• 대한가정학회지
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.1-11
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• 1986

The subject, in the blouses that sleeve caps and sleeve lengthes are different from, did sensory test by right arm movement and both arms movement. This sensory test which is used in fabric good, is Shef's. RESULTS : 1) The ease of bust size is very significant by cap height, at 5%, 1% level by sleeve length. 2) The front area of arm hole is affected by cap height, sleeve length movements more than the back and the under area of arm hole are 3) Sleeve width is affected by cap height, sleeve length both arms movement. That is, they should be designed according to the use because they affect the ease of blouse very much. Especially bust size should be considered with sleeve pattern because the ease bust becomes different with sleeve pattern.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.155-165
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• 1989

The purpose of this study was to investigate on the sleeve form variation according to arm movements for elderly women. This study was experimented using the Plaster gypsum. The subjects who were elderly women were divided into three groups according to Rorher Index. Arm movements were five type ($0^{\circ},\;45^{\circ},\;90^{\circ},\;135^{\circ},\;180^{\circ}$) to each the vertical motion in front and in side. The statistical analyses used in this study were Mean, Standard Deviation, Spearman's correlation coefficients, paired T-test, Kruskal-wallis one-way ANOVA and Duncan's multiple range test. The results were as follows: 1) Increasing the movements, the width of the sleeve increased and the height of the sleeve cap decreased but girth of the sleeve cap was not consistant. 2) When varied the rates of the three aspects of the sleeve, the height of the sleeve cap showed the largest variation rate. 3) There was a negative correlation between the height and the width of the sleeve. On the other hand, there was a positive correlation between the sleeve width and the sleeve girth. 4) There were the vertical motion differences between in front and in side on the three aspects of sleeve. 5) The sleeve width and the sleeve girth were different according to somatotypes but the height of the sleeve cap was not different. 6) According to the variation rates of the body surfaces in length of standard lines, the form of sleeve was changed more in the front than in the back. Maximum variation rate showed in the areas of $D_1-D_3,\;E_1-E_3$ in the horizontal lines and $A-E_2$ in vertical lines. 7) According to the comparative drawing of the heights of sleeve cap and sleeve girth, the sleeve basic pattern $S_1(A.H/4)$ was more suitable for the direction $0^{\circ}\;and\;45^{\circ}$. And the basic pattern S_6(A.H/5)$ was more suitable for the direction $90^{\circ}$, the pattern $S_7(A.H/6)$ suitable for the direction $135^{\circ}$, and the pattern $S_8(A.H/8)$ was more suitable for the direction $180^{\circ}$.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.123-137
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to suggest sleeve cap height with a satisfying wearing sensation and appearance on jackets for women in their twenties so that high-consumer demand jackets can be produced. Five experimental jackets with sleeve cap heights of [(AH/3)-1cm], [(AH/3)-0.5cm], [AH/3], [(AH/3)+0.5cm] and [(AH/3)+0.8cm] were made for 30 subjects to try on after which the subjects were then surveyed for their assessment of appearance, wearing sensation and preference. On the basis of the results, the optimum height of the sleeve cap has been proposed along with the following contents and results of this research. 1. [AH/3] [(AH/3)+0.8cm] of sleeve cap height was assessed to beof desirable appearance. 2. [AH/3] of sleeve cap height garnered a high opinion in terms of intuitive wearing sensation, while [(AH/3)-1cm] [AH/3] were the heights with overall satisfaction of intuitive and movement wearing sensations. If discomfort in the upper sleeve at 'straight arm' posture can be tolerated, the sleeve cap height can be set to [(AH/3)-1cm]~[(AH/3)+0.5cm]. 3. [AH/3] and [(AH/3)+0.5cm] were found to have a high preference among wearers, which indicated that the women in their twenties prefer a slim type of sleeve, putting appearance above wearing sensation. Consequently, [AH/3] is desirable when appearance, wearing sensation and preference are considered, [(AH/3)+0.5cm] is fit for business uniform for static duties or formal dress focused on aesthetic impression and [(AH/3)-1cm]~[AH/3] are desirable for work clothes when considering active duties.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.59-71
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• 2011

As an exaggerated-shoulder becomes a growing trend women's clothing, the crescent shaped sleeve with parallel style lines in the arm hole is a highly used women's sleeve pattern. This study develops and provides an applicable method for making the crescent shaped power shoulder sleeve. An efficient basic method for making the 2 piece crescent shaped sleeve was developed and the sensory appearance test was carried out with experimental clothes. There are two principles for making the crescent shaped sleeve: having a style line in the sleeve and pasting part of the cut arm hole of the bodice to the sleeve. The latter would be more convenient for a 2 piece sleeve, mostly used for jackets. The crescent shaped sleeve used in power shoulder jackets should set the shoulder angle as you wish to extend and raise the shoulder point of the bodice and sleeve to the same height. For a stronger power shoulder image, a 3 piece sleeve has a better appearance. Also, the height of the shoulder has to be enhanced with a shoulder pad for a more stable sleeve.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권8호
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• pp.1181-1189
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• 2009

This research analyzes the relationship between the height of the sleeve cap and the mobility of arm movement. Ten Korean women participated as subjects. For test clothes, the AH/4+3, AH/4+1, and AH/4-1 height of the sleeve cap were varied. The sleeve circumference was adjusted according to the variation of the height of the sleeve cap. To analyze test clothing objectively, the range-of-motion of two selected movements (Arm Adduction/Abduction and Arm Flexion/Extension) was measured by Leighton flexometer and goniometer. Also, a wearer acceptability rating was examined for acceptance by the subject. Anova and Duncan's multiple range tests are used for statistical analysis. According to the results, the mobility of test clothing 2 and 3 improved 14.9% and 27.7% in Arm Adduction/Abduction, and 12.7% and 31.9% in Arm Flexion/Extension compared to the test clothing 1.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.17-25
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• 1986

The objectives of this study are to investigate the variation of the sleeve form by changing arm movements and to study the relationship among the three aspects of sleeve (sleeve height, width and armhole girth) by changing arm movements. Plasrun gyps were used for this experimental research. The subjects of this study were elementary schoolgirls (9$\~$12 years old). Arm mevements were 4 types($0^{\circ},\;45^{\circ},\;90^{\circ},\;135^{\circ}$) to the vertical directions. The statistical methods used to analyze the data included mean, standard deviation, the Pearson's correlation coefficients and coefficients of determination. The results obtained from this study were as follows; 1. According to the arm movements, the sleeve form changed more in the front than in the back. 2. As the arm movements were increased vertically, the heights of sleeves and the girths of the armholes were decreased, and the widths of sleeves were increased. 3. Variation rates by changing arm movements were different according to the variation of arm movement, and were the highest in sleeve height. 4. There was a negative correlation between sleeve height and width, and a positive correlation between sleeve height and armhole girth.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.992-1008
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• 2009

This study is to present a female high school summer blouse with high movement functionality and satisfying appearance. For the experimental research 6 subjects with closest average body shapes and their body surface was measured at beginning and after selecting a representative movement the tested uniform was worn and the appearance and movement functionality was evaluated. The results of this research are as follows. In the research with the aims to improve the sleeve designed the height in 3 types as A.H/4+3, A.H/4+2, A.H/4+1 and their evaluation showed that in the order of best appearance was A.H/4+2, A.H/4+1, A.H/4+3. In the order of best comfort was A.H/4+2, A.H/4+3, A.H/4+1 and the best order for movement functionality was A.H/4+1, A.H/4+2, A.H/4+3. Additional height types designed produced from elastic materials were A.H/4+3, A.H/4+2, A.H/4+1 and the resulting order of appearance was A.H/4+3, A.H/4+2, A.H/4+1, order of comfort was A.H/4+3, A.H/4+2, A.H/4+1 and the order of movement functionality was A.H/4+1, A.H/4+2, A.H/4+3. Integrating these results shows that in using the same concurrent materials, the experiment pattern of setting the sleeve height as A.H/4+2 was the best while in using elastic materials, the experiment pattern of setting the sleeve height as A.H/4+3 was the best.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.57-71
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• 2021

The purpose of the study is to derive an appropriate knitting method that can increase the appearance, wearability, and functionality through empirical research on the sleeve height knitting ratio of seamless knit wear. The study was conducted by producing seven types of experiment clothes according to knitting ratio to examine the characteristics according to the body armhole and sleeve height ratio. Specifically, after fit evaluatins, variance analysis (ANOVA) was performed to analyze the results of the evaluation, and the evaluated contents were converted into data. Among them, the items with significant results were intensively studied using the Duncan-test. The result showed that the height and the width of the sleeves vary depending on the knitting ratio. Test sweater A was the highest at 16cm, followed by test sweater B, test sweater C, test sweater D, test sweater E, test sweater F, and test sweater G at 4cm. The 1:1 ratio of test sweater A, was the highest, which is knitted in the same course as the body. The larger the difference in the ratio of body and sleeve, the lower the height of the sleeves. As a result of the appearance sensory evaluation, a significant difference was confirmed in the result values (p<0.001) from all items on the front, side, and rear. Specifically, the appearance of the test sweater B(2:4:2) on the front and test sweater C(2:4:3) on the side and rear side was the best. When the sleeves height is properly set, the ratio of the arm line to fit the design with a natural curve is analyzed as a very important factor. The results of this study are expected to be of practical use in product development and production that can increase the feeling when wearing and design satisfaction.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.275-284
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• 2014

This study aims to suggest the patternmaking method of men's slim-fit four-panel jacket sloper in their 30's. The researcher collected four kinds of existing slopers and carried out appearance and movement evaluations twice. Then the researcher's sloper was developed by modifying and supplementing the existing sloper with high scores in the evaluations. The results are as follows: First, when comparing the existing slopers, ease on the chest varied from 13 cm to 17.8 cm. Actual measurements or formula method were used for the armhole depth, waist line, and hip line. It was one-third of armhole length for the sleeve cap height in most existing slopers. Second, the researcher's sloper had excellent scores in the appearance and movement evaluations (front neck depth, ease on the chest, front dropped length, ease on the sleeve cap, and the position that separate the two piece sleeves on the back). Third, the suggested sloper, has 13~14 cm for ease in the chest circumference and 2.5 cm for front dropped length. It sets to chest/4+2 cm for armhole depth, height/4+1 cm for waist line placement, and height/8 for hip length. The sleeve cap height is one-third of armhole length. These results will be useful when the industrial technical designers develop various jacket patterns.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제13권7호
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• pp.131-140
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• 2013

여성복에 있어서 09/10년 시즌에 가장 주목할 만한 특징은 파워 숄더 룩이다. 파워 숄더 룩은 단순히 패션니스타들에서만이 아니라 당당히 스트리트 패션의 하나로 자리 잡았으며 파워 숄더 룩의 50%이상을 차지하는 재킷이 여성복의 핵심 아이템의 하나로 부활하면서 재킷의 어깨 각도는 0도에서 30도 이상까지 다양하게 나타난다. 다양한 어깨 각도 중 10도, 15도, 20도의 형태가 70%이상을 차지하고 있으며 패턴의 형태는 몸판의 어깨선을 자연스럽게 올리고 확장한 어깨변형 패턴, 어깨선과 함께 소매산 부분을 절개한 소매산 변형 패턴, 몸판과 소매가 연결된 패턴이 주를 이루고 있다. 파워 숄더 패턴 전개는 어깨 각도가 높아질수록 각이 시작되는 점이 목옆점에 가깝게 하고 어깨끝점이 확장되어야 소매의 외관형태가 편안하고 피트성이 좋아진다. 어깨 변형의 경우 앞뒤 진동선의 시작점인 어깨점과 소매산의 정점 부분의 선이 완만하게 이어지도록 S라인형태를 유지하는 것이 가장 중요하며 소매산의 ease분량이 일반 재킷 소매보다 많아야 파워 숄더 실루엣이 자연스럽게 연출된다. 소매변형 패턴은 중심쪽 소매의 소매산 높이는 기본소매 소매산높이의 1.5cm를 외곽 소매분량으로 처리한 것을 고려하여 소매산 높이를 설정하고 어깨 각이 커질수록 외곽소매의 소매산 폭을 크게 함으로서 소매의 어깨점이 목옆점 방향으로 휘지 않고 각이 선 파워 숄더가 완성된다. 소매변형과 소매와 몸판연결 패턴의 경우 어깨점과 상완이 연결되는 부분에 충분한 여유가 필요하며 어깨각도도 다른 형태에 비해 상대적으로 낮아 보인다. 이와 같이 파워 숄더 재킷 패턴은 패턴 제작시 디자인적인 요소를 충분히 감안한 패턴 설계와 함께 소매의 달림선 위치, 어깨너비, 어개 높이 확장량, 소매통의 여유량 등을 고려하여 제작하는 것이 바람직하다.