. 5) There were significantly negative relationships between measurements in height of sleeve cap and those in sleeve width, and also between those in height of sleeve cap and in arm-hole girth. And significantly positive relationships were found between neasurements in height of sleeve cap and those in arm-hole girth.