• The Korean Journal of Physiology and Pharmacology
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.113-120
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• 2019

Mannosylerythritol lipids (MELs) are glycolipids and have several pharmacological efficacies. MELs also show skin-moisturizing efficacy through a yet-unknown underlying mechanism. Aquaporin-3 (AQP3) is a membrane protein that contributes to the water homeostasis of the epidermis, and decreased AQP3 expression following ultraviolet (UV)-irradiation of the skin is associated with reduced skin moisture. No previous study has examined whether the skin-moisturizing effect of MELs might act through the modulation of AQP3 expression. Here, we report for the first time that MELs ameliorate the UVA-induced downregulation of AQP3 in cultured human epidermal keratinocytes (HaCaT keratinocytes). Our results revealed that UVA irradiation decreases AQP3 expression at the protein and messenger RNA (mRNA) levels, but that MEL treatment significantly ameliorated these effects. Our mitogen-activated protein kinase inhibitor analysis revealed that phosphorylation of c-Jun N-terminal kinase (JNK), but not extracellular signal-regulated kinase or p38, mediates UVA-induced AQP3 downregulation, and that MEL treatment significantly suppressed the UVA-induced phosphorylation of JNK. To explore a possible mechanism, we tested whether MELs could regulate the expression of peroxidase proliferator-activated receptor gamma ($PPAR-{\gamma}$), which acts as a potent transcription factor for AQP3 expression. Interestingly, UVA irradiation significantly inhibited the mRNA expression of $PPAR-{\gamma}$ in HaCaT keratinocytes, whereas a JNK inhibitor and MELs significantly rescued this effect. Taken together, these findings suggest that MELs ameliorate UVA-induced AQP3 downregulation in HaCaT keratinocytes by suppressing JNK activation to block the decrease of $PPAR-{\gamma}$. Collectively, our findings suggest that MELs can be used as a potential ingredient that modulates AQP3 expression to improve skin moisturization following UVA irradiation-induced damage.

• The Korea Journal of Herbology
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.133-139
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• 2009

Objectives : This study was designed to investigate the effects of alcoholic fermentation extract from ovary and rind of pear on human skin. Methods : We investigated the effects of samples on human skin in terms of clinical trial. 32 of healthy volunteers, who lived in mokpo participated in clinical trial. Effects of sample on hygroscopicity and water-holding capacity were investigated. Sebum, moisture, scabrousness and desquamation were also investigated. Facial massages were conducted 8 times in each volunteers. Results : Single treatment group showed elevated levels of hygroscopicity (Normal : 106.4$\pm$2.1%, vs Pear : 114.1$\pm$6.2) and water-holding capacity (Normal : 87.1$\pm$4.4%, vs Pear : 96.2$\pm$1.3) on forearm of 16 volunteers respectively. In addition, massage group using sample showed elevated moisture (Control : 3.8$\pm$5.8%, vs Sample : 15.2$\pm$4.7%) and lowered scabrousness levels (Control : -12.3$\pm$4.4%, vs Sample : -22.0$\pm$5.2%) significantly. However, the levels of sebum did not affected by sample. Conclusions : These result suggest that alcoholic fermentation extract from ovary and rind of pear has moisturizing effect on human skin.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.50 no.3
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• pp.261-270
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• 2024

In this study, the effects of relieving itching and improving the barrier due to moisturizing human skin were evaluated for the cream containing Siraitia grosvenorii extract, which is effective in suppressing histamine and improving skin inflammation in the study subjects with itching. 43 female volunteers aged 21 ~ 59 years old (experimental group: 21 and control group 22) suitable for the purpose of the study were used for 4 weeks on the anterior gourd. The evaluation measured the amount of skin moisture and transepidermal moisture loss (TEWL) in the left or right anterior gourd before and after use of the product, and the visual analogue scale (VAS) evaluation due to skin drying, the efficacy and usability questionnaire evaluation of the product, and skin safety evaluation were conducted. As a result of the analysis, compared to before product use, both the experimental group and the control group showed significant improvement effects according to product use 4 weeks after use on the evaluation items of skin moisture and transepidermal moisture loss and the VAS due to skin dryness. In particular, the experimental group showed a significant improvement effect compared to the control group. As a result of the survey on the efficacy and usability of the product, the subjects of the study in the test group showed higher satisfaction than the control group in the case of the items "relieving itching (suitable)", "moisturizing" and "smoothing" after four weeks of use. In terms of usability, the subjects of the study in the experimental group showed higher satisfaction than the control group in the case of the "scent" and "feeling" items. Based on the above results, it is believed that "cream containing S. grosvenorii extract" has an itch relief (barrier improvement) effect due to skin moisturizing and can be used as a functional product for itching and barrier function improvement.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.279-294
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• 2004

This study described about a liquid crystalline technology that is used in cosmetics industry. Various intermediate phases may exist between solid and liquid. At high surfactant concentration, several liquid crystalline phases can be made to have formed. Although molecular arrangement with crystallization is not regular, it is known that more relative regular state is liquid crystalline or meso-phase than liquid phase. Usually, it described in detail about manufacturing method that explained about a kind of liquid crystalline technology in cosmetics, a new liquid crystalline technology, and makes liquid crystalline. Specialty, it introduced about kind of special an emulsifier to form liquid crystalline. There were hydrogenated lecithin, ceramide, dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, DEA-cetyl phosphate, Gemini-surfactant in representative raw material to form liquid crystalline. Liquid crystalline extent that used polarization microscope to observe formation, and appears best from 400times, 600times, 1,000times well appeared. Also, droplet particle size that liquid crystal is made best 1.0-10.0$\mu\textrm{m}$ be. General emulsion more than superior result that measures the skin moisturizing effect to take advantage of liquid crystalline technology of vitamin was seen. As presence at a clinical result, wave and general emulsion more than superior result (more than 20%) that measures skin moisturizing effect about liquid crystalline of vitamin B$\_$5/ were seen (ANOMA t-test, p<0.05)

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.4
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• pp.355-364
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• 2023

Lips have a unique desquamation process and moisturizing properties that are structurally different from ordinary skin. In particular, the turnover cycle of the stratum corneum is fast and the outermost stratum corneum is thin, so the amount of keratin is relatively high, and there are no skin appendages, so it is very vulnerable to maintaining moisture. In this study, we set three targets for lip care : stratum corneum, moisture, and barrier, and aimed to identify the potential of three target-specific ingredients for lips improvement. We confirmed the exfoliating, moisturizing, and barrier improvement efficacy of three target-specific ingredients which also have mild exfoliating effect. Specifically, we verified that Bacillus clausii extract improved skin exfoliation, gluconolactone improved skin moisture retention, and serine reinforced skin barrier function. To test the in vivo efficacy of the complex composed of three target-specific ingredients on the human lips, the lip balm manufactured with non-irritating range of concentration was applied, and we confirmed that it was effective in improving lip exfoliation·moisturizing·elasticity·wrinkles. Consequently, it was confirmed that the beauty and health indicators of the lips could be improved through the exfoliation-moisturization-barrier care of the lips and these ingredients were applied to LG H&H LIPCERIN products.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.48 no.1
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• pp.71-76
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• 2022

In this study, we investigated the antioxidant activity, wound healing, moisturizing and anti-pollution effects of fermented Citrus junos (FCJ) with Lactobacillus rhamnosus as a cosmetic material. For the anti-oxidative activities, the FCJ showed potent DPPH radical scavenging activities. In addition, FCJ increased cell migration compared to the untreated group in scratch-induced wound healing assay. It was confirmed that the amount of filagrin (FLG), a moisturizing factor, increased in FCJ. FCJ prevented the decrease in cell viability, stimulated by PM₁₀ at in vitro. Based on these results, it is believed that various effects of FCJ can provide a scientific basis for the development of cosmetic raw materials.

• Proceedings of the Plant Resources Society of Korea Conference
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• 2021.04a
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• pp.49-49
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• 2021

The roots of reed (Phragmites australis) were used in traditional medicine to treat respiratory problems, including symptoms such as high fever and cough. In this study, we identified the active ingredient from 70% EtOH reed root extract, and evaluated the whitening, wrinkle improvement and moisturizing effects. The content of p-coumaric acid, the active ingredient of the roots of P. australis, was slightly lower in 70% EtOH extract than in 100% EtOH extract. However, 70% EtOH reed root extract showed similar or higher effect in reducing power, DPPH, hydrogen peroxide scavenging, and nitric oxide scavenging activity compared to 100% EtOH extract. Moreover, 70% EtOH reed root extract markedly inhibited melanogenesis in B16F10 cells treated with α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone. 70% EtOH reed root extract significantly inhibited the mRNA expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) and reduced elastase activity in HDF human dermal fibroblasts. In addition, 70% EtOH reed root extract ameliorated hyaluronic acid synthase-2 (HAS-2) expression induced by ultraviolet B (UVB) stimulation in HaCaT keratinocytes. The results of this study suggest that 70% EtOH reed root extract has potential as a functional cosmetic material related to whitening, wrinkle improvement, and moisturizing.

• Proceedings of the Plant Resources Society of Korea Conference
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• 2020.12a
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• pp.73-73
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• 2020

Toona sinensis (TS) leaf is known to antinociceptive, antioxidative stress and skin moisturizing effects. Acnes vulgaris is a chronic skin disease with various symptoms including itchiness, pain and interruption of normal skin function. Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes) is a major factor in the occurrence of inflammatory acnes. This study evaluated the antioxidant and anti-inflammation effects by TS extract from adventitious shoots. TS extract showed anti-inflammatory activities by suppression of pro-inflammation mediators (iNOS and COX-2) in LPS-stimulated RAW264.7 cells. TS extract also has anti-inflammatory activities by inhibiting the secretion of pro-inflammatory cytokines on P. acnes-stimulated HaCaT cells. These effects were regulated by MAPK signaling pathway. Therefore, we suggest that TS extract from adventitious shoots might have applications as a medicine for treating P. acnes-induced skin diseases.

• Journal of Physiology & Pathology in Korean Medicine
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.425-430
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• 2011

This study evaluated the effect of extraction conditions of yam (Dioscorea aimadoimo) on antioxidant, moisturizing, collagenase activity, proliferation, and migration. Yam has been recognized as a healthy food due to its various biological activities, such as anti-obesity, anti-constipation, anti-mutagenic activities, as well as its ability to decrease blood glucose and cholesterol levels. Electron donating ability of high temperature ethanol extract of Dioscorea aimadoimo (HDA) had shown 70.6% at 400 mg/ml, and low temperature ethanol extract of Dioscorea aimadoimo (LDA) had shown 40% at 400 mg/ml. SOD-like activities of LDA and HDA were 23% and 34% at 400 mg/ml respectively. LDA significantly reduced the activity of collagenase in a dose-dependent manner, which was higher than HDA. The water contents in LDA-treated skin and HDA-treated skin were increased by 45.63% and 38.65% than the placebo cream respectively. The cellular proliferation of human dermal fibroblast neonatal (HDFn) was evaluated by MTT and cell migration assay. Compared to control, the cell proliferation was elevated to 109.7% and 114% by the treatment of LDA and HDA respectively at the concentration of 200 mg/ml. In addition, LDA and HDA were induced cell migration in HDFn. Our study suggests that LDA and HDA should be a very useful cosmetic ingredient, as anti-aging and skin moisturizer.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.29 no.2 s.43
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• pp.181-191
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• 2003

This study described about method that form liquid crystal gel (LCG) by main ingredient with hydrogenated lechin (HL) in OW emulsion system. Result of stability test is as following with most suitable LCG's composition. Composition of LCG is as following. To form liquid crystal, an emulsifier used $4.0\;wt\%$ of cetostearyl alcohol (CA) by $4.0\;wt\%$ of HL as a booster, Moisturizers contained $2\;wt\%$ of glycerin and $3.0\;wt\%$ of 1.3-butylene glycol (1,3-BG). Suitable emollients used $3.0\;wt\%$ of cyclomethicone, $3.0\;wt\%$ of isononyl isononanoate (ININ), $3.0\;wt\%$ of cerpric/carprylic triglycerides (CCTG), $3.0\;wt\%$ of macademia nut oil (MNO) in liquid crystal gel formation. On optimum conditions of LCG formation, the pHs were formed all well under acidity or alkalinity conditions. Considering safety of skin, PH was the most suitable $\pm61.0$ ranges. The stable hardness of LCG formation appeared best in $32\;dyne/cm^2.$ Particle of LCG is forming size of $1{\~}20\;{\mu}m$ um range, and confirmed that the most excellent LCG is formed in $1{\~}6\;{\mu}m$ range. According to result that observe shape of LCG with optical or polarization microscope, LCG could was formed, and confirmed that is forming multi-layer lamellar type structure around the LCG. Moisturizing effect measured clinical test about 20 volunteers. As a result, moisturizing effect of LCG compares to placebo cream was increased $30.6\%$. This could predicted that polyol group is appeared the actual state because is adsorbed much to round liquid crystal droplets to multi-lamellar layer's hydrophilic group. It could predicted that polyol group is vast quantity present phase that appear mixed because is adsorbed to round liquid crystal to multi-lamellar layer's hydrophilic group. This LCG formation theory may contribute greatly in cosmetics and pharmacy industry development.